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lenny broke

2017 Tasman Cup, Round 6 Spitfire Raceway

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Thanks for repairing 14 about the guide do know the car rides a little high as i did it to scale, tyres etc which has made the guide sit higher in the body my mistake should have made it lower to the ground, which i have done on my spare car here taken1mm of the ride height which in turn has made the guide sit further in the slot and the braids more flush to the track one of the problems of setting cars up on Carrera track the rails are a bit high

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Question about the guides.

Is the Ninco pro-guide I have considered too long?

 

I did run one last year, and there was no mention specifically that it was, but it's best to check...

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I use the Ninco Pro Guide on a lot of my cars, but have found that the smaller guide seems to work better on these low powered cars. I tend to use the NSR guide as it is small and deep enough.

The secret to these cars is to reduce and drag or friction.

A few weeks ago we improved a club members car 4 tenths in lap time by just reaming the bearings slightly and increasing the gear backlash.

It was not tight just did not spin freely.


Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

Email

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Thanks Phil.

 

I'll probably swap them out then.

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I use a NSR guide for most of my F1 cars, maybe, on occasion use the slotit universal guide,

 

I believe that in my case,and maybe old23's as well, our cars may be a tad light in the nose, most of the top runners are weighing in over the 60 grams, mine is 58 and I think that a gram or 2 up front would benefit the cars handling in those tight corners,

 

I did notice some quite big guides used when I had the chance to observe the cars here, and I think those cars suffered from those guides being used.

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The ninco long blade guides bind on my rally track, I actually sanded one corner so the 3 I think cars could go around it this year, so I don't see why you need the long blade Michael !!!!

 

Rossko

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The longer ninco guide is also 1 - 1.5mm deeper.

As the ninco blades are thinner than most, they still work well on a scaley R1 inner too.

 

Personally, I really like them as they tend to offer a nice balance between plastic track performance and wood track performance.

Interestingly, I often find that the NSR guide is too shallow, which on a recessed thick braid track, can cause them to pop out.

That said, NSR's handle so well that a change in guide is generally not needed.

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Hi Guys

The cars went in the post this afternoon on there way back to Stubbo. All the repairs were completed this morning.

 

Just on the guides a few cars had there's sitting up off the track which meant that last little bit wasn't in the slot. This also meant that all the weight was on the front wheels. I set the guide up with spacers and try to get most of the weight on the guide braids with the wheels just touching the track. This way it ensures a good contact with the track braid. I also reckon it helps reduce the front wheels digging in and tipping the car over and get as much of the guide blade into the slot as possible too. I also think it helps with the braking as well.

I used a ninco pro guide with about 3mm cut off the trailing edge. It was noticeable how it smoothed the run up the hill on the track here.

 

Anyway thanks for letting us play with your toys again and hope to see them all back here again next year.

 

Cheers

Alan

Edited by lenny broke

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Thanks to Alan and all the gang at Spitfire Raceway.

 

Congrats to all those at the top end.

 

I'll get to and update the points as soon as I can.


Alan Stubbings

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Next year! My body is painted and a new chassis started, I will even get some testing done before posting next year.

J.B. Has also collected the prototype rear bracket and some other bits to build a new chassis!

Edited by kalbfellp

Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

Email

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Looks like a lot of work Phil,

 

At least you have built into your design an offset option, previously these brackets did not take into account the need for offset and gave a too high ground clearance.

 

When the cars were here I was very impressed with a couple of the builds where the bearings were mounted out away from the chassis rails, don't know if its a performance thing but it sure looked neat!

 

Certainly helped in fitting up the suspension bits and pieces

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Phil, is the brass placed inside the tubing for drilling?

If so, that a nice simple way to make a jig...

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Yes Michael, the brass tube slides thru the steel tube for drilling,it is located by lock screws in the tube ( out of photo).

The drilling is quick and easy, cutting the brass, removing one side clean up and polishing is where the time goes.

The other end of the steel tube has a similar jig with no offset.

At the moment indications of costing are around $12.00, a bit expensive in my opinion. So if I can work out how to reduce costs

I will make more.


Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

Email

 

 

 

 

 

 

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