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Race Coordinator, Arduino And Relays


tsmsoccer

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Just hoping someone has a better memory than me.

I previously had my Zumi relay

 

post-40-0-43298700-1564792604_thumb.jpg

connected using Race Cordinator as my software and my UNO Arduino

 

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as the communication hardware.

 

I replaced my track and while my Arduino board is working fine I cannot remember the pin connections from the board to the relay.

I seem to remember using pins 8 and 9 on the digital side of the board and the VIN pin next to the ground pins on the power side of the board.

What I cannot remember is where they connect on the relay. I know one of the pins connects to the positive input on the relay and the other two connect to the positive and negative on the output side of the relay but witch pin connects to witch

 

Any help would be appreciated

 

Tks

Charlie

post-40-0-43298700-1564792604_thumb.jpg

post-40-0-75664500-1564792644_thumb.jpg

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Sorry Charlie can't help you there, was never allowed to play with the Arduino, apparently it upset too many people, still use the 25 pin printer port setup and have never had a problem, most of the things you need are all incorporated in in the RC setup.

 

Oh and you need to pay $600, by the looks of it, to photobucket to get pictures on here.

Quickly read this post before it is deleted or i turn grey again

Gary

http://www.facebook.com/Rallyproxy2017

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Hi Gaz

I actually preferred using the printer port however as you know the newer laptops have done away with printer ports so you have to use USB's. I had it all working fine with the old track however when I pulled it all apart did not bother to document the wiring. I used all new wiring on the new track and managed to get everything else including the Arduino board for timing working but cant seem to sort out integrating the relay.

Hopefully pics are working now do not use ripoffbucket

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  • 2 weeks later...

I prefer phidget ,it uses usb connection with it's own inbuilt driver so no driver issues that Arduino have,

Works with it,phototropic, and Lee type sensors can power up to 6 relays also has no blast relays problems likes some Arduino do

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Every Ardunio i have had has turned out NFG, every time you switch it on it comes back and says it needs drivers installed even though you have every friggin driver that is out there, even had experts look at it and put it in the "too hard" basket.

 

Luckily i have salvaged half a dozen or so towers and laptops with the ever reliable 25 pin printer port, so should be good for a few years.

Quickly read this post before it is deleted or i turn grey again

Gary

http://www.facebook.com/Rallyproxy2017

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Which is more expensive 4 uno board at $40 plus 2 mega boards at $45 each or a phidget board and case for $100

I have also had a uno board wipe out the drivers for the usb port on my Lenovo g50 that cost me $700 as well as nearly taking out a CLUB computer.

Dubbo slot car CLUB had problems with blast relays triggering timing until I replaced the uno board with phidget board everything else stayed the same and problem gone.

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Ok - can anyone point me to a diagram or a photo or list or a website of what I would need to buy to setup a phidget or an Arduino timing system

 

computer on a mate's timing system failed - the hunt for a PC with a parallel port was eventually fruitful but we went through a number of machines before we got one working so figure it is time to look to a better system

 

thanks

David

Edited by dangermouse
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You need I relay per lane,1 sensor per lane Jaycar part no zd1950 and a light bridge,.

The light bridge runs off the power supply the relay plug into the out put setting and the sensors plug into the input settings on a phidget board, I have the phidget board diagram if you want it emailed

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Every Ardunio i have had has turned out NFG, every time you switch it on it comes back and says it needs drivers installed even though you have every friggin driver that is out there, even had experts look at it and put it in the "too hard" basket.

 

Luckily i have salvaged half a dozen or so towers and laptops with the ever reliable 25 pin printer port, so should be good for a few years.

 

I don't blame you for not liking Arduinos based on your experience, however I've had a great run over the last ~10years, only blew one up and tripped the USB port power protection on my surface 3 when using an unregulated 12v power supply.

 

I've had a phidget board crash while using the same unreg power supply. I don't use the phidget any more.

www.sydneyslotcars.com

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Well it has been two steps forward and unfortunately one step back.

I found the original relay was faulty so I purchased another.

When I installed the new relay I now get 4.9 volts from the Ardunio board to the Trigger signal on the relay board.

The signal from Ardunio now successfully trips the relay however the relay will trip itself back off after 3 seconds.

It does this every time the relay trips on when it receives the signal from Ardunio however it trips itself off after 3 seconds

 

The Ardunio board still continues to supply 4.9 volts to the relay however the relay does not trip back on.

If I go to Race Co Ordinator and turn tack power off and then on again the relay will trip back on again but again only for a few seconds before it trips back off.

 

Anyone have any ideas

 

Thanks

Charlie

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Hi fomoco

It is on the digital side

I found the problem i bought a Chinese relay and it came with no instructions. The relay actually has an inbuilt delay option which you can enable or disable by soldering connections between various pins. Once I worked out which soldered joints to disconnect I was able to switch off the delay option which resolved the problem.

 

 

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Now that I have the new relay working with Arduino I thought I would post a picture showing how I wired the relay

 

post-40-0-23960100-1566465232_thumb.jpg

1. Into the blue terminal block I ran the two wires from the Arduino board using data cable. I used a spare pin on the digital side of Arduino board and the Ground pin on the power side of the Arduino board. This then forms the relay trigger which Race Co Ordinator through the Arduino board controls,

 

2. Into the Blue Block I ran the positive and negative from the 12 volt power supply.

 

3. I jumpered the power from the green block and ran the negative directly to the negative power for the track. The positive runs to the port labeled COM. Then you run a wire from either the NO or NC port depending on if you want the relay on or off to the positive on the track.

 

Hope it helps

 

Charlie

post-40-0-23960100-1566465232_thumb.jpg

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