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recently I have been making a few slot cars using resin bodies

 

when it comes to painting and applying decals and then clear coats I have had problems

 

Pattos decals ......which clear coat will not affect them?

 

Enamel paint .....which clear coat will not affect it ?

 

Acrylic paint as in (water based from crash repairer ) which clear coat ?

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Pattos decals - dont clear coat them !!! there is a floor polish that works ok but cant remember the name

enamel - will be glossy anyway

acrylic - any hobby clears will do

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I have started to move away from a final clear coat for various reasons, mostly that with lots of handling some paints will become tacky from finger acid.

 

I now dip the body into some floor polish then leave to harden.

 

Don't get me wrong I still apply a thin clear to seal the paintwork.

 

If you are using a clear finish I would suggest that once painted the colour you want leave for 2-7 days no matter if it is acrylic or enamel.

 

Then coat very lightly with clear to seal the paint, especially metallic colours as they can soak into the decals.

 

Once cured apply decals, then another thin coat of clear to seal decals.

 

When cured dip in floor polish, there is a lot of discussion as to which is best, I use some from Long Life from Bunnings it works fine.

 

Soak up drips with paper towel by dabbing them as required without touching body.

 

Leave to cure about two days.

 

As for brands of clear, a lot of people use Tamiya, I have too and it is good but expensive, a cheaper option is Dulux or Rust'o'leum, the latter being my favourite paint mainly because they have traditional (50's) colours as well as clear.

 

Hope this helps you.


Cheers Grant

20191120172309-193d8f3b.gif.......................................................20170306174707-b4015afe.gif

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I have started to move away from a final clear coat for various reasons, mostly that with lots of handling some paints will become tacky from finger acid.

 

I now dip the body into some floor polish then leave to harden.

 

Don't get me wrong I still apply a thin clear to seal the paintwork.

 

If you are using a clear finish I would suggest that once painted the colour you want leave for 2-7 days no matter if it is acrylic or enamel.

 

Then coat very lightly with clear to seal the paint, especially metallic colours as they can soak into the decals.

 

Once cured apply decals, then another thin coat of clear to seal decals.

 

When cured dip in floor polish, there is a lot of discussion as to which is best, I use some from Long Life from Bunnings it works fine.

 

Soak up drips with paper towel by dabbing them as required without touching body.

 

Leave to cure about two days.

 

As for brands of clear, a lot of people use Tamiya, I have too and it is good but expensive, a cheaper option is Dulux or Rust'o'leum, the latter being my favourite paint mainly because they have traditional (50's) colours as well as clear.

 

Hope this helps you.

thanks buddy I have always tried it all on a test model and this time the autocolor clear showed that pattos decals dont like it so went ahead with Testors brand thinking it was safe but 30% of the decals have shown stress

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I always use tamiya paint and clear and have done for over 20 yrs mostly on models

yes it costs more but I have never had a problem with it and has a very smooth spray with a nice finish straight out of the can

 

I paint the colour sanding with 1200 grit wet and dry under running water and then a coat and clear leave to set

give a the clear a quick sand then apply the decals

with Patto's decals I always give them a good coat of testors decal sealer before cutting the sheet, this is a must in my book

this will help prevent wrinkling

leave the decals at least 24 hrs to dry and set

I then lay a very very light coat of clear

if you get wrinkles you are putting to much clear on

you can keep a eye on the decals and if they wrinkle a little and the paint has gone toudh dry but still soft

you can smooth them out by softly rubbing over them with a clean dry coton bud

when dry I brush 2 coats a floor polish at about 1 hr between coats

use a bigish brush with very soft brissles

you can air brush the floor polish which is the best way to apply it but I don't have a compressor at the moment

 

I have tried dulux paint in the past and it took several days to even get touch dry

that my have been a bad batch but it has put me off

 

everyone will have there favorite paint brands and methods

this is just how I like to to it and it works well for me with no hassels

Edited by David Carter
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Holdens rule the rest just drool

 

slot cars are my drug,

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When I was using Pattos decals I would seal them with Testors Decal Bonder it is different to the clear coat.

The Floor polish will absorb moisture from handling, just like some of the model clears.

Auto acrylic clear is one of the harder clear finished,but does néed care when applying it over Psttos decals, very dry coat and allow to dry out completely before flow coating.

Over the years I have tested most finishes including floor polish from overseas, nothing is as good as Auto clear.

The newer Auto paints are even harder, but caution is needed.

Best clear coat to use over any paint is the same brand in most cases.

 


Phil

 

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Are you using waterslide or peel'n'stick decals? I went back to peel'n'stick decals, and don't have a problem with them "frying" like I had with waterslide. But if I did use waterslide ,put Testors on first then enamel clear coated them .

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Hi,

 

New to painting, what is a good brand of paint and clear ? Tamiya is a bit pricey for me, is there any decent budget brands which do a decent job ?

 

Ive been using Supercheap export aerosol spray can on inserts they have come out quite good, not sure if good enough to do a car body ?

 

thanks

 

 

Export Aerosol Paint

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I'm a bit tight when it comes to paint myself.

I use the cheap Fiddly Bits grey primer, Squirts white undercoat and Squirts (any colour Top coat) and the Squirts Clear Gloss.

Comes up a treat, but won't have the full range of colours available like the Tamiya paints.

Here's an example of the red from the Squirts range.

45492128264_0529a65f00_o_d.jpg  

Must say though everything went right when painting these Revell Ferrari's

Matt

 

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I've always used the PowerPlus cans from Supercheap, but will probably have a dip at some of the Squirts range after looking at that.

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Thanks for the replies guys, those Ferrari's look very impressive.

 

Ive just ordered a Ferrari 250 LM from area71

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