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Really Getting The Itch To But Some Wood..


gref

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Really getting the itch to have a crack at routing my first wood track, but I'm unsure of what sort of router is good/bad? Or will any router do what I need? What size "bits" do I need etc. I've seen the lexan strip thing on oldslotracer and wonder what it would be called out here? Or what similar would work?

 

I'd need a jigsaw and router...is that all? I think from what I've read common size MDF used is 9mm?

 

Got some ideas in my head (plenty of time to think at work) and would like to have a go at trying them out.

 

Then I guess the next thing would be power etc. I'd like to lay "magnetic braid" so then any cars could be run on the track (magnet/non-magnet etc) and how do you power a wood track? Is magnetic braid available out here? Or what else would work with magnets?

 

I think the best thing for me to do is wait til I win tattslotto then hire someone to gimme a hand, also hire a computer techie and electrician to help me out with my ideas - lots of moving parts ideas and a start grid idea I haven't seen anywhere else :lol:

 

Any suggestions?

Edited by gref

2 x australian ego champion

 

regards

Shane

 

 

Fulel racing in first track build --> https://youtu.be/nG1EyFkbJSs

 

 

 

My second track build --> 

raceday - https://youtu.be/8WXYQ528iKM

 

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Gref, there's a site here with more moments of inspiration than any one human being can take in in one go.

 

He's based in Canada, but Luf does a video on now to go about it and sells a bendy lexan strip to use for routing the curves..

 

I'm thinking of getting one myself..

Captain's log: We are enroute to some planet whose name I cannot pronounce to do something really complicated that I don't understand.

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thanks mate, yeah I've read up on all Luf's stuff, got nearly all his "vids" on my hard drive, but was just wondering if there's anything "local" available that will do the job?

2 x australian ego champion

 

regards

Shane

 

 

Fulel racing in first track build --> https://youtu.be/nG1EyFkbJSs

 

 

 

My second track build --> 

raceday - https://youtu.be/8WXYQ528iKM

 

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Heyo,

 

Its really not as hard as it seems, probably the hardest part (for me atleast) is finding the time to do it. for my first track i'm building a 3laner with elevations on a 3.8 x 1.8m base.

 

tools: i use a router i bought from super cheap for about $90 a few years ago, i'm sure they are cheaper now, but i got a good quality bit, 4mm that cost me $27. i use a bosch jigsaw that i bought at an auction 2nd hand for $20, with a good blade (so you have nice clean cuts) i also use a power drill for holes and screws.

 

lexan strip: i used a 12mm x 12mm x 2400mm piece of polypropelene. i bought it at the hardware for about $7 and drilled holes in it every 100mm and put nails in it. its in the conices (?) and moulding section.

 

crazy/unusal ideas: theres a lot of skilled and talented people here, just tell us the kind of thing u want to do and i'm sure someone here will be able to offer some ideas, for free! :lol:

 

braid: i went with copper tape (like most ppl on www.oldslotracer.com) its cheaper, easier to lay (since its already sticky backed) easier to build the track for since you dont need to recess it, you can solder to it, only down side is its non-magentic, i think the price different makes up for it though. if you d go with magnetic braid, remember to stick it down really well as the cars' magnets will be trying to pull it up off the track.

 

what i would do different for my first slot car track: make a smaller one, so it doesn't take as long to build. :lol:

 

have a look at my

my building log i've tried to explain how and why i've done most things.

 

Hope this helps a bit

cya

Rene.

An unmodified car is like a blank sheet of paper, aching to be drawn on.

 

Ren's 3 lane routed track with analogue pits and 2 car sudden death.

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Then I guess the next thing would be power etc. I'd like to lay "magnetic braid" so then any cars could be run on the track (magnet/non-magnet etc) and how do you power a wood track? Is magnetic braid available out here? Or what else would work with magnets?

I've always wanted to build variable downforce into a track, today's magnets are way too strong IMO, so putting the metal under the track should still give plenty of grip.

 

My idea is to use copper braid, with steel rails routed in from underneath. In a real car, you get more downforce at speed, so I would route the steel rail closer to the surface in high speed sections and no use it at all in really slow areas. This would give us 'live' downforce just like a real car.

 

Haven't tried it, but I think it's brilliant :lol:

32nd Reich - For all models 1/32 - Back On-line.
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I've also got this on a couple of other forums and here's 1 reply I got:

 

Mag/No Mag Track

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

I am going to try something fun: I'm gonna run a 1/16" groove, lay some 1/16" galv, steel cable in there and cover the sucker with tape. That provides mag capability and tape.

 

I've got it on my prototype and it seems to work pretty darn good. If you are really creative, you might lay the wire in there so that it just peaks above the surface and not need tape at all. If a person was joining more than one table then one would only need a little bit of thin steel to jam under the galv wire and bend over the edge of the track to make contact with the next section of rail.

 

With mine, the friction from the braided galv wears through my braid if the car is too stuck down OR the wire is too high above the track surface...

2 x australian ego champion

 

regards

Shane

 

 

Fulel racing in first track build --> https://youtu.be/nG1EyFkbJSs

 

 

 

My second track build --> 

raceday - https://youtu.be/8WXYQ528iKM

 

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gref: The slot should be 1/8 wide (3mm) bit is best the 4mm slot is a bit too wide. The best MDF is 12mm so that you can route the slot deep enought for the commercial and Carrera guides. The 9mm will not allow for the deeper slot with out bracing under the track. Your option of running wire under the tape is a good idea and although more work it should be cheaper than the steel braid.

 

Mig wire can be used I ahve seen HO tracks using it.

 

Phil

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Have a look at Kym and Jordans track. ( Valley Raceway )

I love that track if only I had the room :)

 

I first saw it when I checked out the link you posted hoffy and fell in loooove :D

 

The scenery looks great and the layout looks nice and flowing

 

Must be fun to race on H'mmm wonder if Virgin or Jetstar have any $40 flights going :)

 

They dont give any detail about the magnetic rails also do you know what type of surface it is

Keep it in the groove

Pete

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Went down to Mire 10 yesterday to checkout some costs....... :) This is gonna be an expensive project! I don't have a router or jigsaw, so they will come first, then all the "bits" I need, then MDF (which aint cheap). I asked about polypropelene, but they had no idea what it was, so I"ll check out bunnings today.

2 x australian ego champion

 

regards

Shane

 

 

Fulel racing in first track build --> https://youtu.be/nG1EyFkbJSs

 

 

 

My second track build --> 

raceday - https://youtu.be/8WXYQ528iKM

 

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I was looking at some of the routed tracks featured on the Archer Raceway site and one of them was painted with a metalic paint which magnets could stick to - maybe this would be a cheaper option. The magnetic effect wasn't as strong as steel rails but you still have the magnets working no matter how far your car slides.

May the downforce be with you.

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Have a look at Kym and Jordans track. ( Valley Raceway )

I love that track if only I had the room :)

 

I first saw it when I checked out the link you posted hoffy and fell in loooove :D

 

The scenery looks great and the layout looks nice and flowing

 

Must be fun to race on H'mmm wonder if Virgin or Jetstar have any $40 flights going :)

 

They dont give any detail about the magnetic rails also do you know what type of surface it is

OK, the metal on the corners was actually done by the previous owner of the track. As we don't run magnets as a general rule, I suppose this is why the don't mention it. Just makes an interesting nights racing, when some of the slower guys all of a sudden find them selves at the front!!!!

 

If you look at some of the closeup foto's, you can see the strips on the corners.

 

The paint is the ol' faithful Ferrador.

south_1.jpg

Catchfence.jpg

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Hi Gref,

 

I can't recall which part of Aus your in, but I just have a couple of questions. Have you driven on wood before (So you know its what you want) and secondly, if so, was it local to you ? so someone nearby might have the tools and knowledge to help already ?

 

I am going to say 'no one local' so will press on. Buying mdf and some tape is no big deal, a few bucks depending on how big you want to go but when you start getting into routers etc the costs can go up pretty quick. I paid $90 for mine and its a hobby router with a small square base. Some brands of bigger routers with bigger bases cost less (Ozito brand) was about half what I paid.

 

I too used a polypropline strip and find it excellent. I think any sort of plastic or rubber length of material with some flexibility to it with 1 smooth side would work fine.

 

As for having skills. You will learn how to use the router very quickly as there really isn't much to it. They want to wander off to the left so by using a guide and putting the router on the right hand side, you just push it forward and slightly left and the rest takes care of itself.

 

As I build my new track I am documenting the stages of its build and hopefully it might help you.

Find me at Card Guys for custom trading cards

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Hey Phoeno, yeah I raced on a wood track years ago, there used to be a big race way here in Ballarat, but one day it just disappeared. The stage I'm at: I"ve done everything I can with plastic track. My current track is a massive 46 odd metres long. Has every/any corner you can think of, big straight etc etc. I feel now is a good time to start experimenting with wood. I have a lot of good (I think they're good anyway :) ) ideas, and I can never do what I want unless I go digital and then theres some things digital won't do either.

 

Just out of interest, can you let me know how many different size MDF sheets you use/used? I will probably start off with a 2400x1200 sheet (of maybe 12mm) and design my pits/start grid and a few other ideas.

 

Can't wait to get into it :blink:

2 x australian ego champion

 

regards

Shane

 

 

Fulel racing in first track build --> https://youtu.be/nG1EyFkbJSs

 

 

 

My second track build --> 

raceday - https://youtu.be/8WXYQ528iKM

 

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Hey Gref,

Don't underestimate your costs.

Mind you, if done properly you will end up with a track that will still be going in 30 yrs time. Consider a 100mm lane width so in future you can run both scales of cars.

Also take a look at the BSCRA british slot car racing site. Top tips there too, particularly if you want to mess with symmetrically banked curves.

Cost is easier to justify if you have a woodworking 'bent' ie build stuff for around the house, do maintenance for the missus etc.

Lots of cheap routers out there, can't comment on them, but the grandaddy workhorse of them all is the Makita router with a 1/2" chuck. Cost? Hundreds. Will outlive you if you don't leave it out in the rain. Ditto with Hitachi 235mm circular saws.

Router bit? Route the slot and the braid recess in one hit, do 3 passes only. Custom made by Carbitool at around $185. 3mm single flute tungsten bit 9mm long brazed into a hole milled in the centre of a 12mm twin fluted tungsten bit.

Ask them for a router bit for slot car tracks, they should have it on computer file already.

As an aside, as heaps of you blokes are near each other, I'm surprised someone hasn't come up with a 'group buy' bit; 6 blokes put in 30 bucks and share a bit that wil last dozens of track builds. Just a thought.

MDF? go 16mm if you can, 1200X2400 sheets. I used a dozen on my layout, try for some bulk buy discount. It often is cheaper in hardware stores than 12mm as it is a more popular size for contemporary furniture construction etc.

I've actually routed a four lane curve on a 12mm sheet and it eventually warped convex because of the 9mm slot depth took the rigid strength out of it.

Flamesuit on at this next point. Forget about copper tape. Its crap and doesn't last, particularly at 1/24th scale. And no, no apologies to those who use it. You are just fooling yourselves. Recess your braid properly and enjoy superior racing and longevity. Forget about magnet racing - it's for the faries. Seig heil to the slot-nazi.....

As we all know, Hartland cables is Australia's main supplier of braid, but word has it that they now only offer it in minimum 500 metre lengths. Mobile raceways in Vic might do you smaller lengths, rumour also has it that some of Hoffy's mates sell it in shorter lengths too?

Consider splashing out on a regulated variable power supply like the ones Jaycar sell. I use one thats, 0 to 18 volt adjustable, 40 amps continual output, digital readout etc etc blah blah. Costs about $300 bucks but I'd keep it if I sold my track - it's that good.

Take your time, take lots of photos, and don't sniff too much of the braid glue if you have to drive somewhere afterwards....

Jeez it's been a while since I've had a rant on this forum.

Cheers!

:):blink::P;)

http://www.users.bigpond.com/garang/

 

The Best Damn Brewery in Australia. The Best Damn Brewers too.

And they drive some pretty mean slotcars...

The Steam Exchange Brewery

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Gref, slot depth is about 6 or 7mm, I just poked the bit out of the base further than a guide sticks out of a chassis.

 

When it comes to mdf thickness, theres nothing to say you couldn't use 3mm if you had enough support for it. Just rout it right through and have a bottomless slot.

 

:blink::):):):P:);)

Find me at Card Guys for custom trading cards

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Now you've got me channeling "Air Supply" (I think)

 

"How deep is your slot?

 

My slot's not too deep baby

wide enough for car-ar-a

get those le mans babies over here

'cause they're flying high in the groov-ed place

Over the bridge.. and we'll never see their likes again"I]

 

Best i stop now - where's them Dried Frog Pills?? :blink:

Captain's log: We are enroute to some planet whose name I cannot pronounce to do something really complicated that I don't understand.

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