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Gday guys. I have a recess bit for the 3/16th braid but not 1/4. Which size bit do I need for this?

Thanks in advance

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This all comes down to the braid (magnabraid or copper tape) that you have chosen to lay down, if you are using braid, I have worked out the standard is 1/4", you can purchase the slot bit and the braid recess bit from:

 

https://slotcarcorner.com/track-braiding/braid-products-1-4-c209/

 

as you can see they offer both sizes you mentioned, I measured the braid on my current track and it is 1/4". This from slotcarcorner:

Note: We offer braid in two (2) widths - 1/4" and 3/16". The wider 1/4" braid is much more commonplace (commercial tracks have been using it for almost 50 years). Therefore, we recommend the 1/4" braid and related braiding products unless you prefer to use the narrower 3/16" braid.

 

here are further links for 1/4" items:

braid roller: https://slotcarcorner.com/Track-Braiding/Braid-Products-1-4-/Deluxe-Braid-Roller-for-1-4-Braid-p38.html

slot router bit: https://slotcarcorner.com/Track-Braiding/Braid-Products-1-4-/Straight-Router-Bit-p36.html

braid recess bit: https://slotcarcorner.com/Track-Braiding/Braid-Products-1-4-/Special-Router-Bit-for-1-4-Braid-p35.html

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John,

 

I actually bought my router bit from SCC, they have a page for measurements

http://www.slotcarcorner.com/Special-Router-Bit-p35.html

 

Are you going to have a crack yourself now?


Cheers Grant

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Hi Grant

 

No I am getting the CMC guys to cut it out and route the slot but I will do the recess. Just feel a little more comfortable with that and it is an easy job.

 

CHeers

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John,

 

I actually bought my router bit from SCC, they have a page for measurements

http://www.slotcarco...er-Bit-p35.html

 

Are you going to have a crack yourself now?

 

Howdy Grant, yeah I am, I will start with the simplest of things and that will be straights to insert into my MrTrax system. That link you posted is the exact one I bought

 

I managed to grab a routing kit from Greg Gaub, the kit contents are:

Track Building Master Kit by Greg Gaub

This kit includes the:

- Routing Kit (Routing Strip, Routing Guide, Router Base Plate),

- Taping Tool (colour may vary) I will use braid rather than copper tape, and

- How-To DVD, 2 hours plus. All you need is a router, copper tape, and some nails!

Price - $80

Save more than $20!

For the next five orders, INTERNATIONAL SHIPPING IS FREE! (this special limit could be sold or ended, please check the site link)

 

The Track Building Master Kit will have you building the race course of your dreams in no time! Each kit includes tip sheets to help with your project.

 

https://www.ggaub.com/slots/wood.shtml I see Greg has one left still at special discounted price, this is what it looks like:

Track-Building-Master-Kit-by-Greg-Gaub.jpg

Edited by Johnno

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I drilled a 3mm hole in the end of a 7/8” router bit, used epoxy to glue the drill bit in then cut it off to 5mm slot depth.

I recommend CNC then do your own braid recess. Use the 1/4” braid for sure. I used non magnetic.

 

550CAC9C-1962-408B-BE6A-AD1F5F4EA4D7_zpstbneondw.jpeg

Edited by aussieslotter
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The best form of satisfaction is success.

www.scorpiuswireless.com

 

 

 

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Hi Aussieslotter. When my brother and I had a track CNC'ed about 10 years ago we had slot and recess done at same time. Great job but probably more than one pass.

 

Have just done a small 3 lane track by conventional methods. A bit of practice required but not too bad. The guide pipe system works really well. Recess after that was a piece of cake although locating pin did fall out several times when I lifted out of slot. I learnt not to do this. Not sure what it was glued with but it failed. I tried resin but it just melted. Some Loctite might work.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton

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Another reason to purchase a proper made bit, less hassles and the right tool for the right job. I certainly would not trust that bit to be accurate now that it has fallen apart, I hope you have a way of making sure it is perfectly straight otherwise it will wobble all over the place :)

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Slotsnz sells the rebate bits...have a look at his website


John Warren

Slotcars are my preferred reality

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479CA086-EE8D-425F-894C-B7F7B228D722_zps9ezjheat.jpeg

 

Just as good as CNC with practice of course. Using my home made recess bit.

You need verniers to get depth perfect. 0.8mm if using double sided tape.

Edited by aussieslotter
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The best form of satisfaction is success.

www.scorpiuswireless.com

 

 

 

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For the next five orders, INTERNATIONAL SHIPPING IS FREE! (this special limit could be sold or ended, please check the site link)

 

https://www.ggaub.com/slots/wood.shtml I see Greg has one left still at special discounted price, this is what it looks like:

Track-Building-Master-Kit-by-Greg-Gaub.jpg

 

Thanks for the plug, John. That is correct, there is ONE kit left in the free international shipping promotion. For those of you down under, that's saving $40 USD that would normally be required for the cost of shipping. I'm losing money on this promo, but in this time, I wanted to make it easier for people to enjoy their own routed wood slot car track.

 

It's worth noting that this is the official product made famous by Luf Linkert at OldSlotRacer.com. The sales of the kit were transfered to Devis3Designs, and then to me when they diversified. If you want some inspiration, checking out his site will find you days later, not realizing you've been looking at pics and vids of people's routed tracks all over the world for the last 72 hours straight. ;-) You've been warned!

 

Also, I apologize to everyone for not spending much time on this forum and only popping on after John said my name three times. There are just so many slot car forums, and so little time. ;-) I just didn't want anyone to be unaware of this promotion, especially you guys who will benefit the most from it.

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Thanks for the reples guys. Thanks Rick. I am going to create my own much like you have done.

Cheers

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Hi all. Mine was a SlotsNZ bit but perhaps I was too rough. Did a great job though even with loose pin. I recessed for copper tape not braid so a very fine adjustment. Pays to have test piece until you get it right. I also did my 8mm deep slot in one pass and that was too much. At least two, possibly three recommended. I was using Millend bits though as I could not source router bits at time so that might have limited. Still came out sort of OK. Cars run well.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton

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Chas, what router did you use? I have seen some use those smaller laminate trimmers while others have used a full plunge router setup

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Hi Johnno. I used small Ryobi trim type. Only thing I wondered was whether it was too fast. I have a Makita one too as I forgot I had bought but it is even faster. Have one set up now for slot and one for recess. Doing 8mm depth couple of bits ok but after a while started burning. My son said I should have done several passes so will try that next time. I used 1/8th endmill but now have source of 1/8th router bits. They are about 3x the price though. Also have RSS 3mm from M10 to try for next project but SlotsNZ said better to use 1/8th. As trackcan run 1/24th as well as 1/32nd wanted to used the wider 1/8th bits. I will use 3mm on rally tracks. Have two more of them to do.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton (charlesx)

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Jonno,

 

I've used both and prefer my smaller one, guess like everything it depends on the size of the job and personal preference


Cheers Grant

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Home Track..........Corvette C1 Build..........McLaren M1A Build..........Maserati 300S Build..........Allard J2 Build..........50's Diner..........Iso Griffo A3C

 

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yes I have seen many people say you need to do multiple passes on the slot. The trim and laminate routers can be speed controlled, well my Makita one is. As for 1/32 and 1/24 cars you just make the lane spacing wider (again from what I have read, could be wrong)

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Jonno,

 

I've used both and prefer my smaller one, guess like everything it depends on the size of the job and personal preference

 

The laminate/trim routers are better controlled from my use with them in the past, the full on plunge routers are bulky to some extent. I too am just unsure if the trim/laminate router, I guess I will find out when the bits arrive and have a go hey

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Jonno,

 

Chas was talking about the slot width, 1/8 = 3.175mm, the 1/24 cars have a slightly thicker and longer guide so, although 3mm is OK for the straights, for a home track which will undoubtedly have tighter corners the slightly extra width helps a lot.

 

Although with hand routing a 3mm slot can easily become 3.5mm if doing it in depth increments even with a router guide.


Cheers Grant

20191120172309-193d8f3b.gif.......................................................20170306174707-b4015afe.gif

Home Track..........Corvette C1 Build..........McLaren M1A Build..........Maserati 300S Build..........Allard J2 Build..........50's Diner..........Iso Griffo A3C

 

3D Printed Adjustable Chassis..........3D Print Projects

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Yes those measurements are what mine is sitting at as well (close to anyway), I have a MrTrax routed system which can run 1/24 and 1/32 and I have a few tight corners which is why I am going to have a try and create my own obviously with failures and success (I hope)

Edited by Johnno

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My thoughts below, not just for John and Charles, but for anyone routing a track who may read this thread.

 

i have cut in a few quotes, as these are the common questions and issues discussed.

And no criticism intended of Charles or anyone else - believe me, I started from barely being able to swing a hammer 18 years ago to renovate houses with a friend I employed as projects manager, and he had to teach me everything from his joiners bag of tricks to be able to do even basic carpentry.

Taking on making routed slot tracks was only possible because I had lots professional help along the way ! So all power to anyone reading this thread who wants to give it a go.

DO, the end result is very satisfying. You'll be okay.

 

.... I am getting the CMC guys to cut it out and route the slot but I will do the recess. Just feel a little more comfortable with that and it is an easy job.

 

CHeers

 

This is often the best thing to do anyway. MDF is not very accurate in depth across a sheet, both due to the roll press construction methods in plants, and the humidity on the day when cooling.

So you cannot get accurate enough rebating depth unless the CNC shop has a "floating head" routeing system.

 

I drilled a 3mm hole in the end of a 7/8" router bit, used epoxy to glue the drill bit in then cut it off to 5mm slot depth.

I recommend CNC then do your own braid recess. Use the 1/4" braid for sure. I used non magnetic.

 

Good advice - Rick has done plenty himself.

This is basically what I do to make a bit, what Steve at SCC does, what LUF used to do - and I assume mr F. does now.

- I do use either width of braid. I like the smaller 3/16th for home tracks as it is a bit less obtrusive. For larger and commercial tracks, I would recommend going for a 1/4" braid, and a thicker one than the stock 0.030" thick braid that you see from SCC.

I actually have a sample at home of that 1/4 x 0.050 inch, for possibly relaying Wongy's blue magnabraid track.

 

Hi Aussieslotter. When my brother and I had a track CNC'ed about 10 years ago we had slot and recess done at same time. Great job but probably more than one pass.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton

 

CNC routing is different Charles. For 8mm cut depth at a small 3 - 3.5mm width; they generally make 3 passes, as the principle is that you don't cut deeper each pass than the diameter of the cutting bit - the powerful machines tend to shatter them. - We lost 2 one day on a CNC machine cutting my "modules" before we settled on 3 passes not 2. - Fortunately the power tool and engineering supplies shop had a few Linbides in stock.

Then they would swap bit and cut the recess. CNC has the accuracy for repeatability to work this way, which we don't have when working with guide strips and trammels.

 

So I strongly disagree with your son about using multiple passes in a home router setting, as we don't have the accuracy or repeatability. The main slot should be done slowly in one pass.

I have seen a few messes and listened to some sad stories from people trying to do multiple passes.

If you go slowly to avoid forcing the router which could overheat and burn or shatter the main cutting bit, there is no reason to use multiple passes. My instructions for routing state that it should feel like cutting butter with a hot knife. If you feel resistance slow down. A bigger router is better than a little laminate trimmer. People just have to avoid cooking that main cutting bit.

- And twin flute up-cut bits are the ideal as the disperse the cuttings immediately from the slot. If you have a router able to fit a vacuum exhaust bag, or a patient helper with a vacuum that makes life easier too.

 

Another reason to purchase a proper made bit, less hassles and the right tool for the right job. I certainly would not trust that bit to be accurate now that it has fallen apart, I hope you have a way of making sure it is perfectly straight otherwise it will wobble all over the place :)

 

In my defense since my router bit is the one that fell apart. First time I have ever had that happen in over 150 bits, and mine are made the same was as Steve's, as Luf's were, and I presume Me F. makes his.

I drill the bit with a diamond drill so the pin is a firm slide fit. I drill for a 3.5mm stock, because with best will in the world, a home lathe and drill will have some inaccuracy of angle as the drill starts cutting into the hard tail of the main bit. This means the hole is not always 100% perpendicular. Same goes on my small Unimat as on my brother in law's 250kg behemoth commercial lathe.

- He used to make them for me.

 

Having inserted a section of pin as per what Rick described, I use Loctite permanent to fix the pin; then cut it off at 6mm free protrusion. Again I can vary this on request, but have seldom needed to.

I then turn the pin down from 3.5mm to the desired diameter for sale - I usually make them at 3.14 - 3.15mm diameter so they are an easy slide fit for an 1/8th main router cut (= 3.18mm)

In doing so, I am evening up the rotational accuracy of the pin to the run-out error of the lathe. Mine is currently at under 0.005

But i can make them to any diameter up to 3.5mm for cutting 16mm rebates for 3/16th braid, or up to 4mm pin in 18 or 19mm bits for cutting 6mm to true 1/4" wide braid.

 

Hi all. Mine was a SlotsNZ bit but perhaps I was too rough. Did a great job though even with loose pin. I recessed for copper tape not braid so a very fine adjustment. Pays to have test piece until you get it right. I also did my 8mm deep slot in one pass and that was too much. At least two, possibly three recommended. I was using Millend bits though as I could not source router bits at time so that might have limited. Still came out sort of OK. Cars run well.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton

 

I think you actually hit the nail on the head there Charles. If the pin fell out, it must have encountered significant rotational resistance, as I turn the pins down in the lathe after fixing with loctite; and never had one pull loose.

That you epoxyed the pin back in several times but the epoxy melted seems confirmation of this. I suspect the router bit you used to cut your main slot was not quite right for the rebating bit pin diameter.

Did you by chance use a 3mm main bit instead of 1/8th ?

 

 

Hi Johnno. I used small Ryobi trim type. Only thing I wondered was whether it was too fast. I have a Makita one too as I forgot I had bought but it is even faster. Have one set up now for slot and one for recess. Doing 8mm depth couple of bits ok but after a while started burning. My son said I should have done several passes so will try that next time. I used 1/8th endmill but now have source of 1/8th router bits. They are about 3x the price though. Also have RSS 3mm from M10 to try for next project but SlotsNZ said better to use 1/8th. As trackcan run 1/24th as well as 1/32nd wanted to used the wider 1/8th bits. I will use 3mm on rally tracks. Have two more of them to do.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton (charlesx)

 

Ah, I see you used a 1/8th endmill bit Charles. - The rebating bit pin should have been a smooth slide into that main slot with fractional slop - was that the case, or was it tight?

Burning indicates to fast rotation or pushing too hard. If you repeated that with the rebating bit it may have caused the problem.

 

Does neither router have a speed control on it?

- Most router bits have a maximum rated rotational speed, and the router should be set someway below that rated max RPM.

 

Anyway, those are my combined thoughts on common issues and what to be aware of.

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Time for a cup of tea I think Mark.

 

Nicely articulated.

 

I agree with the cut through butter approach.

To many peeps are in a hurry, as a signature on here says "slow is smooth, smooth is fast" or something like that.


Cheers Grant

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Home Track..........Corvette C1 Build..........McLaren M1A Build..........Maserati 300S Build..........Allard J2 Build..........50's Diner..........Iso Griffo A3C

 

3D Printed Adjustable Chassis..........3D Print Projects

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Hi SlotsNZ.

 

Thanks Mark you have confirmed my own analysis. Comments were never meant as criticism of your product. Clearly self induced. I also think problems I had with routing affected recess cutting. Firm who supplied endmill were not surprised I had a problem so next track will be done with 3mm router bit that I already had. Used 1/8th on your recommendation. You have already given me address where I can get 1/8th router bits in future. I could have borrowed heavy duty router so in hindsight I should have.

 

Son's comment was after I had finished but probably based on his millng experience. No idea. Router does not have a speed control so that is not an option.

 

Our first track was CNC'ed as you may recall 10 years ago for both slot and recess and they did a great job. Was done by a top notch kitchen and engineering firm. They would not or could not do mine however so DIY it was. Have now self routed three tracks so learn a little each time. Despite pin problem I had no problem with recess for copper tape. Hardest part was adjusting for a very slight cut as copper tape is very thin.

 

Have two more tracks to do so hopefully next ones will be better experience. Please appreciate I am no perfectionist and was probably in too much of a hurry. Tracks run great so cannot be too bad. Branco in Westport appears to be tracks at will using own router so there is hope for me yet.

 

Thanks for the helpful advice. Will also try to heed ZeGas's advice next time.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton (charlesx)

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Hehe, nice mark

 

I agree Mark, I’ve played with a router. I have the scc recess bit an I have the slot bit ...I just built an Oval track a few months back it took me 2days to build paint then ran a nascar proxy on it a few days later ...I used the plastic strips with heaps of little holes in it can’t remember where I got them but there from a track maker suppliers... so I only did 1 nice an steady pass with the slot bit then followed the same nice an firm an steady with the recess bit and the finished product

5-FEB0-C84-FEDB-4-A15-AA6-C-6-C0-DF66-FF414.jpg A31-DF673-4-A7-F-4-BE3-873-D-180464460090.jpg

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I agree with Mark, one slow pass for the slot. I use 1/8” for the slot (3.2mm) but 3mm for the pin on the recess but. I go 8mm deep on the slot but the recess bit guide pin is only 5mm long. You don’t want any friction.

 

That’s why I use my big Makita router so it has the power to do it in one pass.

 

I try to seal the entire board same day, hand painting the slot with a tiny brush and spraying both sides, 2 light to medium coats.

 

The next important thing I think is to ensure a smooth that shiny surface on the recess where the double sided tape adheres to, I achieve this by carefully sanding after each coat, except the last coat, then apply the braid.

 

After installing the braid use prepsol or similar to clean the invisible gunk off the new braid to ensure good conductivity.

 

I found a fast way to rubber in the corners, because we’re all in a hurry to go fast on your new track. I just hold an old car with a big motor and rubber tyres in the slot and rev the car to full and use the spinning tyres to lay rubber. You just move the car along slowly and concentrate the spinning tyres where needed most.

 

Rick

 

 


The best form of satisfaction is success.

www.scorpiuswireless.com

 

 

 

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