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2016 Tasman Cup Car Builds


Stubbo

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Sounds like you're nearly there, SR.... Do you have an approximate all up weight (AUW) yet.... anything under 60 grams is what I aimed for... ended up being just a bit over.. from memory... may be wrong

I was told one body mount is sufficient for the T-53... if your suspension arms are positioned where the flat top of the rear axle opening is - the rear of the body will float around on that.

I used one of the holes in the front axle bracket for the one body mount. I fitted a styrene tube and reinforced it by adding gussets of Lilliput then threw that away and used some JB Weld around the styrene tube.

The end result was that the body rests floating on the chassis - it can move a little forward/aft and has plenty of room to "float" side to side and up/down. It will self centre by the taper of the c/sunk BA screw into the post. The rear centres by the cut-away opening under the driver over the motor.

 

You probably know all this, SR - but for anyone else building one of these great little Coopers - it might help.

 

frats,

Rosco

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I will just sand them, I just finish 3rd overall

In the vraa 2.5lt class ahead of sir phil... that car had the same rules so

I'll just radius the tyres the same

Fingers crossed it passes tech scrutineering

I just need to paint the number circles & numbers

And I'm finished....

I'm happy how it runs

 

Rossko

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Ross very different rules for the 2.5 cars, S can motors and bigger diameter tyres. But your Cartix did prove that an almost standard car can be built onto a good proxy car, as did Stewart.

My Grandkids gave there entry a run yesterday,PPL fold up chassis, is as quick as several of my scratchbuilt cars! Makes a person wonder if scratchbuilding is worthwhile?

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Sounds like you're nearly there, SR.... Do you have an approximate all up weight (AUW) yet.... anything under 60 grams is what I aimed for... ended up being just a bit over.. from memory... may be wrong

I was told one body mount is sufficient for the T-53... if your suspension arms are positioned where the flat top of the rear axle opening is - the rear of the body will float around on that.

I used one of the holes in the front axle bracket for the one body mount. I fitted a styrene tube and reinforced it by adding gussets of Lilliput then threw that away and used some JB Weld around the styrene tube.

The end result was that the body rests floating on the chassis - it can move a little forward/aft and has plenty of room to "float" side to side and up/down. It will self centre by the taper of the c/sunk BA screw into the post. The rear centres by the cut-away opening under the driver over the motor.

 

You probably know all this, SR - but for anyone else building one of these great little Coopers - it might help.

 

frats,

Rosco

I'm hoping to be around 65g as I find that if cars are under 60g makes them less predictable. That said, I'll start with whatever it ends up at after building, and add then little bits here and there till I'm happy with how it drives.

 

Also, as I'm using a 'Scaley' shell, I'll be using it's 3 body screws.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Mine is finally complete, and soon in the post. Look on the 'tech specs' thread for pics etc.

I note that the front tyres are not as rounded as I'd like - had to narrow them to start with so they have less of a sidewall bulge than I'd like. Hopefully ok.

Rears are ok.

Morrors are glued to the screen. Please be careful in handling - this meets the one pic I could find of Stilwell's car.

Tyres are Paul Gage xpg. They'll need a light sand before use (cleans off the glaze and detrious).

Name plate engraved - hope is legible.

 

Thanks, Tony (Difinity)

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IMG_4011_zps3wdydndz.jpg

 

 

Just about ready to ship, as always still last minute tuning and the like.

 

Will be in Tuesdays post so it should arrive at Stubbos on Thursday or Friday next week.

 

Phew......

 

IMG_4013_zpsrx9jlz9w.jpg

Edited by terry
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Help - 1985 Brabham wheels.

 

Way off topic but could I enlist your overall knowledge.

 

I am building a 1985 Brabham BT54 for a proxy event in Adelaide in June 2016.

 

Have not been able to find a photo or drawing on wheels however.

 

Can anybody help?

 

Regards Chas Le Breton (charlesx)

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Yay, front and rear suspension done...

Numbers fixed.

 

Still a ways to go, but it will be done by the end of the weekend...

 

Cooper%20T53%20-%2090%20Percent%20Done.JPG

 

Cooper%20T53%20-%20Front%20Suspension.JPGCooper%20T53%20-%20Rear%20Suspension.JPG

Edited by shadow_rusty
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Upper, lower and shock are all 1 piece of wire on the front end, but they are all separate on the rear (Did the rear first)...

 

All the arms were bent up from 0.8mm piano wire with 2x pair of pliers...

Shocks are 0.8mm piano wire for the centre, silicone outer from older slot.it wire, and the inner from a rubbish bag twist tie wrapped around a coarse screw for the spring.

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Very nice work, SR.

Love your paintwork too.

And.... just to complement the model - great pix!

 

I've just re-number Bill's car to #9.... as it was when he raced it... about to go out into the garage and spray a thin coat of clear over the numerals... should have some pix up later.

 

Chassis will run as is.... cleaned the bushes and gears with isopropyl alcohol and re-lubed.

Might have to call Steve at RD - the brass pinion certainly wore from only last year's series running... I expect the crowns are cut from high grade aircraft alloy of some description.. but it has taken chunks out of the pinion.. it will run as is... there's little backlash in them - I'll slop on a little more parma than I would normally use.

 

frats,

Rosco

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Thanks Rosco.

 

But, I can't take credit for the shell...

It's a Scalextric shell.

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terry_zps2f923b15.jpg

 

I'm in the fortunate position of having this thing at home here, not a bad old nail, and after testing I have come to the realisation that my BT11 is just not consistent enough to go in the mail.

 

can you please amend my entry please Stubbo, my BT4 ( with the #10 on the side ) will be on its way tomorrow morning along with Oldslots Ferrari,

 

Tech details;

 

Body by Stubbo

SRP donk

9 tooth SRP pinion

24 tooth offset SlotIt crown

Pauls tyres

SlotIt guide

NSR braids

58 grams

 

Was looking forward to seeing how the BT11 would go, but thats the way it is, I now have 12 months to get the BT11 sorted!

Edited by terry
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Not good news here either, Terry - clear coat didn't go on very well at all... no time to strip it now - it will have to run as is.... dust, eh? - you gotta love it - comes out of nowhere even when you take the greatest of care.... must have got a gust of wind through the garage openings whilst it was flattening down.. grrrr!.

 

frats,

Rosco

Edited by rosco01
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Why is it that for some reason the build goes off the rails at the last breath?

 

Today I just got some track time with the car, all okay, I managed to put in a couple of quite quick laps, I'm thinking "here we go" and then the pace dropped off by 2 or 3 tenths and then worse, so I'm thinking what the ????

 

Somehow this car has been so erratic with the lap times and I'm thinking it has to be a fundamental error here somewhere, but time does not permit a strip down and whatever may come from that, so back to the red brabham and straight away I'm cutting good consistent laps, really at the end of todays play it was a no brainer.

 

Cars are now packed down to the PO tomorrow,

 

Another proxy in the bag, love it!

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Hi All

I neglected to take a pic of Old #4 but probably just as well as the body is somewhat shabby after a couple of Tasman seasons under it's belt, however here's the specs.

Body: Tassie resins Cooper T62 liveried as Lex Davidson's car

Chassis; scratchbuilt brass and piano wire. Revised front axle to a solid axle using 1/16 pianowire in brass tube with sleeves to front wheel centres. Revised rear frame with Slot it steel gimble bearings soldered to piano wire uprights. repositioned motor forward slightly to change weight distribution. Revised suspension detail for better attachment to chassis.

Motor: SRP speed16

Wheels/tyres RS slotracing F&R, Tassie resin tyres/ Front & Paul Gage eurathanes/ Rear

Guide: Modified Ninco pro Braid: NSR soft.

Gears: BWA 9t pinion to Slot it offset 26t CW. ( had to use 26t as didn't have smaller offset CW in stock)

Not the ideal set up but hopefully an improvement on last year.

Alan

Edited by lenny broke
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Hi folk,

as promised, pix of Bill's car re-numbered correctly to #9.

 

The only numerals I was able to find are a little small compared to the prototype and I have not positioned the front one far enough forward.

Not happy with the clear coat... spent a bit of time this morning attempting to rub out some of the dust embedded in the finish.

 

The chassis runs well (it should, it's done nothing since last year's series) after a clean and re-lube.

Hopefully, Bill will enjoy another exciting tour as he again competes in the series events.

 

Pix..

 

9%202_zpsbfnplb1n.jpg

 

9%201_zpslwleeebp.jpg

 

And - these are the pix I modeled his car from -

 

Bill%20Patterson%20mail_zpsjr9ka2oj.jpg

 

Bill%20Patterson%20Longford%201965%20cropped_zps6aktbryv.jpg

 

He is now about to be delivered to the entrants' paddock.. good luck, Bill..

 

frats,

Rosco

Edited by rosco01
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This is what Im running this year

Brabham BT11a, no particular livery, when it comes back It'll be fitted with the #4 to represent Black Jacks 64' 11a

 

Tasman%202016%20Brabham%20BT11A%20018_zpsju48wtno.jpg

 

Tasman%202016%20Brabham%20BT11A%20025_zps4m0nuvmr.jpg

 

Tasman%202016%20Brabham%20BT11A%20030_zpskcefcqak.jpg

 

tasman%202016%20BT11a%20007_zpsu1lb9deb.jpg

 

tasman%202016%20BT11a%20008_zpshnwuuno3.jpg

 

Slot It guide

9:23 gearing (offset slot It crown, Scalex pinion)

BWA rears (15") PG Tyres

Slo fronts

Body is from Stubbos' stable (SBW)

Chassis ( a slo number)

Motor SRP

Color green/gold

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