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ZackM

A Couple Of My Recent Projects.

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New guy here, I thought I would get a thread going with some of my projects. I have been reading some threads and stuff over here and am excited to have a new resource. Part of that of course is contribution!

 

I have only been racing slot cars for about 1.5 years now, entered a few proxies with reasonable success and started doing well in our local club. I decided to take on the challenge of scratch building some cars. I made myself a promise this year that I would scratch build every proxy car I could within the rules to try and better my skill set.

 

I have a few others I will post up, but these are my recent two projects.

 

First is a U2 Trans Am Alfa Romeo Giulia project to run in the HRW TA proxy.

 

I find these scratch built threads to me much more useful with a parts list, so here is goes:

.063" brass front and side pans

.047" Main rails

.032" Center pan

.033" reinforcement wires and fexi-pan connections

1/8" front axle tube

Slick 7 Steel guide tongue

Samson Classics spigot mount guide tube

 

Power and parts:

NSR 20k motor

Slot.it 15.8x8.2mm rear air wheels with NSR supergrip tires

Stock front slot.it 15.8 wheels

Scaleauto guide

Slot.it soft braid

Geared 12/34

 

49667917847_8858e2093b_k.jpg

 

49667092378_9e501199d8_k.jpg

 

49667635251_b999772529.jpg

 

Zack

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The next one I started after the Alfa was my Proto Ferrari 350gt Can Am. I have had this body sitting around a long while, and finally felt confident I could put a decent chassis under it. Because of the weight of the body I knew it would never be the fastest car in my box, but I want a smooth fun car to drive. So I decided on going with a standard inline layout and using a big tire in back to get the grip up.

 

Materials:

.063" Front and side pans

.055" main rails

.032" pan connections

.047" front axle supports

Slick 7 steel guide tongue

Samson classics spigot mount guide tube

Professor motor forged motor bracket.

 

Parts/powertrain:

CB designs 15x10 rear wheels, with NSR classic 21x12 supergrips

Stock slot 15.8 front wheels

Slot.it orange bell motor

Stock inline slot.it gearing

Sloting plus guide

 

These motor brackets are a bit heavy duty for the 1/32 stuff, but they work well for the tire diameters. I shaved the top of the bracket down to try and lose some of the weight up high.

 

This car is almost together and I hope to have it up and running tonight.

 

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49694915572_8fa319d707_k.jpg

 

49694915677_2c201de9ee_k.jpg

 

Thanks for looking,

Zack

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Brass is beautiful....Good stuff there, Zack.


John Warren

Slotcars are my preferred reality

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Hi Zack,

 

Looks like you have been doing this for years, those are awesome chassis'.

Did you make the motor pod yourself?

If you did would love to see a process when you do the next one.


Cheers Grant

20191120172309-193d8f3b.gif.......................................................20170306174707-b4015afe.gif

Home Track..........Corvette C1 Build..........McLaren M1A Build..........Maserati 300S Build..........Allard J2 Build..........50's Diner..........Iso Griffo A3C

 

3D Printed Adjustable Chassis..........3D Print Projects

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Hi Zack,

 

Looks like you have been doing this for years, those are awesome chassis'.

Did you make the motor pod yourself?

If you did would love to see a process when you do the next one.

 

If it is the Alfa you are referring to, It doesn't have a real motor pod. The motor is actually soldered in place. I have found most of these higher quality can motors are plenty reliable, so even though it is a pain to remove them soldering them in is usually much lighter and easier than having a traditional motor bracket.

 

In this case the motor is soldered in with small "L" shaped piece of brass on top of the axle tube, and the second connection is a piece of .032" wire right in front of the motor.

 

The pan in the center of the car I made pivot at the front, and it is just retained by the perimeter wire and the .032" holder wire on top of the .047" rails. This was done so the chassis could flex separately from the pan.

 

49699260112_cd142f8316_k.jpg

 

49699260027_90d735b3c2_k.jpg

 

Zack

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Lovely work there Zack.

And adding a parts list is something very few would take the time to do - thanks a lot.

 

Now I shall go away and hide in a corner and quietly rock back and forth while I adjust to the new feeling of "build insufficiency"

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Was actually meaning the canam pod and axle assembly, it looks the biz


Cheers Grant

20191120172309-193d8f3b.gif.......................................................20170306174707-b4015afe.gif

Home Track..........Corvette C1 Build..........McLaren M1A Build..........Maserati 300S Build..........Allard J2 Build..........50's Diner..........Iso Griffo A3C

 

3D Printed Adjustable Chassis..........3D Print Projects

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Was actually meaning the canam pod and axle assembly, it looks the biz

 

The rear motor bracket on that car is a part available from Professor Motor here in the states. Forged Brass, very strong, I use them in all my 1/24 high performance inline cars as well.

 

https://www.professormotor.com/scratch-building-p/pmtr1006.htm

 

Hope that helps!

 

Zack

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Hi Zac. Great work there. Like SlotsNZ said the parts lists are really great. Often a bit of a lottery what to use when you get down to 1000ths of an inch. I tend to just use thinner or thicker stuff but actual sizes help when ordering.

 

Do not want to be too critical but appears you either need better flux or perhaps a hotter iron for your soldering. Some but not all your joints do not appear to have flowed quite correctly. Perhaps more cosmetic than strength wise but if it looks good usually it is good. If you have had no problems with joints breaking please ignore. Some of the Tasman Cup builders have produced absolutely beautiful and very detailed models. Look at some of the old posts. Your models are well on the way. Just wish some of my efforts were as good.

 

Love your work. See you have narrowed tread on Alfa rear tyres to a more prototypical width. Many vintage proxies limit the width of tyres you are allowed to use in the interests of authenticity and scale. For example Tasman Cup and VRAA F1 GP events to 7.25mm and others at 8mm - Bugeye Sprint Proxy.

 

Keep up the good work. Keep well and safe in these trying times. My enthusiasm goes up and down a bit but I have competed into up to a dozen proxies some years. It is great fun.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton (charlesx)

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Hi Zac. Great work there. Like SlotsNZ said the parts lists are really great. Often a bit of a lottery what to use when you get down to 1000ths of an inch. I tend to just use thinner or thicker stuff but actual sizes help when ordering.

 

Do not want to be too critical but appears you either need better flux or perhaps a hotter iron for your soldering. Some but not all your joints do not appear to have flowed quite correctly. Perhaps more cosmetic than strength wise but if it looks good usually it is good. If you have had no problems with joints breaking please ignore. Some of the Tasman Cup builders have produced absolutely beautiful and very detailed models. Look at some of the old posts. Your models are well on the way. Just wish some of my efforts were as good.

 

Love your work. See you have narrowed tread on Alfa rear tyres to a more prototypical width. Many vintage proxies limit the width of tyres you are allowed to use in the interests of authenticity and scale. For example Tasman Cup and VRAA F1 GP events to 7.25mm and others at 8mm - Bugeye Sprint Proxy.

 

Keep up the good work. Keep well and safe in these trying times. My enthusiasm goes up and down a bit but I have competed into up to a dozen proxies some years. It is great fun.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton (charlesx)

 

You are correct on the flow on some of the joints. I make sure the most critical ones are very good, but sometimes don't spend as much time making the pan connections etc 100% perfect. So far to date...no breakage has been reported. They are strong, just as you said not as good looking.

 

You are correct I narrowed the tread to the allowed 10mm total width (sidewall to sidewall) on this car to comply with the rules. It has plenty of grip as it is.

 

Zack

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For only a year and half into slots and already building your own chassis I say well done. I have built a few but my soldering skills leave much to be desired. Thus I try to find a 3D chassis and or HRS2.

 

Maybe I need to buy a new iron.

Edited by ArroldN

MOPAR or NOCAR YES IT'S A HEMI

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A little more progress on the Ferrari last night.

 

First laps around the track with it after getting the tires trued down. Runs pretty well so far.

 

I had some light rubbing in the back, so I ended up doing some sanding back there to increase the tire clearance slightly. I am now on to the modeling portion, my weakest link. So this may be the last time it looks proper!

 

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You can also tell from the pics I have a Border Collie and a Aussie Shepard at home..... :rolleyes:

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Hi Zack.

 

Would never have guessed re dogs but I only love other peoples.

 

Love that Ferrari. Note the 312 running gear. Looks like you have thrashed around track a bit but driver needed a loo stop. Hope he made it in time.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton (charlesx)

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Hi Zack. Who made the Ferrari body? Would love one of those. Regards Chas Le Breton (charlesx).

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Well I got to "finish" both of these car this weekend with all my free time at home.

 

I ended up having pretty poor interior clearance on the Ferrari, so I went with a FLAT6 motor that actually works well in the car given its weight. I plan on changing out the interior once my new order of figures shows up.

 

The Alfa is a little more rough and tumble, but for a proxy car it looks decent.

 

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Zack

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Lovely work Zak,

 

Especially like the chassis work

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Hi Zack. Do you make the bodies yourself? Very nice and well enhanced with paint and decorating skills.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton (charlesx)

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Hi Zack. Do you make the bodies yourself? Very nice and well enhanced with paint and decorating skills.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton (charlesx)

 

No I am not that talented. The Ferrari is a Protoslot from over 10 years ago, and the Alfa romeo is a Fly body.

 

The paint turned out well for being in my cold garage, I just make sure to get the cans nice and warm. I did some wet sanding on the Alfa before decals and clear, and probably going have done more. Eventually I decided it was good enough for a proxy racer!

 

Zack

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To join the chorus of the others- more info one that lovely Ferrari body, please!

 

Those two cars look fantastic. Very professional finish on them. Thanks for sharing and thanks for the effort of sharing the chassis info too.

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