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The podium entrants in each class have agreed to show you all what their secrets are.

 

Raid Class winner Charles Bowler.

 

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This car weighs 120 grams, has full suspension and runs 9:27 gearing and uses Tassie Resin tyres.

 

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Second Place was Ross Pajero .

 

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This one is 139 grams using 9:28 gearing and MJK Tyres. The suspension is locked up all round.The Scale auto

guide did cause problems on a couple of tracks.

 

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Third is Raid was this Avant Pajero Evo that the grandkids entered.

 

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Weight is 140 grams,9:28 on the rear and 9:27 on the front and it runs on MJK tyres. The diode on the motor drop the voltage around 0.7 volts to tame the motor a bit. Suspension works all round.

 

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WRC Class winner My Ninco Pug.

 

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This car weights 116 grams using a Slotting Plus Rally motor geared at 9:27 ans using Tassie Resin tyres. Wheels are large diameter Ninco plastic.

No suspension at all.

 

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Second is Class was AMCC Ninco Pug

 

 

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This car weights 115 using a Ninco Red NC2 geared at 9:27 and using MJK tyres Standard Ninco plastic wheels.

Limited suspension on the front rear locked.

 

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Third in WRC was Mivesons Ninco Focus

 

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This weighted 114 grams using and NC5 geared at 9:27 on MJK tyres.Suspension all round and 4wd.

 

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First pace in Hisoric was Slo1quicks Team Slot Alpine.

 

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This car weights 109.7 grams.Red NC2 geared at 9:24 running on MJK tyres.

 

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Second is Historics was Peter Gunns MSC RS200

 

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Weight is 90.6 grams NC5 gearde at 9:27 using MJK tyres. This chassis is from lasy years winning car.

 

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Third is Historics was OTFS with a loaner MSC RS200

 

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This one is 90.4 grams Black Nc2 geared at 9:28

 

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Thank to all the guys for allowing everyone to see all the tuning secrets.

A few cars did have grip problems,I would suggest that anyone entering the next event fit fresh eurethane tyres.


Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

Email

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Thought i would try to give a bit of un asked for advice on car set up's as i do it firstly take the MSC RS 200 this is the same chassis as ran last year only difference is a new set of braids and of course a new set of tyres glued and trued, with any car the first thing i do is strip it down to the basics this applies to all cars new as well, on this particular car and on any that has had some racing use clean everything with meth , chassis wheels gears e.t.c.

So lets start with the motor this car comes with a pretty fast motor and the first year i ran a MSC the feed back was it was to much motor, so i fitted a Ninco 5 last year and it gave me a slightly slower car on the straights but a nice smooth drive all round , and always remember it ain't you normally driving it so my idea is smooth all the way for the people who will be, so back to the motor clean it properly that's why i take some of the paper wrap of the motor so i can get in it easy i have a selection of different sized pointed cocktail sticks for this and i normally use a drop of lighter fuel dropped of a stick through the opening onto the com and then gently run the motor with no load on for a few minutes in each direction, then i lube the motor shaft bearings and give it good run up in the direction i want it to run, so far not had to replace the pinion on this motor as with the slot it 27 contrate in it,s 3rd season this is where mesh is so important and i use a dry lube for this but if i run it next year i will replace both, bearings always clean these out when you are doing the car surprising what gunk gets in there

So here we sit with all the bits in front of us, LIGHTLY lube the inside of the bearings and guide post , ALWAYS fit new braids seen some pretty bad one's about , and this is one of the problem areas you can get if you don't, mount the motor in the chassis and connect up the wires to the guide, another problem area for some, different ways of doing it i like grub screws where ever possible, turn the motor over slowly not under load yet, rest is straight forward really just make sure you don't have tight running front and rear axles and you.ve checked the condition of the front tyres mine have been on the front wheels for 3 seasons now and all i normally do is recoat them with nail varnish, but will change them as the car is having a major sort out when it gets back, lastly but most important, rear tyres, seem there are a couple of different ideas on those but the one thing that should be common to all sorts, put a new set on for the start of a new season. :)

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Bit more detail on my Alpine......

Motor pod can still float, used brass for rigidity then glued the lead to that

Ozrally%20Teamslot%20Alpine%20310%20001_zpsegtnundk.jpg

 

Had to make the front wheels larger using higher profiled tyres (forgotton what I used, its been a couple years since I built this) to conform to the front/rear diameter wheel rule. That meant front axle height had to be altered to optimize guide depth. Used early BWA wheels for rears with original Alpine inserts. Sprung Ninco guide, SCX pro braid, Has original interior. Straightened the chassis in hot water and re drilled chassis axle bearing carriers so as not to distort the chassis once the bearings were glued in place. This car needed a lot of fettling. As a RTR car its a peice of crap really. Happy to answer any questions if anyone is wanting to give one a go.


"Me Auntie's a Jack !!!"

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