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Chrisguyw

Strombecker Mclaren M1B...Finished !!

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Strombecker made some of the nicest molds, and the McLaren M1B, was one of their nicest, and very much to scale,....it is a tiny little bugger !!

 

Anyway, it has been sitting in my workroom for eons, and with the forced hometime we are all enduring, I have decided to make it my next build.

 

Trying to make this..............this one is not mine, unfortunately mine is a little worse for wear..........

 

strombecker-mclaren-32-slot-car-2pc-1-1dcad697234cee26aaaff12a8d07ee57.jpg

 

Into something like this................so a few bits to be made/added.

 

mclaren300115mclaren-003.jpg

 

I started with the chassis, as I find these the easy part of the job..........a simple single rail chassis with .047 main rails, set for 2mm+ clearance with 19+ mm tyres.

 

This will be powered by a stock Scaley FF050 motor and will be legal for our early USRRC/CanAm class, although as short and narrow as it is, it will struggle.

 

DSCN4561.jpg

 

I have started the bodywork........removed all bits, opened the vents, (as they should be , they were closed in the original), and added a front diaplane, and a rear spoiler.

 

DSCN4562.jpg

 

Still a lot of clean up to do...........

 

DSCN4563.jpg

 

The car is tiny,....I think I mentioned that,.....luckily the shortest wheelbase setting on my jig was perfect !!

 

DSCN4564.jpg

 

 

Still miles to go, but, I will post updates......

 

Stay Safe

 

Chris Walker

Edited by Chrisguyw
update

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Looking forward to seeing your progress shots on this Chris!

 

Very neat looking car, especially like the very tidy chassis, not surprising, as all your builds are like that, but I do like the subject.

 

Terry

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Hi Chris, you simply can't appreciate how closely I'm watching this.... and I urge you to add as much detail in the explanation of the build as you can....

I'm a virtual newbie to brass and piano wire chassis building....

I have ordered the Scratchbuilder metric jig kit, along with extra pins and also the wire bender jig.

 

Vents - yes, and yes.... they should be open... I like to open/create them in my models.... I'm not a fan of "faux" vents.....

 

If your model comes out looking anything like the 1:1 prototype.. this will be another amazing model brought to life by your very disciplined and capable hands, Chris...

 

Watching with intent interest...

 

frats,

Rosco

Edited by rosco01

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That photo of the red #5 is wonderful.

I pretty much echo what both Terry and Rosco's have said

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I got the rolling chassis finished today, and considering it is very short/narrow, it ran very well, for what it is, it is likely one of my better performing recent builds.

 

On to the bodywork !!

 

Stay Safe

Chris Walker

 

DSCN4575.jpg

  • Upvote 2

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Very nice Chris. Crisp, clean, simply elegant! No doubt a lot more in it than meets the eye.

 

You often use square tube to house the front axle, is this to reduce friction and/or something other?

 

 

Cheers Stu

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You often use square tube to house the front axle, is this to reduce friction and/or something other?

Cheers Stu

 

I am a newbie to chassis building, but the first thing that came to mind was that it would make positioning the axle in position on the bracket easier and possible affords a bit more strength to the joint in running - should the inevitable occur....

I concur with the rolling resistance theory as well... that being the only contact made is at centre of the four walls... maybe a win-win outcome, Stu..

 

my thoughts...

 

frats,

Rosco

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You often use square tube to house the front axle, is this to reduce friction and/or something other?

Cheers Stu

 

I am a newbie to chassis building, but the first thing that came to mind was that it would make positioning the axle in position on the bracket easier and possible affords a bit more strength to the joint in running - should the inevitable occur....

I concur with the rolling resistance theory as well... that being the only contact made is at centre of the four walls... maybe a win-win outcome, Stu..

 

my thoughts...

 

frats,

Rosco

 

 

 

You are both correct :) ..............less friction, and, the flat wall of the square brass makes for a more solid solder join.

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Thanks Chris, can I ask what size brass box it is.... a K&S product?... and if it is - a stock number...

I seem to be asking for an awful lot of you of late....

 

frats,

Rosco

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Hi Ross, The square brass tubing is from K&S.....it is 5/32 od....., and I have no clue what the stock number is,.....it just comes out of my brass cupboard :mellow:

 

Stay Safe

Chris Walker

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Thanks again, Chris - will try to track some down... and will post up the K&S stock number if I find it.

 

I am still waiting for my building plate. It may not be shipped until tomorrow (Saturday, US time/date).. so, we may be a week or more away from it arriving here yet. I have also purchased some spare pins, wheel truer and Dave has thrown in a pair of extra wheel blocks... shipping was punishing - at $78.00 USD.

 

frats,

Rosco

Edited by rosco01

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K&S stock item number for 5/32" square brass tube is 8152

 

frats,

Rosco

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I got a tiny bit more done...........I am working on a few cars at the moment, so, progress is slow.

 

I installed the body posts............I used the stock front body post location, and only had to install a styrene post from the body post "collection". I did have to create a new position for the rear post, and again used a post from the "collection"

 

As luck would have it the stock side post locations aligned with the side pans on my chassis, so, by installing some telescoping tubing I can trim these to control body rock.

 

DSCN4581.jpg

 

I did finish the wheels and inserts, and trimmed the body posts to achieve the ride height...........by scouring google "images" it appears to be correct.

 

DSCN4580.jpg

 

Still lots to do, and, if anyone has a windshield in good shape, I would be happy to do a deal..........mine is less than perfect, and will need a ton of work.

 

Stay Safe

Chris Walker

Edited by Chrisguyw

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Look great, Chris..... love the height.

And - those wheels....... no-one can appreciate how good they are, until you try to make one.....

 

Just received word that my scratchbuilder board and parts are to be shipped today...

 

frats,

Rosco

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Not a ton of progress, as I have been working on a few 1/24 Vintage kit builds……..slowly but, surely !!

The body needed a fair bit of repair/filling/sanding, and the shut lines needed a ton of work, but the primer is now on, …..another quick sand, and she is ready for paint :yes:

PS I did get a really neat Bruce McLaren head (no helmet visor), from accurate miniatures, and if I can do it well, it will really make the car.

Stay Safe

Chris Walker

DSCN4604.jpg

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Looks great, Chris.... deepening those shut lines certainly adds detail to the finish.... 

In modeling railway, we use a product called a "wash"... you probably know of it, or indeed use it...... it goes on after the colour coats and accents lines like this.. it's great for things like vents and other fine detail which is too small to open out... 

 

Can you kindly tell me what the primer is?.. I don't know of one in lavender/pink... intriqued.

 

frats,

Rosco

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Hi Rosco, The primer is Tamiya "pink"............it is great for cars being sprayed red as a final colour, it lets you apply less paint to achieve the proper shade,.....I have been using it on red cars for a few years, since Tamiya launched it.

Ferrari and other high end manufacturers use pink primer for their red production cars, and, if it is good enough for Ferrari..:D

 

Cheers

Chris Walker

PS I use the new(ish) Tamiya ink for panel lines as well. give it a whirl, you will love it !!
 

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Thanks Chris.... yes, the thinner you can apply paint - the more detail remains.... I use grey usually, but might give the pink a go when next I spray a red model.... 

What sort of a ratio do you thin your primer to?.... I have a little system that works for me for consistency..... and, I expect you are using an airbrush - not an aerosol?

I use a great little single action Badger 200... had it for nearly 30 years - lost in modeling without it.

frats,

Rosco

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Hi Rosco, For my static kits, I use an airbrush,.........for all my slotcars I use aerosol,.....this is the Tamiya pink primer shot from the can.

 

Cheers

Chris Walker

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Thanks Chris,

I haven't had a great deal of success with aerosols... I find it goes on too thick for my liking... I occasionally use Tamiya grey primer, but it's usually "build" coats prior to blocking down... seems to fill voids nicely that are too fine for putty... 

I don't believe I've ever used an aerosol top coat in slot car use... 

In model railways, my favorite of all time was Floquil.. but it is no longer available.. the paint particles were incredibly fine - perfect for an airbrush.... could mist it on in almost invisible coats... 

Badger went to a water based paint and I never came to terms with it... 

I tend to spray Tamiya aerosols into a jar and leave it for about 30 minutes..... the paint then warms up and the propellant fully evaporates - it is then quite good for use with an airbrush.

frats,

Rosco

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Well, It has taken a while, but I am finally done. I did have to make a few bits, and the windshield, which was not in great shape, was a bugger to get in even decent shape.

I tried to get a less than high gloss/perfect finish as the cars from that era were far from perfect !!

 

This is what I was loosely trying to replicate...........

 

mclaren-m1b-77-jpeg-large.jpg

 

And this is where I ended up..........

 

DSCN4614.jpg

 

DSCN4612.jpg

 

DSCN4610.jpg

 

  • Upvote 1

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Really nice work, Chris.... you must be happy with that?

Can you tell me what the little box on the left side panel in front of the wheel arch was for?.. I have no idea.

There is an access panel on the right hand side at almost the same place, but it looks like it is bolted on. I don't know what engine this car had, but note the two exhausts.

 

The wheels are absolutely spot on - and I love what you have done with the driver. right down to shaded goggles

Great work,

 

frats,

Rosco

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Just did a bit of reseach - motor was originally a 4.5 litre Oldsmobile engine but was not competitive in the field with other cars powered by a Chev 6.0 litre engine. Bruce upgraded to a 5.4 litre Chev engine.. The cast iron Chev motor weighed 200 lbs more than the alloy Olds motor, but produced 100 hp more. The 5.4 Chev block was eventually was upgraded to 6.2 litres. It produced 550 hp. I can only imagine the exhilaration of such a powerful motor in such a small full bodied car.

Bruce came in 2nd in the 1966 Can-Am series behind John Surtees

You have done Bruce very proud with your model replication of his car.

The color scheme was changed to blue in a later series for these cars... hence why your body was blue.

 

frats,

Rosco

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