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Springbok Racer

Preparing And Painting Your V8

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Very nice car Steve...

 

Could you, Glen and Jimmie give the rest of us some tips on painting these bodies. Perhaps a few pointers on the positioning of the decals will also be helpful - what goes inside, what outside. How well do the window surrounds, grilles, head lights and tail lights fit. Do we need to make any changes to these bits. I also hear that with some liveries are better to order without the back ground colours and that certain car decals come with the grilles and lights included, whereas others have them on seperate sheets (which then leave you with a bunch of unwanted decals)?

 

Thanks for your advice.

 

Jan

Edited by Springbok Racer

'The older I get the faster I was.'

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Jan, there's some details about body prep on the webpage. i was just reading it 5 minutes ago :)

 

Thanks Ian, I am aware of those. Was hoping the fundi's could provide further info.

 

Cheers,

 

Jan


'The older I get the faster I was.'

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G'day Jan

Cams guide on slotworx web page is really good . Pattos peel and stick reverse and yes back ground colour deleted is the method I use. The more complex livery you pick the bigger the challenge . Pattos 1/24 scale is also a challenge to make them fit at times. When the back ground colour is deleted ,when you paint inside the end result is a more uniform end result. Cams window masks fit really well,just follow his how to guide. Yes head lights,grills and tail lights are not on all of Pattos decal sheets. Look closely when you order,especially retro livery 's. Hope this a help . Raced last night they are so much fun . Cheers Glenn

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To v8 lovers

 

I forgot to say that I use water base paint . I was very surprised when Cam showed me this method as I have only ever sprayed with Tamiya before. I'm not sure how Pattos peel and stick would go as the spray paint may react ? The water base paint I use is called Josonja's. It is acrylic artist paint . Most art stores carry it ,it is just hand painted in the body. You need to do two or three coats and you don't see any brush strokes . You can also air brush the paint if you want. It is also very tuff and handles racing knocks very well . As I said I didn't think it would work with this paint but every car shown on this page by me is done that way.

 

Hope this helps . More v8 out there more fun.

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Mine arrived this week so I'm keen to get stuck into the build .

 

Thanks for the details regarding painting , was just about to ask what paints were used .

 

Love your work Pagey , can the roll cages your using be purchased anywhere or are they home made ?

 

Cheers

Kev


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Thanks for the kind words Kev

 

The roll cage is all hand made , along with all other items in the interior . Cage is made from strip styrene , most model shops have it in many sizes and shapes. Gear stick,sews pin, front rear bar adjustments ,normal pins . Drink bottle,fire extinguisher all made from styrene strip. You are limited by what you can think up next? I love detail, I. Know it doesn't make them go any faster but it's fun to do and look at. Have fun building them, for me that's half the fun. The kit and effort that Cam has gone to for us all to enjoy is unreal.

 

Cheers Glenn

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I concur with Glenn's posts and use the same paint. Cut the decals as close to the print as you dare. I seal around the decals with Matisse Polymer Gloss Varnish before painting to stop any potential paint bleed under the edges. I dilute the paint with a little water and then add in some of the Matisse Varnish to help strengthen the paint.

 

Putting the peel and sticks on the inside isn't easy, take your time and think about cutting the larger decals into manageable chunks focusing on logical places to cut. When you take the decal off the backing paper I found it easier to position the decal by putting it on two lengths of scrap backing paper, gloss side to sticky side of decal. Narrow longer pieces that I held north south to the body worked well. This stopped the whole decal from attaching itself before you are ready. Once you are happy you can progressively push the decal down and remove the scrap backing paper as you go. Watch out for air bubbles. Good luck.

 

There is nothing stopping you from using the standard peel and sticks on the outside and just paint the inside. Potentially an easier fix but I reckon you would still have some problems getting the decals to fit the body shape exactly and it won't look as good.

Edited by steve38

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Glen put me on to the Matise Polymer Gloss Varnish & it works a treat on Cams window surrounds that don't seem to stick as good as Patto's Peal & stick decals.The air brush tended to lift the surround & bleed underneath,no problems now,Thanks Glennie.I brushed the Matise on & initially it looks milky,I left it over night to dry & was super clear in the morning ready for paint,I'm going to use it on all decals in the future just for insurance,luv that stuff :D :D


To finsh first,first you gotta finish

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Jimmy, that trick with the varnish is courtesy of Cam, via me to Glenn and now to you. Caring and sharing lot aren't we lol.

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Thanks guys, it always save everyone a lot of messing around when there is a reference like this provided by those that know.

 

Cheers,

 

Jan

 


'The older I get the faster I was.'

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Glen put me on to the Matise Polymer Gloss Varnish & it works a treat on Cams window surrounds that don't seem to stick as good as Patto's Peal & stick decals.The air brush tended to lift the surround & bleed underneath,no problems now,Thanks Glennie.I brushed the Matise on & initially it looks milky,I left it over night to dry & was super clear in the morning ready for paint,I'm going to use it on all decals in the future just for insurance,luv that stuff :D :D

 

Some good tips from great car builders.

 

I recommend doing a sample with the brushed clear varnish on scrap lexan and painting over the top to ensure the brush strokes disappear. I have tried 3 different silver paints and they all highlight the clear brush strokes making the car look horrible.

So far this is only colour it happened with...quite odd. If you do a test piece you can't go wrong.

 

Lately I have been washing the bodies with morning fresh and water. Wait for it to dry and use powder free latex/nitrile disposable gloves when handling the inside of the body and applying peel & stick decals + the window surrounds.

The bond is much better when the inside of the body is free form the natural oils in your hands.

 

Thanks for the input.

 

- Cam

Edited by Camber

Hoo Roo

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Thanks everyone, all a big help!

 

Pagey, it's 2 words, as Jo Sonja. :)

I just googled it, looks like Bunnings might have it.

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Sorry if spelling wrong, can't spell . Here's a photo of both products I use .

 

23050183-101C-4F49-8B53-909D03EA9421_zpsw2yolbs3.jpg

 

Cheers Pagey

  • Upvote 1

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No probs with the spelling, Google worked out that it was two words, not me. :)

 

swmbo does scrapbooking, she's just been informed she needs a new range of paints. ;)

 

 

Yep, Bunnings only has a sampler pack, not the full range.

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Just a quick note. The Jo Sonja paints are also available at Spotlight and Lincraft and similar craft type outlets. They last really well and go quite a long way. If you can't get the Matisse brand varnish use the Jo Sonja version, they are about the same formula.


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

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Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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Thanks for the kind words Kev

 

The roll cage is all hand made , along with all other items in the interior . Cage is made from strip styrene , most model shops have it in many sizes and shapes. Gear stick,sews pin, front rear bar adjustments ,normal pins . Drink bottle,fire extinguisher all made from styrene strip. You are limited by what you can think up next? I love detail, I. Know it doesn't make them go any faster but it's fun to do and look at. Have fun building them, for me that's half the fun. The kit and effort that Cam has gone to for us all to enjoy is unreal.

 

Cheers Glenn

 

 

Thanks for the tips regarding the roll cage build , and yes 'The devil is in the detail' Glenn :)

 

Thanks also to all those who have shared ideas on painting and products to use for painting , very helpful .

 

Cheers

Kev

Edited by willowone

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Browse through my albums:https://www.facebook...kevwilsondesign

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Just put the clear varnish on, how long are people waiting before applying colors on top?

 

Jimmyslots 1950, what is the name of the yellow you used on the nissan hornet, there's too many to choose from.

Edited by espsix

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Just put the clear varnish on, how long are people waiting before applying colors on top?

 

Jimmyslots 1950, what is the name of the yellow you used on the nissan hornet, there's too many to choose from.

I let the Matisse dry over night but the bottle should have drying & recoat times.Pagey lent me some of the Matisse so I don't have the bottle to confirm.The Yellow I used is called Yellow light & is a series 1 Jo Sonja.Just a little tip,there are a lot of other Water based paints out there but the cheaper ones I've found aren't as good as Jo's,Faskolor is also very good.Cheers Jimmy :D

To finsh first,first you gotta finish

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