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Shaynus

Nsr Tuning Tips - Post Them Here! (Lets Beat Those Pesky Moslers!)

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So the result of all of this? A bloody big improvement, that's what! I really should try again with the previous (MJK) tyres to get an Idea of how much was down to the new rubber and how much to the tuning. I had loosened the pod screws slightly (no time yet to source bolts, lock nuts and rubber washers) and the car had noticeably better grip and drive out of the corners.

 

There was something "not quite right" with the way it drove though. I tried tweaking the braids in case they were too flat, but the car wasn't "smooth". If it was an engined car it felt like it had a slight miss. Turns out, after I had finish the time trials, I picked it up and discovered the front tyres were just touching the guards and dragging a little. Doh! Rookie mistake, and I don't know how I missed it. Got too greedy stretching the front wheel out as far as they could go, I guess!

 

Oh, and it was the fastest of the four cars there - one of which was a Mosler! And the other guys weren't mugs either, all were what I would consider to be in the club's 'A' grade.

 

Result! Can't wait to have another go with the front end fixed!

 

Thanks everyone! :-)

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Hi Shaynus. Sounds like you are getting it sorted.

 

On piano wire there used to be a shop close to centre of Perth with a yellow front. It has now shifted to north of river up coast a bit then inland. Sorry cannot remember actual location. I am sure Syd or one of the other slotties will know. Shop had a great range of scratch building supplies as far as I recall.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton

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I don't like NSR's, the Mosler chassis is designed for plastic track and far too soft for club routed tracks. I usually brace these chassis with piano wire very similar to the allen keys above, the cars always run much smoother and with more consistency.

 

Another tweak, if you run anglewinders there's room to put a length of brass tube between the rear axle bearings, make sure the recesses of the bearings are facing each other and cut the brass tube to be a snug fit in the recesses with as little side play as possible...then remove all three and solder it up with an axle and wheels holding it all square...oil the axle though (I use a bottle of silicon shock oil from my R/C days), it prevents solder creep.


Print It, Build It, Race It, Improve It, Repeat...B)

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Another tweak, if you run anglewinders there's room to put a length of brass tube between the rear axle bearings, make sure the recesses of the bearings are facing each other and cut the brass tube to be a snug fit in the recesses with as little side play as possible...then remove all three and solder it up with an axle and wheels holding it all square...oil the axle though (I use a bottle of silicon shock oil from my R/C days), it prevents solder creep.

 

You mean like this ??.....................Sloting plus axle tubes/bushings....been around for 10yr +....they come in three widths, don't leave home without em !! :D

 

DSCN4391.jpg

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Another tweak, if you run anglewinders there's room to put a length of brass tube between the rear axle bearings, make sure the recesses of the bearings are facing each other and cut the brass tube to be a snug fit in the recesses with as little side play as possible...then remove all three and solder it up with an axle and wheels holding it all square...oil the axle though (I use a bottle of silicon shock oil from my R/C days), it prevents solder creep.

 

You mean like this ??.....................Sloting plus axle tubes/bushings....been around for 10yr +....they come in three widths, don't leave home without em !! :D

 

DSCN4391.jpg

 

This is definitely the way to go. The only reason my car didn't have one is I couldn't get it in time to ship my car. I got a good stockpile of them now!

 

That said, I didn't notice a big improvement with the wire modifications.

 

Zack

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You mean like this ??.....................Sloting plus axle tubes/bushings....been around for 10yr +....they come in three widths, don't leave home without em !! :D

 

DSCN4391.jpg

 

Yes Chris but you can make it yourself for a few pennies :D


Print It, Build It, Race It, Improve It, Repeat...B)

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Thanks for not laughing too hard at my effort guys!

;-)

 

"On piano wire there used to be a shop close to centre of Perth with a yellow front. It has now shifted to north of river up coast a bit then inland. Sorry cannot remember actual location. I am sure Syd or one of the other slotties will know. Shop had a great range of scratch building supplies as far as I recall."

 

Thanks Chas. I'm pretty sure I know the place you mean, I think I have visited before when I was 1st starting off. It's just at the time on Saturday I could not justify packing the kids up on a 1/2 day round trip to go and have a sniff around. Perhaps one day when my wife isn't working I may go have a proper look around. Queue mental images of a kid in a candy store!

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On the piano wire how do you guys get the wire dead straight ?  i got some cheap rolled up but when i put it in a chassis it actually twisted the chassis.

 

For the time being i am using toothpicks and glue

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Also with the strengthening of the chassis in the front i noticed you went downwards on the AMG and shaymas did also.

I was thinking of bracing the front across ways between axle towers like a strut brace in real race cars.  Any thoughts ?

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To me it would make sense,  but then, there is often a difference between 1:1 cars and 1:32 cars. More knowledgeable people around here may be able to offer an opinion.  One thing to check would  be any interference with the 'strut brace' and the body work ( bonnet vents, etc)

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On 4/26/2020 at 2:43 AM, charlesx said:

PS Shaynus and Kevan. I note some NSR cars are now coming out with motor screws so gluing in motor may not need doing. As Matt says use hot glue so they are not too hard to get out again. C Le B

I bought an M2 tap for the old NSR cans, they're dead easy to open and I've even put the NSR endbell and armature in a SlotIt can...they go slightly better in the NSR can for some reason, air gap, magnetic force maybe.


Print It, Build It, Race It, Improve It, Repeat...B)

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7 hours ago, r377 said:

On the piano wire how do you guys get the wire dead straight ?  i got some cheap rolled up but when i put it in a chassis it actually twisted the chassis.

 

For the time being i am using toothpicks and glue

Buy straight lengths ;)


Print It, Build It, Race It, Improve It, Repeat...B)

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Hi Guys newbie here. Is most of the stiffening for wood tracks? I have a short wood track local as well as a 4 lane Carerra track running magless.

Same question for ballast. I have a Aston Martin Anglewinder and need to keep up with some other GT cars.

Details for tuning NSRs is quite limited.

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My NSR Aston Martin is set up quite basically but runs quite well at WASCRG on the wood track.

I say quite basically but this is pretty much what I have picked up off the forum over the years.

Check to see if chassis isn't warped.

Rear bearings glued in.

Screw the motor in place with the holes provided, don't think the standard cars come with the screws for this.

Motor is hot glued in place, across the front and back of the motor to the motor pod, be careful not to foul the rear axles.

Rear tyres glued and trued (must say since we went from the NSR tyres to the MJK I don't glue them anymore), just use tyres that are a tighter fit.

Use grub srews to adjust the height of the front axle, top and bottom.

True the front tyres down so they're about 1mm off the track., needed at WASCRG since the track braid is slightly lower than the track itself due to recoats over the years.

Coat the front tyres in Supa Glue, allow to dry then true and polish. Repeat if you really want to.

Use guide spacers if needed to keep the nose of the car off the track.

Oil the rear bearings, lightly grease the gears.

I've never really added any extra weight to my NSR GT cars apart from some Blu-tac to the chassis area just being the guide.

This set up has worked for me for years and keeps up with or beats the other NSR GT cars at WASCRG.

This is all for a wood track, with regards to racing on a Carrera plastic track I'd say you would definitely need to add more weight if running magless.

I'm by no means an expert when it comes to setting up these cars and there's many more here on the forum who have been racing for years longer.

Matt

 

 

 

 

 

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I've not raced my Mosler for two years, it's had a Scaleauto Honda NSX body on it for most of that time (requires chassis trimming) and it goes well...decided to put the Mosler body back on and try it last week - a really quick one can get round our wood track in 6.0 seconds, a really really quick one can manage a 5.9...I managed to get into the high 5.8's still with the original 25k Shark, I've got a 28k evo to pop in

...the NSX will have to find another chassis


Print It, Build It, Race It, Improve It, Repeat...B)

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