Jump to content

Lc Lj Torana Scratch Builds


rosco01

Recommended Posts

Thanks again, OS-62..... it's not my ability, it's the way I've spoiled myself in getting the wonderful tools I have... and a little bit of patience in learning how to use them... 

Ok folk, learned a bit more..... the self-shining floor polish recommended by Patto to use over his decals is "workable"... I couldn't help myself... 

I polished one side of the Shadow with a small wadding of cotton wool and some Tamiya fine polishing compound.... 

Even after quite a bit of rubbing, I was unable to break through the floor polish.... so - it's a lot tougher and resilient that one might have perceived.... surely, if people can walk on it for a couple of months - it can stand up to a bit of rough  house handling on a slot car.. right?

I decided I'd only do half of the model.. so that tomorrow, when come to spray lacquer clear over the entire model - I will be able to see if the lacquer attacks the floor polish AND also if there is going to be an issue with oil or silicone etc in the Tamiya compound..... 

Pix.... 

We can see in this pic that the coating of floor wax has fully flowed out over the bare plastic, but it has not done so on the very sad decals... this is the "compounded" side... 

003-floor-polish-decal-compounded-mail.j

 

In this pic, we can see that the floor polish has responded well to being compounded - and we can further see that it has not broken through - or there would be a "joint" mid way across the front of the model.

 

004-floor-polish-decal-compounded-lhs-ma

 

I believe, to get a gloss finish over the decals as well.... I should have waited an hour, and applied a second coat.. or maybe even a third.... 

But, we'll know tomorrow after spraying a clear coat whether that is going to remedy the "satin" finish over very poor decals... 

 

Until next....

 

frats,

Rosco

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok folk, 

Update on testing paint, decals and floor polish... 

I'll leave the locomotive body alone from here for now.. and just post on results from the Scalextric shadow. One exception, I didn't have one issue pop up with over-coating Tamiya acrylic with Tamiya clear coat with lacquer thinners... in fact, I'm impressed - it was able to be handled within two hours of "flooding" the acrylic with lacquer based clear.... 

 

Next up - overcoating Pascoe's self-shining floor polish with lacquer.... same deal - no reaction, and the clear coat went off just as fast as that applied to the loco body...  

At the same time, over-coating the compounded side of the floor polish had exactly the same response - nothing... 

So... win, win, win... I do know, I can't clear coat Patto's decals with lacquer ... or even Tamiya acrylic clear coat... but the self-shining floor polish won't affect them, and I now know the acyrlic or lacquer won't affect the floor polish... 

 

Just a couple of pix - first up, the left side of the Shadow - previously coated with floor polish then compounded with Tamiya fine compounding polish... we see here that the lacquer based clear coat over the top of the compounded floor polish suffered no reaction at all... not a good pic, but the gloss factor is even greater than the floor polish gloss..... 

1401-Shadow-mail.jpg

 

Second pic is a bit of a close up on the decals..... these were bare under the floor polish, then compounded - but not washed..... the lacquer clear was sprayed (flooded even) over them to see if there was going to be a reaction... there wasn't... 

 

Pic....

 

1402-Shadow-decal-mail.jpg

 

 

I am further happy to report, the lathe is back together and about to be checked for accuracy - so, hope to make a start on the LJ chassis wheels.... very soon... watch this space...

 

Next, and this is totally off topic, but I don't want to start a new thread which will be very short lived.... airbrushes...

Here is a pic of my five airbrushes.. the last one came in just a couple of days ago. 

They are all Badger brushes, the one at the bottom of the pic is my faithful little 200 syphon brush... I have used this brush for 39 years... it must have had ten gallons of paint go through it by now, and has been used from everything between very fine misting of weathering.. right up to a 2" fan with auto paint when i sprayed the plenum chamber intake grille of my 1:1 scale EK Holden... in all that time, I have only had to replace one needle and one tip.... it has been an amazing brush.

Few pix... 

At top, the Patriot 105

Second from top, Arrow - which is almost an exact duplication of the Patriot - but has a much smaller paint cup for getting into tight places.

Both these brushes have a 0.5 mm needle/tip set..

The middle brush is probably going to become my favorite.. it's the 360... just such a versatile brush. I can be used as a gravity fed or syphon bottle brush.. 

The barrel can be rotated through 360 degrees, so you can just about put either the paint cup or bottle where you want when forced to work in a confined space.

It has a 0.8 mm needle/tip set.. but I used this spraying the very thin floor polish yesterday - and it was capable of being able to spray a very fine line, for the larger needle/tip size..

Next down, is the Rolls-Royce of airbrushes... the Sotar (Stare Of The Art Results - acronym).

It has additional features which allow the very fine setting of the amount of needle retraction - and it is scaled to 0.01 mm increments... so that exacting settings can be returned to for various delicate jobs.... 
I have not used this brush yet... but am very keen to load it up with some thin paint and see just how fine it can spray at... it has a very fine 0.21 mm needle/tip... 

 

And at the bottom - we have my faithful little 200.. which will not be used much from now on... maybe for larger jobs ... but I doubt that it will get much of a go now that the newer brushes have arrived.

I am including a pic of the front of these brushes as well.. and a close-up of the Sotar brush... that needle is certainly very much exposed - it will demand great care in use.

I am amazed at the incredible machining of this set... the spacing around the needle in the tip is exact... amazing for such a small needle... 

 

Pix...

 

1201-airbrushes-mail.jpg

 

1202-tips-mail.jpg

 

1203-SOTAR-tip-mail.jpg

 

And to close off this post... I decanted the remainder out of some Tamiya TS-13 lacquer clear coat aerosol today... and it is now in a 30 ml bottle ready for use.... 

It stinks to high heaven.. but I am a firm believer that this lacquer paint will outlive any acrylic in the rigors of slot car use... as Phil has laid testament to... 

 

1301-TS-13-decanted-mail.jpg

 

Ok, folk - that will be it for a little while now - work will start on turning the LJ wheels very shortly - then I can settle in to building a chassis for it.... with the added side distraction of clear-coating and applying decals to it.... 

 

Until next..

 

frats,

Rosco

 

Edited by rosco01
append
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi folk,

more testing.. 

But first - lathe..... as far as I can tell, I am now ready to go with turning wheels for the LJ.

I set the lathe up today and took a test cut.... by golly, the old bearings and pre-load must have been way out... I'm a bit puzzled as to how I got the results I did... 

From the first cut - I knew..... this machine has never cut like it does now.... I can take such fine cuts that the material simply floats in the air...suspended, it's that fine.. and the finish of the cut is simply lovely.. still get the odd gouge here and there, my feed rate/speed/cut are nowhere near perfect.. but, I turned down some ali rod that was used on the last wheel I turned before the big replacement... then did a couple of passes with the HSS finishing tool I made..... pretty happy.. Pic....

 

1001-first-turn-new-bearings-mail.jpg

 

I'll now set about writing down the specs for the new wheels - to fit the MJK Cortina/Escort tyres... hopefully, this time next week - we'll have four wheels.... with tyres fitted... and maybe even inserts... 

 

So - further to the above re floor polish, decals and lacquer paint... I have absolutely no qualm about spraying Tamiya clear lacquer over floor polish... 

I sprayed floor polish over the decals of the second Shadow today... left it one hour, then sprayed some of the decanted TS-13 plus a little more lacquer thinners mixed in...

I used the Patriot this time to spray - and it is just as lovely as the others.... I'm not good yet at triggering the paint.. but have found I can simply hold down the trigger and keep the air continuous.. and am learning to pull back the trigger for paint flow.... fan width... and shutting it off again at the end of the stroke... all the time, keeping the trigger "down" ... never going to run out of air - with 14 cfm supply at hand.... 

Here is a pic of the Shadow - just after it was sprayed with lacquer clear coat.. the floor polish may have been "just" a little on the wet side... but I got impatient.. as I do, sometimes.... pic..

 

1502-lacquer-clear-over-floor-polish-mai

 

Lighting does not really do the finish justice.... you can see some parts of it where the reflection reveals just how good this paint is, using an airbrush... it "floods" on beautifully and flows out even better... I believe I'm now converted for using lacquer as a final top coat... 

 

So, Mr. Impatience... got the better of me.... raced inside and grabbed the LJ... didn't wash it, clean it... just dusted it off.. and sprayed two light coats of the lacquer clear directly over the compounded acrylic.... absolutely no issue either... well, not with the paint or reaction.. but, in my haste - just one "hair" found its way onto the roof.... and "bazingo!"... I now have a hair to compound out... 

Reality is, this was always going to be a test run... the coat is very thin.. just two passes.... 

PIc was taken less than 30 seconds after the second pass.. you can see it is still wet.... 

As it is now, it has pulled down beautifully... but, I'll compound it tomorrow and apply another coat of lacquer clear... then - we look to Patto's decals... maybe a compound before that... but it shouldn't need much of one.... 

I have every confidence now that Tamiya TS-13 can be applied over the Tamiya acrylic solids... 

Pic...

1501-lacquer-clear-over-acrylic-mail.jpg

 

You can clearly see "that" hair..... if I'd been my usual nervous "Myrtle".. I'd have washed, blown dried and air dusted this before spraying it... not to mention mounting it on a stand to spray...

I simply grabbed it, raced it out to the booth in the garage... and "shot" paint... 

 

Ok... wheels tomorrow - and I will compound this clear coat on the LJ.. and respray - with all the care and attention that should have been applied today... 

 

frats,

Rosco

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok folk.... wheels - but first... lathe, what a difference these angular contact bearings have made to my lathe.... it is far more accurate now than it has ever been.

I backed off the pre-load before starting on wheels today.. and re-set it... the bearings now have about 4 hours running on them, and I believe they are now bed in... 

So, armed with access to this wonderful machine, I set off to make some new wheels for the tyres I believe are a much closer scale size than any of the others I have tried.

For those who want specs.. these are what I have come up with, and it all works well together.

The tyres are MJK 4272.

The wheel specs are -

overall rim diameter - 14.2 mm (shown as reference "E")

rim diameter - 11.8 mm (C)

Overall rim width (minus hub) - 7.0 mm (D)

Step width - 3.0 mm (F)

Rim width each side of step - 2.0 mm 

Hub diameter - 5.0 mm

Hub width - 3.0 mm

Insert recess diameter - 10.75 mm

Insert recess depth - 3.25 mm

Ok.. some pix... 

 

1004-26-wheel-mail.jpg

 

It annoys me no end, to see wheels that have inserts (centres) that are not "centred".. but wobble.... I decided that with all the detail I am putting into this model, I'd try something new to centre the insert in the wheel.... 

In the pic below, you can see that I have marked out the very centre of the insert using dividers.. 

 

1001-dividers-insert-mail.jpg

 

I then used a pin vice and starting with a 0.5 mm drill bit... drilled through the absolute centre.

I worked the drill bit sizes up until I got to a #54 (1.4 mm) drill bit.. and then tapped the hole with a 10BA tap.....

 

1001-dividers-insert-mail.jpg

 

I was then able to fit the tap with insert fixed into the keyless chuck of my  little Dremel... I'd be lost without this amazing tool.

Spinning the machine over at the lowest speed, and using one of the rubbing blocks bound with 360 grit wet/dry.. I "turned" down the insert until I came up on the very edge of the bevel part of the insert..

 

1002-10-BA-tapped-mail.jpg

 

The "bevel" came up at exactly at 10.75 mm..... and the reason I set that measurement for the recess in the wheel.... 

 

1003-fitted-mail.jpg

 

1005-insert-mai.jpg

 

In the next pic, you can see that the bevel of the insert flows out nicely onto the inner rim... and I believe this will look great when I have painted the centre of the spokes in chrome.. with the surrounding part of the insert in black..... as was these amazing wheels chosen by the HDT for the LJ.... 

 

1006-insert-rim-mail.jpg

 

And......just as a bit of a tease... I simply had to do this... 

Not sure where the ride height will be until I design and build the chassis - but I suspect the rear wheels/tyres will fit in somewhere around this.... 

Excuse the yet to be compounded clear coat.... you can see that it was applied "copulously"... still pulling down, then we compound and start work with Patto's decals of PB's Bathurst winning LJ XU-1... I have high hopes for this model.


Few pix... just messing around..

 

1007-ride-height-mail.jpg

 

And, as a visual contrast - the difference between the wheels and tyres I have swapped to - with the previous pair on the right hand of the axle.... 

I do very much like the look of the smaller and narrower tyre.... it is yet to be trued down with the Tire Razor (sp) which will take a fair bit more out of the diameter and footprint width.

 

 

1008-rear-mail.jpg

 

Ok.. that's if for a bit now.... two more wheels and inserts to do, then we can start work on the chassis...

I have dreamed up a different approach to the front axle.... all will be revealed as the build continues...

 

Until next...

 

frats,

Rosco

Edited by rosco01
append
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Shaynus said:

So, when is full scale wheel for sale production for kicking in??;)

Hmmmm.... Shayne - if you saw the work that goes into producing the wheels... not to mention wheels #1 through #25.... some of the earlier ones taking more than one day to make each..... well..... I suppose I could make them... but, no-one could afford me.......... even at poverty hourly rates.... 

 

I have 24 wheels looking at me each time I go into my spare parts box.. that's enough for six models. Most of them are fairly good.. there are about 5 or 6 which I would never fit to a model.. but as a static display - they'd be fine... 

I made an awful lot of mistakes... as I do when I learn something new... but I believe I have wheels for models I have not even considered yet.... along with the purchased Slot-It ones that are now surplus to this build... and tyres... 

So, my question to you is...... when are you going into production?.... it's a part of this great hobby which really begs more people to have a go at than have yet to consider it.

Aside from the lathe.... there are only a few lathe tools necessary for turning up reasonable wheels like this.... two lathe cutting tools, one centering drill bit, two drill bits and one M2 tapping bit..... plus the aluminium rod.

 

However, I also appreciate that in my soon to be 11 years of retirement, I have become very selfish - and forget that people simply don't have days on end to while away on what becomes obsessive demand.... 

 

I am looking forward now to starting the chassis build... the motor/axle bracket made last year will make a re-appearance... and I will finally get to use the scratch builder's jig from the PSM.... 

 

The body and these wheels were always going to take me a long time to get up for the project - the next stages will go very fast in comparison... 

 

frats,

Rosco

Link to comment
Share on other sites

:) I was only stirring Rosco! Come to think of it, I think I made a similar quip earlier on in your build thread! :blink::D

I think 11 years would be the amount of time it would take me to start producing my own wheels, if I started on it today...

Maybe I need to make a round tuit..in the meantime I'll continue to live vicariously through your build thread and marvel at your results - keep up the great work!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Shaynus said:

I think 11 years would be the amount of time it would take me to start producing my own wheels, if I started on it today...

 

Can't tell you where it's gone, Shayne... but I seem to have accumulated a lot more models (in a number of varying hobbies) .... they just "seem" to be breeding without me really noticing... 

PM sent re wheels.

frats,

Rosco

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OS-62.... don't be too keen on the chassis part of the build... it will be pretty basic. This model was never intended to be up at the top of the leader board in performance.... but, it will go... and should run very sweetly.. 

Two more wheels, and we are finally onto the builder board.... 

I'll let the paint pull down a bit more during the week before blocking back again and compounding.... we can then get stuck into applying Patto's great decals... 

 

Pulled out the little Munter Cooper "half-built" last night... have to get that finished off for the upcoming Tasman Proxy series.... so, we know where we are going after this build.

Also, arriving today - a Mclaren Elva white kit.... and the Elvis Mclaren... more work!

 

frats,

Rosco

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, Shaynus said:

 

Maybe I need to make a round tuit..

If you find the plans for one of those, Shayne.... make sure you make a copy for me.... by golly, could I make use of some of them here at present....

 

frats,

Rosco

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry to disappoint those expecting the final two wheels.... no work done today, lot of catching up around the house and in the garage... plus - too darned hot to be turning a lathe.

And.... lots of mopping up in here... drool over the floor - after getting the latest of two additions to my slot garage... the little Elva is exquisite... see new thread with 9 pix.

Wheels tomorrow... pix tomorrow night.. trust me, I was with the government.... sort of.. 

frats,

Rosco

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Personally I only every use floor polish, I know others don't agree, but I have never had an issue with reacting with decals, or discolouration, or cracking.

Also you get a very smooth finish if you dip the body into a bath, just need to dab up the drips without touching the body itself, I angle the body so all drips congregate in one place.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

OS-62..... Patto tells me that floor polish should be fine.

I like to compound my finishes.. and I am yet to find out if the floor polish can be worked... just me, but I really like a mirror finish.. and just a touch of weather in the right places to bring the model to life... a tiny bit of brake pad dust, and some exhaust haze.... only enough to be just seen... many wouldn't see it, unless told... but, to me - it makes a huge difference in a realistic finish.... far too many "plastic" cars in the population that have just come out of the dealer's showroom.. weathering is an art in itself... I would not ever suggest I have mastered or am even good at it, but I like to add just a tiny bit ..... it is particularly important in model railways.. the difference between a toy and a model....

I will clear lacquer over the floor polish, OS-62.... and compound it. Tamiya make a good set of compounding products.. a coarse (red cap) fine (blue cap) and finish (white cap).. I have used them to good effect on bare plastic models with no coating at all.. they can also be coated over - there isn't any oil in them. A good wash in warm soapy water and a rinse then compressed air dry provides a good finish over which to clear coat and add a bit of protection.

frats,

Rosco

Edited by rosco01
append
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

36 minutes ago, ZeGas said:

Personally I only every use floor polish, I know others don't agree, but I have never had an issue with reacting with decals, or discolouration, or cracking.

Also you get a very smooth finish if you dip the body into a bath, just need to dab up the drips without touching the body itself, I angle the body so all drips congregate in one place.

@ZeGasThanks for this. Being new to building up slot cars I was getting pretty overwhelmed by it all. I looked at it and thought I have had some seriously glossy timber floors that handled a fair bit of punishment.

Edited by Oldskool62
Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, rosco01 said:

OS-62..... Patto tells me that floor polish should be fine.

I like to compound my finishes.. and I am yet to find out if the floor polish can be worked... just me, but I really like a mirror finish.. and just a touch of weather in the right places to bring the model to life... a tiny bit of brake pad dust, and some exhaust haze.... only enough to be just seen... many wouldn't see it, unless told... but, to me - it makes a huge difference in a realistic finish.... far too many "plastic" cars in the population that have just come out of the dealer's showroom.. weathering is an art in itself... I would not ever suggest I have mastered or am even good at it, but I like to add just a tiny bit ..... it is particularly important in model railways.. the difference between a toy and a model....

I will clear lacquer over the floor polish, OS-62.... and compound it. Tamiya make a good set of compounding products.. a coarse (red cap) fine (blue cap) and finish (white cap).. I have used them to good effect on bare plastic models with coating at all.. they can also be coated over - there isn't any oil in them. A good wash in warm soapy water and a rinse then air dry provides a good finish over which to clear coat and add a bit of protection.

frats,

Rosc

@rosco01 I have the Tamiya compounds at home which are fantastic products.

Your a wealth of information and inspiration Ross.

Edited by Oldskool62
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks OS-62...... not sure about "wealth"... but hope that I give some inspiration to those in this great hobby.

 

Just pulled down Cooper #2... starting to have a look at what stage I was at with the build 3 years back.... have an issue with PG tyres having gone soft and mushy... turned red, for some reason... kept out of the light under a drawer.. no idea what's going on there... anyone else suffered this?... they have not been touched by any chemicals other than the aluminium wheels....... absolutely no idea.

 

frats,

Rosco

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Bram,

sad thing is, I bought a lot of these.... at the same time. I seriously hope they do not all go off like seven of them have in storage.

Have you had any issues with any other "batches" of them? I don't know if there is something that I have done, or something poor with the production... I'm now guessing, with you having some as well..... it may not be anything I have done... 

I have now ordered some close-match MJK tyres as back up - not perfect for the wheels I have, but they seem not to have any issues....... at least, of the many packs I have bought from MJK - not one of them has gone belly up in over 7 years.... 

 

frats,

Rosco

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Already done, Bram...

I have chosen the closest MJK tyre to the wheels which Ranch Design made for my little Cooper... they will fit, and can be trimmed down to meet the Tasman Cup size rule... 

Keen to learn if anyone else has had issues with PG tyres going "off".... 

 

frats,

Rosco

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...