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ZeGas

Tips & Tricks - Ffu (Fixing F-Ups)

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3D printing can be a frustrating business at times, like 4 hours into a 5 hour print and the nozzle blocks or a bit breaks away from the print.

 

This is especially true of printing car bodies, thin vertical walls are prone to moving and falling over, supports help but there is a compromise, to much support and it can be hard to remove without damaging the print, too little can lead to failure.

 

But there are things you can do to even while it is printing so I thought this might be an opportune place for all 3D minds to come together for the 3D print Tips & Tricks that we can all try out.

 

I have a print going at the moment and a couple of hours in to what will be a 35 hour print I noticed a bit at the bottom of the rear arch had broken away, there is no base for the remaining wheel arch to grow on, so either I stop the print and try again hoping it will be OK the next time or improvise.

 

I added a bit of blu-tac to the affected area and leveled off to what was then the current print level, now the remainder of the wheel arch is printing, i'll fix up the small bit at the bottom once the print has completed.

 

20200501141940-1427943d-me.jpg

 

Hopefully that will be the only mishap.


Cheers Grant

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Great idea!

I often have trouble with the 1st layers adhering to the plate. It is with a heated bed. I can't tell the difference between if the offset (bed level) is too high or too low when the 1st layers come away with the print head movement.

I printed a brim or skirt to make sure things are going ok and use UHU glue stick on the build plate to help the print start off.

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Shaynus,

 

Strange you should be having problems with a heated bed, are you using PLA or ABS? ABS can be a pain to print PLA is much more forgiving and PLA does not require a heated bed just a patient setup.

 

If it is not adhering it is more than likely the gap is too big, if nothing is coming out or you get a tractor track (thin in the middle but fat on each side) this would mean the nozzle is too close to the bed.

 

The best way to get set a bed up I have found is to start a print then turn the printer off, this will initiate the first layer level which may be quite different to "Homeall" resetting the printer, then use a piece of A4 paper to level each corner.

 

The reason being is that there are so many settings in the slicing software that are ambiguous that you can miss some or some can affect others, like in Cura there is and initial layer thickness and bottom thickness. Not sure which takes precedence.

 

Anyhoo if you start the print then you know the initial level layer setting, so setting the bed level is much easier and the A4 paper I have found is a perfect thickness.

 

Another option, and I have now started adopting this, is to use a raft, I played around a while back looking for the perfect (near perfect settings) and came up with this (using Cura)

 

20200501172121-a6aef0eb.jpg

 

A raft is more forgiving for adhesion to the bed and with PLA you do not have to heat the bed.

 

Also I suggest using blue painters tape, you should not need glue or hairspray at all.

 

With a raft though if you have a large flat area of a print it will adhere a bit too well to it, but I have found that a bit of coaxing (finger out of the way) with a short blade stanley knife will separate it quite well, or light coaxing like peeling a stubborn plaster of a hairy part of your body also works.

 

There is a drawback to using a heated bed and that is shrinkage, the lower layers do not shrink due to heated bed but the upper do so the first few layers are wonky.

 

FYI, many website say you need to use hairspray or spray glue of UHU but it really is about patience, you definitely do not need them, when I first started out I tried all of those as I was lazy and just wanted the damned thing to work but now I know the limitations it is very rewarding to know that a good initial, patient, setup can produce many decent prints before it needs to be revisited.


Cheers Grant

20191120172309-193d8f3b.gif.......................................................20170306174707-b4015afe.gif

Home Track..........Corvette C1 Build..........McLaren M1A Build..........Maserati 300S Build..........Allard J2 Build..........50's Diner..........Iso Griffo A3C

 

3D Printed Adjustable Chassis..........3D Print Projects

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Thanks for the feed back Grant.

That is very interesting about the effect of a heated bed. If I am printing a fair sized, flat piece, like, say a wall tile for example, I would be better of not heating the bed as it may curl?

Looks like I need to improve my set up / bed level. I've only printed PLA.

I take it there shouldn't be much drag on the A4 paper when leveling?

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It shouldn't curl with a heated bed, it's just that the first few layers will be a bit bigger than the rest above it.

 

If you are printing a large flat area such as a tile I would suggest only using a brim not a raft, the brim will stop it from curling and is easy to remove.

 

With the drag on the A4 paper I make sure there is a bit of tension it should feel "rough" when you pull it, also make sure your screwdriver is not in the adjustment screw when dragging the paper the springs are sensitive. Even 1/8th of a turn will feel different.


Cheers Grant

20191120172309-193d8f3b.gif.......................................................20170306174707-b4015afe.gif

Home Track..........Corvette C1 Build..........McLaren M1A Build..........Maserati 300S Build..........Allard J2 Build..........50's Diner..........Iso Griffo A3C

 

3D Printed Adjustable Chassis..........3D Print Projects

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I got an Ender 3 Pro just after Christmas...it sat unbuilt until two weeks into furlough. Now I'm into my third week designing and printing and had to buy a new pc because the graphics card wasn't upgradeable for Fusion 360 that I decided to use...(when Cura updated that wouldn't open either and I got sick of fixing the workabout then tried Prusaslicer for a few days)

 

I've watched and listened carefully to a lot of Maker Muse videos on Youtube and learned a lot.

 

Now the heated bed has had quite a few heat cylcles it's not dead flat, there's a slight dip in the middle where the heat element is, I got round that by putting some paper under the magnetic mat. A glass sheet is in the post, that should stay flat.

 

The first thing I did to the machine was put 6 washers under the bed springs as the standard setup is too loose.

 

There's some useful settings hidden in Cura, ironing, wiping, combing and Z-hop.

 

I don't use any bed adhesion but a 0.2mm first layer helps get the all important first layer down and if I use supports I restrict them to 1%


If you have everything under control you're not trying hard enough

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Yes ali beds are prone to warping, another reason not to use heating for PLA.

 

Thanks Kevan for the tips on Cura settings, my version is so old it does not have them, better upgrade as they sound useful.


Cheers Grant

20191120172309-193d8f3b.gif.......................................................20170306174707-b4015afe.gif

Home Track..........Corvette C1 Build..........McLaren M1A Build..........Maserati 300S Build..........Allard J2 Build..........50's Diner..........Iso Griffo A3C

 

3D Printed Adjustable Chassis..........3D Print Projects

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But it is one of three on your wishlist.

 

Just wait till you see my next *** EDIT: Should say FIRST *** ambitious project.

 

I'm no Munter but I'm going to give it a damned good technology touch.

Edited by ZeGas
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Cheers Grant

20191120172309-193d8f3b.gif.......................................................20170306174707-b4015afe.gif

Home Track..........Corvette C1 Build..........McLaren M1A Build..........Maserati 300S Build..........Allard J2 Build..........50's Diner..........Iso Griffo A3C

 

3D Printed Adjustable Chassis..........3D Print Projects

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