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3D Printed Adjustable Chassis


ZeGas

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Printer is going 24/7 at the moment I am flabbergasted at the response.

Sorry for the delay in sending out to all, looks like it might be next week before they are posted.

 

Having said that I have assessed the postage costs. (all in $AU)

It should be noted that this is for letter sized parcels so will be in padded bag, not boxed.

 

Within Australia incl packaging

<125gms $3.00

<250gms $4.00

 

NZ incl packaging

<50gms $2.95

<250gms $6.36

 

UK incl packaging

<50gms $3.95

<250gms $9.00

 

US incl packaging

<50gms $3.95

<250gms $9.00

 

 

Europe incl packaging

<50gms $3.95

<250gms $9.00

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Hi all,

 

The first batch of chassis kits were posted off yesterday, I look forward to the comments and improvement ideas.

 

I have run out of hard springs and will not be adding these to future kits, the ones sent out have them in, if the feedback is positive on the hard springs I will order more.

 

I really look forward to seeing the builds and hope the chassis's live up to expectation.

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Great project

Can I put in a forward order now for one each of FC and FK based, to be delivered anytime after 1st November, but preferably before Christmas.

That will give me some opportunity to test and figure,

 

Happy to be a customer who is also bench bunny beta tester while you fine tune.

 

- And half a dozen with a sidewinder FC when you can figure one out

- And a couple of FF sidewinder like MR slotcars Canada does.

 

- Just to make your poor wee cogs spin a little :)

Recovering Lapsed Slot Addict :ph34r:  *  Custodian of many used screws (mostly loose :rolleyes:)  *  Total kidder  *  Companion of other delusional slot addicts :lol:  

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Hi Mark,

 

Kit comes with adapter so both motors can fit in the same pod.

Did you want two kits?

 

Hi Phil,

 

The printer is an entry level Anet A8 clone.

Will be happy to swap a kit for a body, if your keen.

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Thanks Rossko,

 

Just make sure you post your build up.

 

And remember to trim the bushing holders back a bit at the top so you don't split the pod.

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I've been asked about locations for weight.

 

I like my weight right under the axle so there is a bit of room in the pod for this.

 

There is also room in the front sections of the chassis if needed.

 

Unfortunately there isn't much option elsewhere in the chassis but, as it is suspended, it probably wouldn't be wise anyway.

 

I'm not a lead fan so use a tungsten polymer, about $8 for 25gms. Available from selected bait and tackle shops or this ebay store.

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/25-gram-Tungsten-Putty-for-finesse-lure-fishing/322338455751?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

 

As it is a polymer it is malleable and holds its shape well.

 

If you get it soft enough by manipulation it will stick to the pod quite well if pressed in otherwise a drop or two of glue will do the trick.

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Hi Chas,

Was sent last Monday 28th August.

I sent something to Christchurch not long back and it took a couple of weeks.

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Hi ZeGas and all.

 

My kit arrived today. 16 days from Aussie at cheapest rate. Not too bad. Will provide some feedback as I investigate options over the next couple of weeks.

 

Have looked at all parts. All present and looks good. ZeGas has done a great job in creating this chassis.

 

As he has said in instructions motor and rear bearing holes may need a bit of easing Take it slowly as I eased my front motor mount a little too much. Not a problem as motor will be glued in.

 

Had hoped I might be able to use in 1/29th Bugeye Sprite proxy car but too wide at rear so back to the drawing board. My preference is for brass anyway.

 

Do not remember what was quoted but minimum wheelbase looks like 68mm but it could be trimmed shorter without affecting integrity of chassis.. With narrow tyres/wheels as provided for Sprite minimum width would be about 50mm. Sprite is only 45-46.

 

Interesting thought that my Slimline Slot-it pod is a very close fit. Normal pod would be a bit of a stretch though but perhaps not impossible. Either however would likely affect minimum length.

 

For normal sized slotcar I do not see any constraints. A Slot-it Alfa or Ferrari 312 PB for example should be an easy fit and they are some of the smaller cars around.

 

More later. Thinking I might try my McLaren M12 resin body.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton

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Hmmm, I haven't have a problem with the motor mounts, did the pod split badly?

 

If it is not repairable I'll send an new one over at no cost.

 

Unfortunately the chassis is a once size fits most, I built an Allard and that has a narrow body as well, so wouldn't suit.

 

Look forward to seeing your build Chas.

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Hi ZeGas. No problem at all with chassis. I was just a bit exuberant with file.

 

Others will learn from my mistakes. I may have gone a little far as I was mindful of your instruction not to force. Also eased rear bearing mounts slightly but not too much.

 

Very happy with chassis. An ability to adjust length swith screw would be good rather than just gluing like you say but you cannot have everything.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton

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Hi again ZeGas.

 

Not chassis's fault but every car I try to fit chassis to will not fit. Latest is McLaren M12 as not enough room behind rear wheels even trimming down chassis.

 

Clearly chassis would fit nicely in any saloon or sports car with a boot or rear over hang.

 

One enhancement I thought might be good would be way to fix overall chassis at different lengths short of gluing. Like the MRRC Sebring. Could some sort of clamp perhaps be incorporated into front pod screw fitting. Chassis dimensions appear a little small to accommodate a screw fixing but this might be easily remedied if you wanted to.

 

I found putting screws supplied in chassis problematic. Think I might have to be tap holes first. Would self tappers be better. Must say have not really tested either at this stage. Currently holding chassis together with rubber bands.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton

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Hi again ZeGas.

 

Think I have found the perfect body for your chassis although there are no doubt plenty of others.

 

It fits my Aston Marton DBR1 like a glove. Also fits DB4 and possibly Lotus 30. Will not fit Ferrari 275P.

 

See Rossco has fitted his to a Ford GT. Looks great. No doubt it could be fitted to my Ferrari 250 GTO when it gets back from IPS.

 

Hope you do not mind my comments. Am enjoying sussing out possibilities from my current body stocks.

 

Chassis appears to be very stiff which was something I was concerned about.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton

Edited by charlesx
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I ask thinking that when I start fitting them to bodies, instead of glueing the two sections solid, I will drill small holes and screw through from above, perhaps with some less permanent glue

Recovering Lapsed Slot Addict :ph34r:  *  Custodian of many used screws (mostly loose :rolleyes:)  *  Total kidder  *  Companion of other delusional slot addicts :lol:  

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Hi SlotsNZ/Mark.

 

Same thought here but would prefer not to glue at all. Other thought was because chassis is so fine (sections fairly small) perhaps some sort of pin or clamp. Also thought of using something like bathroom silicone which can be easily removed if required.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton

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Hi ZeGas. No problem at all with chassis. I was just a bit exuberant with file.

 

Others will learn from my mistakes. I may have gone a little far as I was mindful of your instruction not to force. Also eased rear bearing mounts slightly but not too much.

 

Very happy with chassis. An ability to adjust length swith screw would be good rather than just gluing like you say but you cannot have everything.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton

 

Chas,

With the bushing mount, a very fine clip with side cutters is sufficient, I mean very fine, maybe 1/2 a mil each side should be fine, you can push the bushings in with some force just not total force so it does need a fine clip.

 

 

Hi again ZeGas.

 

Not chassis's fault but every car I try to fit chassis to will not fit. Latest is McLaren M12 as not enough room behind rear wheels even trimming down chassis.

 

Clearly chassis would fit nicely in any saloon or sports car with a boot or rear over hang.

 

One enhancement I thought might be good would be way to fix overall chassis at different lengths short of gluing. Like the MRRC Sebring. Could some sort of clamp perhaps be incorporated into front pod screw fitting. Chassis dimensions appear a little small to accommodate a screw fixing but this might be easily remedied if you wanted to.

 

I found putting screws supplied in chassis problematic. Think I might have to be tap holes first. Would self tappers be better. Must say have not really tested either at this stage. Currently holding chassis together with rubber bands.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton

 

I did initially look at screw options but couldn't think of a way to make it work with the limitations of the printer.

I may look at screw options again in the future.

The problem with 3D printing is that it prints in layers so the vertical can be weak and if screwing sideways it could split the chassis.

Another restriction is that is that the printer cannot print in space, so you cannot have overhangs without using supports and supports leave a rough surface, have a look at the overhangs on the pod for the screw attachments.

Rough edges will not give a nice fit.

 

In regards to the screws I have not had any problems except where I had to use supports in the pod, I found that pre-screwing the pod from the top (smooth side) first before assemble solved this problem.

In the packages send there should be a slip of paper that details my findings, shortfalls and workarounds.

 

When designing I was thinking that the chassis would be a once only use for a specific car so wasn't really looking at a chassis that could be swapped from car to car and adjusted to suit.

 

With the M12 you could totally do away with the rear portion of the chassis behind the pod mounts, I did that on my Allard, the chassis was different though, it was designed specifically for the Allard but this was the basis of the current adjustable design and the body mounts were in front of the pod screws.

 

Once fixed to the body the chassis is still stiff.

 

20170703142527-3171d190-me.jpg

 

 

Hi again ZeGas.

 

Think I have found the perfect body for your chassis although there are no doubt plenty of others.

 

It fits my Aston Marton DBR1 like a glove. Also fits DB4 and possibly Lotus 30. Will not fit Ferrari 275P.

 

See Rossco has fitted his to a Ford GT. Looks great. No doubt it could be fitted to my Ferrari 250 GTO when it gets back from IPS.

 

Hope you do not mind my comments. Am enjoying sussing out possibilities from my current body stocks.

 

Chassis appears to be very stiff which was something I was concerned about.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton

 

When I looked at chassis design I had only a limited number of cars that I own so I apologise that it may not fit all cars.

My favourite cars are mainly from the 70's back so I took a Ninco 934 (because the HRS chassis and the PCS chassis just didn't go that short) and made sure that is would fit that.

Then I looked at an SRC Capri as I have always like the plain Capri (non Grp5) but wasn't keen on the SRC chassis, just couldn't get it to run well.

 

The Ninco posts were located perfectly for mounting but with the Capri I used the rear posts and extended but cut the front ones off and used plastic tubing fixed with JB Weld as I do with resin cast bodies that do not have mounts.

This way you can position where ever you like.

 

20170918085511-8656ae90-me.jpg

20170918085518-022d32f3-me.jpg

20170918085525-36d37ef5-me.jpg

 

Peter Gunn of this forum has successfully set up a lovely set of Cobra's one Ninco and a George Turner Cobra and King Cobra.

This is how he did his.

 

 

the mounting on the Cobra is easy as the body has 4 mounting posts and the front 2 fit into the space in the front of the chassis behind the front axle what i always do is make up a piece of plastik card and mark the holes on it to get the distance between them right and just transfer that to the gap and drill 2 holes , the rear same princible at the rear made a piece of plastik card same size as the tail of the chassis and marked the 2 holes onto it before drilling the holes in it transfered that to the tail piece after adding some extra plastik card to the tail to get the rear height right , what i will do in future is use rawlplug body mounting idea that way i can fit the posts to the chassis first trim the plugs to get the height and araldite or some other resin the plugs into the body allow to dry take the screws out which i would have used to position the chassis reinforce the plugs where it is attached to body and that's it can do 2/3/4 mount fixing that way

 

20170918090640-431d5105.jpg20170918090640-318abda2.jpg20170918090638-bd10c420.jpg

 

And no, I do not mind comments, this is how progress and advancement works.

 

Hope the above info helps you.

Edited by ZeGas
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Hi ZeGas.

 

Thanks for the tips. Glad you mentioned not drilling from side as that was one of options being considered.

 

Afraid I took the word "adjustable" literally so was thinking of likes of several others on the market (all plastic).

 

Had not got to stage of considering chopping off the rear of chassis but certainly not outside my usual considerations. Note the example picture you put in your post 46.

 

My Aston Marin project will not require latter so will post pictures when I get to actual project. Do not hold your breath.

 

Keep up the good work. Some of Peter Gunns creations also look great.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton

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  • 1 month later...

When I designed the initial chassis I was thinking breaking and the loads associated with that.

 

I've had rethink from the opposite side of the coin and started thinking about acceleration and how the loads associated with that affect the handling.

 

So I designed a chassis with this in mind, the suspension is focused more on upward force rather than downward force.

 

I bit of testing and I think I have it sussed.

 

20171102142210-13901e4b-me.jpg

20171102142221-d1239299-me.jpg20171102142229-d983a895-me.jpg20171102142237-657207e4-me.jpg

 

The spring loading at the front of the pod reduces the tendency for the front end to lift so keeping the guide firmly planted, while the springs either side of the pod alow the weight of the body to lower the chassis as a whole at the rear while still allowing body roll in corners.

 

I haven't made a comparison between the two chassis on the same body yet to see the difference.

 

Also added in cable ties.

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Very nice...

It's a very contemporary design that's been proven by many manufacturers to work, so it should be a good thing.

 

That's not to say to old design won't work, but rather just not common place.

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