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Wobble

Sideways Beemer 320 Width

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Recently I was given a box full of slot stuff and amongst it was a Revell Ronnie Petterson BMW 320. As the body is in pretty good nick I figured I'd mount it on a Sideways 320 chassis so I ordered one. Now it has occured to me that the dimensions may not be the same.

 

If someone has one handy could you please measure the width of the rear axle and at the rear arches. I figure that'd be the widest point. Also, the thought has just crossed my mind that the wheelbase would be handy to know too. I'm sure a bit of nip and tuck should take care of the rest of it.

Edited by Wobble

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Mine was in your possession at the proxy. Check out slotcar.co.nz he has measurements on website


2019 NZ RTR Nationals Gt 3rd

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2017 NZ RTR Nationals Group C 3rd

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Mine was in your possession at the proxy. Check out slotcar.co.nz he has measurements on website

 

 

Thanks branco, didn't realise he did that, that's where the chassis is coming from.

2mm wider than Revell and wheelbase about 1mm longer will be easy to hide as the Revell front wheels sit a bit behind center.


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The chassis arrived today and the Sideways version is about 2mm longer and 3mm wider. It'll need about 1mm taken off all around the front and 1.5 mm along each side but the rear will need the most work. Should be pretty straight forward. Even the Revell guide is a nice snug fit after a bit of a trim. As this will be a budget build even the front wheels will be used on a wider axle and the rears turned down for inserts.

 

5ebe9317-6c08-4523-89c3-00de4c4661c7_zpsbegcntha.jpg

Edited by Wobble

bram1_zpsfkhrhndv.jpg

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Interesting...

 

Are the wheelbases the same?

 

 

Looking forward to your post conversion thoughts...

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Interesting...

 

Are the wheelbases the same?

 

 

Looking forward to your post conversion thoughts...

 

the wheelbase is about 1mm longer on the Sideways version but the Revell front wheel appears to be sitting slightly rear ward in the car anyway, unless that was peculiar to the Ronnie Peterson one I have


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Before and after trimming. Taken back to the lines on the sides of the pans, front trimmed about 1mm and shaped but most of the work is at the rear. Also, I trimmed out the inside of the rear of the body by about 1mm.

 

7b74266e-f08b-4dad-996f-a4d68cee6e58_zpsizyd5lv7.jpg

Edited by Wobble

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Slot.It sidewinder pod, Piranha motor, Slot.It 16.5x8 short hubs, a nice size for using the original hubs as inserts and 10's would be a bit wide, body posts next

 

915e0908-dfb7-43f4-a9f3-78fe6466b94f_zpsc5j4abbi.jpg

Edited by Wobble

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Nice Bram - a good running mate for the Escort...

 

This'll eat the pants off the Escort when it's done. After I loaded the side view photo I noticed the bonnet wasn't sitting down properly so it had to come off and get re-glued. There's a ton of unnecessary meat under the bonnet in these things that had to go


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Michael makes mental note: Need to check Revell's for 'fatness'...

 

ps. What did you get the body weight down to?

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Michael makes mental note: Need to check Revell's for 'fatness'...

 

ps. What did you get the body weight down to?

 

It's now 24gm Michael, and that includes removal of extra fat under bonnet and bonnet and grill glued in with super glue, removal of original front and rear body posts, tail lights and modified chrome bar behind tail lights glued in with canopy glue, center of glass removed and windows glued in with canopy glue and 2 new body posts added. This doen't include an interior as one didn't arrive with the car so will need to be fabricated. The total weight of the car is 75gm without interior.


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Wow, that's a serious diet...

Glad it wasn't me on the table...

 

 

Wait, who am I kidding...

Sign me up... 30% off sounds like a good starting point to me...

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ready for tussle time, and a simple interior tray brings it up to 79gm

 

bf8c91f4-9140-42bd-aa92-42490b08e887_zpsgeoqsvtq.jpg

Edited by Wobble

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Hhhmm, I have a Jagermeister version of this sitting on my workbench to be prepared right now. I also have a Warteiner version that runs very, very nicely with minimal preparation (some body float, urethane tyres glued & trued, weight... and that's about it!). I was thinking of doing the same on this car but what you have done has given me second thoughts. I still intend keeping the original front motor Revell chassis but I can do some serious weight reduction plus maybe metal wheels...

 

I will have to think about this....

 

Cheers

 

Alwyn

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Thanks for your feedback and +ve comments guys.

 

shadow_rusty - 30% off sounds like it'd be good for me too. The Doc told me I've gotta forget about all my favourite foods.

 

Capri-corn7 - full engine bay detail in my book is 1 body post

 

SuperSlab - I'm sure you'll give the Beemer the Midas touch.

 

In my neck of the woods Group5 is a helter skelter class with long straights and not too many corners so it's 'go quick or go home'. I've got another of these that is sitting on a Sideways Capri chassis which I entered in a Group 5 proxy series in 2014 and it finished midfield overall. It's time I looked at that again too but I have to finish my Fly Montecarlo upgrade 1st.

Edited by Wobble

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We are running a Sports Sedan Series next year, so this build has me looking at a Revell I have had on the shelf for years.

Black JPS?

 

Gotta be better on the track than the shelf Phil.


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SuperSlab - I'm sure you'll give the Beemer the Midas touch.

Thanks for the confidence Bram but in this case I think it might be more like the sadiM touch (AKA the reverse Midas touch: you know: when everything you touch turns to.... not gold.)

 

In the end I decided to stick with my preferred approach and keep everything as stock as possible. So the stock axles and wheels remain. I have a second one of these that runs rather well in that condition so I will try it and see how it goes. What I did do:

 

* Used the Slot.it chassis baking trick to straighten it out (it was quite twisted for some reason)

* B-Nova guide adapter plus Slot.it universal screw in guide plus soft NSR braid

* Trimmed the chassis for float. This includes removing the "cups" on the body mounting positions as this tends to lock the body/chassis in place. Replaced body mounting screws with smooth shank screws for free movement.

* Ground off the bits that stick out below the chassis. This includes the motor "cage", the screw hole for holding the car in the display case and the crown gear "cover". I did this because I was contemplating lowering the car somewhat: other than the motor section this turned out to not really have been necessary.

* Glued the motor in position and removed all the suppression bits.

* Glued and trued urethanes on the stock axle/wheel set.

* Ground out the "clips" that hold the front axle bushings in place, set the car at the correct ride height and glued the bushings in position. The front tyres now just touch the track.

* Removed the big, heavy interior and replaced with a black card tray with half the original driver glued in place.I cut off the dashboard off the interior and glued that in place: looks a bit more "finished" that way.

* Ground out all surplus material high up in the body and removed the chrome piece that held the rear lights in place.

* Added about 10g of lead low down in the chassis just in front of the rear axle.

 

The front now runs a bit lower: the stance is rather nice. I will be talking it to the track for our regular Monday night racing. I am also taking my Racer 320 along for comparison: while I am hoping the R-M 320 will go reasonably well it would obviously be hopelessly optimistic to think it would be competitive with the much more sophisticated (and rear motored!) Racer but I thought it would be interesting to see how they compare in behaviour.

 

Will let you know how it goes.

 

Cheers

 

Alwyn

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So I can now report that the 320 runs... OK. Not bad, not great but OK. Last night at the track I got it down to a 7.5 second lap. I suppose most of our group would be quite satisfied to get for instance a Slot.it to do that kind of time so maybe I am just being too optimistic. The contrast however was with my Racer 320 I also had at the track last night: that I got down to pretty much 6.9 seconds on the nose: now THAT is quick. Actually that is very, very quick bordering on obscenely fast.

 

So in fairness to the R-M 320 and for some perspective: we raced two groups of open class cars yesterday evening. And over the course of the evening really not many people got under 7.5 seconds with any car (including some NSR 917's), so I really should be satisfied with 7.5 with an essentially stock front engined R-M car. My dissatisfaction is not so much with the lap times I got but more with the fact that it is not totally smooth and quiet. Not sure where the noise comes from: I suspect the front wheels are not properly true and there is just a bit too much slop in the stock rear axle/bushings.

 

Oh well: it really is a good thing to have some challenges and more improvements to try: keeps us on our toes and engaged!

 

Cheers

 

Alwyn

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Did you change the spring?

If not, that could be causing some of the noise.

 

Best bet is press fit brass tube, but I use the plastic inner from an OfficeMax pen.

The plastic will generally not press on square, so I run the motor at ~2v, and apply a little heat to it, and it will straighten up nicely...

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Did you change the spring?

If not, that could be causing some of the noise.

 

Best bet is press fit brass tube, but I use the plastic inner from an OfficeMax pen.

The plastic will generally not press on square, so I run the motor at ~2v, and apply a little heat to it, and it will straighten up nicely...

Good question. No, I have not replaced the spring. While by no means conclusive: I have two other R-M front engine cars (a Warsteiner 320 and a Greenwood Corvette) that both also still have the spring and neither make the same noise as far as I remember. The noise is more of a rattling than what I believe a spring noise is. My suspicion is that the front wheels are out of round and this sets up a rattle between the (rather loosely floating) body and the chassis as there is quite an overlap along the sides. But this is a suspicion only mind you.

 

Either way: I will have to take my 3 R-M cars to the track and do some investigation. Note that on several of my other front engine cars (typically Flys) I replaced the spring with some vinyl tubing: I clearly may have to do this here as well.

 

Thanks for the reminder!

 

Cheers

 

Alwyn

 

PS: I just quickly ran up both my R-M 320s on my test block: if anything the drivetrain of the Jager one is smoother and more quiet than my Warsteiner one. Still not conclusive but does not appear like a massive issue there. But testing will tell in the end!

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Seems to me Alwyn, you know how to work the cars on the track as well as the work bench.

I'll have to wait another week to find out how my Beemer goes as the track I race at it out of action.

Edited by Wobble

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