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Sideways Huracan - Basic Setup

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The Sideways Huracan has been out for a few months, and now that I have Oakland Raceway set up again, I am able to easily do car tech articles.

This is the 6th model in the past year, and the first car I have seen of any brand with a full metallic paint job.

huracan1.jpg

 

Yes it really does look metallic. Trying to get a track picture without light flares was difficult. The tampo quality is excellent.

Opening the car up, you see the new 5 point pod which will also be used for all their GT3 models to follow, and the “Baby Raptor” FK-180 motor, which

has specifications suspiciously similar to the NSR “Baby King”.

 

This is the "standard" pod, which I found quite stiff, about th same as the "hard"black pod they brought out for the Group 5 cars. There is a new red

coloured pod out for these as there is for the Group 5 cars, which they describe as their "hard" pod, but which I would call "Extra hard"

I have zero, zippa, nada tramp and hop, with good grip. I don't see any need to change pod.

motorpower2.jpg

 

At 17,000 RPM and 245 g/cm of torque, it is developing just over 10 watts power, slightly more than a Slot.it MX16 in their Group C and 65 – 80 sports

ranges, and mid range among some other common motors. The Black “Carbon” Huracan has the full Raptor motor developing a whopping 18.7 watts

huracan4.jpg

 

Opening it up you see double shouldered Alloy rears of 17 x 10mm, and front plastic hubs 8mm wide. I have replaced the braids with a softer one, as what

they use on plastic tracks for durability, can cause the front end to sit up a bit. Nice flexible guide wire with a lot of conductor diameter for minimizing any

voltage drop. Set in with eyelets that sit tightly. There are decals in the box for decorating the tyres, and some small parts for the chassis. It has grub

screw height adjustment for the front axle – from memory the undersides were in place, but I needed a couple of 3mm M2 screws from my war chest to

limit the run from the top.

huracan5.jpg

The stock front tyres are a nice hard A-shore 70, ideal for glue, true and a coating of nail varnish or superglue if you wish – I haven’t bothered. They are

plenty hard enough to not create significant drag.

Rear tyres are Pro-speed medium 22 shore. For wood track we would usually run 18 or 22 shore, so I stuck with these. Be aware they are a total pig to

true on the lathe, they will overheat and ball if you go too quickly.

 

As is always the case with angle-winders and a rear end heavy from the FK180 boxer motor, they are tail happy, so I set about adding weight at the front,

to get it closer to that old 40/60 formula that is still a good start point.

huracan3.jpg

I started with the 4 grams wrapped around the guide and ran it like that for a few days. It felt planted, but I felt it was still too tail heavy. So I added the two

strips either side, which each weigh about 3.5 grams. All up the rolling chassis is now about 73 grams.

Body on it comes to 94 grams.

huracan2.jpg

Sideways are assembling these on site in France, the components appear to come from a mixture of sources. - And No, Chris hasn’t said where.

 

It is a very easy drive. Being so wide, low and quite heavy compared to smaller cars like a Group C or stock ScaleAuto and NSR GT3 models, it is highly

predictable, but not super fast in a straight line. For larger tracks you may want to up the donkey to a 19 or 21k boxer.

 

As I say, a basic setup, and using the original tyres front and back. The Prospeed medium on the rear is 22 shore, the same rating as Slot.it N22. or NSR

Supergrip Of the three it is the hardest to true without overheating the tyre. Many will want to swap the tyres out for the go-to rubber on their tracks, but

for the budget conscious, the original can be trued up, and will give decent grip on smooth wood surfaces.

 

The fronts are a new formula hard 70 shore, and true up fairly easily. I haven't coated them. At that hardness they work well, and are still quiet.

For those not familiar - Coating front tyres to reduce grab and drag with superglue and a polish is common, but I don't think necessary on this compound.

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Walks upright Unaided  *  Ties Own Shoelaces  *  Can Mispronounce Own Name In Five Languages  *  Mostly Aims Rattle Cans Away from Self
 My Track Oakland Raceway V2     Our Club  HMBRC     

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One motor screw - feels firm.

Sideways are only making angle-winder pods.

So for the GT3 that is the only motor config available.

 

For Group 5 the obvious swap out to sidewinder is Slot.it pod.

Yeah Gasser, I'm a sidewinder lover too. I'd like to see what one felt like in SW setup. - But they feel very planted at least with the 17k motor which is Flat-6, MX16 or Shark22 in power.

I seem to recall Millings had one at the Nationals with the 21k donkey in it, and that was going pretty well, but not the fastest boat in the shed.

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Walks upright Unaided  *  Ties Own Shoelaces  *  Can Mispronounce Own Name In Five Languages  *  Mostly Aims Rattle Cans Away from Self
 My Track Oakland Raceway V2     Our Club  HMBRC     

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Have upgraded to a sidewinder 25k motor. A lot quicker and easier to drive.

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2019 NZ RTR Nationals Gt 3rd

2017 NZ RTR Nationals NSR Classic 2nd

2017 NZ RTR Nationals Group C 3rd

2017 NSR Classic Challenge 3rd

2015 NSR Classic Challenge 2nd

2014 NSR Classic Challenge 3rd

2015 Garden City Invitation Overall Champion

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What pod have you fitted to it Mark?


Walks upright Unaided  *  Ties Own Shoelaces  *  Can Mispronounce Own Name In Five Languages  *  Mostly Aims Rattle Cans Away from Self
 My Track Oakland Raceway V2     Our Club  HMBRC     

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A slot it one i had lying around.

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2019 NZ RTR Nationals Gt 3rd

2017 NZ RTR Nationals NSR Classic 2nd

2017 NZ RTR Nationals Group C 3rd

2017 NSR Classic Challenge 3rd

2015 NSR Classic Challenge 2nd

2014 NSR Classic Challenge 3rd

2015 Garden City Invitation Overall Champion

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I like the Sideways braid, hard wearing, tightly knit, but not too stiff or thick. Can't find it in any stores though. Any ideas Mark?

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One of the forum sponsors is bound to have it - holler if you get stuck, I'll give you a link


Walks upright Unaided  *  Ties Own Shoelaces  *  Can Mispronounce Own Name In Five Languages  *  Mostly Aims Rattle Cans Away from Self
 My Track Oakland Raceway V2     Our Club  HMBRC     

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I just got my Sideways Lambo Huracan up and running. Felt very smooth and easy to drive.

 

Following this thread.

 

Any plans for going deeper guide ?

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Hi r377 - I hadn't considered it, as I haven't had any front end de-slots due to the front lifting - and with the standard donkey, it isn't a high powered car.

Maybe if I was on one of the other tracks in our club, and had a full power 16 - 21 watt boxer motor, .... but then I always say you should have you braid set flat, and enough front end weight for it to lose/moderate power delivery if it WAS going to lift.

However our GT3 class at club also has a motor power limit, which is basically about 11 watts when you look across all the approved motors, so I have no need to change for local racing anyway.

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Walks upright Unaided  *  Ties Own Shoelaces  *  Can Mispronounce Own Name In Five Languages  *  Mostly Aims Rattle Cans Away from Self
 My Track Oakland Raceway V2     Our Club  HMBRC     

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I got the Sideways Vodafone Lamborghini Huracan. Bit of weight in the pod and under the front axle and went really well. A joy to drive, nice and smooth. On a medium sized wood track it ran the same times as our 2 NSR AW corvettes.

 

I liked i so much i decided to get another one and did a swap deal for a Carbon Lamborghini Huracan with a 25k Shark SW as I heard these are quite popular in NZ. Not handling heaps well, bit taily and unstable. Any ideas ?

 

Got a bit of weight under the front axle. In the slot it pod, I have one layer on weight with a second layer just under half the length of pod and a bit vertical up the motor. Total weight is 95g. It orig had the body screws quite loose and only one layer on lead in the pod. It was not good to drive and was lifting a rear wheel, so I tightened the screws and put that second layer of weight in. It handles better but still nowhere near as good as my standard one.

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I would just be trying to emulate the weight per wheel of the stock car - but i would be running it with loose pod screws - about 1 turn, and I have thew underside of the pod taped with fibreglass tape to dampen the movement

It may just need more weight at back to stabilise it - always a hard call unless you see it actually running.

 

But maybe branco will chime in, he's a right clever beggar, and his one was running very well at the Nationals last year against all the usual suspects

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Walks upright Unaided  *  Ties Own Shoelaces  *  Can Mispronounce Own Name In Five Languages  *  Mostly Aims Rattle Cans Away from Self
 My Track Oakland Raceway V2     Our Club  HMBRC     

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It’s balance, keep putting weight at the rear and it won’t fix it put a tad more weight up front see what happens & as Mark says....

 

Rossko

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Thanks for the advice. I will try a bit more weight in the front and the tape.

 

Ive got a SW mosler which goes well. Was just comparing the 2 car specs

 

Lambo

wheel base 85

Front & rear track 64

 

Mosler

wheel base 82

Front & rear track 64

 

Mosler is a touch longer 144 vs 137

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