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Power Drops Out On Digital Track


shorty05

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hey there have just found this forum. have been reading a few comments can someone tell what are power taps and how do you install them and where do you get them. my track is on a 7.5 sq mtr table and has raised sections and covers most of the table. any help would be good

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Hi Shorty,

 

Welcome to the forum,

 

A power tap is simply a wire connecting one section to another on a track layout, this is done via the shortest route to reduce voltage drop.

The wire should be of reasonable size to be able to convey the current, I use 10amp automotive wire.

 

If you have a track say 20m long you would want to have a tap from the zero point to the 10m mark to ensure consistent voltage supply.

 

Have a look at my home track in the link below (note this is a one lane track)

I have placed a power tap midway between points X & B on the first diagram that connects the lane running right to its return running left.

 

To install them use whatever means practical, on a plastic track sand back the underside of the track rail and solder is probably the best go.

On my routered track I used car battery terminals with the pin end bent 90 degrees and recessed into the track with the connection tube dropped through a drilled hole with a wire soldered to it.

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I forgot to mention, if you are solder ignorant there is an easier way.

 

You can buy booster cables with clips, but it can be an expensive way to go. I thought scalextric did some but could not find.

 

http://www.armchairracer.com.au/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=booster

 

https://www.pendleslotracing.co.uk/ds-racing-carrera-booster-cable.html

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Hi Shorty, welcome! I am also a relative newcomer.

 

What type of track are you running on? For Carrera its a bit different as the rails are stainless steel so you can't solder them. The Carrera power taps are quite expensive and if you have a soldering iron and two passive crossover sections you can probably solder some flying/jumper leads from the short jumper wires at the crossover point between one section to another section for a very cheap hack. Be very careful of the polarity so you don't burn out anything. Not sure if that trick would work with any of the other makes.

 

Steve.

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Not sure if you were referring to my post, but I meant I am not sure if the crossovers of other makes have the copper flex underneath joining the lane break for the crossover.

SInce I posted that, I have realised from experience how annoying passive crossovers are! Just disruptive to the driving flow of a circuit in my view. (no, not the current flow :P )

Edited by Slotspeed
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