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Sideways Nissan Skyline, Afternoon Tune

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Intro first, copied from my review

 

I have been looking forward to this car a lot. I haven’t built a new Group 5 racer for club in a long time.

Taking the car from the box, the first thing that struck me was that it looks really BIG. A closer look and comparison with my BMW M1 revealed surprises.

The wheelbase is about the same. The body width which looks huge is just 1mm wider than the BMW M1 at 66mm

The body is a little higher than the M1, but I don't expect this to change handling much.

Tampo work and paint look fine and even with no bleed.

nissan2.jpgnissan3.jpg

But it has more overhang behind the rear axle.

nissan1.jpg

It is longer overall, and may have a touch more guide lead.

The mechanical setup is identical to other Sideways models, fitted with a Slot.it Flat-6, 11:28 gearing, and 17.3 x 8mm alloys on the back, plastic on the front.

Guide is a CH85 Slot.it with the usual relatively stiff braid. This will need changing out for a soft braid if you are doing non magnet racing.

Standard tyres appear to be the Slot.it C1 compound. Again, for non magnet racing you will want to replace these with something suited to your track.

 

Under the base of the display box are the usual bits and pieces for altering the mechanical offset of the rear axle and mounting a digital chip.

Do not panic when you see the rear spoiler is missing on the car – that is also under the base, and just clips in place.

There is a flexible black replacement wing available separately for purchase, I will also fit that to the car for racing.

nissan6.jpg

The body is very light at 18 grams and the wheel arches are open very high.

nissan5.jpg

Overall weight is still a smidgen over 80 grams.

 

I found a set of 17 x 10mm rims with high profile NSR 21 x 12 ultragrips I had pre-trued.

nissan14.jpg

So I set the car up first with the standard configuration using these wheels

I switched the standard rear axle holder with 0.5mmm offset, for the one in the bag of bits with 1mm offset, which lowered the car, and added some 0.5mm

rubber spacers between the pod mounts and the chassis. I set the front and rear pod screws at 3/4 turn off tight and the side wing one at just over a turn

off tight, and obtained 5.1s with the usual little things done, 5.3s with the body on.

I didn't add any nose weight to this heavier stock configuration, but feel I was pushing the limits for nose lift out of corners.

 

But as I am a sidewinder junkie, I decided to use a pod unit that was sitting assembled on my bench.

Nipped off the triangular "winglets" inside the front of the chassis, so it could accept a Slot.it pod.

 

nissan12.jpg

This was a CH67 pod with 0.5mm offset, and a Slot.it Orange Bell / MX16 motor, geared 11:35. It already has the motor screwed in place for additional

pod rigidity. 6 grams weight around the guide to hold the nose down.

This has a bit less power than the stock Flat-6 unit in the car, but as I want this car for racing smaller tracks, I am hoping to emulate a Moby Dick Porsche

I used to have set up the same way. It was easier to drive on small tracks than my high power BMW M1 pictured earlier.

 

- Glued and trued front tyres – My easy method.

Outside edge, roll back tyre around entire circumference, drip glue onto outer edge, snap back into place, leave to dry.

nissan9.jpgnissan10.jpg

Inside edge - peel back a little at a time, drip, release.

 

- Nipped “side wings” off pod, as they aren’t used.

Replaced pod screws with longer one - these are actually body mount screws.

Set wheel width on non-drive side with 2mm of spacers, and on drive side with a single 0.5mm steel spacers for free spinning

nissan11.jpg

 

I have the original washer on the screw coming from underneath the pod, then that 1mm thick red rubber washer between the top of the chassis and the

underside of the screw mount of the pod. These cushion pod movement in a similar way to using tape under the chassis, but are adjustable.

This has the effect of raising the pod 1mm, and lowers the rear end which has those large 21mm diameter tyres. I now have about 1mm track clearance.

Note that this chassis has those silver vertical ribs under the main plate – emulating the 1:1 car. Be careful you don’t make the car so low they touch.

 

How do I know this . . . . . .

- Front ride height set for full guide depth.

- Replaced body screws with longer ones, and fitted the same little red rubber washer on the screw before putting onto car. Like with the pod, this is

cushioning the pull of the screw onto the underside of the chassis.

If you wanted to be clever you could use one between the chassis and the body post, but you would want to shorten the body post by the same amount

so you don’t raise the body.

- Replaced those rear BBS insets with some G5R01 from Sideways as used on the Capri and Mustang, which look a lot nicer.

nissan13.jpg

 

With a further tickle of the tyres; the car now does consistent 5.1s and 5.2s around my track. Faster than my old Porsche Moby Dick, and just 0.1 slower

than my higher powered M1.

I am running the pod screws half a turn off finger tight, just moving, and the body screws backed off one full turn. It seems a little touchy about the

setting of the body screws. Too tight and it can't rock enough to correctly load up the amount of tyre grip - which is significant. I can go around the

hairpin at a speed that would make some think it had wood magnets fitted.

 

nissan16.jpg

 

That isn't a fault in the front spoiler Tampo, there is actually a tow hook protruding at the front of the car above the wing level.

 

nissan15.jpg

 

As you can see, I have only a bare MM clearance at rear after lifting the pod with the rubber spacers.

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Great write up Mark

I want one of these so much, along with the Celica they are promising to bring out, some time...

Budget days otherwise though... :-(

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I since added about 4 grams weight to the pod - by way of a couple of spare magnets in the pockets front of the motor - just because it was quick, dirty, low and easily removable, plus a layer of really thin 0.8mm lead above it.

I think it is more consistent, easier to drive at the edge with the lead, but nothing much in it for lap times. To each his own.

 

It is still lighter than the weight of the stock car with the Flat-6 angle-winder, at 78.3 grams versus 81.4 grams, so it is no "lead sled"

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Am due to possibly race this tomorrow, and still not happy with the look of the wheels so purists - look away now.

I just fitted it with ScaleAuto Sebring alloys. 
The rears are the largest available at 17.8mm x 10mm, and I fitted a high profile NSR Supergrip 21.5 x 11.5 - which are more like 22.3mm on these big hubs
The fronts are 16.9mm x 10mm, managed to stretch some Slot.it PT07 zero grips over the fronts
 

The end result are feet which I like the look of, and fill the wheel arches better.
The 0.5mm offset sidewinder pod has also been raised 1mm with spacers between the underside of the pod logs and the top side of the chassis.
If I was fussier, I would have used a 1mm offset sidewinder pod ... ah well. 
I am yet to lift the front axle ride height, to drop the nose for the larger front wheels. I'll do that when I have finished truing.
That will lower the front stance about 1mm

nissan3s.jpg

nissan1s.jpg

nissan2s.jpg

 

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A friend brought his one round yesterday for me to breath on it for him and must say first time i,ve seen a live one and did think that decal on the front BRICK really suited this car, on my track it was a brick really needed sorting , why are those rear wheel arches so B big the whole car looks to big , at least there seems to be loads of advice on how to make it better on here and slot forum, but i was wondering why you had to go to so much trouble on a newly released slot car from usually a good maker, to make a car people seem to want rather than the brick it is standard out of the box, answers please. 

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They certainly are the automotive equivalent of "a face only a mother could love" 
Well the wheels were a personal cosmetic thing. Having seen how good Savage's cars looked on SFI, I wanted to do something.

Everything else is exactly the same as I do to every Sideways Group 5, which need to be faster than a GT1 and s fast as 65-80 sports classes on small tracks - at least in our club that's the case

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It’s swallowed up those wheels Mark, they look good. Will get to mine at some point - have used that o-ring idea on a couple of cars now, front and/or rear of pod. It does indeed seem to help make for a nicer drive. 

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Yes, the o-rings soften/cushion movement to eliminate jerking and click points. Fibreglass tape under the pod/chassis works similar, but I think the o-rings do a more controllable job. They also raise the pod above the line of the chassis, increasing clearance.

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