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55 Chev Nascar


Wobble

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I'm considering doing a 55 Chev in this Nascar livery. I've got decals for it but don't really want to put them on the wrong body

 

dcf7a2d5-8571-4903-ae4d-ca15f61346c6-zpsc3k1nnez.jpg

 

This car appears to be based on the 150 or 210 2dr version and I'm hoping to modify a Snaptite 2dr hardtop kit which means adding a few mm to the roof and taking a similar amount out of the boot lid plus changes around the window lines etc.

 

Fortunately the kit is polystyrene so that is probably the way to go. Any tips on doing this kind of conversion would be gratefully accepted.

 

DSCF4534.jpg

Edited by Wobble
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I would cut across the roof just behind the B pilars and around the base of the C pilars

removing the rear section from the body

cut and bend a piece of styrene that is wider than the amount you want to extend to fit on the inside of the roof

glue the styrene to the roof section that is still attached to the car

then sit the removed piece where you want it and Mark it then glue the section to the styrene and the bottom to the body

when all is dry cut another piece of styrene that fits in the gap in the roof

then bend to shape and glue into the gap

fill and sand leaving a slight feathering so joins don't show after painting

trim the boot section that is now on the inside of the New roof position

 

hope that helps Bram

good luck

  • Upvote 1

Holdens rule the rest just drool

 

slot cars are my drug,

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Thanks for that Dave. I figured you'd be one to know the tricks.

 

After having a closer look at photos of 1:1 cars on google, it appears the boot lid might be common to both models which means I won't need to shorten it but just take the bottom of the rear window closer to it. Seems like the difference in this scale is about 3-4 mm. It means I can also retain the kit rear window and although it appears to be slightly more wrap around than the 2dr version, it'll be easier just to use it and shouldn't look too much out of place hopefully.

 

Now, where's the razor saw?

Edited by Wobble
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So started work on it.

As there is no B pillar I decided to chop at the highest point of the roof. Also took the bit below the bottom of the rear window out as well.

I figured it was easier doing that than trying to duplicate it.

 

51b3e710-2640-4a4a-8d4c-c6f37c6e5ead-zpsid7pr1gi.jpg

 

Roof sitting in situ, shouldn't be too far out with 4mm or so added

 

2a9da9c9-e1e1-4823-9cf9-60bace6bd64e-zpsbtgmxxef.jpg

Edited by Wobble
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looking good mate

 

Thanks Dave, getting there. Any tips on what to fill along the panels up to the window line. I've got some old DUCO putty that I've used a bit before for thinner fills although I was also thinking about using some JB Kwik in the deeper bit to start the fill.

 

Also, I'll need to make a rain channel along the side of the roof fill to meet up with the other. Any tips on that too?

 

Also started filling the bonnet where the blower pokes through. 1mm sheet glued in behind and 1mm rod scraped on 3 sides for the centre line.

 

It's slightly proud but by the time filling and sanding etc is done it should be pretty near

 

4dd8f89f-ba35-4941-84a8-159030f569a1-zpsvnr8uhto.jpg

Edited by Wobble
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I would use duco over JB weld

JB is bittle especially JB kwik

 

that said Viv ( Munters resin twin ) has used JB weld on his modified bodies

and then finished them off with modelers putty

 

so long as you give the area a good sand first either way should be fine

 

as for the rain channel it is a bit hard to see how small the detail is in the pic

if it is quite fine I would just use filler and sand to shape

but if it is possible build it up with a skinny strip of styrene and fill and smooth out with filler

 

I am very sure that how ever you go about it Bram it will come out good

I have a lot of faith in your abilities

you have proven that in you last builds

Holdens rule the rest just drool

 

slot cars are my drug,

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Getting closer, tricky bit of shaping and gluing roof extension in place. Would've been easier if I cut a straight line.

Now on to the exciting job of sanding and filling and sanding and filling and.....

 

e31b716e-77d6-4db8-8276-caf840932048-zpsnruft9mi.jpg

Edited by Wobble
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keep up the good work

just remember to patch prime and sand the filler putty before priming the hole car

that way you wont get sinking and then seeing where the filler is after the final coat

can't wait to see it finished

 

as you know the 55 chev is my all time favorite car

Holdens rule the rest just drool

 

slot cars are my drug,

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  • 8 months later...

Finally got round to having another go at this and I'm thinking it's just about ready for paint although I might need to chew a bit out of the rear arches to get the Flock car look..

Sitting on a shortened (7mm) Pioneer Dodge Charger chassis and also the front axle has been moved forward 5mm to allow the guide to sit inside the body. Also it looks like it might need slightly bigger diameter tyres too.

 

efeab964-a50e-4fbe-99b2-ceb9b8ec6344-zps4cyos0x0.jpg

Edited by Wobble
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Nice work man

2019 NZ RTR Nationals Gt 3rd

2017 NZ RTR Nationals NSR Classic 2nd

2017 NZ RTR Nationals Group C 3rd

2017 NSR Classic Challenge 3rd

2015 NSR Classic Challenge 2nd

2014 NSR Classic Challenge 3rd

2015 Garden City Invitation Overall Champion

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  • 2 weeks later...

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