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Capri-corn7

Braking Problem Help

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Hi all

 

99% of my "stable" have s can motors. 1 LMP and a Fly Capri were the exceptions. Awhile back I noticed that the Capri was braking violently and even winding brakes almost off made no difference. We folded the Fly Capri class into our Group 5 class so I just stopped using it. It's been sitting in the to do pile to get a new EVO 6 motor.

 

I've just built a new project car and used a flat-6 long can - and it has exactly the same behavior. Swapping out the flat 6 for an avantslot long can made zero difference either. & re checking my LMP shows that has the same issue

 

S -can motors give a good range of braking so I just am a bit lost?

 

I have an older Difalco controller from 2008 and I wondered if anyone is aware of issues with these and long cans? I can't see why there'd be a difference but there is.

 

Appreciate any thoughts..

 

Cheers

Pat

 

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They are only toys .... until you pull the trigger.

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So you are getting extreme brakes with little or no adjustment?


John Warren

Slotcars are my preferred reality

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Yep. Brakes are full on throughout the full range of brake settings, until you get to the off position. Then no brakes.


They are only toys .... until you pull the trigger.

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I have a brake pot in my spares box. I’m in Te Kuiti at the moment, New Plymouth tomorrow Home ??

You are welcome to try it when I get back to base.

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Thanks guys. I pulled it apart today but couldn't see any loose wires or broken solder.

 

Tried cars with different gearing but no difference.

 

Is there anywhere in this part of the world that services these?


They are only toys .... until you pull the trigger.

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Is there anywhere in this part of the world that services these?

 

I think Gill Andrews is your best bet


John Warren

Slotcars are my preferred reality

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Just use a multimeter to check the pot before doing any thing. The resistance will vary as the pot is adjusted.

Also check that the wiper is always going all the way to the stop.

The solder joint on the coil does not look great,check that it is not broken.

Check that the pot wiper is contacting the resistance coil, there is usually a clip holding the wiper shaft into the pot.

Sorry cannot offer to help,have a backlog of several controllers on the bench waiting to be repaired.

Edited by kalbfellp

Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

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I have a few circuit master controllers ,similar to di falco . Anytime I have braking problems its usually due to the plate needing a clean .I use brasso cream or autosol to clean it hey presto brakes work perfectly again !! Might be worth a try ?

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Bumped into Pat in the street yesterday - silly lad hadn't realised we had been allowed back into the colony, and failed to avoid me stalking up the street :)

banghead.gif

 

Anyway, it's an an easy job, I will sort that for him as soon as he drops me the controller.


Walks upright Unaided  *  Ties Own Shoelaces  *  Can Mispronounce Own Name In Five Languages  *  Mostly Aims Rattle Cans Away from Self
 My Track Oakland Raceway V2     Our Club  HMBRC     

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Capri-corn7, hello everybody. A little birdie told me you had a question about one of my controllers. Actually your brake rheostat is perfectly fine. The actual issue is that you have one of my 1/24 controllers with a 3 ohm, or maybe even a 2 ohm depending on the vintage, brake rheostat. So the brake is adjusting but the resistance is so low you do not notice the change. If the brake rheostat was blown as soon as you adjust the knob lower than full brake you would have no brakes at all.

 

My 1/32 controllers have a 25 ohm brake. This is part number DD336 and Slotraceshop, NZ or Armchairracer may have them in stock.

 

My concern about your controller is the value network that is plugged into the controller. Could you pull it out and look on the underside of the mini PCB and tell me the number engraved on it? If it is the stock network it will be the 148 ohm network. My stock 1/32 controllers use a 290 ohm network which would have a much slower response.

 

Please post your answer here and I will check back and then give you further advice on maybe trying a different value network to improve your controller response.

 

I do not normally visit a lot of forums to look for questions to help racers out with their questions. I make controllers for 1/24, 1/32 and H.O. scale and checking so many of them would be extremely time consuming. So if you have a question and need an answer you can post it here and then give me a heads up to look at it. This way other racers may benefit from the same information.

 

My website is www.difalcoonline.com if you would like to check out my Neo and Genesis controllers for 1/32 and other scales. Thanks guys.

 

Jim Difalco

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Wow, that's an awesome response from the vendor there...

 

Welcome to our humble little forum Jim.

Hope you enjoy it...

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Jim is a very helpful guy, I sent him an email last night and it looks like he was on forum here by lunchtime in USA.

 

- I didn't realise Pat's Emotion 3 controller had such a low ohm brake pot.

I probably have a 25 ohm kicking around my parts bin somewhere - I kept a few PM and Difalco bits when I was running down the stock in slotraceshop.


Walks upright Unaided  *  Ties Own Shoelaces  *  Can Mispronounce Own Name In Five Languages  *  Mostly Aims Rattle Cans Away from Self
 My Track Oakland Raceway V2     Our Club  HMBRC     

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IMO the 148 ohm resistor network is about right for 1/32 Club racing.

Hopefully some other owners will comment here,but The 290 seems too slow for club tracks,but may be fine for home set tracks,

I know Terry is using 148.

I normally use 10 ohm brake pots as a minimum on 1/32,but that is a personal thing.

Edited by kalbfellp

Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

Email

 

 

 

 

 

 

Logos%2016_17.small_zpswkcwjf0q.jpg

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Hi Pat,

 

ducked into the lockup and I have a D336 pot here to swap over for you.

 

cheers

 

mark


Walks upright Unaided  *  Ties Own Shoelaces  *  Can Mispronounce Own Name In Five Languages  *  Mostly Aims Rattle Cans Away from Self
 My Track Oakland Raceway V2     Our Club  HMBRC     

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Thanks everybody. Really appreciate all the help and advice. This is a great supportive hobby & forum... B)

 

@Jim thanks for the info - I'll look at the board tonight and let you know. I bought the controller second hand so all I went off was the HD30.

It's been a huge improvement for me. I'll check out your site too...

 

@Mark - cheers for doing that. Sounds like that will make all the difference. You didn't need to come back from Europe just for me.....

 

@Phil - once we are back up and running might try some different boards to see how they feel.

 

Cheers

Pat


They are only toys .... until you pull the trigger.

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JK has that West Coast custom board in his - easy swap for you to try out the different feel


Walks upright Unaided  *  Ties Own Shoelaces  *  Can Mispronounce Own Name In Five Languages  *  Mostly Aims Rattle Cans Away from Self
 My Track Oakland Raceway V2     Our Club  HMBRC     

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IMO the 148 ohm resistor network is about right for 1/32 Club racing.

Hopefully some other owners will comment here,but The 290 seems too slow for club tracks,but may be fine for home set tracks,

I know Terry is using 148.

I normally use 10 ohm brake pots as a minimum on 1/32,but that is a personal thing.

 

Am I?

 

Either way my Difalco is now 100%, thank you.

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Phil, I do have racers using the 148 ohm network for 1/32 here in the states. Probably more are using my optional 218 ohm. The 180 ohm is also a good choice or my DD264 west coast network because it has different ohm resistors over the 30 bands for a curved power band.

 

Voltage used for 1/32 varies wildly from as low as 8 volts to the usual 13.8 volts. The lower the voltage the slower the controller response feels hence you need a faster response network to compensate. Higher powered motors also need a faster response network.

 

If you have too fast a response network (low ohms) then you may tend to drive the car on the first few bands and feather the trigger for turns. Where if you have a slower network you can drive more in the middle bands and the controller will be more forgiving if you are a couple bands off in a turn. Make sense?

 

Cheers.

 

Jim

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Funnily enough I drove last night, and picked up another driver's DD304 which is the same colour as mine by accident. I have the standard pack, he runs the "West Coast" pack.

I found I was struggling with the narrow adjustment for low throttle on a twisty track.

 

Just shows how much difference those packs can make.

 

- Of course he pointed out my error AFTER I finished driving .... and I thought it was my advancing years and 4 months without a trigger that was my problem..... maybe it was those too.


Walks upright Unaided  *  Ties Own Shoelaces  *  Can Mispronounce Own Name In Five Languages  *  Mostly Aims Rattle Cans Away from Self
 My Track Oakland Raceway V2     Our Club  HMBRC     

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