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Kommandant33

Slot.it Ssd - Cars And Chips.

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Hey,

 

I just picked up my first slot.it car, and a SP15B chip for my Scalextric Sport Digital track - the car looks amazing, and a big step up from the scaley cars I have, but I gotta say, there is a frustrating lack of information out there!

 

Looking at the chip, it would be a pretty straight forward installation, but the scaley chips come with an LED that activates the lane lane changers, and I assume the lap counter - the Slot.it chips don't have that - and I've since seen that they are extra - but where do they attach to the chip? But then the information page says:

 

NOTE: If the location of the sensor is inconvenient for your installation, you may connect an optional external infrared LED on the wires (part SP32).

 

So does that mean I don't need the LED?

 

Any help would be amazing! And if any of you keen hobbyists feel like making a YouTube video of how to install the chip, you will get a million views - which will equate to about $3.50 in revenue from YT ;)

 

Thanks,

 

Komm


He'll be Komm'in 'round the corner when he comes...

AuSlot_zpsi7z6mmju.jpg

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The slot.it chips have the LED built in to the module, what car have you bought as some need a bit of munting to get the chip to fit.

You only need the extra sensor if you cannot fit the chip with the LED placed over teh provided chassis hole just behind the guide.


Cheers Grant

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The 'default' LED is soldered directly to the board.

The optional LED is also available for when you use their board in other cars.

 

There should be an extra hole in the chassis for the LED to shine through and activate lane changers / etc.

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Hey! Thanks for your prompt replies.

 

I bought the Audi R18 e-tron Quattro - jumping in the deep end, I know :D

 

So looking at the chip - is this little guy the LED? I thought it may be, but then I wondered whether it would protrude out of the body enough for the sensor to pick it up?

 

e2389c7c-c628-4c11-9ba5-316ec8bbddf8_zpsvnx9x81n.jpg

 

CC760BF6-DC2D-4453-A171-BCAB38AFB93B_zpspkicvncg.jpg


He'll be Komm'in 'round the corner when he comes...

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Thats the fulla but other side not that side.

Place LED over the hole behind the guide, hopefully will fit OK, use hot glue gun to glue in place around edges.

Get some chalk and liberally scrub the chip in all the high places

Place the body over, don't screw tightly, jiggle the body about slightly then take off and see if there are any chalk marks on the body.


Cheers Grant

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ps doesn't need to protrude as the sensors are placed well before the lane change so will pick up signal as it runs over it.


Cheers Grant

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Fantastic! Thanks for the advice.

 

I am thinking I will take this one to a professional to fit for me, and then try the next cars myself ;)


He'll be Komm'in 'round the corner when he comes...

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Don't be a sook, first one is always a nervous one.

I have minimal electrical skills, as many here will attest to but this is super easy.

I'll send you some photos of a Porsche 956 I did, I have an Audi R8C but haven't chipped that one yet.

 

Have you a photo of the underneath of the chassis and top of chassis as I know some holes are set back a bit from the guide.

Also how much room have you got between chassis and body in that area, the LMP cars are very low so you may need the extension.

Play around with location first to see where it is best positioned before committing to anything.


Cheers Grant

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Here is a 962 chassis I did.

I drilled a new hole closer to the guide.

Chip should fit nicely into the body fixing post.

20160510095504-e8e7e56b-me.jpg

 

Raised the back of the chip a little bit if you are going to loosen the motor pod for a bit of float. A bit of hot glue under but clear of the pod works.

 

20160510095631-234c4bbe-me.jpg

 

This is a 956 body I had to do a bit of work on to ensure the chip fitted.

 

20160510095738-c62adf4f-me.jpg

 

This was with the old Slot.it chip SP15 not teh new SP15B which is a bit smaller so could be a better fit.

 

Hope this helps.


Cheers Grant

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Here is a 962 chassis I did.

I drilled a new hole closer to the guide.

Chip should fit nicely into the body fixing post.

20160510095504-e8e7e56b-me.jpg

 

Raised the back of the chip a little bit if you are going to loosen the motor pod for a bit of float. A bit of hot glue under but clear of the pod works.

 

20160510095631-234c4bbe-me.jpg

 

This is a 956 body I had to do a bit of work on to ensure the chip fitted.

 

20160510095738-c62adf4f-me.jpg

 

This was with the old Slot.it chip SP15 not teh new SP15B which is a bit smaller so could be a better fit.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Fantastic! Thanks for the detailed reply.

 

Here is the car:

 

B4323605-E984-4271-AE17-665BAEF83AA9_zpsd4xavy66.jpg

 

Underneath:

 

653B973F-B5AA-4BE0-944A-9B6297D4F24D_zpsvft1u5ce.jpg

 

Inside:

 

FA3975CD-4344-41F9-A14E-8EF23877854D_zpsgkgqo42a.jpg

 

Holding the chip in place:

 

166B42FC-FC8D-48E4-A167-D0A73FA1DD3B_zps0fyzw1lt.jpg

 

I could fit it a bit further up if I drill another hole, but the existing hole is at about the same point as ZeGas' one - and will leave me more room to adjust the front of the car.:

 

4E581D5D-B7EA-4F6B-8A90-B58CE5E7A7AA_zpskicnsokg.jpg

 

And there is plenty of room to move in the body!

 

BC11526C-374F-4247-B3C2-6A4C6C6F307E_zpshfkxay4i.jpg

 

I may be able to conquer this myself... all I need is a soldering iron :ph34r:

 

Also, how do you tell which wire goes to which end of the motor?

 

Thanks again for all the help!


He'll be Komm'in 'round the corner when he comes...

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Looks like it fits like a glove.

 

Motor end wire connection doesn't matter the chip controls that.

With digital you can put a car on the track in either direction and it will still go forward.

Just put the guide wires into the guide on the same side they are on the chip when seated and you'll be fine.

 

If you want a handy soldering iron I got a gas one from jaycar for about $90, it is great as you don't need power so can take anywhere.

http://www.jaycar.com.au/Tools-%26-Soldering/Soldering/Irons---Gas/Pro-Piezo-Gas-Soldering-Iron/p/TS1310.

 

Careful though with the gas, it has a vent that if turned the wrong way will melt plastic, tyres, fingers very quickly got to stay on your toes.

 

Don't go to cheap with an iron as it will no doubt be to cold for electrical, you want to get in and out quick with electrical.

 

For beginning you could get this

http://www.jaycar.com.au/Tools-%26-Soldering/Soldering/Accessories/Lead-Free-Solder-Paste-SMD-Syringe-10g/p/NS3048

They keep it in the fridge out back so you gotta as for it.

Make sure you get the lead free version if you do, don't want you to go loopy.

I've had mine for over a year in the fridge and it is still fine.

 

It makes life easy for small soldering jobs like connecting to motor as you don't have to hold motor, wire, iron & solder.

Bit of paste, place wire over, then heat wire, should only take a matter of seconds, remove iron but hold wire for another second, then I put a small bit of electrical solder top and sides to really hold the sucker there.

You can see on the photo I send about the amount I use.

 

 

BTW you signature is making me go :blink:


Cheers Grant

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Nice car that Audi, 4WD components alone are worth a small fortune. Interested to see if it goes faster without the band installed.

 

I use to do all my soldering with the el-Cheapo Jaycar soldering iron (orange handle and about $20) - is fine for a beginner and well if it breaks you can just buy a new one. Once you start using it more and more then I'd be upgrading to something better that meets your needs.

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It might be true for the lead wires (the ones that go into the guide) because the current on the rails is AC (assuming also that you never want to run your chipped car on DC power), but it is important that the right polarity is given to the motor, otherwise the car will go backwards.

 

My rule of thumb is to solder the motor wires of the chip following the same configuration as the wires that are already installed in the car: in your picture, see the wire that is soldered to the motor that goes into the right hole in the guide? You have to solder the leg of the Ferrite Man (I hope that you know what the Ferrite Man is) that is attached to the wire on the right side of the chip (in your picture is the wire that is closer to the top of the pic).

 

IMPORTANT: make sure that the legs of the ferrite man never touch the body of the motor otherwise you will kill the chip. it is pretty easy to do it with the flat6 motors. Put some tape around the motor near where the motor contacts are so that you can safely fold the Ferrite Man over the motor.


Cheers

G

 

"I am an expert at the top of my field when mowing the lawn".

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By the way, ZeGas, try to solder the ferrite man the other way around on your motor and let me know if the car goes still forward even in digital....


Cheers

G

 

"I am an expert at the top of my field when mowing the lawn".

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My bad, as my daughter says,

I reread my post after I saw Grunz reply and yep said it all ass over tit.

Guide wires which ever way you want, motor polarity is the important one.


Cheers Grant

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Home Track..........Corvette C1 Build..........McLaren M1A Build..........Maserati 300S Build..........Allard J2 Build..........50's Diner..........Iso Griffo A3C

 

3D Printed Adjustable Chassis..........3D Print Projects

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Hi

One word of caution on these chips,the area around the led is conductive so if you are unlucky enough to catch a screw in the slot and it makes contact with the area aound the sensor it will blow the led,you will then need to add on the aftermarket one to get the chip running again.

 

I've lost one so far and others I spoke to at the uksf also reported the same issue,I spoke to Maurizio at the event and was advised that an update would be 6 months away,in the meantime he did suggest placing a piece of clear tape over the apature,I've done this and lap counting and l/c are unchanged.


Spaghetti Mess = More Stress. .

Projects of Clown is a great laugh. 

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Yep,

Ade is spot on. I had the same issue with one of mine mounted on a DTM M3.

Unfortunately, even putting a IR LED on leads didn't help. I might need to re-flash the chip with the ICP firmware to make it work again.


Cheers

G

 

"I am an expert at the top of my field when mowing the lawn".

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Dont use hot glue it can warp the chassis, it can be so minor that you wont actuall notice until yiour car starts handling badly.

Better off to use Blutac.

 

Rick


The best form of satisfaction is success.

www.scorpiuswireless.com

 

 

 

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