Wobble Posted August 3, 2016 Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 (edited) Recently 18k classic sports cars have been added to the list of classes we race. I've got a couple of XK120's and Cobra's but would really like to get one of these up to speed. My intentions are to cut the chassis and glue the bits to the body and open out the front arches and put a wider axle in to give it a bit more stability, similar to this Has anyone got one of these going OK? If so I'd like to hear how you went about it. Edited August 3, 2016 by Wobble Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlotsNZ Posted August 3, 2016 Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 I did one myself at one stage Bram The 'track' was still pretty narrow. I think I also did something to improve the guide setup, I think I "sectioned" the glass - removed the bit inside the roof, ground the upper body plastic thinner and even then, I think I only got it really easy to drive by pouring JB Weld into the lowest points on the inside of the body and filling them with buckshot (lead pellets) Nice livery though - where'd you get it Quote Recovering Lapsed Slot Addict * Custodian of many used screws (mostly loose ) * Total kidder * Companion of other delusional slot addicts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kalbfellp Posted August 3, 2016 Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 I have started one But so far only put a solid tail shaft in it and replace the motor with our spec motor SRP 16,000. Quote Phil https://www.hobartminiaturecarclub.com/ Email Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangermouse Posted August 3, 2016 Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 I have the first Ninco E Type the orange street version - I took the interior out and put in a tray and moved the motor to the back. I also cut the chassis and glued the side bits to the body. It has an NC1 in it and goes well - I have a silver one on the way from NZ and plan to do the same to it.... I also have the Revell Lightweight - moved the motor in it and it drives a lot better than it did.... can post some pics if you want Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wobble Posted August 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 I have the first Ninco E Type the orange street version - I took the interior out and put in a tray and moved the motor to the back. I also cut the chassis and glued the side bits to the body. It has an NC1 in it and goes well - I have a silver one on the way from NZ and plan to do the same to it.... I also have the Revell Lightweight - moved the motor in it and it drives a lot better than it did.... can post some pics if you want Seems like you got the same deal as me DM. I also have the red Ninco and a couple of Revell models including the lightweight but they are untouched except for changing to 14k motors. Unfortunately 14k won't be enough for this class and the sparker will need a can of whip-arse to get it up to speed. I had a NC9 in a XK120 and it's down on power Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aquakiwi Posted August 3, 2016 Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 I seem to remember a E Type in the World Proxy a year or so ago that had had the motor moved back, it appeared to run well,. I think it mat have been the Revo/Mono Lightweight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kalbfellp Posted August 3, 2016 Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 (edited) The IPS E type that ran so well was Lenny Brokes, Revell Body, think it was on. Scratch built chassis. Edited August 3, 2016 by kalbfellp Quote Phil https://www.hobartminiaturecarclub.com/ Email Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lenny broke Posted August 4, 2016 Report Share Posted August 4, 2016 The IPS E type that ran so well was Lenny Brokes, Revell Body, think it was on. Scratch built chassis. Yeah thanks Phil, that was mine, it was a Revell but on a Slot it HRS 2 chassis. 1 Quote home track club racer Spitfire Raceway forum link https://www.facebook.com/groups/1753319218331240/?ref=bookmarks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wobble Posted August 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2016 (edited) Nice looking car lenny broke. This one's a bit different to the red one in that it has extra body posts. Seems pretty straight forward to take the front and both sides off and still have it mounted in 3 places. I like that. I might also consider moving the rear body post forward so the rear portion can also be permanently attached to the body. Edited July 11, 2017 by Wobble Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlotsNZ Posted August 4, 2016 Report Share Posted August 4, 2016 Flat 6 it mate.... Quote Recovering Lapsed Slot Addict * Custodian of many used screws (mostly loose ) * Total kidder * Companion of other delusional slot addicts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wobble Posted August 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2016 Flat 6 it mate.... That's funny Mark, I've got a flat 6 sitting here but they might notice it getting away from them down the back straight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wobble Posted August 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2016 (edited) Slot.It 15x8 on the front brings the track out to the same as the Ninco XK120 so it should be a lot more stable and 15x8 SCX? rears. I've got some inserts but a bit on the small side so need to figure how to build them up a bit. Happy with the stance and looks more like the car it represents Edited July 11, 2017 by Wobble Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lenny broke Posted August 4, 2016 Report Share Posted August 4, 2016 (edited) What inserts have you got Bram? BWA .375 Dunlops? Edited August 4, 2016 by lenny broke Quote home track club racer Spitfire Raceway forum link https://www.facebook.com/groups/1753319218331240/?ref=bookmarks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wobble Posted August 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2016 What inserts have you got Bram? BWA .375 Dunlops? They're Penelope Pitlane and look similar to Dunlop 2 ear, but not quite the same. I'm wondering if they're obsolete stock as I got them in a job lot and could be a few years old. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lenny broke Posted August 5, 2016 Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 (edited) I've got some inserts but a bit on the small side so need to figure how to build them up a bit. Hi Bram I recently adapted some BWA .450 resin inserts to fit the 15x10 slot it wheels by using some spare slot it inserts of that size. I started by removing the actual wheel detail and left just the ring section. I then shaped the resin insert to go inside the ring and set it to the desired offset ,then superglued the insert to the ring. once the glue set I then painted them with some matte black before pushing them them into the rim. Here 's a pick of the finished item. Edited August 5, 2016 by lenny broke Quote home track club racer Spitfire Raceway forum link https://www.facebook.com/groups/1753319218331240/?ref=bookmarks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wobble Posted August 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 (edited) That's a real tidy way of doing it lenny broke and the sort of thing I was considering. Here's the ones I have. I think they're made of pewter as the 4 of them weigh 9gm. I think I blew up Penelope Pitlanes parts as well when I blew up the photo. While contemplating how I was going to go about it I continued with the chassis cutting. The front came off 1st and was glued to the body and then I started the side cuts from the inside and then glued and screwed the chassis to the body and completed the cut from the outside. The rear will remain as is, as it sits nice and flat and still has some float. Chassis finished but I found some Scaley Lotus/Caterham wheels that needed a home. With the smaller diameter wheels the guide sits right down in the slot with the spring removed. Also found some bushes that are a snug fit in the chassis and a better fit on the Ninco axle as well. Trued NSR tyres and it runs as smooth as silk and a lot quieter than with the Ninco bushes. I think they're ex-Scaley Sport bushes. Just need a bit of hot glue on the motor now. Weighs in at the same weight as my Ninco XK120's (Carrera E200 motors) but with a bit more torque and wider better tyres will allow for a bit of added weight near the rear. Just need to add some side pipes to make it look a bit more like this Edited July 11, 2017 by Wobble Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slotmadmac Posted August 5, 2016 Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 Looking very cool. Really enjoy all your builds Bram - for me they're far and away the most interesting posts on Auslot these days. Keep 'em coming. Quote Podiums are for short people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wobble Posted August 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 Looking very cool. Really enjoy all your builds Bram - for me they're far and away the most interesting posts on Auslot these days. Keep 'em coming. cheers Mac, here's hoping it'll give the Corvettes and Cobras a hurry up without having to move the motor aft but that's always another option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slotmadmac Posted August 5, 2016 Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 I built up a Revell E Type a few years back for our 16k motor / classics class - details here - but ended up racing a FLY 250 as the sidewinder set up proved faster. I might revisit that Jag today. Wild weather in the Bay today! Good excuse for extended cave time. Quote Podiums are for short people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kalbfellp Posted August 5, 2016 Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 Replacing the drive shaft spring with either solid tube or Plastic tube make these front engined cars much smoother. First one I did I used an old RC plastic Ariel, Later cars use brass tube. Quote Phil https://www.hobartminiaturecarclub.com/ Email Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wobble Posted August 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 Good point Phil, just as well the motor isn't glued in yet, I've got some plastic tube that's a real good fit on a 2mm shaft. and Mac, good job on the Light-weight. Mine has a lot more battle scars than that as it's one of the 1st cars I got when I got into slots and when the magnet let go, well, it's not so tidy now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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