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rosco01

Slot-It Scp-2 Fg Controller Connections And Operation

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Hi folk,

the workspace has cleared sufficiently to now allow me to open the last of my birthday presents... the SCP-2 fg.

 

I intend to wire this up to conform to club use - but also for my primitive home layout.

Fortunately, I do NOT employ any commercial power-base unit.. so, I am not tethered to conforming with its positive common orientation....

 

When I returned this time to the hobby, I had issues with my old Scalextric controllers... will include pic later - for historic purposes.

 

I wanted something more permanent than fitting those plastic double poled plugs under the track - and the resultant memories of bad connections and little mounds though the contact rails... along with the ever-present small screwdriver mark to physically depress the rail onto the plug terminal.... grrrrrrr

 

In my initial purchases of this re-entry, I believed the Scalextric manual/electronic lap counter could be utilised to both make the connections to the track and furnish our racing with electronic means...

 

The very heavy springs on the lane trigger eventually resulted in quite some extensive modifications to bring them to "hair trigger" operations - with consistent and fault-free registration as each car passed through the "gate"... in both directions.

 

Having ironed out those bugs - it was time to make further modifications and incorporate a lap-counter/hard wired connection to the track.

I did this by tapping into the rail mounts and connected both lanes up to a 3.5 mm stereo plug on the side face of the lap counter.

 

I then made up an aluminium junction box with power input from a power supply and then on to 3.5 mm stereo plug connectors.

They then allowed use of any of my Scalextric controllers - by adding a 3.5 mm stereo plug...

The three connections being power in, controller power out and finally the link to throttle off for brake.

I employed a common hard wire from the power supply to the track - it, of course also connected the brake switch to the trigger rest on the controller - if the switch was set to "brake".

 

On the face of this box - I fitted a track direction DPDT switch - so that I could reverse running of any "stray" car that came along with its wiring reversed.. and also provided direction change to break up any monotony.

 

I wanted to wire in a safety factor preventing opposite direction travel between cars.. but this would have negated the benefit of accommodating the "stray".

 

A simple toggle switch provided brake on or off... but, this was simply a switch which connected the "stop" end of the resistor board to the trigger... isolated from the resistor itself.

 

So, we ran for quite some time with all these nice little additions proving quite reliable and completely negated the need to pull track connectors from the power rails...

 

Along came the purchase of a Carrera infra-red lap counter.... which afforded the F1 type count-down of lights to start and an extended array of timing and lap recording... without the "clunk" every time one of the cars passed through the "hair trigger".... incidentally, no matter how finely set (and mine were infinitely fine) - wear marks on guides became an issue.....

 

So, next step - was to re-wire some of the controllers - as the 30 and 40 year old resistor wiring was potentially at its working life end...

 

I ended up making up some very intricate resistors from toaster ribbon... and fabricated some clever (if I don't mind saying so myself) arrangements to afford plenty of ventilation and extend the circuit of ribbon...

I used some circuit board minus the copper track side and assembled a "cross-hair" arrangement which allowed me to run the ribbon around the open frame...

This worked a treat - the controllers no longer became warm.. and I could run the modern low current draw motors using resistances of up around 65 ohms....

Formerly, my "race tuned" controllers (25 ohms) - would launch these modern Carrera and Scalextric cars into burn outs immediately the trigger wiper hit the first strand of wire..... my new inventions allowed me to tame them down.....and the ability to actually get some control other than an almost off/on problematic discipline....

 

So, (nearly there) - we now have some dedicated ancient controllers with differing resistors.... simply unplugging one and connecting another of a differing ohm value - afforded running modern cars with my antiques... and it was fun again....

 

Then I found this forum... and all heck broke loose again.... I learned of diode controllers (wished I'd known before going to all the extremes of manufacturing those ribbon resistors)... and eventually one chap from a local slot car group made contact (thanks, Chris) and offered and invitation to inspect his home made controller....

 

After joining this group - I was made aware - and witnessed a PM controller.. with "knobs".. this really began to appeal - but the price did not!

 

One of the chaps turned up with a Slot-It SCP-1... and on chasing up pricing - and also becoming aware of the revised SCP-2 - I waited... my birthday presented an opportune moment for my children to ask the pending question "what can we get you.....?".. of course, I played "lame" on this for a minute or two - the allowed them to see the "light-bulb" illuminate....

 

End result - I have this SCP-2... and can't yet use it....

 

I would be keen for someone to share a wiring diagram illustrating the connections... nominally, viewing connectors with pins facing away - in the direction that they would be for insertion into a club female socket.... left pin, right pin and centre pin...

 

JPHanna and Shadow-Rusty have given some excellent suggestions for settings.. and I hope they will repeat those here - should anyone later on wish to follow this now long winded thread.

 

I further now intend to ditch the Scalextric lap counter and simply make up a connector hard wired to a "C" section of Scalextric track.. this would run back to my aluminium connection box... and afford use of all controllers plus this SCP-2.

 

A simply patch lead will connect the 240v AC socket at the end of the SCP-2 to the 3.5mm stereo jack on the box.....

 

Did I come in under 1,000 words?... this is my quest for the remainder of the year... per post....

 

frats,

Rosco

Edited by rosco01

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Rosco, I am not much of a techno person, I don't understand a lot about electronics and resistors etc. Sounds like you need someone close by, to see your set up, and help you get it all working and then show you how to set up the controller. I hope you can get some help with it. John


Shed People Mutual Admiration Society

2 times Australian National Champion

1991-Flexicar 1999- Group 12 Sedan

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Thanks John,

I post far too much - and confuse most who try to navigate through my drivel....

 

Basically, I believe I've got all I need to simply wire it up... just need the connections to the female 240v plug... the rest of it is pretty much already done.

 

All it will mean, when I've connected this SCP-2 to the female plug - is that I can use it on my own track...

 

It's just three connections - one from supply positive, one to the track positive and one to the track negative... but I certainly need to confirm what the female 240v socket connections are before I connect the controller to them.

 

Thanks for your reply, John (if you don't mind me using your real name) - you are the first team to arrive on this thread...

 

frats,

Rosco

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A simple adaptor lead works very well for me.

I use XLR plugs at home, but our club uses Aus-110v plugs, and the local raceway uses the more common Aus-240v sockets as per below.

 

Here is the pinout for the controller using standard 240v connectors.

Compliments of our site sponsor too...

pwr01.jpg

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Thanks SR - that's exactly what I wanted.

 

Now, I simply don't know who was the first person to assign the colours and terminal uses for what I now understand to be "standard".

It most certainly is NOT what I would have considered... or ever guessed...

 

Please correct me if I have any of the following incorrect.

 

240v terminal reference - then polarity/source/output - and finally lead colour.

 

Let's start with the Active terminal on a 240v plug/socket -

From the power supply negative to both the brake input of the controller AND the track negative rail..... lead colour = RED.

 

The Neutral terminal of the plug/socket -

From the power supply positive to the controller - lead colour = WHITE or YELLOW.

 

On my Slot-It SCP-2 controller, this lead has a white sleeve and also an in-line 20A fuse to protect the controller back to the positive power supply.

 

The Earth terminal of the plug/socket -

From the controller to the track positive rail... lead colour - BLACK.

 

 

Think that's as easy and specific as I can describe what I now understand to be the "club" code.

 

Correct me if I have any of it wrong..

 

frats,

Rosco

Edited by rosco01

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Just to bring it into the 'correct' thread...

 

My advice on the Slot.it controllers...

 

1. Lin/Cur switch set to Lin.

2. Set the Anti Spin (Green) and Sensativity (Yellow) knobs to minimum

3. Set the Brake (Red) knob to maximum

4. Set 'Fast / Standard / Slow' switch to 'Med'

5. Set Curve (Light Blue) knob to maximum

6. Pull the trigger ~5%, and turn up the Yellow knob till the car just moves.

 

 

Note 1: The Green knob is great for 'unruley' cars as it 'softens' the wheelspin by ramping up to the current trigger position over 'x' number of milliseconds.

 

Note 2: Faster lap times are usually recorded by turning down the brakes, but a good starting point is still full brakes as that's all a standard / parma controller have and it's what most people are used to.

 

Note 3: Don't be afraid to enable 'kids mode'. This will turn the 'Curve' knob into a maximum power knob (When on LIN and on 'Slow' on the top switch).

To enable kids mode, unplug the controller, set the 'Fast / Standard / Slow' switch to 'Med', press and hold the brake button, plug in the controller, and set the 'Fast / Standard / Slow' switch to 'Slow'

 

The smaller capacity version is fine for most plastic chassis cars, and it now comes as duel polarity.

3 of our guys have recently brought these. Changing from PM controllers, the two guys who race RC were able to master them quickly, but the other guy took some months to get used to all the adjustments.

JP you can brag that you have a Bespoked controller made just for you. Also backup is never far away!

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Thanks everyone - job done..

 

Espsix - too late... 10 amp and trimmed off the clear plastic shroud..... cover is now flush with face of socket.

 

All wired up now and rear'in' to go....

 

frats,

Rosco

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