Wobble 106 Report post Posted March 8, 2015 I'm considering building a PCB chassis for my Mercury Monterey. I intend to strip the copper from it. Because of the size of it I'm considering a NC5 sidewinder. Just wondering if someone has gone down this path and successfully built this type of chassis although it mightn't be as big. Any advice regarding cutting, gluing etc would be appreciated. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kalbfellp 69 Report post Posted March 8, 2015 This one is not PCB but Carbon fibre. You could use an HRS front bracket for axle and guide pivot for a simple build. One of the young guys in our club built a carbon chassis years ago and just used super glue to hold pillar blocks set in the chassis. Quote Phil Hobart Miniature Car Club Tassie Resins Email Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mobbzee 28 Report post Posted March 8, 2015 i have one much the same as you Phil...i just used plafit bits Quote http://www.auslot.com/forums/index.php?/topic/12014-mt-panorama-track/ ...My Track Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wobble 106 Report post Posted March 8, 2015 (edited) Bolt on bits eh? Thanks guys, I didn't see that coming. Here's me thinking about fabricating parts. Mobbzee, I take it the only thing holding your motor in place are the screws. Edited March 8, 2015 by Wobble Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paulthetexan 11 Report post Posted March 8, 2015 (edited) Here is a couple from a local legend in Brisvegas http://slotcarouthou....php?f=16&t=143 http://slotcarouthou....php?f=16&t=140 And a link to slotcarouthouse with about 50 odd builds to look thru http://slotcarouthou...9b3fa8f023718dc Hope this helps Edited March 8, 2015 by paulthetexan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rosco01 62 Report post Posted March 8, 2015 Bram, the resin strength in PCB is almost extreme - try cutting the blasted stuff. You can get un-coppered PCB if you search for it - not widely stocked - but it's out there. Failing that, an overnight dunk in an acid bath will eat the copper away... if you want to make use of some of the copper for electrical purposes when you etch in acid - simply use a felt-tipped pen... then you can do a simple electrical track for LED lights etc... it's probably not good enough (unless you use the full width of the board) for any moderate power - and I probably would not recommend it for traction power... even the FF050's... maybe someone in here has... frats, Rosco Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
munter 153 Report post Posted March 8, 2015 PCB is like resin, the dust is toxic. I have only used it once with the copper side up and then soldered brass front and rear brackets to it. Solder quickly and solder once. Strangely it was for one of those Pontiac GTO bodies Quote John Warren Slotcars are my preferred reality Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mobbzee 28 Report post Posted March 9, 2015 Bolt on bits eh? Thanks guys, I didn't see that coming. Here's me thinking about fabricating parts. Mobbzee, I take it the only thing holding your motor in place are the screws. Bolt on bits eh? Thanks guys, I didn't see that coming. Here's me thinking about fabricating parts. Mobbzee, I take it the only thing holding your motor in place are the screws. yes at the moment, but i do have the other bit that holds the engine in on other end just havent put it on yet Quote http://www.auslot.com/forums/index.php?/topic/12014-mt-panorama-track/ ...My Track Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
