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lenny broke

Arduino Board And Deadstrips ??

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Hi Guys,

I'm looking to use RC on an Arduino board with deadstrips on my new track and I need some info before I go ahead with it.

 

Firstly which board would you recommend to use on a four lane track?

and...

What length would you make the dead strip? Given that it will be located on a fairly fast section of track.

 

I'm going for dead strips rather than IR sensors on a light bridge mainly because I will be dismantling the track when not in use and the less bit's to connect and or likely to break off the better.

 

Thanks in advance

Alan

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i asked about dead strips with the board, noone has done it yet. the board does show laps if you touch the sensor to the earth but i'm not sure how it will go with a car tripping it.

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I believe that slingslotx has done dead strips on a few tracks, and put the info up on his website...

 

As for which arduino, the Uno has enough inputs/outputs for a 4 lane track, complete with start lights, individual power relays, and a track call button.

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It seems that it was on the 'other' forum

 

I was asked if I could help someone connect a deadstrip up to an arduino, so not knowing anything about electronics I did a bit of searching and came up with the following diagram. Each lane use 4 components, and should protect the Arduino from excess track voltage. The important bit is the zenner diode which will stop anything over 4.7 volts going to the Arduino pin (which will go bang if it is connected to anything > 5V), the other bits are my attempt simply to stop noise triggering false laps.

 

I think there should be a better way to reject noise, using lower value resistors. I've run about 200 laps on this with no missed laps at all, and no smoking arduino. So if you fancy a deadstrip instead of IR then this may give you a starting point.

 

DSC_0002.jpg

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Alan we have several tracks usung IR sensors and no light bridge. These tracks just use good lighting in the room.

If you need more info on these sensors contact me.

Only problem is that the sensors need to be on a straight where marshals do not lean over the sensors very often.

My track uses the Dunlop bridge over the sensors, But the bridge lifts off the track easily as it is fitted with a jack plug on the bridge and a socket mounted on the track.

The dead strips will need some more circuitry if you want to run both directions.

 

PS any generic Ardunio UNO board will do the job, I am using genuine UNO and 3 generic boards and only thing different was that one board required a USB/ Serial driver to be loaded.

Edited by kalbfellp

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Found his site again...

http://slngshotx.wix.com/slingshot-racing#!projects/cm8a

 

It can be a bit buggy on some browsers though...

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Hi Guys

Thanks for all the responses, while you were all doing that I was away at SFI and found a lot of what you posted myself.

Seeing as me and electronica have this love hate relationship that usually involves smoke I might have to get someone with a bit more nous that I to get involved to make this up

Cheers, Alan

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Or you could use the in-slot IR sensors. I have always been a bit suspicious of them, as our faster cars are capable of passing a stock length guide through the slot in less than 1/1000th of a second on long straights, which was the pulse time for the original trackmate, and cars with shallow or blue slots might not trigger them.

 

But these days with good car setup, maybe none of those issues matter anymore.


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Wayne is pretty cluey on the Arduino set up thingy.. 100mm deadstrips with a 10mm gap at each end between the live braid


* Avatar used with permission

 

Normal people worry me

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