Backo Posted October 16, 2016 Report Share Posted October 16, 2016 Gday I have some resin casts on the way from Munter (cheers mate, I cant wait for these to turn up), and I have been looking into making some brass chassis'. Can anyone recommend somewhere to obtain a chassis jig in Aus? What solder and flux are you brass experts using? Just a plain 60/40? Or a quality silver solder and acid flux? Are there any basic websites to give good ideas and advice for beginners? Cheers, Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangermouse Posted October 16, 2016 Report Share Posted October 16, 2016 Where are you located Sam? May be someone nearby who dabbles in making their own brass chassis. I picked up one of the honeycomb ceramic blocks to use as a chassis jig - Like this one on eBay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ceramic-Honeycomb-Soldering-Block-Plate-Jewellers-Heat-Proof-Board-135x95x13mm-/322111596327?hash=item4aff58e727:g:08kAAOSw74FXOuvZ Jewellery shops have them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazza Posted October 16, 2016 Report Share Posted October 16, 2016 Check out some of Chris Clark's creations The 24th scale Ferrari has some chassis build photos Quote Quickly read this post before it is deleted or i turn grey again Gary http://www.facebook.com/Rallyproxy2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kalbfellp Posted October 16, 2016 Report Share Posted October 16, 2016 (edited) I use normal 60/40 solder most of the time,with Bakers Flux. If you look at the VRAA and IPS threads you will see plenty of scratchbuilt chassis. As you are just starting out, you could use a piece of MDF maker out with axle lines and a center line. Drill some pin holes and used nails with the heads removed. This will be OK for a couple of chassis. That way you will not be spending a lot of money if you decide scratchbuilding is not for you. I have seen a lot of guys buy jigs and try one chassis and give up. Edited October 16, 2016 by kalbfellp Quote Phil https://www.hobartminiaturecarclub.com/ Email Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Backo Posted October 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2016 (edited) Thanks for the tips. DM, I'm in Molong, NSW. There is a club in Dubbo, but I'm yet to head over there and meet them. Well I went and bought some tube and flux and gave myself a crash course in soldering tube last night. It turned out ok, and strong, but have decided that I need a slightly larger heat torch. The solder didn't flow as well as I wanted around the back of the joint. The one I was using is a cigar lighter and was just a bit small and my butane soldering iron isn't good enough to get the job done. It's more suited to automotive wiring for which it was designed. I have also discovered that a fine hacksaw is still too course for such small tube. I now have on my shopping list: Dremel tool (I need one of these badly) and assorted fittings. Larger butane torch Brass stock Ceramic honeycomb plate. Axles, bearings, motor plates etc. So pretty much everything!! Edited October 18, 2016 by Backo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZeGas Posted October 18, 2016 Report Share Posted October 18, 2016 Please keep posting I am interested how you go I'm looking to try soon as well, just got some brass tube today for a fly mod project, but would love to have a go at chassis building in the future. Will follow with interest. Quote Cheers Grant . Home Track..........Corvette C1 Build..........McLaren M1A Build..........Maserati 300S Build..........Allard J2 Build..........50's Diner..........Iso Griffo A3C 3D Printed Adjustable Chassis..........3D Print Projects If life gives you lemons, take them, free s#!t is cool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Backo Posted October 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2016 I will do ZeGas. At this stage it will only be practice on the tube stock I have, until I have the time to sit down and properly design a chassis next month. I have holidays in a couple of weeks with the family, heading up north to the coast. Mr 3yo has never seen the ocean, so a beach holiday is in order. I'll organise a new torch this week and get some more practice in before going away though. But you are more than welcome to post your progress in here, I think the comparisons would be beneficial to us both. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Backo Posted October 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2016 A quick question for the experienced, how do you go about choosing the gauge of rods for the main chassis rails and braces? Is there a standard that you would start out with, using trial and error until the chassis flexes just right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kalbfellp Posted October 18, 2016 Report Share Posted October 18, 2016 Depending on what sort of car you are building. But general rule is the two main rails are 55 or 63 though piano wire. As I said look at the IPS, Tasman and VRAA car tech for ideas. Quote Phil https://www.hobartminiaturecarclub.com/ Email Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
munter Posted October 19, 2016 Report Share Posted October 19, 2016 And buy a cheap iron instead of the torch...60watt from SCA Quote John Warren Slotcars are my preferred reality Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexis in greece Posted October 19, 2016 Report Share Posted October 19, 2016 (edited) I use 1.5 mm rod (piano wire)for the rails. I would not change my torch for anything Edited October 19, 2016 by alexis in greece Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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