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gazza

Wrp 2017

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Excellent stuff Peter and thanks for sharing. I've been running the cars on and off for a week now with little modification to get a sense of where they are all at.

 

I have to agree that all 3 cars need weight up front as they continually and rather easily pop out of the slot.

 

You should run the Delta with all the body screws removed - rather impressive if you ask me.

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Hey Gazza - is the SCX Citroen 2CV in anglewinder with a Slotting Plus 28k motor, slot.it 11:28 running gear, super slick tyres and a WRC sticker eligible?

Thinking ........ i'll get back to you


Quickly read this post before it is deleted or i turn grey again

Gary

http://www.facebook.com/Rallyproxy2017

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Some Scaley motors are faster when they're slower or lower revving. My XB Falcon does a whisker over 18k but it creams all the TransAm cars it comes up against. I think it's to do with stronger or better balanced magnets. Might be an advantage for all the ballast these cars sound like they're going to need.


bram1_zpsfkhrhndv.jpg

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...

Can anybody provide guide lead please i.e. Rear axle to front of guide.

...

 

For the Delta S4 that is 94mm

I just fitted a sprung guide but the movement is restricted by the bulk of the "Ferrite Man" on the connection "skis" (Digital-racer-speak). I'll remove that (am assuming such will be allowed) soon to see if that helps.

 

Leo


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Either is fine ......

 

If you want to run direct from the guide to the motor, or

 

If you still want to run lights and couldn't be bothered rewiring the whole thing, Just snip the wires from the existing guide connection and fit to new setup.


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Gary

http://www.facebook.com/Rallyproxy2017

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At the moment settled on a B Nova conversion and used Scaleauto guide part number SC1621 with Ninco standard braid , seems to be the best i,ve found so far , weight bias 70-30 to the front was 60 on the front but you need a bit more to get the sprung guide to do its job which i have discovered also no front drift deslot at all now.

On track performance pretty good now, not as good all round as my SCX C4 from last season which is my bench mark, lacks the SCX motor brakes and overall car handling with the 4wd system , but after over 100 laps the last couple of days so far so good.

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Have a look at the rules and see what you think, but don't take all day, we'll be asking for cars entered soon so we can order the two different MJK control tyres

 

The rest of the 2017 thread is here


Quickly read this post before it is deleted or i turn grey again

Gary

http://www.facebook.com/Rallyproxy2017

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Mine will be a RS 200, still having problems getting body float and my paint work messed up badly. I noticed the windscreen which I glued with Tesrors Canopy glue was crooked. Soaked it in hot water which loosed the glue but also blotched up the paintwork. As the grilles, mirrors, lights etc had all been fitted I won't be repainting. Might have to go for a mud spattered look if I can manage it with out an air gun.

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I have also slit a nylon spacer and put on the axle without removing the wheels on some cars.

 

Could anyone advise me as to where you might be able to get a nylon spacer from? Tried the big green hardware store but I think I need something more specific.


Some slot (and MTB) vids NOW SHOWING

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Used middle size nylon spacers from Pendalls Ben, found 2 was the right number just to give a bit of small movement , did think about getting the wheels of but chickened out of that one just very very tight on the axle , not worth getting another rear axle assembly only have the same problem and this seems to work ok, body float only comes with a lot of trimming and not sure how much you can trim to the rules try using screws with part blank threads and ease the chassis mounting holes slightly .

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Hello Ben_M,

You can make your own spacers from bits of plastic - they don't need to be perfectly round. Drill a hole to fit the axle then cut around to the shape of your choice - triangle, square, rough circle, etc. Then you can slit it and twist over the axle. Credit/Debit card for thick, clear sleeve type stuff for thin.

My advice is to use Mrs Ben_M's credit card...

 

Leo

Edited by Scuderia_Turini

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Nice one Leo, sounds like that will do the trick. Was trying to think of things to cut. Thanks PG for your tip to. Will see how the DIY version goes.

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Some slot (and MTB) vids NOW SHOWING

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Not a silly question really Miverson by reaming the chassis holes ( slightly ) the screws don't grab into the chassis posts as you screw it into the body that way you can get just enough chassis movement , and by using the screws with a blank , non threaded top part you get a bit more, found with the Scaley RS 200 the only way to get a little movement, this also helps stop the front axle roll out on corners when you push the car, again i have found i needed a lot more front weight along with the movement to make it more stable to be able to get it anywhere near last years car for handling , been track running the finished car and reasonably happy with it's overall performance gets better after a few hundred laps, as you will find. :D

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I'm interested in a rally proxy which I can run my Avant Subaru WRC/RallyX car and a Fly/Avant Porsche 911SC (classic) if these are suitable.

Can anyone advise which rally proxy might suit for 2017/18?

 

Thanks, tony

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