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ZeGas

Aston Martin Vantage V8 - '77 Rham/1

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I'm looking forward to it, I'll be doing a different car with the pinkysil I think as I need to repair the original for this one if this mould doesn't work out before trying again.

Strange thing though, the parts of the silicon that were up against the wet clay are not setting at all, all other parts have set fine.

I'm starting to think that the hardener was hydroscopic.

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Grant, I've had this.... a long, long time ago.... from memory, there was something in the item to be molded that resulted in a reaction between the media and the item... it never cured out and I was very careful not to attempt to make a molding with any of the product exposed... I think it was in the areas where I had applied putty - but can't remember which putty it was....it was definitely a modeling putty... which one way back then.... anyone's guess.

frats,

Rosco

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Do not use Crayola Clay, that is the problem, got some other clay from a discount store, both red and white.

Did a test with all three, the crayola reacts with the silicon (Pinkysil this time) the other two are fine.

I have fixed up the original and now we're are all go. will clay fill and first mould coming up.

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Thanks Grant, 

will keep this in mind..... I do believe there is one modeling putty which is not suitable for molding as well... can't tell you what it was - but I got a bad reaction and it destroyed the mold..... something in it caused the catalyst to part with the silicone.... Dow Corning Silicone Type E... the type J was for making casts using hot metal... 

 

frats,

Rosco

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Well I'm going to say not a total failure.

Mould is awesome, pays to test clay before use

IMG_20200525_175649_1.jpg

My very first cast, it is a bit thin in places but as a first attempt I am not complaining.

25gms not trimmed

20200525180516-f2863445-me.jpg

IMG_20200525_175743_4.jpg

 

18gms trimmed, hence why it is a bit thin in places.

IMG_20200525_181451_8.jpg

IMG_20200525_181500_5.jpg

 

Question though, can I add another layer of resin after the first has gone off?

Edited by ZeGas
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I usually backfill thin sections of resin bodies with 2 part epoxy if it’s on the inside. Nice and strong. 

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That's not too shabby at all for a start ….. imagine how you'll go with the training wheels removed ...

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Use “ clean clay” for packing the original and as Matt said Pinkysil is the go to product. 
No real advantage in using slow cure silicon for this application.

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Nice work Grant,

The more you practice the better you will get and pick up the little things along the way.

This is the clay I've used, get it from a local Pottery shop, about $7.50 a bag.

49939224463_8e11f08fea_c_d.jpg

 

I've actually used the same piece of clay to create 7 different body molds now, store it in an Ice cream container and add a little water every now and again.

Matt

 

 

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Thanks Matt & Phil,

I see what you mean Matt about it just going off, it caught me out on my second attempt.

I've tried twice more from the first one and both failed for different reasons, the second was way to thick and came in at 38 gms and the third, which was right on the money at 28gms totally failed as I lay it down too early and everything slopped down to the bonnet and roof.

You learn from your failures I guess and at least 500gms of resin goes a long way.

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If you are slush casting you have to keep the mould turning in your hands until you see colour ie white. Thicker areas will go off first. If the resin is going off too quickly (I am guessing here) then try casting first thing in the cool of the morning.

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Good to know the thicker bits go of quicker, I'm getting there though, got a goodish one last night which I am going to work with. Weird though mixed 40gms slopped a little bit out, mixed another 12gms and threw it in before it all went off, but the cast, untrimmed, only came out at 20gms. Think my mind must have been elsewhere. Certainly didn't spill over half of it out.

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