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Slot.it Hrs 2 Chassis Mounting Help Needed

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I want to add a HRS2 chassis to a Ninco Jag XK120 for an upcoming proxy (IPS) as the standard Ninco Jag Chassis isn't that great and well I've broken one when trying to insert 3/32 bushings in to the chassis and well I don't have the time to find and buy another chassis. This is an excellent example of where the HRS2 chassis should be fantastic and produce performance superior to old car - well that is hope.

 

I'm very happy with the HRS chassis and the new wheels for the XK120 from Mitoos on a nice 45mm slot.it axle.

 

Where I need help is determining where to mount the chassis to the jag.

 

XK120_1.jpg

 

XK120_2.jpg

 

XK120_3.jpg

 

Now this is where the fun starts and I need some assistance.

 

Green circle- I can easily extend the body post so that the HRS attaches to the chassis.

1. Would you attach the chassis to the body in this way?

 

Purple circle - the front body post can't really be used as there is nothing to attach it to

 

Yellow circles - I was thinking of using epoxy to glue in the white bar so I had something to screw the chassis to.

2. Would you do thiis?

 

Now I know the HRS2 comes with side post that are meant to be glued to the chassis however the body is going fairly high due to motor clearance issues. The Ninco XK120 chassis is a little bit like a bathtub.

 

If anyone has any tips on the best way to attach the chassis then I'm all ears.

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JB Weld a piece of styrene to the chassis in the purple area and use original body post ??

 

or

 

Can you back fill the front as I have done with my 240Z . I superglued a thin strip of styrene at the front then back filled it with Plasti-bond . Could add a bit of weight though .

240Z%20010116%201.jpg

 

240Z%20010116%202.jpg

 

Or Epoxy in some Styrene tube and fill as I'm doing on another project.

 

hako%20010116%204.jpg

Edited by mopar

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Personally I'm usually in favour of 2 mounting points at the front and 1 rear. Seems you've got the rear covered and 2 posts about where the yellow circles are would top it off. The white ones of these - rawl plugs - make good body posts and cheap as chips at Bunnings.


bram1_zpsfkhrhndv.jpg

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Personally I'm usually in favour of 2 mounting points at the front and 1 rear
.... me too. That way you will get body float rather than body flop.

John Warren

Slotcars are my preferred reality

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Or cut a piece of styrene to fill the gap where the purple circle is, and use the middle post that's already there...

You can even screw the plastic to the 2 extra holes in the guide mount...

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Thought I'd give a bit of a progress update after the great comments.

 

I expoxied two raw plugs at the front of the XK120 and then simply cut and sanded them down to the required length. You can see where they are screwed in by looking at the yellow arrows that I added to the picture.

 

XK120_20.jpg

 

And the XK120 from the side...... not sure if I should sand the front raw plugs a little more to lower the front a bit further. Probably another 2mm that they could be trimmed.

 

XK120_21.jpg

 

And in case your interested those wheels are the glorious Mitoos M036 - so nice to have hubs.

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looks good as is , nicely balanced. maybe even just a 1mm at the front , just to close the gap between the top of the tyre and the wheel arch.

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