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dangermouse

Nc-1 Motor Replacement

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Evening all

 

What is out there as an economical replacement for the NC-1 motor something that is 13500 - 14000 rpm @ 12v Fc-130 mabuchi

 

I am currently using - Ninco 1 motors, BWA motors, M/T 1 motors. These are becoming a bit harder to acquire these days.

 

So I am now looking for alternatives and would appreciate any suggestions.

 

cheers

David

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Hi David MT1 motors are still listed by Slot car corner as being in stock if that helps at all, but again it may be the postage that's to B expensive.

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A topic thats very close to my heart!

 

We run the BWA NC1 motor in our little group and through dodgy lines of supply we are now starting to look further afield.

 

Has anyone tried the H&R "Jack Rabbit" motor? Not as economical the BWA but seemingly more readily available through Electric Dreams.

 

Just as a thought whats wrong with running lower voltage in the cars, say, turning down to 10v and using the standard scaley motor?

Is that a suitable alternative?

 

Is it damaging to the motors to only have 10 volts running through them?

Edited by terry

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Thanks Peter - yeah postage is not our friends :(

plus I haven't found any of my M/T 1 motored cars to be as responsive as an NC-1 - perhaps I need to gear them differently but we don't encourage that in the NC1 class

 

cheers

David

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Hi Terry

 

on SF a few people are mentioned the 14k H&R motor - I will look into them. Part of the problem is we have people with NC1 cars already set up (we run 3 NC1 classes) but newer folks can't always access cars with NC1 motors in them - hence they pick up a 356 or cobra with an NC5 and then have to replace the motor -

 

problem with turning volts down is all the motor swapping and the fact that the standard scaley motor isn't standard - ones I have tested range between 18k and 22k so with power turned down someone could have a 12k motor and another is 16k

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Hi Terry

 

on SF a few people are mentioned the 14k H&R motor - I will look into them. Part of the problem is we have people with NC1 cars already set up (we run 3 NC1 classes) but newer folks can't always access cars with NC1 motors in them - hence they pick up a 356 or cobra with an NC5 and then have to replace the motor -

 

 

I think you'll find the H&R 14k Jack Rabbit will have a bit more punch than an NC1 but they are pretty true to 14k and they are good motors. We had a pre 65 series with these motors and it was a lot of fun and they don't cost the earth although the AU and NZ dollar have lost a bit of ground on the US dollar of late.


bram1_zpsfkhrhndv.jpg

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I think the only thing against the NINCO NC1 is the price - in NZ $28-$38. The BWA NC1 is only $5 in Canada. Only problem is poor service from stockist or so I am

told

 

Have seen MT on SCC but do not recall the price. Presume still in stock.

 

Not sure how consistent BWA motors are or NINCO NC1 for that matter. The 1xNC1 and 1xNC8 I have are very similar but the 1xBWA I have is in my Vanwall and seems down on power compared to other VRAA cars.

 

For what it is worth.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton (charlesx)

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The H&R Jack rabbit is a great motor.

Unfortunately, it has nearly double the torque of the others, and as such, will tend to dominate.

 

In fact at 3w, it is equivalent of a srp 16k motor, which has more revs, but less torque.

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Unfortunately SRP motors are also getting hard to get. Local supplier only seems to have F050 18000rpm. I have tried SRP FC130 14000 and it was no match for NINCO NC1.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton

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David, this might be of interest to you. - https://www.aliexpre...1698381052.html - The English isn't the best but it does say standard 130 motor and the shipping price is pretty hard to beat.

 

and here are what look like standard 18k Scaley motors - http://www.ebay.com/...64AAOSwZVlXnsS7


bram1_zpsfkhrhndv.jpg

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Lowering the track voltage is a far simpler and cheaper option than swapping motors.

 

Our club went down the road of NC1/MT1/BWA motor classes. It ended up that the fast guys bought 10 motors to find the 1 fast motor, increasing cost dramatically for anyone wanting to compete.

 

Standard motors also tend to be more consistent, like NC5's supplied in Ninco classics, so running them at a lower voltage makes much more sense.

 

Lower voltages won't harm motors, I do it for the kids all the time with all kinds of motors and have never had an issue.

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Turning the voltage down isn't an option as that would mean most of us would need to re motor our current cars which have NC1 in them. :)

 

Aside from racing NC1 cars as a class - I also do lots of resin kits of classic GP and sports cars so I am looking for a motor that is lower in revs and comparable to the NC1/BWA but is a little more readily available at a good price. I got lucky when I saw Pendle slot had a couple of NC8 on special at 8quid each - but I would prefer to be paying $5-10 per motor rather than $20+

 

cheers

David

Edited by dangermouse

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From Russia with love :)

 

mind you, the DP-1 labels might cost more to get printed than the motors they go on


bram1_zpsfkhrhndv.jpg

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We certainly have been spoilt by the BWA NC1 motor!

 

Price and performance, its a great little motor, pity about that, but now its time to search for a replacement,

 

interestingly we had the chance to have a club night last week and Steve dragged out an older Scaley F1, the Parmalat Brabham BT49(??) anyway the piquet car, the car was fitted with the original Johnson motor, decent tyres and new braids and it competed very well against the BWA motored cars, once fitted with a proper guide I'm sure it will be more than competitive,

 

Anybody have any old scalextric Johnson motors they want to sell

Edited by terry

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Turning the voltage down isn't an option as that would mean most of us would need to re motor our current cars which have NC1 in them. :)

 

Aside from racing NC1 cars as a class - I also do lots of resin kits of classic GP and sports cars so I am looking for a motor that is lower in revs and comparable to the NC1/BWA but is a little more readily available at a good price. I got lucky when I saw Pendle slot had a couple of NC8 on special at 8quid each - but I would prefer to be paying $5-10 per motor rather than $20+

 

cheers

David

I agree, buying another motor is an expense most don't like to bear. In my experience, limited as it is, keeping class rules as close to "out of the box" is more likely to attract new racers than having to change motors.

 

Periodically it is worthwhile revising class rules closer to what is being supplied by commercial manufacturers to maintain interest and viability.

 

IMO you'd be best off changing to a control motor available in the longer term, like a Slot It Orange Can, NSR Shark etc and reduce track voltage.

 

Good luck in satisfying the majority, there will always be the minority who are never pleased :)

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Caddo, are you still running the "NC1" classes?

 

What motor are you using for that class?

Edited by terry

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We're running 6 classes at the moment, mostly podded.

We found the NC1 classes the most expensive to try and get competitive. Motors,gears, rims, axles all normally needed changing.

The 6 classes we are running are:

 

GT3 21500rpm max

GROUP C 21500rpm max

PRE 75 Slot It NSR LM classics 21500rpm max

Touring Car Masters 18000rpm max

 

OPEN SPORTS no rpm limit

GROUP 5 no rpm limit

 

These cars are generally good out of the box, and make it cheap and easy for new racers to join in.

If we have a few rookies at a meet, its easy to just turn down the voltage.

 

Hows the central coast racing scene going?

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Unfortunately SRP motors are also getting hard to get. Local supplier only seems to have F050 18000rpm. I have tried SRP FC130 14000 and it was no match for NINCO NC1.

 

Regards Chas Le Breton

 

PSR have SRPs...........

 

http://www.pendleslo...bell-drive.html

Edited by Roger Miller

...............Take it easy

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http://www.slotcarco...Motor-p745.html

 

 

http://www.darthobbies.com/Tech/Low%20Power%20Motor%20Comparison%20Chart%20v1.pdf

 

 

slide down to motors...........................

 

http://www.darthobbies.com/132parts.htm

Edited by Roger Miller

...............Take it easy

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We're running 6 classes at the moment, mostly podded.

We found the NC1 classes the most expensive to try and get competitive. Motors,gears, rims, axles all normally needed changing.

The 6 classes we are running are:

 

GT3 21500rpm max

GROUP C 21500rpm max

PRE 75 Slot It NSR LM classics 21500rpm max

Touring Car Masters 18000rpm max

 

OPEN SPORTS no rpm limit

GROUP 5 no rpm limit

 

These cars are generally good out of the box, and make it cheap and easy for new racers to join in.

If we have a few rookies at a meet, its easy to just turn down the voltage.

 

Hows the central coast racing scene going?

 

We're going okay, seem to have a regular 4-5-6 each race night, just depends on who's doing what on the night as to who turns up, our racing is good and hard with some great classes,

 

Ninco Sports/GT , the old Ninco NC1 cars leaving the mag in but using the BWA motor

F1, up to 1985 cars(I think) using the BWA motor but after our last meet considering the Johnson111 motor as well

GT3, Scaley,SCX,Carrera GT3 cars using as supplied motors

Group C SlotIt group c cars, standard running gear BWA motor

Sports Sedans modified 2 & 4 door cars, no coupes, up to 70mm wide, any chassis and config, BWA motors

Muscle cars, typically Camaro,Mustangs,Barracuda, Chargers, etc running as supplied motors

 

As you can see a big reliance on the BWA motor, we will have to change that for the future,cannot stress enough that trading with Dart will definitely end in tears, Steves' order now 4 months old and no sign of goods!

Edited by terry

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If you can find some MT/1's it'd probably pay to grab them while they're available. I've bought MT/1's directly from his website but that's disappeared so he's possibly finished with it.


bram1_zpsfkhrhndv.jpg

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