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Hi all,

 

I am in the process of building Bruce's No.47 M1a.

 

Does anyone know where I can find some pics of the cockpit.

 

The only pic of the car I can find is from the trusts website.

 

20160506172903-d48c48bb.jpg

 

There doesn't appear to be much more.

 

Got the body done minus the clear coat.

 

20160501160242-04b85fd4.jpg

Bit more to do on the motor to age it a bit, thought I might get some green beads to act as tennis balls for the trumpets.

 

20160501160232-fb0058e8.jpg

 

20160501160246-abc8c98d.jpg

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Thanks Phil,

 

I had done that search previously but still not a lot of period pics of the cockpit.

Most of the glimpses show alloy with red seat, so I'll go with that.

At the mo' the dash is alloy with black dials.

Looks bad in the photo but OK with naked eye.

 

20160501160243-4dc0b034.jpg

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I have flicked an email to a friend who is a member of the McLaren Trust - and whose father used to work for Bruce in the early days.

And he is also a slot racer and scratch-builder going back to the 60s himself.

May not have anything, but worth a shot as he knew Phil Kerr and the likes.

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Quick reply from Peter.

 

"I am sure if you approach the Trust directly they would have some photos, or alternatively google McLaren M1A.

The other option is you are not in a hurry. I could take as many photos of various parts of car when I am at the 50th Anniversary of Can Am at Road America, Lake Elkhart in July this year, we will be back for US 6th August."

 

So holler if you are still stuck.

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Geez thanks for spending the time Mark,

 

Done the google thing to death but bugger all for cockpit area.

It's only a lexan cockpit so is never going to be spot on but I am enjoying making this car so much I wouldn't mind a crack at a bigger scale static model if I can locate one, rear as hens teeth though.

 

If you could take some photos that would be greatly appreciated, I can wait, the slot car version is for racing anyway so doesn't have to be spot on.

 

Hey Aqua Kiwi, it is another of George's models, they are great and seem to run reasonable, although my IPC results say otherwise.

 

Here are some more photos of work done this weekend.

Tidied up the dash and started on the driver, still needs toning down though.

 

Bloody macro picks up all the flaws, the silver helmet looks as smooth as to the naked eye but rough as guts via macro, body could probably do with another coat of clear as well.

 

Shame my camera only has point focus in macro.

 

20160509094650-b22e04c8-me.jpg

 

20160509094645-ba25e5e1-me.jpg

 

20160509094639-4733db9c-me.jpg

 

20160509094634-2fb8a2f9-me.jpg

 

20160509094628-4a8b696e-me.jpg

 

20160509094621-8ef92ea7-me.jpg

 

20160509094614-34a35dbf-me.jpg

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Thanks guys,

 

I sprayed the final coat last night, bit happier with this one.

 

20160512092817-a2391573-me.jpg

 

20160512092759-47296bfd-me.jpg

 

mmmm shiny

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Gaaagh,

 

So I straightened out the chassis and trued the tyres and slowly built the chassis up with an SRP 16k motor and all is looking sweet and straight.

 

Then I place the body over and one side was a good 2mm higher than the other. Damn didn't think to check the body when I first started.

 

BIG twist in body and all lovely painted and all.

 

What to do, What to do.

 

Well I boiled the kettle while I carefully wrapped some folded dish cloth over the top of the body then duct tape over that on my steel straightening block.

 

A very quick dunk in the boiled water enough to soak the cloth and then out again and left to cool.

Yay straight body, but hang on a sec, even though the clear coat was over a week old the dish cloth rippled the paint.

 

Gaaagh again.

 

So out with the sand paper to smooth out. Luckily it was only the clear coat that was damaged.

Sand back clean off and repaint with clear.

 

All good looks almost as good as it did before, a couple of blemishes but only noticeable if you are me.

 

So end of week to allow a bit of time for paint to cure and I place body on chassis, dead straight.

 

Phew

 

So lets screw body on.

 

Gaaagh

 

Straight .... but widened slightly so body holes don't quite line up with chassis holes

With chassis holes widened for float it is a tight fit but straight.

 

Some weeks you just cannot win.

 

Still you live and learn.

 

MAKE SURE YOU CHECK BODY AS WELL AS CHASSIS FOR STRAIGHTENING BEFORE YOU START YOUR PROJECT.

 

Got to love the building experience, I know I do even with a few set backs.

Edited by ZeGas

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And those last couple of photos looked so pretty ZeGas ... but good to hear you got it all tidied up again

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All done bar the tuning.

 

20160602182616-e1b62871-me.jpg

 

20160602182828-0196903c-me.jpg

 

Wheel insert thanks to Phil (Kalbfellp)

Edited by ZeGas

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Thanks for the kind words guys.

Not sure you could afford my hourly rate Michael, I take forever to build these things. :D

 

Poor car, it looks a bit lonely by itself, I might just have to build a Chappy 2A to go with it.

 

20160603141825-3184acc3.jpg

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1st runs, total weight 88 gms, non mag.

Track length 18.5m

Best time 7.1s

Average time 7.5s

 

 

 

Top time with magnet 6.2s.

Not sure how this rates with similar cars.

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