Tamiya Ps Versus Ts Paints

[SlotsNZ]

Bought some of these on a bulk special a while back. - which I think are intended for use inside clear lexan bodies ?

I'd used at least one successfully on an RTR body; but have just used a couple of the metallic ones over regular Tamiya TS primer, and I can tell right away they are both very soft.

The gunmetal grey has been down a week, and would still peel away or chip easily.

 

So they will need a clear coat, but not sure which one to try first on some waste plastic of what I have.

which are

Tamiya TS13

Modelmaster 2936

 

So if anyone has used these, and has any suggestions, I'd be grateful - it's had a few more dustings since this.

 

[charlesx]

Hi SlotsNZ/Mark.

 

I have used these together on plastic RTR cars although PS is required for inside of clear bodies. TS just peels off. You have no doubt looked but there appears to be nothing on either type of cans about compatibility. Perhaps its the metallic element? If paint is still soft not sure I would want to put something else over. I would try putting in water heater cupboard for a couple of days. Silly questions but did you spray on too thick in one go or not shake well. Either way I would do some trials on a spare bit of plastic.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton

[SlotsNZ]

Hey Chas

 

you had all the same thoughts as me. I did actually dust the first colour - the gunmetal grey really nice and light - 7 coats. Unusual level of patience for me. It just never seemed very hard.

But what I did after posting here was, sprayed the underside of a clear plastic container - no undercoat, just whacked on 2 coats of PS purple.

Gave it 2 hours, then sprayed one end with Tamiya TS13 clear, the other end with the Modelmaster, and left a bit in the middle with no clear coat.

The Tamiya was dry and hard to the touch after 30 minutes, the over-spray of the Modelmaster on clear plastic remained slightly tacky for 1 - 2 hours but was visibly more gloss than the Tamiya.

I could deform the plastic , twisting etc, and nothing came loose.

Check this morning that both were hard and stable, and nothing had reacted, then dragged the end of a pair of scissors across all surfaces. The part with no clear coat ripped to shreds. the Tamiya took a bit more punishment, the Modelmaster took the most punishment before scratching.

 

So did some "sticker" work on the car, - it's pretty basic, and clear coated with the Modelmaster.

 

I was a bit impatient and could have achieved a better car finish overall - but judge for yourself, it works okay.

Hopefully it doesn't slow react later. But for the hack project I was doing, quite happy.

 

[Shaynus]

Moved my comment to the "build thread"

Edited May 1, 2020 by Shaynus

[charlesx]

Looks great Mark. Not sure I like metallic but that is just personal choice. Good investigation to get best result possible.

 

Have never used but Modelmaster appears to be a really good product.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton

[Chrisguyw]

Hi Mark, If you have a ton of Tamiya PS (Polycarbonate Spray), and a bunch of bodies (Styrene) that you are not all that fussed about, use it up, but, for looks, application, durability, and longevity, I would absolutely not use PS on Styrene, nor TS on Lexan/PETG.......lots or horror stories out there !!

 

Cheers

Chris Walker

[SlotsNZ]

Yeah, if this was a club racer, I wouldn't have used it, but as I have the cans in the colours for the fin idea, and they cost me abut 1/3rd usual, and bodies to burn, I thought "what the heck

 

And at the end of the day, I will still have a fully tuned Matra chassis sitting under it

Now, back to investigating the cheapest circuit to make the LEDs flash, and a light retention circuit....

Anyone have a miniaturized boom box system lying about so the Cruiser can get some snoop dog rappin' the track.....

[charlesx]

Thanks for tips Chris. I have not tended to worry and not had any problems. Will be more mindful in future. Usually paint driver details with art acrylic. Regards Chas Le Breton (charlesx)