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Hey guys,

Recently on eBay I saw a car being advertised that had been previously raced.

The seller said he had used several different sprays on the motor, brushes,bearings and tyres.

I cant quote the listing as its now expired but it was at least 4 different sprays to utilise the car's performance.

So what is everyone using on what and where?

I use Ballistol on my tyres after I sand them but thats about it.

I've seen people mention Inox MX3 for the braids, how is that different to Ballistol, it seems the same thing.

Also some NSR spray on the motor?

Not sure how to use anything on the motor as its sealed with only one or two tiny openings.

Edited by Storm68

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I can't imagine any experienced car builder/racer here reading such blurb and being particularly impressed.

I think he was talking like a big noter.


We clean braids - that's just normal.

Very few of us racing RTR cars would flush a motor with a comms cleaner unless we recognised it wasn't performing to spec - and some of the braid cleaners will do that job nicely too.

Some of us use a tyre treatment or cleaner IF our club and class rules permit it.

Most of us get around to lubing the working surfaces from time to time.

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I recon I saw the sale.


Tis with interest I reply.


As a newby, up against seasoned pros, I needed every piece of help. Especially as I couldnt provide the hours to get track time.

Not so long ago, on here, it was like pulling teeth to get these "tricks"


So ..

Flushing a motor polishes surfaces for less friction. Most do it at lower volts in water and metho.

VooDoo drops make a marked difference to comms and brushes. problem is it "goes away" after a while. looking for an imediate edge = great.

Any lube on buses is a plus.

Tyres and treatments is the key to speed. Unfortunately its the pros that know the steps, so ull have to ask them, cause a book could be written on precedures etc for each different brand as well.

...............Take it easy

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Hey mate, wish the link was still active from eBay.

It was a Betta Electrical Ford Falcon, old Lowndes one I think.

VooDoo drops sounds familiar.

He did come across a bit of a knob as he was rattling brands and their purpose off a fair bit.

I dont know enough to say whats good or bad at this point.

Inox seems to be the go to for braids but I cant see the difference between it and Ballistol going by what it saids it does on the can.

Is there anything of note worth using to clean the track with apart from a moist cloth?

Plastic track not wood.

I know copper tape is good for conductivity but not so sure on a track cleaner.

Edited by Storm68

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From Our friend above.....




Super suprised to see this still on U tune !!!



Most commercial tracks will get angry if any fluid gets on their tracks.


Know little about spastic track, except its the best the day you bought it, cause after that the points of roughness are wearing down [become less pointy].....like sandpaper.

Rubber down,..on a track is good. Dust is not. Remove dust only.

Edited by Roger Miller

...............Take it easy

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I was told that even though WD40 is good for tyres because its petroleum based its not good for plastics.

So if you drip any or overspray and it gets onto the car body/chassis in time it can cause damage.

Thats why I went with the Ballistol, again I was told its just as good as WD-40 but without the plastic damaging issue.

I'm happy to buy some Inox for the braids but again no one seems to know the difference between it and Ballistol.

To me they appear the same so I'm not sure why I'd need 2 things the same.

Can someone explain the difference to me if there is one?

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Storm, there are a whole heap of braid cleaners on the market. Most of them still use a combination of a solvent and another petrochemical which is more a surface treatment/lubricant - something like ATF

Most of us have a few options lying around the workshop WD40, CRC226, CRC 556, other brand contact cleaners.


Then among the slot car proprietary products there is Voodoo juice, Parma braid conditioner, NSR Comm cleaner, Inox, and a whole heap more.

I have the first three above ready to hand, and I have a can of INOX somewhere in my gear packed away. No one product stands out as markedly superior to the others. Parma may not be quite as good as the others - I think it contains a higher percentage of ATF and a bit less solvent.


If you keep listening to every voice that has a special secret favourite you will just end up confused.

Any of the above will be fine for braid cleaning. Some of them are also fine for flushing the comms in a motor, such as Voodoo and the NSR cleaner. Probably others as well.


Having entered quite a few proxy races over the years, and helped host at least 60 proxy rounds, where cars receive minimal maintenance during a series which likely involves 80 minutes of race running or more - plus practice and qualifying; I can say it takes a very long time running a motor for carbon build up to noticeably affect motor performance, so I am skeptical about any performance gains from using comm drops on an already clean motor.

You MIGHT sometimes get a bit of a rush of RPM after flushing an already clean motor with them, but often it lasts as little as 5 or 10 seconds, then the motor settles back to normal rpm.


Old thread here. All points still valid


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Keep cleaning your plastic track with a damp rag.


I use WD40 on the rails to clean them.


Then apply a coat of Inox to help with conductivity and prevent corrosion, use a rag and wipe it on the rails only with your finger.


I also use WD40 to clean the plastic bodies and shine them up, haven't had one damaged yet.


I haven't used any of the fancy stuff either at home on the plastic or for my cars set up for timber track racing either.


A little oil on the bearings and maybe some Cera-grease on the gears


When I first entered into the hobby I used to wipe the tyres down with WD40 but don't bother anymore.



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