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rosco01

Flyslot Lola T70

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I have probably been spoiled by the great run of Slot-It cars I have recently amassed...... plus the ongoing learning experience of building some scratch built chassis.....

 

I have recently joined a local slot group and was warmly welcomed in my introduction to the club.

I must state, I love these routed tracks!

 

A loan car and controller found me getting much better lap times than I believed I was capable of.

 

So much so, that I wanted the very car I was using.... a "Fly" Lola T70. I was told they were no longer available in the shops - but some came up from time to time on ebay....

 

Impulsively, I set about procuring one when I got home... and found just one.. "mint condition, never used" so - bought it.

 

I sent messages to my new club members who replied that I had not, fact - bought a Fly - but a FlySlot.... all news to me - I believed the word "Fly" was akin to Scaley... as an abbreviation.

I was told that the FlySlot version was not in the same ball park as the great little car I had used....

 

I left an open mind, not wanting to dislike the poor little thing before casting judgement.

The car arrived and when I took it out of the box - the rear was jammed up.... I didn't want to look into it any further at that stage - having far too much on my workbench.. so, just left it... until last night.

 

The body and paintwork are simply brilliant.... and the in-line motor is very securely held in the chassis - that's as far as my positive comments go.... full stop!

 

The rear axle had been forced up out of the chassis - which was obviously the reason for the jammed gears.

The pinion was marked but the crown appeared undamaged.

 

The rear wheels were completely out of true - which seemed more related to how they were pushed on than anything else, so I removed them.

 

They were pressed on over axle splines. These splines were not complete... some of them ending only half way along.

 

I filed them out to the end of the axle using a triangle file and found the wheels to fit much better.

 

When I placed the assembly on the Tyre Razor - I found the axle bent... and was almost shocked to find how easily the soft metal was.... this obviously happened when "someone" tried to force the bushes into the chassis with it out of alignment.

I did my best over about half an hour - and came out with something very close to true.

 

With the wheels now running almost squarely to the axle, I turned them down which resulted in a reasonable result..

I don't believe I took very much - mainly just scraping off the silver paint and a touch here and there into the black plastic to get a solid and smooth finish.... I would expect that I took less than 1 mm in the process.

 

I fitted the tyres and was about to true them to the now much better wheels - but they are now a very loose fit.. so, we are looking for some MJK's to replace them. I'm not sure what the compound is - it certainly isn't urethane... most likely a soft rubber...

I am allowed to fit MJK tyres and keep within the rules for the class.

 

The crown was way off centre - I measured the distances from the wheel-arches to crown centre slot and forced it along the spline.

 

I then fitted the assembly back into the chassis, lubed up the plastic bearings and connected very low power to the motor.

 

To say I was disappointed with the noise and out of true the crown and pinion ran is probably an understatement.

 

I set about cleaning up the crown and moved the pinion to centre the mesh.

 

Again, powering up did not make an awful lot of difference to the noise... but some toothpaste mixed with brasso eventually quietened down the "din" to some extent.

 

I found that there were remnants of moulding "pips" still in the crown - then removed them... that made a bit of a difference - but now, there seemed to be more noise coming from the motor than the gear mesh..... I don't know what motor FlySlot use, but it has a black end bell on the pinion end of the shaft... I am guessing perhaps that it's probably an 18k motor... no idea...

 

After about a 20 minute run on low to mid power - the motor certainly complained less.... and I was able to get a consistent slow speed at around half a volt.. without stalling on any high points...

 

I'd love to replace the entire rear assembly with a hardened steel axle, alloy hubs and a Slot-It crown - plus an orange bell Slot-It motor...... the same as all my other Slot-It cars came with - but I'm not allowed, according to club rules for the class...

 

So, guess I had just better buck up and do the best with this great looking little model - it would be such a much better model with a decent side-winder chassis and some top end running gear......

 

I will employ the chassis straightening technique I used on all my Slot-It cars..... the hot water/metal plate/magnet method.

I'd love to fit spherical bearings to the front axle... will have to chase that up with the club...

The very sloppy fit of the front axle assembly brings back memories of the early Scalextric "flop and drop" setup - this one even has very poor side play...... another session up at the front end might rectify much of this.... last night's effort (ending at nearly 02:00) was just to get the back end "happy"......

 

For my first FlySlot model - I must say that in my opinion, I believe they have let themselves down terribly .. perhaps the wonderful body emanated from the former and now defunct "Fly" era.... this chassis, "Made in Spain" - is an unworthy attempt to "ride the sheep's back" using a formerly great reputation...

 

As for pricing comparison - unless you really want the great body that this model comes with, I certainly wouldn't recommend going beyond Slot-It's great value to get to FlySlot..... my opinion, folk.... perhaps this was a "dodgy" model.... I don't know - but I'm very hesitant to chase up another FlySlot if a Slot-It can be found to fill my requirements...

 

Blunt, folk - but honest... the body is a beauty to behold, but..........

 

frats,

Rosco

Edited by rosco01

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Fly was a Spanish company which went broke 5 years back.

They are/were famous for - some good looking models and bodies, and for hit and miss quality control over a platform of very basic plastic wheel and gear mechanics - like Scaley, but without the level of QC.

 

After all the fuss died down, and the creditors gave up, the owner formed a new company calling it FlySlot.

Using all the original tooling he has begun building up catalogue over the past 3 years or so.

 

The original Fly Lola T70 was a sidewinder, and easier to set up than the inline one you have.

The inline is a sort of universal chassis he has come up with, but I don't think it has the tuning potential of the older version - from the old company.


Walks upright Unaided  *  Ties Own Shoelaces  *  Can Mispronounce Own Name In Five Languages  *  Mostly Aims Rattle Cans Away from Self
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Fly has been through a few different financial cycles, like Mark says. In it's original form Fly are credited very much with starting the detail revolution.

 

One thing that I'm curious about is that I keep hearing SRC (Slot Racing Company) linked in the same breath as Fly. Is there a relationship between the two companies? Or is it that SRC, like Fly, produce beautiful (and a little pricy) cars that require some serious work to get them to run?


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

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Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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SRC are linked to Fly because they now employ Somevof the original Fly staff.

SRC them selves have been restructured and now doing better. There products are more like the original Fly cars.

Ross welcome to the world if RTR, what you have found is about typical of many RTR cars. Slot It cars are the best value cars around IMO, and I think most will agree. When they came on the market they were way in front of most other RTR cars.


Phil

 

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Ross,

 

like you, I also bought a Flyslot T70 because I couldn't get the real McCoy. They have what they call their Alpha chassis. Like you say, "rubbish". Before long my cars chassis ended up in the bin and was replaced by a Scalextric Mitsi WRC sidewinder chassis (same wheelbase). Fortunately this didn't take too much work and was in fact quicker to fit than the time I spent trying to get the original chassis to work. There was no way the original could ever be a good runner as the motor shaft and axle were on two different planes. Take a close look at yours. The Flyslot Ferrari 512 Coda Lunga is a totally different kettle of fish and although still inline has a lot more potential because stuff 'lines up' in it. I guess if you persevere with yours you will be able to get reasonable performance out of it. The black end bell motor is rated as 18k but like most motors in slot cars pull higher revs. However, where the original Fly motors were identical to Scaley motors these are not and are more akin to Revell Monogram motors in that they have plenty of wick and very poor brakes. The original sidewinder chassis can be found on the internet but are of no use as the original pod is impossible to find.

 

NSR make a FLY classic tyre that fits these hubs, Supergrips or Ultragrips.

 

Good luck with it

Edited by Wobble

bram1_zpsfkhrhndv.jpg

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MJK do make a Fly Classic replacement tyre though I can't think of the number. Though it sounds as if the trying required on the wheel means the dimensions are no longer suitable for this size.

 

If you have a set of vernier calipers you can run them over you wheel and look up an MJK which will be a good fit to the new wheel size in Shadow_Rusty's handy dandy MJK tyre selector. http://www.auslot.com/forums/index.php?/topic/16119-mjk-tyre-selector/


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

_AM_sig_zps00cdfd1a.jpg

 

Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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Phil Smith has a few Fly Lola T70 for reasonable prices - 35-55 pounds + post

 

or use as a guide - when searching on eBay - were I have seen them as low as $50 + post for a Fly one not Fly slot....

 

DM

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From what I understand, one of the owners of SRC is the original founder of Fly, and the father of the guy who was running it for several years before they went bust.

 

I did know their names, but I forget.


Walks upright Unaided  *  Ties Own Shoelaces  *  Can Mispronounce Own Name In Five Languages  *  Mostly Aims Rattle Cans Away from Self
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Have 2 Fly Lola T70 's one side winder , one inline and I have completely replaced everything on the inline , but still run the sidewinder on original wheels and have fitted MJK 4203 the classis fly replacements and that alone makes a hell of a difference

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Thank you to all who trawled through one of my (again) long posts.

 

I'm not done yet - I have now taken to this little car and will persevere with it..... or bust!

 

One of the members of my group emailed me back today, encouraging me to continue the work.

Of quite some relief - I am allowed to replace the axle, bushes, crown, wheels, tyres and indeed motor - but it must stay as an in-line model (so, you ask - why did I purchase the car?).

 

My intentions are now well known - and orders will be placed. Yes, the MJK 4203's are the tyres which I will purchase - but I can't for the life of me find the Slot-It alloy wheels to match.... MJK (and the calculator Shadow_Rusty put together for us) has made finding the tyre easy... it's the wheels I need confirmation on.

 

A Slot-it in line rear end will go a long way to making this model much, much better... as you will read as I add to this, yet another one of "rosco's" ongoing novels...

 

I did a lot of work to get my fleet of Slot-It GT40's to a very level and developed stage - I have every intention of again getting the very best out of this model....

 

Thank you to all who have replied - I will post from time to time as this develops... but, I again re-iterate - the chassis and gear thrown in with the great body as a model are simply rubbish....

 

I do appreciate the new owner at Flyslot it doing his utmost to stay in business... and can also appreciate that being able to furnish a generic chassis to perhaps fit (almost) a range of great bodies is economically sane - it's the standard of that chassis which will most likely bring the venture to cessation.. and, I do very much hope this person reads my comments....

 

As Phil has stated, Slot-It have my vote for value.... they might have just a little bit more work to do on body detail with some models - but their consistent and economical value-for-money running gear is simply superb... not absolutely perfect - but compared to the competition.... superb.... thank you Slot-It.

 

Oh, and before I again bore the living daylights out of everyone with reams and reams of text... some pix - not great... and no, Ember - as you can clearly see - I haven't found that set of close up filters yet.....

 

LolaT70body001_zps4dc4da36.jpg

 

LolaT70body003_zps7ad67153.jpg

 

LolaT70body002_zpsd3f93754.jpg

 

frats,

Rosco

Edited by rosco01

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Slot.it sell the HRS chassis for around $50 retail -I cannot for the life of me work out why companies like Flyslot - don't go partner with slot.it or MSC or Scaleauto and use the universal chassis they sell to put under any car - surely the save in R&D and tooling on making a chassis that fits the body would be worth it.

I think they have partnered with Avant Slot but haven't seen any evidence yet other than a Flyslot 512BB with a faster motor in it. Which intrigues me - how will a faster motor make an ordinary car run any better???

 

If they sold their cars with a slot.it HRS Chassis I would pay a bit more for it because I would know I was getting a quality body and quality running gear.

 

If you look at the likes of the 3 chassis I mentioned I really think this should be the future for slot makers - design and build the body and put a universal chassis under it - heck Flyslot make your own universal chassis just make it as good as what is on the market now.

 

sorry for the soapbox in your thread Rosco - I also bought the yellow Flyslot Lola and was disappointed it wasn't as good as my original Lolas - luckily I found a yellow #1 original Fly Lola :)

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DM, out of curiousity, are the body posts still inter-changeable between the Fly and Flyslot Lola - ie, if you found an original T70 chassis..... would you put the FlySlot body over it.


Walks upright Unaided  *  Ties Own Shoelaces  *  Can Mispronounce Own Name In Five Languages  *  Mostly Aims Rattle Cans Away from Self
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DM - I am still waiting for that chassis on back-order.... but for another model.

It is great value for money - it is RTR and is adjustable to suit most models of this size....

I will opt to fit Slot-It gear into the Flyslot chassis.... might be a bit of work with some of it... but I'm very confident the end result will enjoy much success.

Sadly, I can't fit a side-winder chassis to this model - for club rules.... but, with the HRS option to fit an in-line pod - never know... might end up going down that track if this turns out a flop and I just want to run the model at home or during "social" events....

 

Don't fear of any soap-boxing in my threads, DM - I have been known to swamp other threads with similar opine..

 

frats,

Rosco

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Mark

 

The Fly / Flyslot Lola chassis seems to have the same body mount points - I didn't swap the bodies over but the screws are in the same place 2 at the front and 2 in front of the rear wheels.

 

Kinda makes you wonder why they changed the chassis actually? The Flyslot also has a tray interior rather than a full detail one - so if you put a older Fly chassis under it you may see a bit of improvement.

 

DM

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Further to this T70 saga forgot about one I did the same as yours Rosco except this one is well modded,, all that's left of the original is the body chassis front wheels and tyres.

Right the mods are Avant guide, Ninco pick up,s, Slot it 29K motor, gears, MRRC axles , rear wheels, R1-34 RAOT, and inserts, MJK 2X10 rear tyres, and lowered slightly, tip open the holes at the back where the exhaust comes through , this allows for a bit of movement, only use the front 2 screws , I took the side mounts out., and added weight under both axles.

And you will find you have a flyer on your hands goes like a scalded cat handles very well indeed for a non pod in line chassis :)

T70Chassis_zps74326af4.jpg

T70Side_zps75e7eeb4.jpg

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Argh.... Peter - gread minds....I've just committed a princely $70 AUD to this model... add to that the $67 ebay price and I could have had the most expensive/high performance model of all time... sadly, this will only be what Flyslot "should" have done to make an inroad on the marketplace..... probably, in terms of their investment of perhaps a further (trade price) $20 per unit...... alas - they will most likely suffer the consequences....

 

Ok folk - moving right along - and I do very much hope members, particularly the newer ones - will watch as we work through what I have thus far learned through the forum to "tune" a model..... this one, being of particularly poor running ability - may offer those who have the "lame duck" chance to bring it to life....

 

Today, and I must admit to a stern degree of stubborn-ness here, I invested a further $70 AUD to this model.... insane, maybe - but determined, definitely....

 

We have on order - and shipped tomorrow - two new hardened steel axles, four 3/32" bronze bushes, four 4203 MJK urethane tyres, two 9 tooth Slot-It 2mm pinions, a 27th brass insert/nylon spur crown gear, the lowest of the Slot-It S can motors and two ultra lightweight 15 x 8.2 mm alloy wheels.

 

The project is now in progress.

 

Today I reamed out the four chassis/body screw holes to afford "float" between the body and chassis.

I then ground away the periphery of the chassis - to afford clearance from the chassis to body... this is very important - the body "must" float on the chassis.... tighten it down, and you strangle the model... it must be able to fly free like a bird....

 

Further, to get this chassis float - I went in the opposite direction to Peter G and decided to sever the rear exhaust frame from the chassis - trimmed it and glued it to the body with C/A.

 

I ran the underside of the chassis over a perfectly flat steel plate with 360 w/dry grit paper between to flatten any imperfections in the chassis base.

 

I then used the very same steel plate to set the chassis flat - using a multitude of magnets (all removed from models - as I do not run magnets (no discussion entered into).

 

The pix below give a pretty much self explanatory description of why this is so important - I firmly believe you cannot possibly set a commercial plastic chassis up without first ensuring that all four axle mounts and the motor are in the same relative plane...

 

So - the first pic shows how I have employed the steel plate as a sound base to bring down/up the chassis - the magnets are non-effected by anything remote.. and their residual attraction to the steel plate will ensure the plastic chassis will "re-set" itself to a flat and workable series of common levels.... this, dear people - is the great advantage of building your own piano wire chassis - you are entirely in control of the relative assignments of the principle parts.... axles, motor and guide ......

 

pic.... you will note, that the magnets are positioned nearest the most critical parts of any chassis...

 

T70001mail_zps4836b13f.jpg

 

In the next pic - you can see how the magnets have "pulled down" the plastic chassis to the steel base plate... all the working surfaces are now fully based on the plate... so, we have the best possible plane to work from...

 

I might further add here - that before adding magnets - this poor little thing had one front "leg" up in the air (front right) and one propping the back up - rear left... the chassis was both twisted and bent... with a huge boat shaped dip from front to rear...

 

T70002mail_zps00cdff3c.jpg

 

What we now need to do is to get this to "stay" ... and how we do this, is to dunk it overnight in boiling water....

 

I use a Pyrex (don't know if I need to use the "TM" logo here) rectangular dish.

 

I bring the temperature of the plate and chassis up in three stages.. a pre-warm, a further warm-up in about 10 minutes and a final "bath".

 

(P.s edit, whatever.... don't pour the boiling water directly over any part of the chassis - it will distort it... I made that mistake once..... just flood the boiling water in on all four sides of the plate.... not directly).

 

I use a wooden chopping block over the dish to retain heat - and wrap the entire lot with a folded bath towel - below, over the top and along each side of the dish - to retain heat. We really need to let this cool out extremely slowly..... too fast, and you're more likely to cause more problems than the manufacturer did when releasing the casting from the mold..... that's when they "buckle" up...... hot plastic reacts very acutely to sudden temperature drops... use a lighter on something and watch what happens when you take away the heat.....it "curls"... grrrrr - mass production, and little concern for the end result......

 

In this method (as it was explained to me from within one of the links from a Slot-It thread in this forum) - the heat of the water relaxes the initial molding process from the factory - but, more importantly - the slow cooling down process over a long period of time ensures that a new "memory" within the plastic ensures it will naturally flex back to its new state.... you can literally re-program plastic... to almost any form you desire - within reason... but, it must be cooled out slowly.....

 

We'll take another look at this tomorrow - hopefully, I'll have pix up to show the chassis from side-on without magnets... and sitting very flat on the steel plate.

 

From then, we work through adding the axles... and, there may just be some "tweaking" of alignment here... both in the vertical and horizontal plane.... I'll concentrate on the rear axle first... once it is set - we will then move to positioning the front one - equidistant on both sides from the rear - and in the same parallel and horizontal plane... then comes the guide mount.

 

I'm ever so keen to get the motor, pinon and crown set.. as this might also involve re-positioning one of the rear axle bushes.. and, of course - subsequently the front axle ones....

 

So folk, if I can't get this little sweetie to run better than Flyslot presented it - I might as well go learn to fly a kite.....

 

frats,

Rosco

Edited by rosco01

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Ok folk,

left it in the bath for a day longer than usual.... only because I haven't had time to attend to it... until now.

 

The base plate of steel was covered in more fine rust than after all previous models were treated.... the amazing patterns around where the magnets were placed always amazes me.

 

As you can see below, the chassis now sits flat on the plate without magnets holding it down.

I was very concerned about the dip in the left side - I expect this has been caused by the badly bowed chassis being brought into a flat plane.

I was also concerned about any distortion between the axle mounts - but after measuring the spacings front to back and diagonally both ways - it is all square... axle spacing is 80 mm and diagonally 87 mm

 

pix....

 

T70chassis003_zps3fa14371.jpg

 

T70chassis004_zpsd939129d.jpg

 

T70chassis005_zpsdc62ba3e.jpg

 

T70chassis006_zps99950fa8.jpg

 

T70chassis007_zpsea3e6a12.jpg

 

The running gear upgrade parts arrived safely this morning - thanks to an express service from Robert at A/R.

 

I am currently waiting for glue to dry on the wheels and tyres....

 

I won't get any more done to this model for a couple of weeks....we will be missing in action again away with the caravan club....

 

See y'all when I get back...

 

frats,

Rosco

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I like what you are doing there, Ross.

I just bought a shelf queen of the same Lola and the rear axle has a bow in it (paid $59 on ebay) is inline setup

 

My other Lola is a sidewinder and goes so much better

 

I will be making brass chassis for these as I want peak performance all the same they are nice looking cars

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Ok folk,

one more post - and this is going to be one which readers are not going to be happy about - particularly, the Flyslot Lola T70 owners....

 

I can be a determined brute of a pig sometimes, and I pay heavily for my stubborness... this Lola being a brilliant example..

 

I "should" have just ditched the chassis and built one or hacked a Slot-It chassis up and drilled four mounting holes.... really, it is that bad!

 

I set out this morning, on a day when I really had much more pressing things to get done.... only to find myself spending all of it up until dinner tonight in a determined rage to force this blasted chassis to conform..... really, really bad - folk - read the above line.

 

I took the chassis from the plate after straightening it - and was very pleased with the remedy of a twisted and bowed plastic "base"... not a chassis.

 

I then began to assemble the newly attained Slot-It running gear... all $70 of it.

 

The bushes were the first to go in - and yes, they slopped.... so, job #1 was to set them in position.

I slipped a Slot It axle through and then fitted the new Slot It motor.

I had measured it exactly in comparison with the whatever knows what was fitted by Flyslot... and they are exactly the same in size... all the fittings, screw holes and even length of armature were identical... but this new motor had significantly more "magnet"... hence what people have posted about the poor braking power of the Flyslot motor.....

 

I pressed a new Slot-It 9 tooth brass pinion onto the motor shaft.. and then prised the mounting faces apart to fit the motor..... snap! the circular strap broke without very much force... so, blow 1 - we now have a broken strap to fix....

 

the motor went in easliy after that - and I bedded it firmly down into place.... I slipped the axle through the crown - to align the new brass bushes - and found the motor shaft not making the groove in the new Slot-It brass/nylon 27t crown.... by a long shot... nor did the pinion teeth mesh with the crown.... well, they did enough to make the motor turn - but it was way, way out......

 

I looked at it from the side - and noted that the motor shaft in its fitted position sat around 2 mm above the centre-line of the axle.... that's a 2 mm positive offset!

 

I decided to glue in the axle bushes first then set about rectifying the gear mesh...

I dropped some cyano down through the "V" slot atop the bushes then sprinkled it with baking soda to build up some collar.... that all worked fine.

Pulling out the axle and removing the crown - then re-fitting the axle had it spinning freely within.... and square to the centre-line of the chassis..

 

So, now we get to the next 6 hours.... the motor mount.

 

I re-fitted the original motor and noted exactly the same thing... a 2mm positive offset... I re-fitted the original crown and noted that it also "just" meshed with the very edge of the crown teeth... that brings me back to my original post about there being a lot of grinding when I first applied power....

 

I scribed some critical lines over all the parts which needed addressing and found that this chassis - if it is a generic one - will give anyone with it headaches until major surgery is undertaken..... or - read the one line up above re - Slot-It chassis....

 

I persevered, cutting and gouging, filing and grinding... all 1 1/2 hours of it to get the blasted motor down.... and to get the centre-line of the motor shaft in line with the rear axle - it's a drop of 2 mm....hence the reference of a positive 2 mm offset.

 

Ok - so now, believing that I'd now get somewhere - I re-fitted the motor, axle and crown - nope!... the end of the motor shaft does not go back far enough to run in the groove of the crown.... so, more slicing, grinding, cutting and filing... and we now have 2 mm of rearward motor shift as well.....

 

Starting to get the picture that this chassis is a hospital case?... if not, you should be.

 

What I have now, is a 1mm gap on both sides of the motor (wait until you have to gouge out the perfectly formed and body-line molded plastic engine frame... pity it wasn't in the right place!

 

We also have a 2mm gap at the front of the motor to the motor mount... so, in goes a hand-made brass shim... and two holes were drilled through it and the plastic motor mount for two brass motor screws and washers to be fitted to hold the motor...

 

I've now got a motor in great mesh with the crown.. and free as a bird... no binding - axle runs freely.... and the motor is now located with its underside in line with the bottom of the crown..... that's how far down the blasted thing had to be moved!

 

I fit the screws and washers and fix the broken strap around the other end with cyano and baking soda... then add a bit more here and there to prevent the rear of the motor coming up from the new flat bottom base I'd created... all secure - and working like blasted well Flyslot should have set it up to start with.

 

I fit it all back on the metal plate - and guess what? - it is now bowed again.... the pressure on each end of the motor in the chassis - had deflected the two sides beside the motor.... so, out it comes again.... and I trim more from the end of the mount... re-fit it, test it for straight - and folk, now we have a good fitting motor - in line with the rear axle - pinion and crown mesh very smoothly AND the chassis is again straight....

 

That was part 1....

 

Part 2.... front axle - what a joke - the original flopped, dropped and wobbled within the two open frames which contained them (not held them)..

 

I fitted some spare wheels and tyres to the rear axle - and then set a new axle and pair of wheels through the front - to get a ride height of where I wanted to secure the front axle....marked the heights - then set about using a reamer, drills and files to make way for two Slot-It bronze spherical bushes..

Eventually, I had the bushes popping in and being able to be gymballed around in the new holes... I fitted the axle and wheels again and set it down on the plate to check that all four wheels were equally on the "deck"... one was a little high - so that side got another touch with a file... then, it all sat pefectly.. chassis square - axles equi-distant on both sides and also parallel in height with each other....

 

I used cyano and baking soda again to build up bush retainers - and now have the front axle spinning freely...

 

So folk - you are going to ask.... "if I'd simply bought a Slot-It chassis - I would have all this - at a fraction of the cost and the only work to have been required was to simply fit the sperical bushes to the front axle and four M2 grub screws to set the adjustable height....

 

But for you poor folk with this Flyslot chassis - and who wish to follow my pains (why on heck would you?) - please copy the above and get ready for a very, very frustrating and annoying day of labour......

 

A couple of pix of the end result.... you can clearly see in them the work required... and, you will also see how far down and back that blasted motor has to be moved to get anywhere near a sound mesh at the rear.....

 

 

Disregard the wheels and tyres.... they are spares from a GT 40... a "Slot It' one...... not the plastic rubbish and bendable axle which came with "this" model....

 

pix..

 

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Why would you..... just answer me this .... why - Slot-It HRS adjustable chassis - wheels, tyres, guide......$50'ish at AR....

 

frats.

Rosco

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I would have raised the rear bushes to align the axle and motor shafts, and fitted spacers on the axle to stop any sideways movement.

This would hsve saved all te time moving the motor and reduced all that ground clearance.

At the front I drill two hoes under the axle for some 2mm grub screws and adjust the axle up to the top of the axle holders, just allowing a little movement, then sand the tyres to suit the new axle height.


Phil

 

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Yes Phil,

I had considered re-positioning the rear axle bushes - but when the need to more the motor back arose - it threw my attention from the rear axle back to the motor....

If I'd lifted the bushes, I'd have still needed to move the motor back.. although I did not enjoy gouging through all that plastic - logic seemed to suggest a one location mod... I simply didn't realise on the outset what that ended up involving....

 

As mentioned - Slot-It chassis and throw this one into the spare parts box...

 

I had much success using those spherical front axle bushes in the GT40's.... they work a treat in Slot-It chassis' - for which they are designed..

 

Originally, I was going to fit some MB slot bushes.. but there wasn't enough meat on the axle posts to cut that far into them... the spherical ones just popped up in a timely sift though my parts bins..... a simple ream out and file and they popped in beautifully... the cyano and baking soda was added to ensure they did not get "cocked"...

 

I may yet decided to run a hollow front axle and fit eyelets and thrust washers... resulting in independent front wheel rotation... it works beautifully on the Cooper piano wire/brass chassis'...

 

This has indeed been a tunnel-vision project... I won't do it again.... I have been telling people, that unless Flyslot pick up their act - this will be the second Flyslot model I will ever own.... the first AND the last....

 

Body is fantastic.. don't get me wrong.... but this particular chassis.... it's a kiddies toy and really needs to be pushed along the floor....

 

Thanks for your input, Phil..... yes - hindsight.... probably even if I'd decided to go ahead with this chassis - it should have been chopped out and a "pod" fitted... now, there's a thought..... pity I didn't strike on it earlier.... just got pig-headed and stubborn, I'm afraid....

 

frats,

Rosco

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