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kart.68

Best Hand Controller

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The Canberra 8 hour the winning team used a true speed controller with 3 time long time Difalco users me included with each testing 1/10 a lap time improvement and our team Barby only team to do sub 7sec laps on all lanes not just cutter lanes, the true speed controller is unreal controller for its $230 cost.

 

I assume you are talking about the MTII for that price?

Was that in Normal, or Coast mode?

I should have mine turn up sometime this week, as a replacement for my ageing Difalco, which will be relegated to a spare.

 

 

Sports Racer, I've had someone tell me the same thing about the DS-3506 not delivering full power, another issue with them is the crappy design of the way the wires to the trigger are routed, they will fail sooner rather than later, maybe just turn it into a $150 night light with the pretty blue light?

 

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The DS probably feels a bit flat as is is designed to be used up to 19 Volts,so the resistor pack probably needs some tuning, not easy on that controller.

I think the True Speed does look like good value.I like the location of the pots on the top of most of them..

This is something I am looking at doing on my next controller build.


Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

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Well my Truspeed MTII turned up last Thursday, and I have to say the build quality is first rate, as usual from Steve Hills, I also own one of his PWM II, and it's hard to believe that these are not mass produced by a large company.

The trigger is soooomth, almost contactless in its feel, and the whole thing is nice and light.

Now to the negatives, if you could call them that.

The controls on top are very smooth, meaning they have no feel, so, mid race I found it hard not to over adjust, no doubt I'll get used to them in time.

I got the high power one, so instead of the the resettable fuse, it came with a fast blow fuse, but it's inside the handle, so not a quick change if it blows.

The full power relay is in the handle, not down the other end of the cables, a bit strange, but as has been pointed out by those that know, it's not needed for the kind of cars/motors I'll be using it for.

The club i race with runs on 10 volts, and down there the response is a bit soft even though I had the sensitivity turned all the way up, at 12 volts it was fine, I found a fix for this by shortening the trigger throw, which is a $8 option, and well worth the extra, and can be fitted to most brand controllers.

One thing I really like on both the Truspeed controllers is the "traction control", it works without effecting the rest of the controller, unlike on the Difalco, which is that bad, I never used it much.

I'm yet to try out the Coast/HO mode, which is for cars with lots of brakes.

I used it at Friday night racing at Hallam, and got 3 wins from 3 starts, but I did the same last week with my Difalco, so I can't say one is better than the other.

 

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so from this , what would u say is the best difalco to use and with what module ?? i think i am right in that Module ?? part

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Dont know which is the best Difalco model but I did see that they will be using a new handle on their new controllers....for a couple of reasons.

 

Big hands and Parma problems was my understanding.


John Warren

Slotcars are my preferred reality

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Toast, it may depend in part on what type of racing - eg retro, higher powered 1/24th, RTR hard body 1/32nd etc

 

For our RTR racing in NZ, a lot of guys seem to bite the bullet and buy a Difalco DD304, which is one of the dearer models. A few guys swap out the standard module/resistor pack, for a hotter one than stock.

Personally, I have found the standard one just fine. One guy in our club uses the "West Coast" network, but when I tried his controller, I found it too hot, and was wanting to mush the controller back

 

I've tried some ACD, 3rd Eye and a Truspeed, and found all of them to be okay for my driving RTR cars, within the range of adjustments.

Maybe at 10 volts, you may want a hotter network with a DD300 series Difalco.

 

3 wins from 3 races . . . . . . you don't have too much of a problem :lol::ph34r::D


Walks upright Unaided  *  Ties Own Shoelaces  *  Can Mispronounce Own Name In Five Languages  *  Mostly Aims Rattle Cans Away from Self
 My Track Oakland Raceway V2     Our Club  HMBRC     

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would that difalco dd304 , handle 25k motors in 24th scale cars you reckon ??

 

RPM and scale of car don't really tell us what kind of motor power you are thinking of.

What you have to ask yourself is, - what is the highest wattage motor and at what voltage is the max current delivered.

 

Are you talking a Carrera 1/24th motor which draws 2/5ths of almost nothing, or a raging drag car motor that draws 100 amps at stall - if you get my drift.

 

I THINK, but would have to check, that all the HD30 series controllers for both 1/32nd and 1`/24th scale can handle between 30 and 40 amps at 12 volts.

A typical FK180 boxer 21k motor draws under 2 amps at stall, a Shark or Slot.it motor standard in their cars, less than 1 amp.


Walks upright Unaided  *  Ties Own Shoelaces  *  Can Mispronounce Own Name In Five Languages  *  Mostly Aims Rattle Cans Away from Self
 My Track Oakland Raceway V2     Our Club  HMBRC     

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Answer back from Jim - on a Sunday evening their time, thanks Jim

 

"the controllers are usually run from 8 volts - to over 20 volts on HO cars. Stall current? no clue. The transistors are 25 or 30 amps continuous but all my 1/32 controllers have an 8 amp fuse on them. 1/24 controllers just use a bigger fuse rating as well as a much bigger heat sink.

 

The transistors are not used anywhere near full current operation"


Walks upright Unaided  *  Ties Own Shoelaces  *  Can Mispronounce Own Name In Five Languages  *  Mostly Aims Rattle Cans Away from Self
 My Track Oakland Raceway V2     Our Club  HMBRC     

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would that difalco dd304 , handle 25k motors in 24th scale cars you reckon ??

 

I reckon it would


John Warren

Slotcars are my preferred reality

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