Table Design And Construction

[Johnno]

Completely new to slot cars and table design and construction and materials recommended. This plastic track (Scalextric ARC ONE Pro Platinum C1374) will be setup and left setup as permanent, as for scenery well I thought so but for now I want to concentrate on the track and the table.

 

Trying to work out what timber and materials I should use to construct the table. MDF or Ply? Thickness?

 

I have uploaded some images of the Ply which I think would be better than MDF as it doesn't fall apart. Just unsure about the thickness of the base board, e.g. 9mm, 12mm, 19mm etc.

 

Not all ply is the same, as you can see in the images provided there is one that has large knots which I don't think will be sufficient for use, I could be wrong on this though.

 

I also am looking at the saw horse/s to mount the table on. Hopefully someone can provide me some direction with this.

 

Thanks

Johnno

 

P.S. A quick check on Bunnings.com.au for these items locates the following (included are the url's for the items):

 

 

Project Panel 900 x 600 x 9mm Premium Grade Radiata Plywood

https://www.bunnings...lywood_p0390147

 

Project Panel 1200 x 600 x 9mm Premium Grade Radiata Plywood

https://www.bunnings...lywood_p0390148

 

Project Panel 1200 x 900 x 7mm Premium Grade Radiata Plywood

https://www.bunnings...lywood_p0390149

 

 

And the sawhorse to sit the table on:

 

Craftright Folding Bench n' Vice

https://www.bunnings...n-vice_p5860871

 

Craftright Folding Metal Leg Saw Horse

https://www.bunnings...-horse_p5710162

 

Craftright Folding Saw Horse - 2 Pack

https://www.bunnings...2-pack_p5828526

Edited January 4, 2018 by Johnno

[SlotsNZ]

Is it for a base to mount a plastic track on, or to route a wood track? If to mount a plastic track, it has the advantage of being more damp/weatherproof. But if you have a humidity/dampness issue, that is more likely to affect the rails of a plastic track than it is MDF anyway.

 

Ply is not usually used for routing, as cutting across the grain is likely to cause some feathering, and the constant rub of slot guides will cause degradation.

 

There are many hundreds of routed slot racks built with MDF, haven't seen one done in Ply. The only time I have seen MDF "fall apart" is when is becomes "weetbix" or "puss-board" due to water damage.

[munter]

Some guys build a table and then rout the track....personally I dont do that. I build a table (ply would be fine for the top layer) and then create track pieces to lay on top of that....it gives an added insurance of flatness and also lets you add some rise and fall and some banking. Also if you make a stuff up teh that piece can just be replaced rather than junking the table top.

 

Most use mdf for the track pieces but my first was done in ply and I have also seen hardboard used.....9mm or 12mm thickness is good for the track pieces.

 

I like to work alone...have you ever tried to swing a sheet of 12mm mdf by yourself? it aint easy, brother.... which is one reason I used 9mm on my last track.

Edited January 4, 2018 by munter

[Johnno]

Hi, sorry about that, I will be using plastic track Scalextric ARC ONE Pro Platinum C1374. Any suggestions for ply thickness ad timber framing support thickness.

 

Not a routed track system.

 

Thanks for quick reply

[munter]

I used ceiling batten (about 65 x 35) for my table frame work...light and straight. You dont need to go super heavy. I have seen 100 x 100 for legs, overkill.

For a table surface I was sold something cheaper than mdf, more like a chipboard but it was flat.

 

Unless you are going to climb all over the thing the 9mm is probably OK....if you think there will be some heavy treatment then go for a 12 mm thickness.

Edited January 4, 2018 by munter

[SlotsNZ]

Whether you decide to use MDF or Ply for your base, you can kind of go two ways on the construction.

 

The heavy route - 4 x 2 (100 x 50) frame, as say 900 to metre centres, with 12mm upwards.

Or you can go the light way. Use 3 x 1 kiln dried, dress timber - or even ceiling batten timber which is usually cheap, with say 450 to 600mm centres, and use 9mm board for your base.

 

I prefer the latter method, as it is a lot lighter to work with, and usually works out cheaper.

 

One thing I suggest - PLAN. - My last track, I built the frame without the legs, wired everything with it sitting on the ground, while I could walk over the top of it, then attached the legs, then the lid.

This was a lot easier than doing all the wood construction first, then trying to wire it when the base sheets are in place and you have to crawl around on your back doing everything, and the light is obscured by the base sheets.

Same principle here for routed wood or plastic really.

This is with the lane power and all the lighting wiring all in place. I used over 100 metres of the white "string" for the LED lighting.

 

 

http://www.auslot.com/forums/index.php?/topic/12975-oakland-raceway-v2/page__st__20

if you scroll down the page at this link, you'll see what I mean. - I used ceiling batten timber. Kiln dried pine, very light, pretty cheap.

[munter]

I never thought the ceiling batten was cheap, that is a personal measure but it was the correct weight, strength and came in good lengths.

With a good drop saw you can get a neat construction.

[mattcrackers]

Yeah I've done something similar to John above.

 

I used 70 x 30 Pine and 16mm Chipboard for the top all sourced from Bunnings to create a table 5.3m x 1.5m.

 

Plenty strong enough and has 10 castor wheels on the 10 legs (70 x 30 as well) to move back and forth from the wall.

 

I have Scalextric Sport track set up on top and it has worked well.

 

cheers

 

Matt