DRMF1 Posted October 8, 2015 Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 (edited) Hi all Seems Murphy is having a go at me, my track arrived but didn't fit the lift so I needed to hire an expensive hoist to get it up to my apartment. Then I discovered that the delivery drive north from the ACT to Qld had separated the copper tape in several places and led to one track not working whilst the other only worked for about 2 metres. After investigating and repairing said copper tape, I then had one lane running fully and one working in places. Further checks and repairs had this second track running but on full power - without any input from the controller. What's more, that would only occur once I had plugged in the hand controller to the track. The controller had no effect on the power the car was experiencing - full on and undriveable. Part of the attraction to a return to slot cars is the chance to widen my horizons, but it needs to be said that at this stage my electrical knowledge is borderline pre school level. I am learning but need some help. In trying to figure what might be happening I reversed the wiring from the power base to the track - which did nothing of course ( I actually set it up initially reversed and experienced exactly the same symptoms but on the alternate lane) - and now both lanes are seemingly dead again. The power base is still working and indicating correct power to the track but nothing seems to be happening. There was no smoke, fumes or indication of having blown anything so I am a little lost. Any ideas? Thanks Dan Edited October 8, 2015 by DRMF1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZeGas Posted October 8, 2015 Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 Sounds like a short. the controller creates a loop when the trigger is pulled creating the circuit, if the trigger isn't pulled and you get full power means that there is a connection somewhere else. out of curiosity are you testing with the same controller for each lane. Best thing to do is put a volt meter on the track to check it out (so you don't wreck your cars) and check along track and at controller plug on the track. Check around the plug connection to see if a wire or solder is touching, it may have bent over in transit. Quote Cheers Grant . Home Track..........Corvette C1 Build..........McLaren M1A Build..........Maserati 300S Build..........Allard J2 Build..........50's Diner..........Iso Griffo A3C 3D Printed Adjustable Chassis..........3D Print Projects If life gives you lemons, take them, free s#!t is cool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
munter Posted October 8, 2015 Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 Do you have a wiring diagram that you can follow? Quote John Warren Slotcars are my preferred reality Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRMF1 Posted October 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 Thanks ZeGas I'll check it tomorrow. As for the wiring Munter it is pretty basic underneath so once I start poking around with my multi meter it might become obvious to this blind man. I'll check the plugs and to be honest I was trying so many different things I can't remember if I used only one controller or not. Probably at some point. They are both Slot It SCP1 units, one fitted with the cartridge for 1/32 and 1/24 the other is standard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kalbfellp Posted October 8, 2015 Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 Are both the controllers positive wired? Is it a Scalex power base you are using? I would suspect one fvthe above as the track would hsve been test run before being transported, and it is very unluckily that the wiring would have been damaged during transport. Quote Phil https://www.hobartminiaturecarclub.com/ Email Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRMF1 Posted October 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 Good points Phil. Thanks I will get onto Dangermouse who I got them from. In the meantime, how do I tell if it is positively wired and how do I rectify it if it is. I will also check with Andrew who built the track. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRMF1 Posted October 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 (edited) Phil, this is the power unit I am using, http://www.jaycar.co...Supply/p/MP3800 Dan Edited October 8, 2015 by DRMF1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRMF1 Posted October 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 Are both the controllers positive wired? Is it a Scalex power base you are using? I would suspect one fvthe above as the track would hsve been test run before being transported, and it is very unluckily that the wiring would have been damaged during transport. Actually Phil just thought, I did use both of the controllers on the lane that worked so they both did the job. But when I plugged either into the second plug it powered up on full power as described. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangermouse Posted October 8, 2015 Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 Both controllers are positive wired Hi Dan sent you a text message - can give you a call if you want The full power suggests to me there is an issue with the way the plug is wired - check to see if the the wiring on full power lane matches the wiring on the good lane - at the plug - I am thinking the one of the wires has to be on the wrong side. You will also want to take the modules out of the controllers and check the fuses - the blue module takes 20a continuous and 40amp peak so I it may have been ok with a short from you PS as it is 18a peak - the standard is 3.15a You may have popped the fuses - the standard controller uses 3.15amp fast blow fuses - I bought them from Jaycar. I am assuming neither controller works on the good lane now? cheers David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kalbfellp Posted October 8, 2015 Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 If the fuse is blown the controller will not do anything. Agree sounds like transposed wiring in the one plug or socket. Quote Phil https://www.hobartminiaturecarclub.com/ Email Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRMF1 Posted October 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 Thanks David, that all makes sense. You are correct that neither controller is working now. I will pick up some fuses first thing and then check the plugs at the first opportunity. Sorry, missed your SMS but thanks for your help. BTW the cars were running really well while things were working. The black Audi particularly liked the tight layout close second was the Corvette. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRMF1 Posted October 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 Thanks Phil, that sounds pretty good to me to so I'll check and let you know. Cheers Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kalbfellp Posted October 8, 2015 Report Share Posted October 8, 2015 (edited) The blow fuses usually means that the feed to the controller is the wrong polarity, check the wiring on the good lane and compare to bad lane you will most likley find two wires transposed. Edited October 8, 2015 by kalbfellp Quote Phil https://www.hobartminiaturecarclub.com/ Email Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRMF1 Posted October 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2015 Guys, it looks like one of the wires was in a different junction at the plug, although both before and after I rectified it I have no power to the lanes. I have power from power base to the plugs - multi meter confirms correct voltage to the plugs but from there it goes south. No power from plug to track. Would it be as simple as replacing the wiring? After all, yesterday it was working well on one lane and power - albeit an incorrect level of - was getting to the other lane, but now there is nothing. This is fun isn't it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
munter Posted October 9, 2015 Report Share Posted October 9, 2015 A wiring diagram and careful check against it would have you sorted.....I reckon. Quote John Warren Slotcars are my preferred reality Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kalbfellp Posted October 9, 2015 Report Share Posted October 9, 2015 http://www.auslot.com/forums/index.php?/topic/14334-controller-wiring/page__pid__164364#entry164364 This link may be of help, plug pin out will probably be different, but shows the basic wiring. Quote Phil https://www.hobartminiaturecarclub.com/ Email Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
32coupe Posted October 9, 2015 Report Share Posted October 9, 2015 I had the track up and working with the plugs we use in NSW, I re-wired to the QLD plug the best I could, as I don't have a QLD wired controller I couldn't test it after the change. Could someone local with knowledge of QLD wiring give Dan a visit? It may be as simple as 2 transposed wires on the plugs. Quote A man without a woman is like a neck without a pain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kalbfellp Posted October 9, 2015 Report Share Posted October 9, 2015 The Queensland wiring should be positive to the right pin looking at the plug as the controller plugs in. Left plug out to right side of the track, Negative feed from supply to the round pin and out to the left side of each lane. I think some posted the controller wiring recently for Lenny Broke, possibly Kim? Quote Phil https://www.hobartminiaturecarclub.com/ Email Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRMF1 Posted October 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2015 Thanks Phil. It is the other way around atm. I spent some time playing around with the wiring last night and actually managed to power up both lanes for the first time but when I plugged in the controller the car died where it sat. So I returned it to it's initial configuration until I get another chance to try out your advice. Based on what you say I reckon that will do it as it is about the only thing I didn't try last night. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRMF1 Posted October 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2015 (edited) Not a biggy Andrew, I view this as a valuable and necessary learning exercise and it has proven to be not only enjoyable but incredible to read the suggestions and advice from others. That alone has been gold. I got to try out one lane the other day and the cars ran well so I know what to look forward to. I will rewire to Phil's suggestion and see what happens. Mind you, just like a large screen TV, I can already see a much bigger track in my future... Edited October 10, 2015 by DRMF1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZeGas Posted October 10, 2015 Report Share Posted October 10, 2015 If you are still having issues try getting hold of Garry Johnson (GarryJ), he should be able to help out. He is based in Birkdale. Quote Cheers Grant . Home Track..........Corvette C1 Build..........McLaren M1A Build..........Maserati 300S Build..........Allard J2 Build..........50's Diner..........Iso Griffo A3C 3D Printed Adjustable Chassis..........3D Print Projects If life gives you lemons, take them, free s#!t is cool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
32coupe Posted October 10, 2015 Report Share Posted October 10, 2015 The Queensland wiring should be positive to the right pin looking at the plug as the controller plugs in. Left plug out to right side of the track, Negative feed from supply to the round pin and out to the left side of each lane. That's what I have as the wiring, just check that that is what you still have. Positive starts out as Red, and changes to brown between the plugs. Negative starts out as green, and changes to black. The blue is supply to the lane from the plug. Hope that helps Quote A man without a woman is like a neck without a pain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRMF1 Posted October 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2015 (edited) Withdrawn by member as the track is now working. Edited October 10, 2015 by DRMF1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRMF1 Posted October 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2015 Ladies and Gentlemen start your engines. Both lanes are firing. I can't thank you all enough for your help. I have sent cars around both lanes without any apparent issues. :D :D :D :D :D :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kalbfellp Posted October 10, 2015 Report Share Posted October 10, 2015 Great now to run plenty of laps to lay down some rubber. Quote Phil https://www.hobartminiaturecarclub.com/ Email Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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