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Lockdown Projects.

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Hi all. This may seem like a fairly uninspiring lockdown project but just got another lot of SlotsNZ's great little plastic boxes and finished sorting the last of my zillion bits into some sort of order.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton (charlesx)

 

Whoops lost picture. Will try again. PS. Second time lucky.

 

SC-order.jpg

Edited by charlesx

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Painted a few cars myself now and had the wrinkled paint appear on a few.

 

I usually put it down to being impatient and applying the paint to thick in the one coat.

 

Although I must say some of the best looking paint jobs I've had have been applied in the one coat.

 

I use the same primer on all the cars I paint, rub it back and apply the top coat but it still happens every now and again.

 

Doesn't matter if it's a cold or warm day.

 

Stil hate having to strip and start again though.

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Mac,

 

I've had this happen once before when painting acrylic over enamel paint but I'm sure with your experience this would not be the case, although the end result looked identical.

 

I have gone away from using an undercoat at all and am getting some really good results.

 

I use Rust-oleum only as my paint preference and as they do "historic" colours and I do "historic" cars so it matches well.

 

The process that seems to work for me is to sand underwater as per what you are doing, then wash the body in raw dishwashing liquid, works two ways, removes release agent from cast or residue from previously painted surfaces and dries hands out so no person grease is added.

 

Then rinse till no soap bubbles are left, blow dry on cool to get rid of droplet deposits, then air dry for a couple of hours.

 

Three coats of rust-oleum at 20 min intervals no sanding in between, I've got the knack on distance now, too close starts to run, to far and you end up with orange peel effect, the sweet spot seems dependent on temperature so I do some test coats on a dummy first to get the distance right.

 

Let it harden for 48 hours, apply decals etc. then dip into floor polish for final clear coat, 2 dips 24 hours apart.

 

Seems to work for me.


Cheers Grant

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Home Track..........Corvette C1 Build..........McLaren M1A Build..........Maserati 300S Build..........Allard J2 Build..........50's Diner..........Iso Griffo A3C

 

3D Printed Adjustable Chassis..........3D Print Projects

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Thanks for the comments guys. I soaked the body in turps overnight and stripped all the paint. It’s been washed in warm soapy water and cleaned up well. I’m air drying it and will try a new coat of paint this weekend. Fingers crossed.


Podiums are for short people.

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And, post turps, we're back...

 

8sk5Bpul.jpg

 

A quick test squirt with my usual matt black primer and all is well in Mustangville. Thanks for the tip Grt.

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Podiums are for short people.

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Hi all.

 

Have finally finished my Ford Capri Group 5 re-build. The Maserati MC12 conversion is also nearing completion but more on this later.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton

 

Ford-Maserati.jpg

 

Ford-3.jpg

 

Ford-2.jpg

 

Ford-1.jpg

Edited by charlesx

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Love Grp5


Cheers Grant

20191120172309-193d8f3b.gif.......................................................20170306174707-b4015afe.gif

Home Track..........Corvette C1 Build..........McLaren M1A Build..........Maserati 300S Build..........Allard J2 Build..........50's Diner..........Iso Griffo A3C

 

3D Printed Adjustable Chassis..........3D Print Projects

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Hi ZeGas.

 

The Group 5 was built a number of year ago from white kit. Originally had a hand built styrene chassis and Slot-it pod with original Slot-it Flat 6 22000rpm chassis. After a couple of proxies converted to Sideways chassis and replaced motor with Slot-it 25000rpm black Flat 6. Was always a sidewinder. While it went OK have now tried to improve by converting to AW. Have not added any weight yet except what in-line had down each side of motor.

 

Decals were made by Tassie Phil for original version but over years some had worn off so have now replaced several and put a thicker coat of clear coat on this time. Hopefully this will last.

 

See Sideways have just released a SUNOCO Mustang Group 5. Looks great but I will stay with my version.

 

Thanks for comment. Regards Chas Le Breton (charlesx)

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There was a hidden message there ..... sort of.

 

This is my lockdown project, still a work in progress, free resin cast, once (if it ever gets) done if you guess the car. +P&P :D

 

20200508202309-de121c44-sm.jpg


Cheers Grant

20191120172309-193d8f3b.gif.......................................................20170306174707-b4015afe.gif

Home Track..........Corvette C1 Build..........McLaren M1A Build..........Maserati 300S Build..........Allard J2 Build..........50's Diner..........Iso Griffo A3C

 

3D Printed Adjustable Chassis..........3D Print Projects

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Feck it, right on Shaynus, now I got to figure out resin casting.

 

Aiming for the '77 Rham/1

 

Aston-Martin-V8-RHAM-1-65169.jpg


Cheers Grant

20191120172309-193d8f3b.gif.......................................................20170306174707-b4015afe.gif

Home Track..........Corvette C1 Build..........McLaren M1A Build..........Maserati 300S Build..........Allard J2 Build..........50's Diner..........Iso Griffo A3C

 

3D Printed Adjustable Chassis..........3D Print Projects

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Hi ZeGas.

 

Looks a bit like a Mustang but it could be some other USA car. Not like the Sideways one. Always meaning to make a resin body. Have the materials but not the initiative.

 

I have a draw full of resin bodies mainly for proxies but have not built one for a while. Last was 1/29th Bugeye Sprite for Canadian Proxy 3-4 years ago.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton

 

PS. Heck I was a mile out.

Edited by charlesx

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PS. Heck I was a mile out.

 

Like my modelling


Cheers Grant

20191120172309-193d8f3b.gif.......................................................20170306174707-b4015afe.gif

Home Track..........Corvette C1 Build..........McLaren M1A Build..........Maserati 300S Build..........Allard J2 Build..........50's Diner..........Iso Griffo A3C

 

3D Printed Adjustable Chassis..........3D Print Projects

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Flick back to removing paint.... I have done this with troublesome plastic model locomotives. Methylated spirits removed the paint from "Lima" locomotives... The "Athern" ones were a bit more determined... I used brake fluid on the paint applied to them... took a couple of days, but it eventually let go....

 

I would be very hesitant to use turps on a plastic model... I have seen some forms of plastic go "sticky" after using turps... fortunately, not my own...

 

The primer I prefer to use is an automotive 1K etch.. it can be thinned down for use in an airbrush, but I don't believe I've ever used it on plastic... I believe it would attack...

In model railways, we use a product called "Steam Era etch primer" it is metho based... is super thin which is important for not hiding precious detail... it comes in both grey and black... obviously, black for steam loco's....

 

Paint viscosity, temperature, humidity, distance and pass speed all play a great role in just how the finish results.

I have a simple method for setting viscosity.... I pre-warm the paint slightly, by putting it under my armpit for a few minutes to bring it up to body temp - this is pretty constant.... unless I have a fever... the temp is consistent even if spraying out in the garage... so, that's the first step.... second step, is to shake the living daylights out of the airbrush bottle for a good 30 seconds... then stop and count the seconds until "bubbles" can be seen at the top of the paint... the longer the time for "bubbles" - the thicker the paint is.. I like to spray when I can count out 5 seconds.... if it takes more, I add more thinners... less, and I add paint....

 

Distance and speed depend on pressure and viscosity... I love to spray thin paint and build up the layers.... lose a bit of gloss - but a clear coat is more than likely going over the top regardless.... if so, I only apply just enough colour coat to mask out the primer until I get a solid cover...

Many apply way too much paint to high detail factory models... and lose much of it when the thick paint coating forms a bog like flood.......

 

frats,

Rosco

Edited by rosco01

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Hi all.Finally finished my Scaly track re-build. Sure I could have built a wood track in the same time. Its on the heavy side as I used what I had lying around during lock down but pretty happy with result. Could not get parts so only wired for Scaly at moment but have made provision for wiring. Decided not to paint track surface in meantime as it drives so well.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton (charlesx)

 

Ian-2.jpg

Ian-1.jpg

Ian-3.jpg

Edited by charlesx
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Nice one Chas. Always good to get to the racing stage with any project.

 

After all the paint drama, my AutoArt Mustang is finally done. This iPhone pix doesn't really capture the stance; it looks lower and meaner in the flesh.

 

gDANHo9l.jpg

 

hMU2suEl.jpg

Edited by slotmadmac

Podiums are for short people.

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Mate, thats awesome, absolutely love the matt finish.

 

It is great to see the wide variety of works on the bench and in the head.


Cheers Grant

20191120172309-193d8f3b.gif.......................................................20170306174707-b4015afe.gif

Home Track..........Corvette C1 Build..........McLaren M1A Build..........Maserati 300S Build..........Allard J2 Build..........50's Diner..........Iso Griffo A3C

 

3D Printed Adjustable Chassis..........3D Print Projects

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Nice work this the track Chas. I like the shape of the table "legs" so you can roll it on to it's side. Nice idea.

That black 'Stang looks good-looking nice and mean attitude to it.

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Hi Shaynus.

 

Not sure where the idea for legs came from originally but SlotsNZ (Mark Burgess) suggested back in 2009-10 when my brother and I built our first wood track. We used 4 legs for this as it is 5.8m x1.8m but I got away with 3 for my new wood track that is only 4.8m x 1.2m.

 

Normally use 1200mm x 600mm x 12mm handy panels for legs. My track is only about 160mm deep when rolled against wall so does not take up much room.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton (charlesx)

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Tracks a goer,only running 10 volt at the moment,12v would scare me too much

Experimenting with track prep trying to get all types of tyres comfortable as I have a big variety of cars & tyre combos & I hate shelf queens.

MJK's are very good,NSR super grips are getting there,foam are working good on some & not so good on others,I think some of them just need a good clean as most haven't had much run lately.

Track is tight & suits 1/32 better than 1/24th,with a couple of thousand laps I'm getting used to the tight corners & not as worried as I was the first few laps,having some grip certainly helps but I don't want too much.

My 1/24th Nascars are the best of the 1/24th group which makes me happy as they are my favourite class.

Cheers Jimmy :D

DSCN3051.jpg

006.jpgbest free image hosting

Plain & simple under the bonnet

005.jpgwhat fish can i put with a betta

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To finsh first,first you gotta finish

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