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I spent a bit of tome today and opened up a Lancia Shelf queen sitting here.

I ran it on the Hollclimb track in Direction 1.

Standard in lapped around 18 seconds.

Fitted some MJK's and times dropped to Mid 16's.

So off came the body, scrapped around the chassis, added a piece of lead into the central magnet pocket and a piece on top of the chip door. Sanded the front and rear tyres.

Lap times very consistant between 14.3 and 14.5.

For comparison I ran the Two OzRally RS200 they were marginally faster at 13.9 and 14.1. I will have another go at the Lancia when time permits.

 


Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

Email

 

 

 

 

 

 

Logos%2016_17.small_zpswkcwjf0q.jpg

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I got me this

7FB86001-E01B-4D58-8C87-61118EFB22CB_zpsyjk4arku.jpg

 

First problem-

* wheels on the Audi are bigger

diameter & width

Ford rs200 - near impossible to get body float

Mg metro - same as the rs200

Audi. - I just loosened the screws and wow

Excellent body float

Rossko

 

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Finally got the 4th make, now we can work out the best tyres for them and any information that can be shared

 

Started working on them and finding out what's what

 

20160501_161528.jpg

 

Left out the 2 interior screws on the RS, 4 is enough to keep it together

 

Added weight to them all, removed the front flap for the chip and replaced it with a piece of lead the same size, sits flush with the bottom of the chassis, so it's within the rules, just need to paint the lead.

 

Sorting out which tyres to use which will give plenty of clearance for both the spur gear and the inside of the guards.

 

As it turns out there will have to be 2 different tyres, one set for the MG and RS and one set for the Audi and Lancia, larger rims on the latter

 

The big surprise is that the Metro hasn't got the shortest wheelbase, that honour goes to the Audi

 

b_163655.jpg

 

b_163723.jpg

 

The RS has the lowest profile and will probably end up being the most popular

 

b_163823.jpg

 

It's good to see that Scalextric went for a new mould for the Metro as well

 

b_135254.jpg

 

If you are planing on running the Metro, you'll need to put a co-driver in them, for some reason most only have the rallycross version

 

Start playing with a few different guide setups next


Quickly read this post before it is deleted or i turn grey again

Gary

http://www.facebook.com/Rallyproxy2017

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Just checked my metro, and yep, only a driver. Is that duck of yours from a few years back busy Gazza? :)

 

Thanks for the pics, will be handy for those yet to purchase a car. Should start running in motors tonight.


Some slot (and MTB) vids NOW SHOWING

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Good to know about the lead slung underneath was not sure myself whether that would be allowed like that as it's technically is as you can see it and not inside the car but if you say it's ok it is so i,m ok there done that, did notice about the wheel sizes on the cars when looking looks like there might have to be a couple of different series tyres then, what's your take on the driver platform ?? on the RS mine was tight up against the chassis when i got it.

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Added weight to them all, removed the front flap for the chip and replaced it with a piece of lead the same size, sits flush with the bottom of the chassis, so it's within the rules, just need to paint the lead.

That's how my RS-200 has been setup.

From memory, Chas' is completely inside the car, and there is very little difference between the handling of these 2.

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Those planning on running the Lancia, you will need to trim the rear mud flaps by 3 or 4 mm, testing on my track has them hitting the track causing wheel spin and lack of traction.


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Gary

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Good to know about the lead slung underneath was not sure myself whether that would be allowed.

The lead isnt actually under the chassis Mr Gunn . We took out the plate that holds the lighting clip ,then prized that clip away from the little lugs holding it . The lead is shaped to the exact hole size or if your worried it may come out , make it a little bigger than the hole size and hot glue it into the chassis. To save the magnet at the rear if you intend to use it , I took it out ,heated the crap out of it to take the magnetism out of it and replaced it instead of lead It only weighs in at about 2.1 grams . I also through a piece of lead up front in the Audi to keep the front down . Light sand of fronts aswell and may change the guide.

Edited by teamredracing

Craig

 

"You can please all of the people some of the time, but you can’t please all of the people all of the time”.

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Hi Craig already took the chance on the lead in that place your correct about the fear of it falling out that's why i have glued a bit of plastic card the other side of the chassis over the hole and the lead i use is about the same as the scaey chassis thickness just glued that in place and a nice firm fit, ain't going no where, the guide is going to be a bit of a problem, at the moment using the original for testing purpose again but with different thinner braids, making up a plate to try SCX sprung in my junk chassis tried Scaleauto sprung not good, and not a lot of choice sprung wise, as i have no rally track not sure how the unsprung will go, perhaps someone with a rally track they can use could find out for us .

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the guide is going to be a bit of a problem, perhaps someone with a rally track they can use could find out for us .

 

The cars get around the rally track ok with the standard guide, they even get around the hairpin which is great, but due to the bumps, dips and non smooth surface, they loose a lot of power from lack of solid contact.

 

I've fitted a Ninco sprung guide to the RS and early testing has a lot of the contact problems sorted out, still gets around the hairpin and has constant power everywhere.

 

The weight in place of the "chip flap" defiantly keeps the front end down and constant contact with the braid


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Gary

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Ive got to set mine up on my road circuit as well for the time been . But will have to pull down the rally track to see if any adjustments need to be done.


Craig

 

"You can please all of the people some of the time, but you can’t please all of the people all of the time”.

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Ok have tried the Ninco 80106 the slot guide with suspension in the spare chassis and a couple of problems i have found firstly you have to ease the top of the post hole to get it to operate smoothly, and i find with the longer guide shaft of this guide it drops down to far and there is no guide stop so it flips round , what we really need is something like scaley do but with a shorter shaft than the Ninco preferably with a screw rather than the 2 top prongs , i did bend them over to reduce the amount of fall but not that good like that can jam.

On the weight front as well as the trap door have put a bit of weight up in between the front axle up to the guide hump , as i was still finding that sometimes the RS would slide out being pushed , this seems to have eliminated that problem did 70 laps flat out and did not deslot once, motor wise seems the other motor i have in it now is a bit quicker registering 19.340 on bruvs machine and thinking these motors are going to be considerably faster than the SCX with not such good brakes, be interesting to see how they perform on a rally track with a proxy driver at the controller chuckle current all up weight is 98.7, one last problem don't use a meth bath tried a test patch under the bumper area at the rear of the car to remove paint and it started to wrinkle slightly, back to the studio for me , have tangy guitar will travel :)

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Ok have tried the Ninco 80106 the slot guide with suspension in the spare chassis and a couple of problems i have found firstly you have to ease the top of the post hole to get it to operate smoothly, and i find with the longer guide shaft of this guide it drops down to far and there is no guide stop so it flips round , what we really need is something like scaley do but with a shorter shaft than the Ninco preferably with a screw rather than the 2 top prongs , i did bend them over to reduce the amount of fall but not that good like that can jam.

 

Maybe this guide might be worth having a look at. - Scalextric C8420 - https://www.google.c...calextric+C8420

Edited by Wobble

bram1_zpsfkhrhndv.jpg

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Maybe this guide might be worth having a look at. - Scalextric C8420 - https://www.google.c...calextric+C8420

Wobble , isnt this just the original

 

. The Audi I've got hasnt had a guide issue yet but am going to get hold of some adapters just in case . As far a weight , I found the Audi was a heavy car already and bought mine up to 102g's and seems to sit quite well on the track at 10 and even 11 volts . But that's my road circuit . Ran it on one of the club members track last night which has longer straights than mine on 12 volts and had to plan the the corners a few times as the circuit is fast and flowing. Other than that it went well.

 

I think we have to understand that the Scaley motor is quick and the needs of a host to adjust the throttle or even voltage of the track to compensate will have to come in mind, . IMO.

Cheers Craig


Craig

 

"You can please all of the people some of the time, but you can’t please all of the people all of the time”.

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Maybe this guide might be worth having a look at. - Scalextric C8420 - https://www.google.c...calextric+C8420

Wobble , isnt this just the original

 

Cheers Craig

 

This is a sprung guide and the shaft is longer than the original to fit the spring in.

 

Maybe check the link, l get nothing specific just a mish mash of guides, cars, digital, throttles and track


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Gary

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Scalextric C8420 is simply the part you need. None of my range of cars have this guide standard.

 

Maybe so, but i'd like to see one to get an idea


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Gary

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Sorry for the confusion, but they are noticably different, I have used them but not in rally cars and without spring but just because I wanted a deeper guide.

 

C8240 is the code if you want to explore this option.

 

 

Scalextric C8329 standard guide blade -

http://www.scalextri...lates_C8329.jpg

 

Scalextric C8420 Sport+ guide blade (sprung) -

http://www.scalextri...lates_C8420.jpg


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Found them, it's still an option for others, but i will stick with the Ninco conversion.


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Gary

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Right the 8420 is the guide i thought would work in the RS fits ok but rather loose for some reason, beginning to wish scaley would stick to just one thing really, but have tried it on a long run and fronts a bit unstable shimmys a bit , the Ninco a bit the other way tight at the top end and a long shaft and i think Phil what you are saying is the next thing i will do brass shim the post tube at the bottom end and ease the top hole slightly that will make the Ninco more stable at the bottom end , did not know when i started on this the amount of work involved to get a slot car to what it should be to go rallying but nearly there now , have had to get a new chassis which i will put all these ideas on have another motor which seems to be good, axle sets , guide sets , the car as i have it now is not a bad circuit car actually the motor in my opinion is to pokey to go rallying at that gearing and being 2wd instead of the 4wd SCX, but were all in the same boat and the drivers will have to adjust to the quicker motor , agree with Gary on that point throttle back , still have the rear tyres to really sort out but that will have to wait on MJK's i suspect.

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Looking at 4221 (Scalextric Honda NSX, Nissan 350Z) for the Lancia and Audi, and 4257 (SCX Barracuda) for the RS and MG

 

Both give plenty of clearance for the spur gear and also plenty of room under the guards and both are wide enough on the track to ensure plenty of grip

 

The big problem for the 8420 guide is availability and price for everyone, where as the Ninco you can pickup at any slotcar shop, if you already don't have a stockpile at home.

 

The guide choice will be open, having said that, i think the vast majority will be in the Ninco camp.


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Gary

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Have fitted Scaleauto SC-1621 in my test chassis and works quite well seems less bottom end flop , also rigged up a B Nova on a block to test various guides out on and that works well with Ninco, Scaleauto with a slight reaming of the inside nice fluid movement up and down , also try different springs a slightly longer one in either works well.

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