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slotmadmac

Lockdown Projects.

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Brilliant job Mike. That 190E is straight out of the top drawer.

 

I got some time yesterday to move the C.46 forward. I've never been a fan of the old Scalextric 'clamshells', so seeing as this body already needed repairing and paint, I decided to section the chassis and add the removed side pans to the body. After some mucking about I got here:

 

q6RDYoul.jpg

 

ss3kKCal.jpg

 

There's still some tidying up to do but I am liking where this is going.


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Holy smokes Bram. That's cool.

 

Cheers Mac, also didn't realise Scaley had built a 917 donkeys ages ago. Probably after my earliest slot time (mid 60's) and before my current slot time no doubt.


bram1_zpsfkhrhndv.jpg

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The old C.46 ended up here:

 

wLjTXiAl.jpg

 

vqDqHghl.jpg

 

7o19JTel.jpg

 

It's lovely smooth runner now and I'm pleased I took the plunge and sectioned the bottom half of the clamshell. One thing's for sure; the unmistakable smell of these old RX motors takes me right back to my childhood. For me it's the small of envy. I couldn't afford a Scalextric set as a kid and made do with a battery powered Motorific set. Some family friends had a big Scalextric set up though and I spent every possible minute at their house running laps with RX powered Lotus's. It's where it all started for me.

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Great job there Mac. Like the old motor. Reminds me of my first Lotus 16. Regards Chas Le Breton

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Two more conventional cars hit the bench for a complete strip, clean and rebuild. I added fresh tyres to the rears and re-trued the fronts.

 

This Nissan R390 is the Slot It RAW version with the Flat 6 anglewinder; a real monster on the track.

 

PQCFHBhl.jpg

 

And this ScaleAuto Merc has come up especially well. It's another long can car. I'n not usually a fan of the long can, but this one is a very sweet drive.

 

RpMEcxql.jpg


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Hi all.

 

Finally have new Scaly track ready for painting after installing copper tape. Track runs beautifully. Power is so even and it just smooths out whole driving experience. Does seem I could have built a wood track in the time it has taken however. See photo below for progress to date.

 

For anybody who is interested in taping their Scaly track - a strong recommendation on my part. Plastic track must of course be fastened down on a baseboard but not necessarily to the extent I have gone to. It is super easy to install and appears to need no special installation other than laying over the top of existing contact rails. I gave rails a good clean first. Just be careful to set back slightly from slot edge like a wood track so guide does not catch on edge of tape. Also press to rail lightly as you go so you do not get bubbles in tape. This allows tape to be repositioned easily before final press if required. I just used what I had (7/32 wide) but you could use narrower tape. This would allow it to go around corners a little easier with fewer creases and would not overlap plastic so much. Appears tape I used was originally meant for lead light window manufacture but while much lighter than copper tape of old it still works. If damaged it is easily replaced or patched. Finally if you decide to change your layout or just pull up; tape should easily peel off and you are back to original sectional track.

 

In the UK they also tend to paint track for better grip for non-magnet racing so that is my next step but it is fine the way it is with my non-magnet cars.

 

Please do hesitate to ask questions if you have wish. System is probably not new in NZ but I wanted to try myself. I am impressed.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton (charlesx)

 

Ians-track-30-4-2020.jpg

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Here's my track update,all painted & routed,bottom braided & bridges refitted ready for their braid tomorrow. :D

Best part of a Slot car track is all the storage room underneath,but the bride still thinks I've got too much crap :wacko:

Cheers Jimmy :D

20200430-185649.jpgfood on sawmill

  • Upvote 1

To finsh first,first you gotta finish

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Telling a man he has too much crap in his shed / storage room is like telling a woman she has to many shoes / clothes...Oh, and nice track too!

Edited by Shaynus

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As others have said I wasn't aware of C46, the 'clamshell' chassis Porsche 917 ... the one that 'Mac' has been working on with such success.

 

However, I do have a C22 Porsche 917 that has the Raymond FT16 motor mounted on the bottom of the clip-in interior.

 

With regard to the RX motor in C46 and other Scalextric cars using this style of motor, restorers may be able to use the motors that came with some of the SCX cars such as the Tyrrell 001, McLaren M9A, Sigma Monoposto and the Mustang and Corvette Hot Rod models.

 

Den

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One of my recent lockdown completions.

 

The car had the windows super glued in poorly when I got it. So I broke them when removing them to clean up the car. Knowing I wanted to build this to be a racer I ended up making some new windows out of .005" clear styrene. They aren't perfect, but do the job just fine.

 

I also installed a lexan interior, Piranha motor, sloting plus axles, CB designs 15x8 front and 15x11 rear wheels, NSR F1 rear supergrips, blocked up the front axle, and added some lead.

 

The wheel inserts are Slot.it porsche 956. As I thought they were the closest I could easily get to the stock wheels.

 

Its a great runner now and looks nice flying around the track!

 

49827277536_325fa7e4e5_k.jpg

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A mate asked me to build him a racer that would be competitive in his local 18k Scalextric GT class and I came up with this. I like these Ford GTs. They are low and wide and, like all the Scalextric sidewinders, very easy to modify.

 

VxXoxKSl.jpg

 

The motor is about the only thing stock about it now. It's got new wheels all round. Avant Slot up the front and Slot It air system at the back with 20x10 Ultragrips. SCX Pro inserts. Slot it axles. Avant Slot guide. NSR pinion and gear 11/27. I cut the interior down by 2/3, put a new interior floor in and cut the driver down too. Looks stock unless you really look hard but the weight saving was definitely worth it.

 

I lowered the rear end by raising the rear bushes in the chassis clips and tubed the front axle to lower the front end and get the guide as deep as possible in the slot. I added some ballast. Slotting Plus smooth shank racing screws for good body float finished it off.

 

This was one of those builds were everything went smoothly and I knew it was going to be a honey when tested. On my track it laps fast (7.4s - good for a Scalextric GT) and will only get faster as the tyres come on and the motor gets into its work.

Edited by slotmadmac

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I'm not a Ford person but love those GT40 cars, of all eras.

Those wheel inserts really set it off. Thank you for sharing the modifications you did to it. If I feel brave I may try them myself one day.

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The Scaley Ford GT works for me too. It was the 1st modern era car my son gave me for Xmas when they first came out and started this whole crazy thing again for me.


bram1_zpsfkhrhndv.jpg

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Been working on a few projects with all this extra spare time. The 6 later F1s were low hanging fruit that didn't need much more than a good clean, service and the odd part or 2. The Lotus and Cooper both needed quite a bit of work. The Lotus top and bottom were different colours, but were both Austalian made and of the same type, fit together well. Didn't realise there were significant difference is length and mounts between the different types until I tried to match them up to other odd halves I had. I have kept the pin guide and loop braids for now, as I found a complete set in my spares box, along with the correct connector, and dug out an old running RX motor. Not that fast, but nor sure if its the motor or the braids, but will stay that way for now. I repainted both halves in the colour of the top as I figured that would be easier than trying to match either one. I made the exhausts, windscreen and head myself, the rest are all original. The Cooper was also a full restoration job, as both halves were covered in thick acrylic paint, which took a lot of soaking in brake oil, and a careful clean off of the final remnants with Acetone. The body was quite rough underneath, not sure if that was caused by my efforts to strip it, or was the reason it had such a thick layer of paint, but was able to sand and buff it down to a reasonably smooth finish, but it did require a repaint. I stayed with the original red colour, although this is a little brighter. It was the later model with the swivel guide, which is why I chose this out of the 3 odd pairs of tops and bottoms I had. I have already started to convert a nice green one to a swivel guide as well, as this runs much better (although slower) than the lotus with its pin guide. Might have to test a few of the other old RX motors I've got to see if I can find one with a little more oomph.

Corona Projects 1.jpg

Corona%20Projects%201.jpg

 

Prior to that, I decided to clean up the timber track a bit, filling holes and cracks, sanding and repainting. Tried to give it a used 60's feel by splashing darker swathes of grey over the lighter grey, and then topped it off with a flat clear coat for protection and grip. I then decided to revamp my rather pathetic pit lane, by cleaning up the pit boxes, and gathering all my figures together into teams, making extra resin copies where I was short, then painting them up in team colours. Then found some old bodies, put broken motors and axles on them so I can leave them all there as props.

The Pits 1.jpg

The%20Pits%202.jpg

The%20Pits%203.jpg

 

Enjoy!

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Graeme

~~~~~~

 

(Life is like a sewer....................What you get out of it depends on what you put into it!)

 

My Website

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Oops, forgot to include the Vanwall. The body top was in great condition, but missing the windscreen and exhaust, which I have now made copies of. I think the bottom must have been from a different car, as it had been painted black at some point, then stripped back. But I only had to remove a few specks of paint, then buffed and polished it up to a reasonable finish. Found all the right wheels as well, and the RX motor I grabbed from the box runs very fast indeed, so its a great runner. I know it might be seen as sacrilegious, but I converted this from loop braid to a swivel guide, as there was plenty of room, which meant I could leave the body mounts untouched. Just need to finish it off with the missing bits and number roundels. The other Lotus shells started off as mismatched top and bottom, but then I stumbled across their opposite numbers in a different box - I must really organise myself and sort all my parts boxes out a bit better. :huh: The green Cooper I already mentioned, and last is the mismatched BRM top and bottom, which will be repainted in red most likely. In the background, I am trying to sort out and identify all my different driver heads, I think I have 14 different open face ones! :blink:

 

Corona%20Projects%202.jpg

 

Cheers,

Edited by grt

Graeme

~~~~~~

 

(Life is like a sewer....................What you get out of it depends on what you put into it!)

 

My Website

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My next project was to convert an AutoArt Mustang from a front mounted motor to rear mounted motor setup. I picked this car up recently with a job lot of other cars. I like the classic Shelby blue and white livery, but when it arrived there was some pretty major paint damage covering about 1/3 of the car...

 

vo1N8Ucl.jpg

 

... so I had no choice but to strip the body for a repaint. I decided to go for my stock choice of matt black with matching interior and I had to cut down the interior tray by 2/3 to accomodate the rear motor.

 

S8RsUIMl.jpg

 

The chassis conversion was pretty straightforward. A opening was cut for the new motor position. New wheels, tyres and gears were fitted and I braced a NSR 20 Shark motor to the rear bushes as I like to do. I tubed the front axle to get the front end lower and to get the guide as deep as possible in the slot. The chassis ended up here:

 

SQEp3Ngl.jpg

 

Everything was going well until I shot the first coat of primer on the body. The body had been sanded under water with 400 then 122 wet and dry paper until all decals were removed. I air dried it for a few hours and then put on the first coat of rattle can primer and the paint immediately rippled and cracked on application. I haven't seen this before. I stripped the paint and started again, this time using another primer brand - and the same thing happened. I stripped that coat off and sanded the body down to unpainted plastic and again some of the paint cracked again when I tried a third primer coat. Grrrrrr.

 

12rtPpal.jpg

 

Even weirder was that different parts of the body cracked after each coat of paint. Very strange. I have painted a few hundred slot cars in my time and this is a first for me.

 

Unless someone has a way of fixing this issue, I think I am going to go for the rough street / rat rod look. This is the car as it stands now.

 

uImdPGYl.jpg


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the problem is that you are using spray cans....better get out the brushes and some dulux enamel


John Warren

Slotcars are my preferred reality

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There must be some residue of some sort left over from the original paintwork, or some other treatment it received in a former life.

 

Maybe try giving it a really good soak and scrub with Turps? Although check first that the plastic won't be affected, and try Metho if necessary, but its not as effective as Turps.

 

Then give another good scrub with paint soap or pure soap or similar, and then try. I've seen that happen with resin if an old batch was used or the mix wasn't right, but not with plastic, or not to that extent anyway.

 

Good luck!


Graeme

~~~~~~

 

(Life is like a sewer....................What you get out of it depends on what you put into it!)

 

My Website

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I have been texting with Mac about this

Residue is my thinking as well

With all the hand sanitizing and moisturizing going on lately with this Covid 19

I reckon it could be coming from his hands and it could be getting on to the sand paper on on the plastic surface

Wax and grease remover that the automotive painters use works well in getting all the crap off

Just don't touch it afterwards


Holdens rule the rest just drool

 

slot cars are my drug,

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Is that called acetone?


John Warren

Slotcars are my preferred reality

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Is that called acetone?

 

No. Acetone is used as a thinner, don't want to use that stuff

Think of nail polish remover

Edited by David Carter

Holdens rule the rest just drool

 

slot cars are my drug,

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Thanks guys. I guess I could try another full clean and respray

- though I was pretty meticulous about clean hands and no body contact the last two times I sprayed it.

 

The thing is that the paint was badly wrinkled when I got the car. That means there is some inherent reaction with the plastic. It’s not my painting system. As the first photo shows, the paint problem was there before I got my hands on it.

 

I spent about an hour rubbing the last paint off with wet and dry. Not sure if I want to go through that all again!


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