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Emerald Raceway

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Same here Brett

the software and interface should be around a week

i just have to work out and source a power supply

i want a 30 amp variable set up

But

They seem to be around 200 on Ebay :o

mobile raceways had some good prices on a range of power supplies but they don't open till next week i might have to wait till then before i decide


Race Ya Later

 

Jason

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I just bought one of these, http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/High-Quality-12V-33A-400W-DC-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply-CNC-400W-/262503098749?hash=item3d1e67697d:g:pqgAAOSwEjFXc5ej

 

And I'm sure you can find them cheaper, that was just the first one I came across.

 

 

There's a trim pot on it, and mine goes down to 10.3 volts, and up to 14 volts.

Everyone always says you need a adjustable voltage PSU, but very rarely have I changed mine, I also bought a 12volt, 10 amp one to run my tyre truers, and just bought a PWM voltage control to adjust speed on the tyre truers, ( I got two of them for approx $4, so I've got a spare if you want it )

The 10 amp on will run both the Hudi, and the Tyre Razor at the same time.

The 30 amp one runs any kind of cars on my 3 lanes, and for the price of the adjustable ones your looking at you could buy 4 or more of these, buy 2, use one for the track, one for the tyre truers, and it's also a spare for the track.

Edited by espsix

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I just bought one of these, http://www.ebay.com....qgAAOSwEjFXc5ej

 

And I'm sure you can find them cheaper, that was just the first one I came across.

 

 

There's a trim pot on it, and mine goes down to 10.3 volts, and up to 14 volts.

Everyone always says you need a adjustable voltage PSU, but very rarely have I changed mine, I also bought a 12volt, 10 amp one to run my tyre truers, and just bought a PWM voltage control to adjust speed on the tyre truers, ( I got two of them for approx $4, so I've got a spare if you want it )

The 10 amp on will run both the Hudi, and the Tyre Razor at the same time.

The 30 amp one runs any kind of cars on my 3 lanes, and for the price of the adjustable ones your looking at you could buy 4 or more of these, buy 2, use one for the track, one for the tyre truers, and it's also a spare for the track.

Whilst these power supplies do work well, there is one very major caveat that should be mentioned.

 

To be legal, these power supplies need to be wired up by an electrician, and placed inside another 'container'.

To be at least safe, they should be in a plastic 'hobby' box...

 

240v on exposed screw terminals is definitely a recipe for disaster...

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I just bought one of these, http://www.ebay.com....qgAAOSwEjFXc5ej

 

And I'm sure you can find them cheaper, that was just the first one I came across.

 

 

There's a trim pot on it, and mine goes down to 10.3 volts, and up to 14 volts.

Everyone always says you need a adjustable voltage PSU, but very rarely have I changed mine, I also bought a 12volt, 10 amp one to run my tyre truers, and just bought a PWM voltage control to adjust speed on the tyre truers, ( I got two of them for approx $4, so I've got a spare if you want it )

The 10 amp on will run both the Hudi, and the Tyre Razor at the same time.

The 30 amp one runs any kind of cars on my 3 lanes, and for the price of the adjustable ones your looking at you could buy 4 or more of these, buy 2, use one for the track, one for the tyre truers, and it's also a spare for the track.

Whilst these power supplies do work well, there is one very major caveat that should be mentioned.

 

To be legal, these power supplies need to be wired up by an electrician, and placed inside another 'container'.

To be at least safe, they should be in a plastic 'hobby' box...

 

240v on exposed screw terminals is definitely a recipe for disaster...

 

 

Correct, and easily done, I just got the sparky at work to set it up.

 

Jason, just get the sparky that did your shed to set one up.

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Hi Racers,

 

Yeah nah yeah nah Arkin mate, I’ve got two words for ya bud!

THREE PHASE!!! Wotrutalkinbout ya drugo you say!

 

Why bother with those small 10A-30A power supplies mate,Wouldn’t you rather something big like this hey...

 

PROS:

Great power!

You never get cold in winter.

You can jump start a small ship or a VK with it.

 

CONS:

Braids don’t last as long!

Too hot in summer!

If you have a dead short on your track it turns into a small fire in no time!

IMG_5378_zps2teikbt8.jpg

Yeah nah yeah nah mate its not for you!

  • Upvote 1

HAVE FUN....Keep it in the slot!!?

RacerXCustoms2012.gif Racer X

http://racerxcustoms@hotmail.com.au

@PeterDimmers

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Drivers stands

9E4E6DD8-9175-4343-B2A6-CA6203701A2E_zpsva9our3u.jpg

And now to clean up the room and get into some racing I do need a couple more polycarbonate strips in some corners and 4 track cleaning cars for family friends to use when we get visitors but it's finally DONE😀

 


Race Ya Later

 

Jason

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The brains

CC41DDD4-60C8-4C91-A524-821C4114A8CD_zpstvkc3b27.jpg

Ahhh, cabling art...

Love it...

 

 

ps. The track looks great too...

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An excellent build. It was extremely interesting to follow your progress. Where are you up to now? I assume everything is cleaned up and you've done quite a few laps, races etc. How's it holding up? Any video available.

Regards,

WoodSlot.

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The track looks fantastic.

 

Soooo pleased you went with the Johnson timing system!!! I have Garry's system on my 1:24 track and, due to it being 3 lane and Garry's system only going down to 4, Race Coordinator on the 1:32 track. Garry's system is rock solid but I've have had to cancel 2x 1:32 meets so far due to timing crashes once racing starts. Not happy!!!

 

I'm now waiting on Axeman to help put a solid interface together for Race Coordinator. The Arduino setup is a nightmare.

 

Your track is a credit to you!!! I hope you have plenty to share it with.

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Trackmate interface with Race Coordinator has been flawless on my track over the years Mark.


Hoo Roo

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Agreed.

 

There are no issues with race coordinator itself.

 

The issue with the arduino's are to do with the low quality USB-COM chip on the arduino itself, and no ammount of coding will resolve that.

Running high quality usb cables will limit the 'lost connection to track' errors, but the usb port itself is also often to blame.

Adding ferrite filters on the inputs, and a capacitor on the track rails, will reduce glitch laps from noisy motors...

 

Again, these are hardware issues, not race coordinator issues.

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