Shaynus 13 Report post Posted May 4 So the result of all of this? A bloody big improvement, that's what! I really should try again with the previous (MJK) tyres to get an Idea of how much was down to the new rubber and how much to the tuning. I had loosened the pod screws slightly (no time yet to source bolts, lock nuts and rubber washers) and the car had noticeably better grip and drive out of the corners. There was something "not quite right" with the way it drove though. I tried tweaking the braids in case they were too flat, but the car wasn't "smooth". If it was an engined car it felt like it had a slight miss. Turns out, after I had finish the time trials, I picked it up and discovered the front tyres were just touching the guards and dragging a little. Doh! Rookie mistake, and I don't know how I missed it. Got too greedy stretching the front wheel out as far as they could go, I guess! Oh, and it was the fastest of the four cars there - one of which was a Mosler! And the other guys weren't mugs either, all were what I would consider to be in the club's 'A' grade. Result! Can't wait to have another go with the front end fixed! Thanks everyone! :-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
charlesx 52 Report post Posted May 4 Hi Shaynus. Sounds like you are getting it sorted. On piano wire there used to be a shop close to centre of Perth with a yellow front. It has now shifted to north of river up coast a bit then inland. Sorry cannot remember actual location. I am sure Syd or one of the other slotties will know. Shop had a great range of scratch building supplies as far as I recall. Regards Chas Le Breton Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevan 7 Report post Posted May 4 I don't like NSR's, the Mosler chassis is designed for plastic track and far too soft for club routed tracks. I usually brace these chassis with piano wire very similar to the allen keys above, the cars always run much smoother and with more consistency. Another tweak, if you run anglewinders there's room to put a length of brass tube between the rear axle bearings, make sure the recesses of the bearings are facing each other and cut the brass tube to be a snug fit in the recesses with as little side play as possible...then remove all three and solder it up with an axle and wheels holding it all square...oil the axle though (I use a bottle of silicon shock oil from my R/C days), it prevents solder creep. Quote If you have everything under control you're not trying hard enough Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chrisguyw 34 Report post Posted May 4 Another tweak, if you run anglewinders there's room to put a length of brass tube between the rear axle bearings, make sure the recesses of the bearings are facing each other and cut the brass tube to be a snug fit in the recesses with as little side play as possible...then remove all three and solder it up with an axle and wheels holding it all square...oil the axle though (I use a bottle of silicon shock oil from my R/C days), it prevents solder creep. You mean like this ??.....................Sloting plus axle tubes/bushings....been around for 10yr +....they come in three widths, don't leave home without em !! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ZackM 7 Report post Posted May 4 Another tweak, if you run anglewinders there's room to put a length of brass tube between the rear axle bearings, make sure the recesses of the bearings are facing each other and cut the brass tube to be a snug fit in the recesses with as little side play as possible...then remove all three and solder it up with an axle and wheels holding it all square...oil the axle though (I use a bottle of silicon shock oil from my R/C days), it prevents solder creep. You mean like this ??.....................Sloting plus axle tubes/bushings....been around for 10yr +....they come in three widths, don't leave home without em !! This is definitely the way to go. The only reason my car didn't have one is I couldn't get it in time to ship my car. I got a good stockpile of them now! That said, I didn't notice a big improvement with the wire modifications. Zack Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevan 7 Report post Posted May 4 You mean like this ??.....................Sloting plus axle tubes/bushings....been around for 10yr +....they come in three widths, don't leave home without em !! Yes Chris but you can make it yourself for a few pennies Quote If you have everything under control you're not trying hard enough Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shaynus 13 Report post Posted May 4 Thanks for not laughing too hard at my effort guys! ;-) "On piano wire there used to be a shop close to centre of Perth with a yellow front. It has now shifted to north of river up coast a bit then inland. Sorry cannot remember actual location. I am sure Syd or one of the other slotties will know. Shop had a great range of scratch building supplies as far as I recall." Thanks Chas. I'm pretty sure I know the place you mean, I think I have visited before when I was 1st starting off. It's just at the time on Saturday I could not justify packing the kids up on a 1/2 day round trip to go and have a sniff around. Perhaps one day when my wife isn't working I may go have a proper look around. Queue mental images of a kid in a candy store! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
r377 2 Report post Posted September 13 On the piano wire how do you guys get the wire dead straight ? i got some cheap rolled up but when i put it in a chassis it actually twisted the chassis. For the time being i am using toothpicks and glue Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
r377 2 Report post Posted September 13 Also with the strengthening of the chassis in the front i noticed you went downwards on the AMG and shaymas did also. I was thinking of bracing the front across ways between axle towers like a strut brace in real race cars. Any thoughts ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shaynus 13 Report post Posted September 13 To me it would make sense, but then, there is often a difference between 1:1 cars and 1:32 cars. More knowledgeable people around here may be able to offer an opinion. One thing to check would be any interference with the 'strut brace' and the body work ( bonnet vents, etc) 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevan 7 Report post Posted September 13 On 4/26/2020 at 2:43 AM, charlesx said: PS Shaynus and Kevan. I note some NSR cars are now coming out with motor screws so gluing in motor may not need doing. As Matt says use hot glue so they are not too hard to get out again. C Le B I bought an M2 tap for the old NSR cans, they're dead easy to open and I've even put the NSR endbell and armature in a SlotIt can...they go slightly better in the NSR can for some reason, air gap, magnetic force maybe. Quote If you have everything under control you're not trying hard enough Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevan 7 Report post Posted September 13 7 hours ago, r377 said: On the piano wire how do you guys get the wire dead straight ? i got some cheap rolled up but when i put it in a chassis it actually twisted the chassis. For the time being i am using toothpicks and glue Buy straight lengths Quote If you have everything under control you're not trying hard enough Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
