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rosco01

Flyslot Lola T70

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Hi Ross,

 

what I think Phil is saying here is that the motor shaft does not need to go far back into the slot in the crown if at all. Being as the axle and wheels and crown are all adjustable, they can be 'locked' in place without relying on the motor shaft/crown slot relationship. Basically 'locking' in place as in a sidewinder set up where axle spacers determine the location of the axle rather than a shaft/slot, negating the need to move the motor rearward. Also, his idea of locating the front axle without the use of bushes is 'common practice' and it's OK to have up to about 1/2mm 'slop' in the front axle, eg. a standard Slot.It front axle using grub screws top and bottom for axle location.

 

What a massive effort though, I'm sure that if you had been a mountaineer, Mount Everest would have been on your 'done' list. I couldn't have gone this far and didn't. There are only 2 good things that I can see in these chassis, well 5 really, and that is the 4 body mount holes, they line up with the body post's, and the guide mount, it will accept a Ninco prorace guide. Just thought of another. The really good thing about these chassis is that everyone will catch on how really 'bad' they are and nobody will buy their T70's and they will get so cheap that anyone can buy them.

 

Here's hoping you have no further issues with it and it runs well at your club. Now take a break and have some time out for a few days to recuperate

Edited by Wobble

bram1_zpsfkhrhndv.jpg

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Wow you certainly had a bum one there Rosco hope all the work is worth it on the track, , seems I was lucky having a straight chassis as the basis to work with , I am very pleased with my one now it has been modded but when I total up the costs , I could have bought a NSR GT40 easily , but I do like the Lola T70 .

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Bram, yes - thank you for expanding on Phil's suggestion. I do appreciate that using spacers to keep the rear axle in constant communication with the crown/pinion mesh is the best engineering option - as we use on in line motors where the crown does not have a guide groove.

 

I guess on the outset, that I simply didn't realise how much work was involved in dropping that motor down.... I had concerns on lifting the rear axle in its chassis holes or moving them forward as it would have compromised the body rear wheel arches - and I was hellbent on not touching the body... so, I guess I've achieved what I set out to.

 

The motor is a long way down - it runs horizontal to the bottom of the crown... I don't know if this is going to create any downforce yet - I don't run with magnets... but this will probably be as close as I'll get without them.

 

The chassis assembly is probably as good, if not better than some of my GT40's.... I have put a lot of work into this one - call it pig-headedness if you like - but old Rosco has this "thing" about investment and probably part of that drives the stubborn-ness.....

 

I will focus on a guide when I get back - for all intents and purposes, if I'd simply left this one on the metal plate for the next week or more - and simply soldered on two leads to Cooper #2 - I could have enjoyed a few laps on one of the club's layouts last night in another "realm".

 

Speaking of which, I took three of my GT40's for a burn around the track.... I now fully appreciate that you can simply "over-power" a model... that white kit monster is frightening - (29K5 motor, 9 tooth pinion, 36 tooth spur and suspension) - it is just so twitchy with the controller that it is probably more like the real thing in competition tune...

 

The second one down (25k motor, 10 tooth pinion and 34 tooth spur and suspension) is an easier and faster (lap times) car to run.... it "leapt" off the track a few times where a straight section had a slight crest... but it was certainly more "controllable" and seemed to find the guide slot more consistently than the monster mentioned above...

 

The absolute stock motor/gearing third one, with only suspension and the spherical front axle bushes - was the easiest of them all to drive.... silky smooth with quite a bit of margin to feather the controller..... the other two were fun, the white kit version simply frightening at times. It was like hitting the power band of a two stroke motor... you simply didn't know when it was going to "unleash"....

 

I will keep the little 18k white end-bell motor in this T70 - I can lift it up to the orange-bell if it lacks legs... but I believe I've learned my lesson in over-powering models...

 

None of this showed up on my Scalextric layouts.... I simply had constructed too many long straights without any grade undulations... last night was an eye opener and nerve tester with two of the above models.

 

I'm very confident now that this T70 will be a very pleasant model to drive - the body looks great too....

 

Thanks to all who have commented... I hope anyone finding this post later on gets to read its entirety before committing to purchasing one of the exact same models.... if so, get the Slot-It chassis with an orange endbell.... and chuckle at my expense...

 

frats,

Rosco

Edited by rosco01

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Ross and Peter Gunn, here's hoping that one day in the not too far distant future, Slot.It will have one of these on their drawing boards.

Could save a lot of people this sort of head ache. And I hear what you're saying about overpowering cars but GT40's are still the bees knees.

Edited by Wobble

bram1_zpsfkhrhndv.jpg

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Has anyone tried the Ghost Trax Chassis for these T70's???

http://www.ghost-trax.com/index.php/en/component/hikashop/product/138-0-0000000

gt_evochassis-lola_bd.jpg

 

 

 

ps. Thanks heaps for sharing Rosco, as my mate has a FlySlot T70 that has just never felt right, now I know where to start with it.

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That chassis looks an awful lot better than what I am now very "familiar" with, SR.... but, no - I can't use it... as Phil states, in my club - certain things like configuration are not negotiable... same gearing also... plus wheel and tyre size.

Motor has to be in the original ballpark, bushes can be replaced/fitted, body can be floated - but basically, it has to resemble the original presentation of the model...as supplied.

 

Of course - this is a "social" class - it is not subject to the severe restrictions and guidelines of more "serious" scrutiny... but, some things are mandatory.

 

SR - if your friend's FS - T70 is identical to mine, and he has to comply - then I would thoroughly recommend ditching the puny motor, put some decent wheels and axles on it and most importantly - do something about aligning the pinion and crown.

 

Van is loaded, tug is full of diesel..... tick, tick, tick - and I'm still on yesterday's list of "to do's"... or I will be in the "do-do's".... be back in just over a week... starting to sound like Nellie Melba... more goodbyes coming, perhaps - or Mrs. Rosco will pull out the dongle and force my hand......

 

frats,

Rosco

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Rosco, you seem to want to apply the precision and skill a good laser cut spring steel or brass wire chassis requires to the plastic toys that we all play with. An epic adventure if you like.

Unfortunately for most of us, altering the motor mount up or down, back or forward is not legal, so is a step we can't take. The bushing method addresses this, as does an offset crown gear, so there are other ways to achieve what you have done.

I find that while a flat & straight chassis makes a difference, on most non commercial tracks, such a strict level of precision doesn't make enough of a difference in performance.

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Thanks Difinity,

yes - I can appreciate that within certain classes, altering motor mounts are taboo... but, this little model will rub shoulders only in a social class... it does have rules - but did not hear one word of rebuke from club members the other night - about it running in social class... so, I hope I'm good to go with it... if not - well - too hard basket to even consider next step...

 

frats,

Rosco

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Sounds good.

I'm going the other way - setting up to build 4 brass & wire chassis 1/32 to fit under some resin Aussie Gp.C tourers.

Jack Rabbit motors, inline, about 2:8 ratio, Paul gage urethanes and a little weight.

Trying to fit them in around everything else...

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Sounds good.

I'm going the other way - setting up to build 4 brass & wire chassis 1/32 to fit under some resin Aussie Gp.C tourers.

Jack Rabbit motors, inline, about 2:8 ratio, Paul gage urethanes and a little weight.

Trying to fit them in around everything else...

 

Thats the way buddy make it go like the clappers

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Nuh. These are house cars - designed for people who don't race slots. May still need to get some DPR's for my friends kids though...

My track is only 13m too...

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Ok folk,

after an absence for a few weeks - and a temporary return to life outside of slot cars - I'm back on deck and about to finish off the Lola.

It is almost at the running stage - just the tyres/wheel inserts, guide and wiring to complete.

I'm hoping to get a run on a club track during the week - I am not expecting anything beyond drive-able... but compared to the poor state this little thing was in when I received it - I won't be disappointed if it just trips around the track without any indiscressions.....

 

Report as work continues.

 

frats,

Rosco

Edited by rosco01

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Ok folk - no pix yet... ISP is still running at grass growing speed.....

Lola is now "finished" - and, even if I do say so myself - in a darned much better shape than what it was when removed from the box.

 

Original wheels were ground and cut down to fit inside the Slot-It's and tyres have been glued and trued...

 

I used one of the upmarket Slot-It guides for this model - I bought four of them for the Coopers and BT-3's - but was persuaded not to fit them for proxy racing.

These guides have a chamber slot for a return run of braid - and an M2 grub secures both the braid and lead to the guide.

 

I had to re-set the height of the guide - but have it so that the braid sits on the same plane as the front tyres with full depth of the blade into the slot.

 

The front wheels run beautifully in the spherical bushes - and the rears in the MB slot bronze bushes likewise - along with the brass pinion and nylon/brass crown.

 

The little Slot-It white end bell motor putters along lovely - I ran it for quite a few hours on about 2.5v to settle everything in... it will tick over consistently at 0.68v.... even sounds like a V8 idling at those slow rpms.....

 

I used Slot-It silicone wire for the leads... bought 3 metres of it... should last a little while, I hope....

 

Body is a floating fit on the chassis.

 

One thing I did pick up and will now use for all M2 grubs - is the recommended Dick Smith assortment of bits with a common handle and shaft... the 0.9mm bit shows absolutely no signs of being used - even when tightening down the grubs onto the axles... much, much better than that silly little allen key provided by Slot-It.... I don't know how many of those I have rounded off the edges or had them stick mid-way in the grub trying to remove them..... grrrrrrr

 

As for mounting the model in its box - I cut some icy-pole sticks to length and stuck them onto the box base ... to keep the tyres up off the surface....by about 1-1.5 mm.

 

I do this because some of my older Scalextric cars had developed flat spots on the tyres if left for months when wound down by the mounting screw...

I don't know if urethane's suffer from "flat spots" if the model is left standing of them for long periods... but I decided to apply the icy-pole trick to all these new models as well.... just a dab of cyano fixes them to the base - and to each other if more height is needed.

Make sure you support the chassis at equal points to prevent distortion..

 

So, waiting for an opportunity to set this little delight off on its lifetime of slotting now....

 

This little sweetie will not qualify for any serious class of racing - just the social class... because of all the mods performed... but, if ever I were to venture into another FlySlot model - and had to take the chassis with it - I'd probably make up a multi-wire and brass chassis of my own design..... it probably would have been quicker - and achieved better performing model....

 

I'll add final pix when my data allowance is renewed in about another 10 days...

 

frats,

Rosco

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