Chrisguyw Posted February 23, 2021 Report Share Posted February 23, 2021 5 hours ago, rosco01 said: I'll paint some chrome ink on it today, then over-coat that with lacquer clear... the chrome can't be touched or overcoated - or it will lose its lovely mirror finish - pity really... it's a "look at" and not "touch" ink.... but is the closest product I have ever seen that comes close to plated chrome.... frats, Rosco Hi Rosco,.......a bit confused here,........you say you will be overcoating the Molotow Chrome with lacquer , then you say it can't be overcoated, or it will lose its chrome finish ?? It can be overcoated with no chrome deterioration,..but, only when coated with an acrylic clear.............Future/Pledge acrylic floor covering is the coating of choice........I have done this several times with no issues. cheers Chris Walker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosco01 Posted February 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2021 Yes Chris... thanks for you reply. I stumbled onto over-coating Molotow with floor polish this morning... I had some left over after coating some of Patto's decals (sensitive ink).. and thought I'd have a go at using it over Molotow.. It may have just dulled the chrome effect, but if anything.. it's not much. I have not yet sprayed Molotow using an airbrush yet.. and recently purchased the 30 ml refill for this purpose... I'll spray the bumpers on the LJ Torana when that is ready to be done. So far, the 2 mm pen is working a treat... flood it on and spread it.. then simply leave it alone... I intend to come back a couple of days later and overcoat with floor polish.. that should seal it out and give it a hard coating for track and finger use.... thanks again for you reply.. I got there just before your post... The clear acrylic I have tried to over-coat with is Tamiya....and there is something in Tamiya acrylic which is a bit too aggressive.. frats, Rosco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldskool62 Posted February 23, 2021 Report Share Posted February 23, 2021 I have done my LJ bumper and other chrome detailing using the molotow paint pen. It was then covered with the automotive acrylc lacquer and presto. The next car I do I am going to give the floor polish a workout but only after I learnt the art of applying it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrisguyw Posted February 25, 2021 Report Share Posted February 25, 2021 On 2/23/2021 at 1:53 AM, rosco01 said: I have not yet sprayed Molotow using an airbrush yet.. and recently purchased the 30 ml refill for this purpose... I'll spray the bumpers on the LJ Torana when that is ready to be done. So far, the 2 mm pen is working a treat... flood it on and spread it.. then simply leave it alone... I intend to come back a couple of days later and overcoat with floor polish.. that should seal it out and give it a hard coating for track and finger use.... frats, Rosco Hi Rosco,..............you will really like the results of airbrushed Molotow chrome !!!..................do not rush to get the Pledge/Future floor polish topcoat on........a couple of days is the bare minimum,..if you can wait 4/5 days ,...all the better. Cheers Chris Walker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosco01 Posted February 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2021 Thanks Chris - yes, looking forward to it. I do ok with the pen, but it can get away from me and end up too thick. The thicker, the more likely it is to suffer from fingers. Mr. Impatience here.... so much to do, so little time to do it in (says he, who has taken over 3 years to finish this model off). Rusho when I decided to enter this year's Tasman Cup proxy... nearly there, windscreen went in today. Just the mirrors and fuel caps now and a few laps on a small Scalextric bit of track to make sure nothing will fall off... So, my question - pledge/future etc floor polish - can you kindly tell me your trick with it. I have tried using a fine brush, and it still seems to dull the molotow even after leaving it a few days... I airbrushed a couple of "guinea pig" models with it, and struggled to find a setting which gave a "sprayed coat" finish... I know not to thin it, but it seemed to spray on in localised puddle areas rather than a lovely gloss coat. It is "self leveling" and I have heard mention here that one member simply "dunks" the model into a bath of it - then allows it to "drip dry" and wipes off the excess as it builds up on the bottom edge of the model... So, what's your trick to coating a model or parts with this silver bullet for Molotow? frats, Rosco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kalbfellp Posted February 25, 2021 Report Share Posted February 25, 2021 (edited) The floor polish content varies from Country to country. Many years ago I tried what was made here and it was crap, so a friend sent me some from the UK and it was better, although IMO no where as goos as Auto acrylic clear. So it is possible what Chris is using is different to what is available here. Edited February 25, 2021 by kalbfellp Quote Phil https://www.hobartminiaturecarclub.com/ Email Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosco01 Posted February 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2021 Yes Phil, although Patto tells me what I have is the best one. In Oz, they have done a revision of this product - the new version no longer carries the "Pascoes" label on the front, but it is included in small print on the rear label... Waiting for Chris to come back with any special tricks he uses to get a thin coating over models without the puddling or pooling that I am getting using an airbrush. frats, Rosco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrisguyw Posted February 26, 2021 Report Share Posted February 26, 2021 22 hours ago, rosco01 said: So, what's your trick to coating a model or parts with this silver bullet for Molotow? frats, Rosco Hi Rosco, To date, all the "Future" clearcoating I have done over Molotow chrome has been done with a brush. I do apply the Chrome fairly thinly, and generally wait a week. I also apply a couple very very thin coats of Future".......zero issues so far. I got my method from the static modeller sites, where several folks suggest this method, and, all seem to claim great results While the multinationals (SC Johnson included), do like to keep formulations consistent globally, as Phil has correctly stated, there certainly can be small regional differences,.....which may affect the results when used over Molotow. Cheers Chris Walker 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosco01 Posted February 26, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2021 Thanks Chris - I will follow your suggestions to the letter... let you know how it goes. I am also having some good results with Humbrol Cleer Cote..... it is an enamel, and doesn't seem to have the aggressive nasties in it. But, I'm only mucking around playing with that stuff and will go with the Future when it comes time to clear coat the Molotow on both Coopers. #1 has been resprayed and refurbed... I'll add a pic of both of them together here before too long... #2 is nearly done.. just the clear coat over Molotow for the chrome now.. and a little bit of a run around on some Scalextric track I'll "throw together a few bits to make a circuit... just to test that it doesn't bind or the wheels don't fall off. Happy now with the white over gold... it looked very bland before the black numerals and tyres were added... driver has come up really well with this one - a mix of a few different castings and a bit of argy-bargy ....... legs disappear after the steering wheel - but, he has legs down to that far anyway... Steering wheel is all styrene rod for the rim, some styrene rod for the steering column and cut-out spokes from some styrene card with a brass rod through all of it to hold it in place.... I believe I'm getting better results with #2 than #1... #3 might be even better... standard British Racing Green with white stripes on that one plus a narrow track.... more of a scale model than anything else.. you simply have to have one of these green/white ones in your fleet, it seems.. probably go with #2 as well... frats, Rosco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosco01 Posted November 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2021 (edited) Ok folk, bump.... been a while on this thread. Cooper #2 returned from this year's Tasman Cup proxy series.. didn't get a podium, but was awarded the John Smedley constructors award... chuffed. Sadly, there is quite a bit of paint damage - not down to running in the series, but issues with Tamiya surfacer/primer. It showed up a lots of lateral cracks across the body - I believed it may have been the Humbrol cleer cote (note spelling), but such was not the case. I started rubbing it down and it wasn't long before I found that the issue was deep... way deep - at primer level. The Tamiya colour coats were fine - but the primer fragmented below them... the cracks making their way to the top.... I have now rubbed back the body to bare resin and am now using SMS paints... so far, three coats of white primer/surfacer and two rub backs... I have airbrushed a mix of three different SMS paint colours to get the gold of Tamiya.. and are pretty happy with it. I ended up using a mix of Inca Gold, Rich Gold, Super Silver and some Yellow to get as close as I could to Tamiya Titan Gold.. I'll use SMS white this time and finally overcoat everything with SMS 2K Ultra Clear.... that stuff is simply amazing - such depth and flow-out. Ok, will have some pix soon... big job, it was easier the first time around without the driver, cockpit and windshield in situ.. As rubbed back to resin... frats, Rosco Edited November 23, 2021 by rosco01 amend 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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