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rosco01

Cooper T53 Mk 2 - Second Build

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Thanks Phil... I have never cast my own tyres... (yet)... I know nothing of the process nor ingredients... or the shore outcomes.

Again, thanks for clearing this up.

 

frats,

Rosco

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1 hour ago, Kevan said:

Hmm...interesting :rolleyes:

Not sure that it will work, Kevan... and whether it is worthwhile for the amount of effort involved. Involves tapping the end of each side of the axle... as mentioned, a lot of work - probably to no avail.... and one more thing a car can be sent home as a "dnf".... 

 

frats,

Rosco

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You can't back pedal like that bud, you teased with an idea and some of us want to see it :mellow:


Print It, Build It, Race It, Improve It, Repeat...B)

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I have a free-wheeler bike, Kevan..... no brakes..... back pedaling doe nothing but make noise....

I'll explain the method if it works.... certainly adds more work to a front axle... but may pay off in handling.... 

You'll need a 10 BA tap and some 10 BA counter-sunk screws...... if I say any more, I'll give the entire invention away... 

Hint... take a close look at the outside surface of an aluminium wheel..... when we make these, we use a centering drill - and it puts a bevel into the end of the hub... that should give it all away.... 

 

I went this way, because I didn't want to destroy my wheel inserts every time I needed to fit new front tyres.

Ordinarily, one would simply loosen off the grub screw and pop the wheel off.... but my front wheels are not grubbed - they are fitted with the Slot-It eyelets into a hollow axle...... 

This involves destroying the wheel insert to get the eyelet out... I wanted better than that and came up with this screw arrangement.... so far, it works - but, be warned - you'll gouge out the end of the wheel unless you dress the chamfer on the BA screw..... the slot in it, if damaged with a screwdriver will make a very sharp tool for gouging out the end of the wheel hub.... 

I've come up with a way around that too..... 

 

Until I give this a 1,000 laps - I won't know if it works... or will not fail in running...... and, as is my usual practice/luck..... if it can go wrong - it will, and at the worst possible time.

Adjusting the screw does away with shimming altogether... a tiny bit of c/a on the thread will lock the screw into the axle - but not enough so that it can't be removed...

And - to access the screw once fitted to a wheel - simply drill the centre of the insert out.... do all your re-tyring/adjusting etc. etc..... and plug the little hole with a dollop of putty and paint over......

 

Do i need to patent this idea?.... or has someone preceded me....?

 

There you go - back pedaled and changed up a gear in the process.... remember where you heard this first...

 

frats,

Rosco

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Yes Phil, 

completely forgot about that one.... I have the MRRC (which I believe is also Airfix) Alan Jones Williams..... it has a steering front end with independent front wheels.... I bought a "spare" front end for that model - I was always doubtful that it would "last".... but, it has.... and it runs very well. I put a larger motor into it than as supplied and it was "the" rocket of the '80's when I was in the hobby for a spell at that time in my life.... 

 

frats,

Rosco

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Hi folk,

taken a week, but finally finished the chassis build... ready for the paint shop for some etch primer - then the classic light grey gloss that Cooper used in their T-53's.... 

I have not gone to the same length with chassis detail in this build... I would not have time to get it ready for the upcoming Tasman Cup series... 

But, I did fit upper and lower wishbones.. the upper arms from 0.5 mm brass rod, the lower ones from 1.0 mm rod. The brake backing plates were carefully marked out, cut and drilled using a set of pointers and a ruler to mark them up... 

The front plates are soldered to the axle tube, the rear ones have clearance around the axle.

The dampers and springs were made from 1.0 mm brass rod and the springs made by stripping some electrical lead and using the suitable sized strand which was wound around a darning needle... all soldered into place.

I am not going to polish the brass - it is fairly rough after cleaning up with a diamond bit....... which will be an excellent surface for the 1K etch to get a mechanical purchase on.

 

We are now back to the body.... it is currently in guide coat and awaits the second blocking down.

My thinking for colour is transparent green over the top of gold.. leaving the gold as a centre strip which flares out around the nose..... and also the three roundels for the competitor number.... 

I do appreciate this model is not proto-typical of anything which did race.... but I am making use of the "fantasy" clause in the entrant conditions... 

 

Ok.. pix all explanatory...

 

001-chassis-complete-mail.jpg

 

 

002-chassis-complete-mail.jpg

 

 

003-chassis-complete-mail.jpg

 

 

004-chassis-complete-mail.jpg

 

 

So, tomorrow we are back in the paint shop... 

 

frats,

Rosco

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Very nice work Rosco, that should drive really nicely.

The ally spur gear is interesting, where can you get these?


Print It, Build It, Race It, Improve It, Repeat...B)

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6 hours ago, Kevan said:

Very nice work Rosco, that should drive really nicely.

The ally spur gear is interesting, where can you get these?

Hi Kevan, these gears are likely quite hard to find these days,.......they were made by Ranch Design, and are 64P. They also did a few 64P pinions.........sadly, they have been gone for quite a few years now. Not bad quality, but, they did benefit from some lapping compound.

 

 I am sure you just made a typo/brain fade, but that Spur is actually a Crown....:D

 

Cheers

Chris Walker

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58 minutes ago, Chrisguyw said:

Hi Kevan, these gears are likely quite hard to find these days,.......they were made by Ranch Design, and are 64P. They also did a few 64P pinions.........sadly, they have been gone for quite a few years now. Not bad quality, but, they did benefit from some lapping compound.

 

 I am sure you just made a typo/brain fade, but that Spur is actually a Crown....:D

 

Cheers

Chris Walker

 

I call all axle mounted gears driven by a pinion a spur, probably habit...I'll try learning a new habit and call it a crown in future ;)

Edited by Kevan

Print It, Build It, Race It, Improve It, Repeat...B)

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Yes, Kevan.... from Ranch Design - so too the wheels.

Ember put me onto the small crowns when she was making her first T/C proxy entry.... she found them when looking for a very small crown to fit inside some tiny models.. which she took a passion into adding to her collection.

From memory, RD made them for 1/64 scale F1's..... you might be able to contact Steve and find out if he still has the tools for cutting these - but I doubt he'd do a small run... so, perhaps anyone in this forum should make contact and pool up an order.. that might tempt him into a production run.

Steve at Ranch Design made four sets of the crown/pinion and wheels for me... I had intentions of making four Coopers, but it now looks as if there will only be three... 

The wheels are excellent.. and the recess is a perfect fit for the trimmed down Cooper inserts that Munter adds to his kit... as I will use in this build.

I don't know that there is any advantage using the small crown in a model which can be fitted with a larger one - but they mesh lovely, once you bed them in... key to it is setting them up with shims so that there is virtually no backlash in the mesh, nor side play in the axle between bushes.... I like to run them with only the graphite from a 2B pencil (softest).... it prevents muck getting into them from the track - grease and oil certainly attract it and the mesh suffers. Using this very soft graphite, they seem to stay very clean and the mesh does not "grow" tolerance.

This second build is a lot lighter than build #1... I have deliberately tried to put this one on a strict diet... gouging out more from the body - especially anything up high, and trimming back a lot of excess brass in the brackets.... 

Can anyone tell me a ratio that is general rule of thumb for a weight balance between axles.... I have around 60% rear and 40% front (see, my Maths teacher didn't waste all of her time on me) at present.. but can add a little more if there is a more established formula..... 

I can't add weight out on the edges of the wire... it "just" clears the body now with enough for a floating fit..... and the body is so thin, I can't take it out any more.

The wire rails just have clearance around the motor as well... I'm hoping this little model will be easy for the proxy teams to drive.... I don't have a layout, and have to rely on just a small plastic Scalextric track to ensure it will run smoothly..... so, as #1 was entered - it's pretty much a crude level of tune...... hopefully, it won't disgrace my work and be a slug.... that no-one really wants to run around a track....

 

Back working on the body today... a week should have the model almost completed... then back to the LJ.

 

frats,

Rosco

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I always aim at about 60/40 rear/front


Print It, Build It, Race It, Improve It, Repeat...B)

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Thanks Kevan, I'm in the "ball park" then..... let's see where it comes out with paint and all fittings....

I have tried to go light with this build... stand alone chassis without any fitting is 14.4 g and bare body 6.1 g...

Chassis balance = front 8.1 g - rear 6.3 g....... changes dramatically with motor and screws fitted.

Body  balance = front 4.0  g-  rear 2.1 g

frats,

Rosco

Edited by rosco01
append

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Thanks OS-62..... I'm hoping it will come up nicely with some Cooper grey chassis paint on it.... and maybe pick out some of the suspension detail in chrome ink..... maybe.... yet to be tried..

 

frats,

Rosco

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Contradiction in terms, Shaynus...."add" lightness.... 

I now flinch every time I am forced to lay another pass of very thin paint on this model..... I really have tried to keep this one light.

Might all end up in a pile of bits the first time it hits a barrier..... but, OH&S will be happy to note that anyone needed to collect the remnants won't struggle with the effort to lift them......

 

frats,

Rosco

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Have to agree with the others ..... looking good so far, but wouldn't expect anything less Ross.

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bram1_zpsfkhrhndv.jpg

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""Throughout the company’s eight decades, it is innovation on road and track that has been key in delivering success. At the root of our DNA is Colin Chapman’s obsession with light weight. 
“Simplify, then add lightness”, he said. 
It was his philosophy, way before ‘minimalism’ became fashionable.

“Adding power makes you faster on the straights; subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere”, was another of Chapman’s premises. ""

B)

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40 minutes ago, Shaynus said:

“Adding power makes you faster on the straights; subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere”, was another of Chapman’s premises. ""

B)

 

Doesn't seem to work in our Slot cars though, the old timers would say keep adding weight until the laptimes start slowing...and tyres come before speed and weight.


Print It, Build It, Race It, Improve It, Repeat...B)

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1 hour ago, Kevan said:

 

Doesn't seem to work in our Slot cars though, the old timers would say keep adding weight until the laptimes start slowing...and tyres come before speed and weight.

As I age Kevan.... I'm getting more frail.... my hand is forced with making models lighter.. so that I can carry more...... 

 

frats,

Rosco

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Ok folk,

 time to post some more up.... Cooper #2 is nearly done... a little fit of fitting out and it's ready to be sent off to the Marshal's Paddock for the upcoming Tasman Cup proxy series... 

 

First up... took a while, and the face will have to be re-painted... poor chap looks like he has jaundice.... will use some Vallejo flesh paint on him tomorrow... love the detail I got out of the mold... 

 

001-driver-mail.jpg

 

We're out of the paint shop... all done. I was a bit concerned the white over gold would be a bit bland, but the black numerals and tyres seem to have drawn it all together.

I still have to fit the mirrors and fuel caps plus some detail work on the rear canopy mount and Cooper badge.. but it's pretty much done.

 

002-rear-decals-dash-mail.jpg

 

 

I spent all evening on the steering wheel... I made this one up with styrene rod and sheet. It is drilled with an 0.5 mm drill and there is also a 1.0 mm steering column which I drilled through as well. A 0.5 mm brass rod will hold it all together and that will be glued into the dash.

 

The decals for the gauges come from one of Patto's sheets.. it fits the Cooper dash perfectly. I have to clear coat it with floor polish tomorrow - then the steering wheel can go in... then the driver.. and when all is set in place - finish off with the windscreen... 

 

003-front-decals-inlet-mail.jpg

 

 

So, my entry is nearly there... chassis is finished and runs very sweetly... I believe this one is actually a bit better than Cooper #1.. even if it was a bit rushed.

 

until next....

 

frats,

Rosco

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Great work there Roscoe. Love the paint job. Fantastic job on the suspension too. Presume the instrument panel is a commercial work. I am sure the driver will enjoy keeping a track on instruments as he races around the Tasman Cup circuits. Needs to mind he does not over rev the engine or do you fit a rev limiter.

My Brabham BT3 is still lagging but hoping to finish by end of February.

Regards Chas Le Breton (charlesx)

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Thanks Chas...... still a bit to go yet before I bundle it up and send it off.

I don't have a track - so there is no guarantee this model won't be a dud.... I've done my best, all I can do I'm afraid... 

 

Yes, the instrument dash panel is a decal.... from Patto.... it fitted the Cooper dash I made perfectly. You'd have to believe I made the dash for the decal - but I didn't.

Dash was made out of styrene card formed over a mixing cup and a flat sheet glued in from the rear to hold the shape. A tiny bit of putty went in so that the steering wheel column could get a purchase ... that has to be fitted up yet... only made the steering wheel last night... styrene rod and three cut strips of styrene card for the spokes.

I'll paint some chrome ink on it today, then over-coat that with lacquer clear... the chrome can't be touched or overcoated - or it will lose its lovely mirror finish - pity really... it's a "look at" and not "touch" ink.... but is the closest product I have ever seen that comes close to plated chrome.... 

 

I'm sure you will have the BT-3 up and running... and my little car will enjoy doing laps with yours.... just hope mine holds together and doesn't disgrace itself... 

No idea how it will go, but I've done what I can to make it run well and smoothly... there is zero lash in the drive train and the motor will run down to 1.1 volts without stalling... I believe that indicates a free running mesh... 

 

frats,

Rosco

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