Just Got Myself Some Digital Sets. All Good But A Weird Problem With Digital Curves

[FIREWIRE1394]

I made a post on here about a year ago in the introductions. Since then, I picked up a tonne of SCX stuff (both digital and analogue)... restored it all lovingly.. then sold it all!! about 3 weeks ago, I sold the last of all my SCX stuff, ready to start for real..

 

This is the fruits of all the hours of fun restoring and then selling stuff:

 

The sets and pit lane track were from Armchair racer. (Who I will be shopping with again)

The pit building and control tower were from Hornsby slot cars, along with some cars (they did them for $45 each)

The digital chips and pit crews were from 2 shops in Shepparton (there's a hobby store a 2 minute walk from a slot car shop)

The footbridge and catalogue were from metro hobbies... Who I will not be shopping with again.

 

 

These are the cars I've been slowly piling up since I got my first 2 mclaren mp4's. I've been getting cases from various places over the year.

Only car that isn't scalextric is a Ninco mclaren F1 which I will be turning to digital and getting new tyres for eventually.

 

 

 

My most recent lot from the UK. Arrived today. Some long discontinued Lane change curves, along with some other things thrown into the order for cheap.

There's a few weird things that I'm not complaining about.. Like some of the cars in the digital sets simply not having magnets.. (I thought all modern Scalextric cars were supposed to have magnets?)

I look forward to building up a nice track and contributing to the forums as much as I can now I have a nice start

 

But I was wondering if anyone is using lane change curves and come across a problem I am having with them, and maybe know of a solution..

All of these were just taken right out of brand new seals..

 

The left hand curves (c7007, c7009) work perfectly, No problems at all and I can't wait to include them in a track..

BUT the right hand ones (c7008, c7010) work when I plug the power in, for a single change, then just won't work again until the power is pulled out and replugged.

They do this on both the 4 car powerbase, and the Advanced power base. IT'S ODD that they work a single time, then just forget to be lane changers.

 

Before I return the faulty ones, Does anyone have any tips or tricks before I mail them back to bloody England for a refund?

 

Thanks for reading!

[chris99]

Hi,

I've got some of these Spanish lane changers from the UK and they are all fine.

 

If you manually push the flipper to change and then run a car over the sensor, does the flipper move to straight on?

Edited August 30, 2016 by chris99

[FIREWIRE1394]

Hi,

I've got some of these Spanish lane changers from the UK and they are all fine.

 

If you manually push the flipper to change and then run a car over the sensor, does the flipper move to straight on?

 

Thanks for the reply. And no, when I manually change the flipper, it just stays put how it was untill the power is reset.

The fact only the right hand ones, and both of them are doing it makes me think something is up.

 

Next on my problem solving quest I will try the sensor tracks from the working left hand units to see if that works.

[chris99]

If the flippers only move one way, then one pin may have slipped out of the solenoid. Take the back panel off (underneath the curved track piece) and have a look. It's fiddly but doable to put it back in - the pins just sit loose in either end of the solenoid .

Edited August 30, 2016 by chris99

[FIREWIRE1394]

If the flippers only move one way then one end of the solenoid pin may have come out. Take the back panel off and have a look. It's fiddly but doable to put it back in.

 

I have one apart right now. I can't see anything physically wrong it, but I'm not exactly sure what I'm doing ahah.

 

I can race around for 10 minutes, and they'll stay letting me in the same lane, I can change lanes one time, then it just stays there and won't activate again untill a power reset.

It's got me stumpped, which is why I thought I'd ask.

[chris99]

If you push the flipper back to straight, will it change a second time without a power reset?

 

This is from an XLC but it should look something like this if the pins are still inserted correctly in the black plastic tab (between the two solenoids)

 

 

 

Another thing to check is if any wires are loose like this one (link)

Edited August 30, 2016 by chris99

[FIREWIRE1394]

I've given both a quick look over, all the wires are in tact, and movement is all free, the solenoids are connected and appear to be perfect.

 

I've put some WD40 on the moving parts (that's been my best friend in slot car restoration ahaha) I will attempt to test again tomorrow night, after some real car work..

If I can't find an answer, or magically get them working myself within a day I will have to send them back..

 

Another thought I had, On the boxes, they are rated for 12 volts, but the digital sets use 15.. this may be overloading and them staying cut as protection, But that doesn't explain why the other 2 worked perfectly for an hour.

 

It's doing my head in. But on the plus side, I got 4 of my cars chipped while I was stuffing around with the screwdriver.

[chris99]

Digital powerbases are 15v input, but don't output that much to the track. In any case, lane changers are specifically designed to work with Scalextric digital powerbases and they are tolerant of slightly higher voltages so I don't think voltage is your problem.

 

For info they do have a re-settable fuse inside which triggers if there's an overload - then it needs a powerbase restart to reset it (or disconnect/ reconnect the lane changer from the track).

It shouldn't trigger unless you push it to the limit, like running 6 cars over the sensor constantly for 10 mins on a small oval (I've done it when testing something else).

 

Sounds like they might be defective but it's unusual in my experience. The only other straw I can offer is that fluorescent lighting or oblique sunlight can mess with the sensors for the lane changers.

Edited August 30, 2016 by chris99

[FIREWIRE1394]

Digital powerbases are 15v input, but don't output that much to the track. In any case, lane changers are specifically designed to work with Scalextric digital powerbases and they are tolerant of slightly higher voltages so I don't think voltage is your problem.

 

For info they do have a re-settable fuse inside which triggers if there's an overload - then it needs a powerbase restart to reset it (or disconnect/ reconnect the lane changer from the track).

It shouldn't trigger unless you push it to the limit, like running 6 cars over the sensor constantly for 10 mins on a small oval (I've done it when testing something else).

 

Sounds like they might be defective but it's unusual in my experience. The only other straw I can offer is that fluorescent lighting or oblique sunlight can mess with the sensors for the lane changers.

 

Aha. it could be this fuse being a wee bit sensitive then.

 

I wasn't pushing anything to the limit.. 1 car, about 20 pieces of track, 4 second laps. I was simply testing them.

 

How would I go about bypassing this fuse?

[chris99]

Not a good idea as there may be a fault somewhere which is triggering the fuse and bypassing it is highly likely to end up blowing things up.

Afraid I'm not an electical expert.

Edited August 30, 2016 by chris99

[FIREWIRE1394]

Well I've magically got one of them working.

One though. I got 5 laps in and same problem. I can see why they discontinued the f#%*@%g things.

 

It makes no sense whatsoever to be working fine, then magically die for no reason when everything else is working perfectly all night.

 

I could put them in my track if I only ever plan on having 5 lap races.. Great investment these were!!

[branco]

Just a quick question...are you using 2 power supply transformers or just 1?

2 is good.

[mattcrackers]

Hi,

 

Looks like you have the gooods for the start of a great layout.

 

The Scalextric lane change track pieces do not reset to the original position once you change lanes.

 

If you are going to change lanes and hold the button down to do so you will change lanes but the flipper will not reset,

 

On the next time round if you go through the same lane changer and do not press the lane change button the car will go straight through.

 

The lane changers can be a bit temperamental at first, especially if you are setting up and pulling your track down.

 

Digital needs good conductivity to allow the cars, lane changers etc to flow freely,

 

If you haven't got yourself a can of Inox MX3 yet head down to your local Bunnings and grab some.

 

Spray a little bit onto a rag and wipe it on the RAILS ONLY, you will be amazed how much better and smoother your track and cars will feel.

 

There is also a problem you may come across running some of your cars in Analogue mode with the curved lane changers (CLC's),

 

Without the CLC modification your track will be set as as having one continuous lane, not the 2 separate lanes as needed for Analogue,

 

a stuff up by Scalextric here but easily fixed, have a look here http://www.slotforum...topic=50259&hl=

 

This is a video by Mr Flippant regarding how to do the modification, it will not damage your track in any way, it will probably void any warranty though.

 

Without this modification you can't run 2 cars in analogue mode on your digital track with the CLC's in place.

 

Hope some of this helps you out.

 

cheers

 

Matt

[FIREWIRE1394]

Just a quick question...are you using 2 power supply transformers or just 1?

2 is good.

 

I am using 2 with the advanced power base.

 

Hi,

 

Looks like you have the gooods for the start of a great layout.

 

The Scalextric lane change track pieces do not reset to the original position once you change lanes.

 

If you are going to change lanes and hold the button down to do so you will change lanes but the flipper will not reset,

 

On the next time round if you go through the same lane changer and do not press the lane change button the car will go straight through.

 

The lane changers can be a bit temperamental at first, especially if you are setting up and pulling your track down.

 

Digital needs good conductivity to allow the cars, lane changers etc to flow freely,

 

If you haven't got yourself a can of Inox MX3 yet head down to your local Bunnings and grab some.

 

Spray a little bit onto a rag and wipe it on the RAILS ONLY, you will be amazed how much better and smoother your track and cars will feel.

 

There is also a problem you may come across running some of your cars in Analogue mode with the curved lane changers (CLC's),

 

Without the CLC modification your track will be set as as having one continuous lane, not the 2 separate lanes as needed for Analogue,

 

a stuff up by Scalextric here but easily fixed, have a look here http://www.slotforum...topic=50259&hl=

 

This is a video by Mr Flippant regarding how to do the modification, it will not damage your track in any way, it will probably void any warranty though.

 

Without this modification you can't run 2 cars in analogue mode on your digital track with the CLC's in place.

 

Hope some of this helps you out.

 

cheers

 

Matt

 

I am aware of the modification needed to make analogue cars work on the corner lane changers. I might pick up some inox, but for now good old wd40 has been doing the trick.

 

At this stage I am more worried about trying to get my digital cars to work on them.

If I can't even use them as digital track, it hardly seems worth worrying about analogue or making any sort of track with them in it.

[mattcrackers]

I have 5 of the CLC's, and don't use any of them on the track,

 

They all worked fine for cruising around and changing lanes in digital but would damage some of my older cars in analogue mode.

 

Do try the Inox, does work heaps better than WD40 in my opinion, best $13 I've spent towards digital slots yet.

 

I take it you have removed the back cover and checked that the pins are in place by your earlier posts,

 

It's weird that you can do 5 laps etc and then the problem occurs.

 

Digital relies heavily on clean rails and definately clean braids on the cars,

 

It took me a while to understand how to make these things operate properly,

 

Even now, from time to time one of the straight lane changers (XLC's) will not operate properly.

 

I usually wiggle the flipper manually by hand, even run the vacuum over the slot and run some inox over the rails before and around the flippers.

 

Hope you get get sorted out.

 

cheers

 

Matt

[FIREWIRE1394]

I have 5 of the CLC's, and don't use any of them on the track,

 

They all worked fine for cruising around and changing lanes in digital but would damage some of my older cars in analogue mode.

 

Do try the Inox, does work heaps better than WD40 in my opinion, best $13 I've spent towards digital slots yet.

 

I take it you have removed the back cover and checked that the pins are in place by your earlier posts,

 

It's weird that you can do 5 laps etc and then the problem occurs.

 

Digital relies heavily on clean rails and definately clean braids on the cars,

 

It took me a while to understand how to make these things operate properly,

 

Even now, from time to time one of the straight lane changers (XLC's) will not operate properly.

 

I usually wiggle the flipper manually by hand, even run the vacuum over the slot and run some inox over the rails before and around the flippers.

 

Hope you get get sorted out.

 

cheers

 

Matt

 

I've had a bit of a race today on a new circuit.. the left hand ones worked perfectly for 2 hours of racing.. The right ones lasted about 15 laps, then same problem.

I'm really at a loss, the only thing I have to still try is to use the sensor tracks from the working ones, and see if that fixes it. After that I have tried everything I can think of..

 

It's very annoying when you only have one place on a circuit to do a proper overtake.

 

Fixing broken cars is fun (I am doing 2 now).. Fixing somehow f*#$(d brand new track is not. I am about to snap the f#%*@%g things and throw them out.. it doesn't make ANY sense why they work, then just die even after an overhaul..

[FIREWIRE1394]

Well the sensor tracks from the left hand ones when used with these worked fine.

 

So now I either have to work out some way of fixing the too easy to overload sensor tracks or get a refund. I'd rather find a fix if I can.

[shadow_rusty]

Did you try the 'faulty' right hand sensor track on the left hand corners?

It will use a different pair of mosfets,so it might just be ok.

[aussieslotter]

Don't use WD40 anywhere near solenoids. It shorts them out.

Inox is not going to help a new track system. Nor is vacuuming.

It appears the sensor pieces are faulty. I'm guessing a cold solder joint on the PCB.

I would just get a refund as they aren't very good when racing. It's hard to get a position advantage with them. XLCs are the way to go, simply one at end of every straight.

 

Rick

Edited September 1, 2016 by aussieslotter

[mattcrackers]

Beg to differ there Rick with Inox not helping a new track system.

 

I set up my new set and the conductivity wasn't that flash until I used the Inox.

 

Inox helps in fixing the very loose connections that Scalextric track has due to the track connection tabs not being tight enough.

 

Once you tighten the tabs, the problem is fixed but if you have your track set up where heat/cold are a problem then the use of inox makes it much easier to enjoy your track.

 

Vaccuming the sensor tracks can help if you are setting up and pulling apart your track on a carpet surface, new or not.

 

Matt

[aussieslotter]

You don't have to convince me how good Inox is as I've had a can for almost ten years. If a new system doesn't work Inox will be a temporary fix though.

Inox won't help a bad plug connection or cold solder joint.

My gut feeling it's the plug or a cold solder joint. As its in 2 units it probably the plug. This could be hard wired but then you can't send it back under warranty. Maybe try some sheep juice in the plug connection?

Edited September 2, 2016 by aussieslotter

[FIREWIRE1394]

Thanks for all the advice all.

It appears they are faulty.

I can't be bothered sending them back, (to the UK, then waiting for the replacements to arrive) so I've bought another 2 of the left hand ones from the same place. with some other bits and pieces. $20 each and $60 shipping.

 

As it turns out, I'm probably going to have to give up on a hobby anyway. since I spent the 2 odd grand, I've become unemployed, and need real car work done first, so I'll probably sell off some of the stuff and wait for better luck.

[digiracer]

How are you going with the lane change problem?

 

I recently sold my scalextric digital set but it was highly modified with 13 changers some of the parts would be close to 10 yrs old

and still in excellent working order.

Wd40 worked for me as it was in an exposed area and occasionally got moisture on it

 

I major improvement with lane change issues I had that sound similar to yours is to power them separately

 

I tried to attach a photo of some of the mods but cant work that out yet

 

I have to agree with previous replies that corner lane changers are not fast and didn't get used in race conditions on my track

until I modified them to chicanes. It takes 2 corner changers to make 1 chicane but very fast and usable

 

I also noticed that you would get them repaired rather than return them. In that case I can help, I have flippers, solenoids and sensors if your after parts

or if you want to sell them I would make an offer

 

Dave

Edited September 11, 2016 by digiracer

[digiracer]

 

This is a photo of what I can do with two lane changes.

Dave

[FIREWIRE1394]

How are you going with the lane change problem?

 

I recently sold my scalextric digital set but it was highly modified with 13 changers some of the parts would be close to 10 yrs old

and still in excellent working order.

Wd40 worked for me as it was in an exposed area and occasionally got moisture on it

 

I major improvement with lane change issues I had that sound similar to yours is to power them separately

 

I tried to attach a photo of some of the mods but cant work that out yet

 

I have to agree with previous replies that corner lane changers are not fast and didn't get used in race conditions on my track

until I modified them to chicanes. It takes 2 corner changers to make 1 chicane but very fast and usable

 

I also noticed that you would get them repaired rather than return them. In that case I can help, I have flippers, solenoids and sensors if your after parts

or if you want to sell them I would make an offer

 

Dave

 

This is a photo of what I can do with two lane changes.

Dave

 

It's all in the cupboard, as I still haven't even decided on a layout, yet. Just waiting for the next lot of stuff to arrive. and that chicane looks AWSOME! My biggest problem with any sort of modding or repairs is soldering.. I am very skilled and creative in many ways, but I could never solder for s#!t!

But powering them individually might be an idea.

 

And them slowing the race down a little might be a good thing, If people know they have to slow down it'll get more competitive in other parts of the track.