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ZeGas

Aston Martin Vantage V8 - '77 Rham/1

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Think I have only ever seen two James bond movies, although I have always like Astons.

 

With that in mind and that I really like Grp5 cars I thought I'd have a crack at my very first ever scratch build.

 

Now I'm not as talented as most of the builders around here but I do have a bit of a knack for design, so with CAD at hand and a 3D printer to create the initial body away I go.

 

The original body I bought off the net.

 

20200511165226-4c01b78b.jpg

 

The aim, to turn it into this ... A Robin Hamilton 1977 AMV V8, Originally a '76 Group 4 but modified for Le Mans in '77 it became a Group 5.

 

20200511163614-8a15eef7-me.jpg

 

So electronic munting begins.

 

20200511165827-96f05025.jpg

 

The bodywork.

 

20200511165829-ae107d8c.jpg

 

Together again.

 

20200511165832-a55c6306.jpg

 

Hot off the press.

 

20200511164600-78e9c0f1-me.jpg20200511170452-3101156e-me.jpg20200511163608-ef466fef-me.jpg

 

Now for the tidy up and smoothing off before making a mold

Edited by ZeGas
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Very nice. How you planning top do the chrome trim on it?

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Hi ZeGas. No chrome on race cars. It fall off and puncture or damage somebodies tyres. Regards Chas Le Breton (charlesx)

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Hahaha, should've visited spec savers, no Chrome on this baby.

 

I see door handles....

 

Amazing work you do with 3D printing, Grant.... I might knock on your door to do an FB or EK Holden sedan one day.... I would almost guarantee that no-one has ever done one of those.... not a favorite Holden in the grand scheme of things..... but, like the Studi - it has "fins"...

 

frats,

Rosco

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I have just found out I have an addiction to filling / sanding.

I just can't seem to stop, keep seeing flaws.

Oh well, carry on.

Pics to come

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Damned cameras, you hand feel, you eye look and it seems ok'ish, tiny little chip here and there.

 

Then you take photos and it all blows up in you face.

 

Anyway I think I'm done with the filling / sanding.

 

I've at least got it down to a fine art now, a dollop of Tamiya putty spread by finger then dip finger into Tamiya Lacquer Thinner and smooth off, then sand with 400 grit wet dry , fill again the sand with 1200 grit wet dry, take photos, swear and repeat until the OCD wears off.

 

20200514162358-9bb85162-me.jpg

20200514164358-772b5ce8-me.jpg

 

A bit of artistic license on the rear

 

20200514162319-60a1407a-me.jpg20200514164401-0b2eca6c-me.jpg

 

Mirrors are a bit chunky

 

20200514162239-0ef84b32-me.jpg20200514164404-8a15eef7-me.jpg

 

The front end looks a million times worse in the photo than it does by eye.

 

20200514162202-3aa982d3-me.jpg20200514164407-05b32708-me.jpg

 

Captain Birdseye

 

20200514163131-310213f7-me.jpg

 

Actually maybe one more round, front end looks a mess and I can see a few grooves around the place.

Edited by ZeGas

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I like where it's heading ….. good luck getting there.

 

I also like the look of this slightly tamer version

Capture7.png

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Hey Bram, that's Robin's latter version from '78.

I'm very much a boxy man.

 

Thanks Shanus, I'm getting a bit nervous about making the mould, mostly trying to get it done before the clay shrinks and thinking in inverse to make sure vents, windows and wheels arches are right.

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Take off the mirrors and those lights in the grill area before taking a mould...they can always be added later.

 

The better you make the master the better the mould and casts will be.....so dont rush he said....from one who rushes.

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Thanks sensei, I was going to make a mould for slush casting, let the resin drop into the deeper cavities and swish the rest, please, if there is a better way, I'm all ears as I'm flying blind, high on enthusiasm only.

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swear and repeat until the OCD wears off.

 

That OCD will never wear off, Grant..... and, yes - camera's never lie....

 

frats,

Rosco

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***** Wow, Big ups to Jacob & co for the forum upgrade it looks spectacular. *****

Further work on the front end has tidied the RHAM up to a point I am now comfortable with.

IMG_20200516_091759_8.jpg

Munter, I am thankful for the advice but I just cannot cut up the body for my first attempt, I just can't bring myself to do it, sorry.

First up I am going to try a slush casting mould, it will also no doubt be my first failure.

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On 5/14/2020 at 3:59 PM, ZeGas said:

Thanks sensei, I was going to make a mould for slush casting, let the resin drop into the deeper cavities and swish the rest, please, if there is a better way, I'm all ears as I'm flying blind, high on enthusiasm only.

I usually pour the amount of resin I'm going to use into the mould, swirl around a little but then use a bit of brass rod to poke into any holes, ie the mirrors, to remove the air bubbles.

Learnt this after the first molds were coming out with air bubble for mirrors.

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Thanks for that Matt, I'll keep that in mind when I get to that point.

I have a much bigger problem at the moment, poured the silicon into the mould and ...... !! OH CRAP !!

IMG_20200516_153305_6.jpg

I have padded out with balsa and drill bits so now it JUST covers the roof

IMG_20200516_155138_0.jpg

Obviously though it is not going to be strong enough.

My question is if I wait for the silicon to cure can I pump some GP silicon on top to give it a bit more strength, will the GP silicon bond with this silicon.

 

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Bugga...... I bet you started to twinge as the last of the silicone poured in.... always comes to mind - will I have enough, maybe just, I don't think so, maybe... then the last drop falls out of the container and you realise you didn't..... good move with the drills and balsa... 

Hindsight is a marvelous thing, Grant..... you've got a big pool there for one smaller car..... smaller pond might fix the issue next time.

Do you know how much you mixed up?... if so, measure how many leggo blocks were used and it will be a useful guide for the next one...

 

As for adding GP silicone.. I'm going to have to leave that for the experts... I've never done it. Most of my molds were simply flat panel on glass plate.... the highest I ever came up off the plate was about 15 mm.... nothing like a slot car body...

 

frats,

Rosco

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I've topped up molds with extra silicone using Pinkysil with no problems at all Grant.

I also have a mold which is thin on top like yours but still works well as long as the mold is sitting on a flat surface once set.

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Hey Matt,

Too scared to look.

I removed it from the Lego this morning, externally it is all good, set nice.

Also I poured the Vario with the clay still slightly wet as I did not want shrinkage to occur in the clay.

The offshoot of that is the silicon internally is still not gone off, bit sticky still, I'm going to leave it for a week before touching it.

The clay base is now exposed so will dry out slowly and shrink, that might also make the mould easier to remove (fingers crossed).

It looks like the GP silicon is not binding too well with the Vario, so will have to be careful that it doesn't rip the wafer thin roof off.

I have an option B, set that face to a bit of ply while slushing and then keep flat, like you suggested, to set. So long as the roof doesn't rip.

In hindsight I should have just left it thin.

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Lessons learned.

1. Don't make walls too thick.

2. Check dimensions of walls first.

3. Don't use "wet" air dry clay, the silicon does not cure where touching wet clay. Will use an oven dry / kiln dry clay next time.

4. GP silicon does not adhere to Vario, glad for that actually as it went all wonky, even though I heated it up, air gaps everywhere.

All in all I am pretty happy with first attempt, the roof is way thin and may be a problem, but there are no air bubbles where is set against the original.

20200519091251-a191fb64-me.jpg

20200519091216-6afddd08-me.jpg

The original printed car did break up on removal but they were bits I expected to break. The mirrors stayed on though, I was not expecting that.

20200519091134-4be8b299-me.jpg

 

:D !!!!! Happy Days !!!!! :D

I've ordered some Pinkysil to try for next mould.

 

 

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Hi Grant,

 I think if you use Pinkysil next time you’ll be much happier with how it performs. As I’ve said earlier it cures in an hour and you can therefore demold and pour your first cast soon after. I use an air dry clay myself and have had no problems with it not being dry (I put it back in its bag for use at a later date). I’ll find the bag and let you know the type of clay I’ve been using. Been trying to reply on my pc but it won’t let me reply to any posts today.

Matt

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