Jump to content
peterp

Start Lights In Race Coordinator

Recommended Posts

I have managed to connect arduino uno board to race coordinator for lap count and timing also the 5 start lights. My question is when the race is paused 1,3 and 5 lights come on and because i am unable to find tri coloured 10mm l.e.d.s they shine red, so can the command be changed to light up 6th amber l.e.d cancelling out the three that light up now. I think it may work because there is a pin available not being used

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For the Bi-Colour LED's, I got mine from Jaycar...

The one you want has 3 legs, not 2.

 

I think it's the first one, but it could be the second...

http://www.jaycar.co...-10mcd/p/ZD0256 or http://www.jaycar.co...-10mcd/p/ZD0255

 

Also, if you check out my diagram, you can see how I modified the outputs using an external circuit to make the bi colour led's match what you see on the screen.

http://www.auslot.co...post__p__230818

Updated my circuit to also fix the power issues between heats...

 

Note: It's a long animation (26 frames), so may take a while to fully load and 'play' properly...

Race%20Coordinator%20Modified%20Start%20Lights%20and%20Relays.gif

Edited by shadow_rusty

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

More 'History' on this from http://www.auslot.com/forums/index.php?/topic/12871-race-coordinator-software/page__view__findpost__p__229644

 

Hi guys,

 

Updated my start lights for Race Coordinator...

I've added a quad gate Nand chip, and 7 diodes... (or about $3)

 

Now the lights display as expected.

The animated gif shows a simulated start sequence followed by a yellow flag.

Race%20Coordinator%20Start%20Lights%20Circuit.gif

 

Inputs to the ciruit are G1, R1, R2, R3, R4, R5 from top to bottom.

 

If you wish to see it in a little more detail, download the Java engine and import the circuit from the text file.

Java Circuit Design Software - http://www.falstad.com/circuit/circuit.zip

Circuit to import - http://users.on.net/~shadow.rusty/Slot%20Cars/Race%20Coordinator%20Start%20Lights%20Circuit.txt

 

Rusty,

 

What problem is that circuit solving?

 

This issue is just because of the way that the start light outputs have been implemented...

It's certainly not major, as we have discussed it previously in this thread...

 

As there currently isn't a 'Go' LED output choice, and I want the start lights to match the screen lights, which isn't exactly possible.

This is how the outputs from RC are working.

'Five' = R5 (1 Red Light)

'Four' = R4, R5 (2 Red Lights)

'Three' = R3, R4, R5 (3 Red Lights)

'Two' = R2, R3, R4, R5 (4 Red Lights)

'One' = G1, R1, R2, R3, R4, R5 (5 Yellow Lights on my bi colour LED's as I have all greens hooked up to G1)

'Go' = G1 (5 Green as I have all green LED's hooked up to G1)

'Yellow' = G1, R1, R3, R5 (Yellow, Green, Yellow, Green, Yellow on my bicolour LED's as I have all green LED's hooked up to G1)

 

The circuit above removes the 'G1' output if 'R1' is on, which changes the lights on 'One' from 5x 'Yellow' to 5x 'Red', and makes all the LED's 'Yellow' during a 'Yellow Flag'.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And the latest update on it from http://www.auslot.com/forums/index.php?/topic/12871-race-coordinator-software/page__view__findpost__p__230818

 

Updated my circuit to also fix the power issues between heats...

 

Note: It's a long animation (26 frames), so may take a while to fully load and 'play' properly...

Race%20Coordinator%20Modified%20Start%20Lights%20and%20Relays.gif

Ran a 'version' of this circuit last night, and it most definately proved itself worthwhile...

 

The start lights worked flawlessly, and matched the screen perfectly.

The relays also worked flawlessly, and caught out a couple of 'false starters'...

Also, at the end of a heat, the race results screen would display and there would be no power to the track.

It was so nice when after 10 seconds, the "Auto Advance Time" would load the next heat, at which point, the power would automatically come back on.

 

 

As we don't have auto start enabled (due to too many missed starts), the "track call" button proved invaluable as it was also used by multiple marshalls to actually start the heats, which helped the night run very smoothly.

 

 

As race director, I only had to select the correct race, the correct drivers and the correct order, and make sure the heat was started.

The racers / heats / power / etc all ran themselves...

 

 

Thanks again to Dave for providing a great base product to work with...

 

 

 

ps. Found an interesting bug with fuel races...

If you jump the start, and have power cut on false start with a penalty time, the car can stop in the track sensors, and you will begin re-fueling once the race starts and the refuel delay expires...

 

So, for our racing we have a 3 sec penalty, and a 1 sec refuel delay.

This resulted in 2 seconds of fueling for 'free' if you false started...

Which was very funny...

 

Interesting "bug". It's not surprising, but then are you really refueling? The only way you would actually refuel is if you start the heat with less than full fuel, which depending on configuration is very possible. I'll put it on the bug list, funny enough I have no clue how I'm going to fix it. I guess I could just restart the refuel delay timer when the false start penalty ends, but it would probably be more correct to not allow the driver to refuel on a false start until the next lap.

 

And apparently I never responded to this... (Even though I thought I did...)

 

But yes, If your car stops in the sensors due to power cut on false start, and your false start penalty is longer than your re-fuel delay, you will start to re-fuel after the re-fuel delay has elapsed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

More info from http://www.auslot.com/forums/index.php?/topic/12871-race-coordinator-software/page__view__findpost__p__237744

 

hi guys

like most im trying to get my start lights working the way I want them to I have seen the schematic @shadow_rusty posted a few pages back and

im keen to know what diodes he used

Hi Michael.

I just used a common 1a one.

theoretically, any normal diode will work.

thanks guys

rusty I worked out what I was doing wrong

 

I had output---resistor----diodes----leds

 

the moment I worked out the resistor needed to be after the diodes all worked as I was wanting it to

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So, are there changes to how the R1, R2, R3, R4, R5 and G1 are set to output?

Or are you referring to the Dim LED issue which is seperate to how the LED's display?

 

I really need to get off my butt and do some testing with the current version...

Once again, sorry Dave...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rusty it just address,s the dim led issue when using multiple relays.

 

I found that I have one track running using a Nano and early version of RC and the first sketch!

This was a small plastic track running off a laptop for the kids, so only gets used on rare occasions.

 


Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

Email

 

 

 

 

 

 

Logos%2016_17.small_zpswkcwjf0q.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am using 1.008 on current version UNO and Mega boards (2 brands) and running 5 countdown and 5 green -- counting down and green on, all working fine.

Only common knock-off I haven't tried yet is Sainsmart, and they're supposed to be a small step better.


Walks upright Unaided  *  Ties Own Shoelaces  *  Can Mispronounce Own Name In Five Languages  *  Mostly Aims Rattle Cans Away from Self
 My Track Oakland Raceway V2     Our Club  HMBRC     

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The start lights issue described in the first post is not the Arduino DIM LED issue.

It's just how Race Coordinator works with LED outputs regardless of the interface.

 

ps. Just tried the latest version, and the DIM LED issue is definitely solved, and nothing has changed from how the LED's light up, so my circuit as posted above still works at making the bi-colour LED's look the same as the start lights on the screen.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Being more of a coder than an electronics whiz, I've managed to get my start/finish gantry with 5 Red/Green Bi-LEDs working with a modification to the sketch only.

 

My setup:

Red post on each of the 5 LEDs connected separately to A0 to A4

Green post on all five LEDs connected to A5

 

Modified sketch and RC configuration to produce the following countdown sequence:

 

Spacebar = All RED LEDs ON

Five... 4 RED LEDs ON

Four... 3 Red LEDs ON

Three... 2 RED LEDs ON

Two... 1 RED LED ON

One... No RED LEDs ON

 

Go/Green Flag... Green on all LEDs are ON (all RED are OFF)

 

Yellow Flag... Green on all LEDs are ON and all RED LEDs are ON = Yellow.

 

Note: I also have one of my Arduino Uno digital pins hooked up to a series of 5 Yellow LEDs dotted around the circuit which flash when under yellow flag. Again, achieved with a modification to the sketch.

 

I need to update the sketch following the recent RC 1.9.0.0 update and will post progress once complete.


Cheers

 

JohnV

Melbourne, Australia

 

www.132MotorSport.com

Slot Car Racing

 

My Track Ringwood North Raceway (previously Donvale Raceway)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Be interested to see that Donvale !


Walks upright Unaided  *  Ties Own Shoelaces  *  Can Mispronounce Own Name In Five Languages  *  Mostly Aims Rattle Cans Away from Self
 My Track Oakland Raceway V2     Our Club  HMBRC     

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, i like it :)

 

Looking at your track and your group, I'm surprised I never came acrosss you guys when I was doing my trips to Melbourne about 6 - 8 years back.

 

I raced variously with guys from V32 and Phoenix groups and a couple of guys from Ged's.

Visited Ged's a couple of times on "lighten his stock" missions,but the track was always buried in "other stock" when I was there so never got to drive there.

Also went to Melbourne Mobile a few times, and a German guy who had had a shop that closed down and was operating from home,

Forget his name and the area.

Big city and I sometimes used a semi-professional tour guide called "Build ya B*(&@%% track Eno". rofl.gifrofl.gif

Or Knoath or Davnic74 would cart me around.so i didn't pay a lot of attention to the locations.

- And Eno cheated as he got one from one of the Scriven boys :)


Walks upright Unaided  *  Ties Own Shoelaces  *  Can Mispronounce Own Name In Five Languages  *  Mostly Aims Rattle Cans Away from Self
 My Track Oakland Raceway V2     Our Club  HMBRC     

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And now, for your viewing pleasure . . . we present

 

Wally of the Week

 

Wally---Gobbling-G_2346215b.jpg

 

Where's Wally?

 

Here's Wally

WALLY.jpg

 

No not the chap in the striped outfit, this wally, the one typing.

 

Suggestion of the week. - When you buy a pile of bi-color LEDs, take a few seconds to at least READ the sales listing, I mean read at least the entire TITLE of the sales listing.

 

Got mine yesterday, made up a lovely 2 x 5 array, plugged it in . . . nothing . . . checked every joint . . perfect, checked the resistor values, just in case, perfect.

Reset the Arduino in software config, changed the pin-outs, nothing......Unplugged, plugged in a couple of short leads i had one with 5 x start lights the other with 5 by green lights . . perfect. Well at least I didn't cook the board.

 

Back to bench, run on bench supply, and gradually wind voltage up from 5 to 12..... ... nothing, not even a dull flicker....

 

Checked continuity, well I haven't fried them going by that. good.

 

Went back to the eBay listing to check the spec........ not much on it, but it was near enough to normal that I should have got a decent glow at least..

 

Ahhhh, the smart ones are starting to catch on.

 

What, - let's read that again, what did I just see in the title . . . . . "common anode" arghhhh &^##^ !(#&!*@(# !^!^&*(^(*~^@(~(@^ ~O@%!##%)~@(*~@&)~(^@)~)@^~@%~%^@ @)) 09028272 7 (ran out of vocabulary).

 

Reversed polarity of clips on my bench supply . . . . there they are Lovely bright red and green . . . . . ..

 

Well at least I know they are pretty robust, I have been trying to stuff 50ma through them all backwards for 15 minutes........

 

Not worth dedicating 10 relays to them..... sigh..... back to the warehouse in the clouds....

 

I'll find somewhere else to use that array.


Walks upright Unaided  *  Ties Own Shoelaces  *  Can Mispronounce Own Name In Five Languages  *  Mostly Aims Rattle Cans Away from Self
 My Track Oakland Raceway V2     Our Club  HMBRC     

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use either the 5mm (http://www.jaycar.co...-80mcd/p/ZD0252) or the 10mm (http://www.jaycar.co...-10mcd/p/ZD0256) 3-leg bi-colour LED's from Jaycar.

Middle pin goes to ground, and other 2 to their respective output pins.

 

Also, If you use the "Invert LED's" option in Arduino setup in Race Coordinator, you should theoretically be able to use common posative bi-colour LED's.

Middle pin should go to +5v, and the other 2 to their respective output pins.

 

 

What you can't use are the 2 pin bi-colour LED's.

They require a reversal of the pinout to show the other colour.

Edited by shadow_rusty

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All good Michael - was in Jaycar today and had a look at the 2 and 3 pin models, bloke demonstrated the 2 pin requirement to reverse the pins to get the red rather than green - decided that the 3 pin was the better choice.

 

DId I read the diagram correctly, I need 150ohm resistors before and after the LED's?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All good Michael - was in Jaycar today and had a look at the 2 and 3 pin models, bloke demonstrated the 2 pin requirement to reverse the pins to get the red rather than green - decided that the 3 pin was the better choice.

 

DId I read the diagram correctly, I need 150ohm resistors before and after the LED's?

Yes, you will need a 150ohm resistor on both the red leg, and the green leg.

 

If you are connecting all the greens to a single output (like I do), you will also need a transistor as the arduino cannot supply enough current to drive 5x led's from a single output.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Also, If you use the "Invert LED's" option in Arduino setup in Race Coordinator, you should theoretically be able to use common posative bi-colour LED's.

Middle pin should go to +5v, and the other 2 to their respective output pins.

 

 

Doesn't invert LEDs merely change their "State" ie on vs. off, off vs. on. It can't change the physical hardware of the board which has many positive pin-outs, but just 3 negative grounds.


Walks upright Unaided  *  Ties Own Shoelaces  *  Can Mispronounce Own Name In Five Languages  *  Mostly Aims Rattle Cans Away from Self
 My Track Oakland Raceway V2     Our Club  HMBRC     

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

True, but and "on" output relative to posative is actually "off".

 

 

[Edit]

Alternatively, you can use an invertor between each output and the 'wrong' LED's.

But you may find that the invertor chip can't drive an LED directly.

 

[Edit 2]

Or, you can definately use a transistor between each output and the 'wrong' LED's...

Which if you use the same config as me would be 6x transistors...

Edited by shadow_rusty

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...