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terry

Lightweight Body Filler

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Presently I am using Selleys Plastibond body filler for my body work, and although its an excellent product I feel its a little "heavy",

 

What do you guys use?

 

I would prefer something local but thats not a deal breaker, but it has to be fairly easy to use without any heavy fumes.

 

Thanks for any help,

 

Terry

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Heck Terry, what sort of gaps, hollows or valleys are you trying to fill.

 

If I have a problem on resin I use tamiya "basic" putty but for larger voids I use Auto body filler.

The latter is rarely used if the beginning piece is a good casting.

 

JB weld is good but it can get harder than the resin which is no good when sanding back because you can get low points either side of the hard JB weld fill.


John Warren

Slotcars are my preferred reality

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Hi John,

 

I should have been more specific, I use the tamiya basic stuff for small jobs, no problems there, but I do a bit of work in flaring guards and sometimes the flares can be 5-10mm or so.

 

This is an example of what I'm doing at the moment

 

184754.jpg

Edited by terry

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Terry: lighter flares can be made by gluing the styrene sheets together onto the side of the body and then shaped and filled.

This way less filler is required.

As the flares will be subject to some hitting during Racing I use either Auto body filler or usually make my own filler using fiberglass Resins and cheap talc. That wat the consistency can be controlled, slower setting time and is a bit harder than most auto fillers.


Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

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Milliput superfine is pretty good to work with and can almost be used in such a way that it needs little or no sanding but it is quite heavy so best to use it sparingly. Nice to see some work on a Marcos, one of my all time favourites although I only have one. Better start looking on thEbay se if there's any up for grabs.


bram1_zpsfkhrhndv.jpg

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Terry: lighter flares can be made by gluing the styrene sheets together onto the side of the body and then shaped and filled.

This way less filler is required.

As the flares will be subject to some hitting during Racing I use either Auto body filler or usually make my own filler using fiberglass Resins and cheap talc. That wat the consistency can be controlled, slower setting time and is a bit harder than most auto fillers.

 

Crikey Phil!

 

I forgot about that method of building up the guards that way, is this another senior moment??

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Just do it RWB style and cut the original guard and rivet the new one on. No filler at all then... might need some very small rivets though...

 

(I did this with a 1/24 Aoshima GT86 kit I’m using on a Scaleauto chassis. Needed a little JB behind them so they don’t come off racing though...

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This is probably a pretty dumb question & I don't want to hijack this thread.

 

Where can I get styrene sheets from at a reasonable price?

Not just small sheets for modifying cars but also large blocks for landscaping.

I can't seem to find any suppliers around Brisbane.


Cheers Grant

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The plasticard type styrene I buy in large sheets from a local sign maker. He stocks thickness from 0.5mm up to 3mm. Much cheaper than Evergreen from model shops.

The styrene for landscaping I buy from a local factory that makes boxes for Salmon farmers, often can get damaged of faulty boxes.

Edited by kalbfellp

Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

Email

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Thanks Phil,

I'll keep trying to find a supplier up here, at least I know where to look now, thanks again.


Cheers Grant

20191120172309-193d8f3b.gif.......................................................20170306174707-b4015afe.gif

Home Track..........Corvette C1 Build..........McLaren M1A Build..........Maserati 300S Build..........Allard J2 Build..........50's Diner..........Iso Griffo A3C

 

3D Printed Adjustable Chassis..........3D Print Projects

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