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Peter Gunn

Rubbering Your Weapon

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Or what tyres are you using on your weapon, over the years this has been a minefield of information , some not bad, some bloody useless and some actually is good advice.

So let's start with the obvious, the track your racing on , from a personal view , as i don't have slot car will travel anymore , my main track is my 2 lane Carrera in the garage had this for years now and been a very good track it,s around 55 feet long , which i keep fairly clean , do like a bit of rubber laid down on it.

I use mainly on what i call my club cars ( the one's i use the most ) urethane be it MJK's which i can't get that easy anymore , PG's which i suppose is my main Tyre , Wasps something new over here and Yellowdogs i have to import from USA.

i like urethane's easy to fit on the wheels , most are round to start with save gluing and truing here, give me good grip and performance and fairly cheap to buy, i also use them on the WRP , IPS proxies and last time the slot car illustrated saloon proxy was on , and they gave out consistent results.

Turning to rubber, like us all i suppose i started of with slot it , mainly as they came on the car and they were fairly good , some not as round as others and some didn't wear as well thinking of the F range here , but for a general purpose tyre were ok, but for my track i gradually replaced them with the urethane one's , reason above .

Now i never used NSR until i bought a P68 and it didn't go that well and on examining the tyre found a dirty great molding mark on the edge which i trued of also these tyres were not as round so on the razor they went and first time out i ruined the tyre, good learning curve, bought spares and found the same thing.

One thing i did notice was once you got them right they were better performing tyres than slot it , and as i was starting to do proxies like the Group 5 and ATCC where the tyre of choice seemed to be NSR i started using them more , and spending more time to get them right, did have a problem with a few splitting across the seam though.

So basically i use two types of tyres , urethane and NSR, don't own a slot it at all now , so let's hear what you use and why as i think what rubber is on your weapon is really important.

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mainly MJK or PGT or XPG on the majority of cars, NSR on proxy cars, as most of them specify rubber tyres, still working out how to get them trued correctly.

have a couple of cars shod with N22 slot its and a couple with SW hi grips, still sorting them

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Pepsi62 If you really want to compete at a higher level with those that do true and glue , you have to have the right equipment , i think you will find on here many have a tyre truer which they use to true tyres up i have a tyre razor.

Now urethane's are quite easy to true and actually they are not far of at all from being round to start with, but slot it and especially NSR take a bit of time and patience to get them right , be prepared to bin a couple of tyres in the process , i did when i first tried doing these tyres.

The knack is slow, slow , slow , don't apply to much pressure to the tyre , they will heat up and go sticky and bobble , you need some liquid in a little container to just use to keep the tyres from doing this especially NSR ultras right pain in the A they can be, people on here use different tyre preps i,m sure some will post on here , my tyres are mainly prepped for plastic, again there are many on here who prep for wood tracks, hopefully they will post with their suggestions.

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My secret to nsr tyres is baby powder while I true the tyres.....

A little on the tyre and you can spin the tyres faster without melting them....takes me an hour or so to completely true nsr tyres....

Edited by GAS41T

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Have used baby powder Gas, agree with you about the time factor , takes a fair bit of time to get them right , have a couple of sets of Nick's super tyres urethane Yellowdogs on a couple of my NSR cars for testing and so far running on wood against NSR,s with no goop on them , nothing in it , advantage to me i can true and glue them in 5 minutes as they need little done to them and they have a machined outer edge already so i don't have to grind a round on the outside edge of the tyre.

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I true everything without needing any liquids or talcum powder - Comes down to right voltage for the lathe you have, and using low loading as was said above.

Having a digital readout to 2 decimal places of current draw is really helpful.

 

As Keith said, 5 - 10 minutes will sort most urethanes, they are dead easy to true.

You probably need 15 - 30 minutes per tyre for the soft rubbers from NSR< Slot.it, Thunderslot, Sideways etc

- And at least half an hour is you are doing "pairs"of them on the car axle with an Area3/Professor Motor/Tyre Razor/RSM3 type of lathe


Walks upright Unaided  *  Ties Own Shoelaces  *  Can Mispronounce Own Name In Five Languages  *  Mostly Aims Rattle Cans Away from Self
 My Track Oakland Raceway V2     Our Club  HMBRC     

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Have used baby powder Gas, agree with you about the time factor , takes a fair bit of time to get them right , have a couple of sets of Nick's super tyres urethane Yellowdogs on a couple of my NSR cars for testing and so far running on wood against NSR,s with no goop on them , nothing in it , advantage to me i can true and glue them in 5 minutes as they need little done to them and they have a machined outer edge already so i don't have to grind a round on the outside edge of the tyre.

I ran yellow dogs on my touring car the best eurathane on the market imo....

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I true everything without needing any liquids or talcum powder - Comes down to right voltage for the lathe you have, and using low loading as was said above.

Having a digital readout to 2 decimal places of current draw is really helpful.

As Keith said, 5 - 10 minutes will sort most urethanes, they are dead easy to true.

You probably need 15 - 30 minutes per tyre for the soft rubbers from NSR< Slot.it, Thunderslot, Sideways etc

- And at least half an hour is you are doing "pairs"of them on the car axle with an Area3/Professor Motor/Tyre Razor/RSM3 type of lathe

You just have to much time mark....I build my cars as fast as I can as I have no time like you older gentleman....

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I true everything without needing any liquids or talcum powder - Comes down to right voltage for the lathe you have, and using low loading as was said above.

Having a digital readout to 2 decimal places of current draw is really helpful.

As Keith said, 5 - 10 minutes will sort most urethanes, they are dead easy to true.

You probably need 15 - 30 minutes per tyre for the soft rubbers from NSR< Slot.it, Thunderslot, Sideways etc

- And at least half an hour is you are doing "pairs" of them on the car axle with an Area3/Professor Motor/Tyre Razor/RSM3 type of lathe

You just have to much time mark....I build my cars as fast as I can as I have no time like you older gentleman....

 

Oh believe me, I don't hover around waiting for roundly-goodness to happen. I will be at the PC working, doing another job in the garage/shop/track, inspecting the most recent vintage to reach glass bottle status, carefully inspecting..... ; watching TV and wandering out each ad break to tweak the adjustment on the lathe. REALLY carefully inspecting....


Walks upright Unaided  *  Ties Own Shoelaces  *  Can Mispronounce Own Name In Five Languages  *  Mostly Aims Rattle Cans Away from Self
 My Track Oakland Raceway V2     Our Club  HMBRC     

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I'd like to see MJK supply a softer urethane compound option to work better on the double shoulder air rims and offer better grip overall. Even if it was only to suit the Slot It double shoulder rim size - MJK tyre code is MJK4213

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