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rosco01

My First Builds

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Very clean work.....Love the simple design that is so well executed.


John Warren

Slotcars are my preferred reality

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Thanks DM and Munter.

 

DM - no, the motor is entirely held by the rear bracket. It is therefore critical that the mount face of that rear bracket is both square and parallel to the chassis.... as you have read, Chassis #2 had to be pulled apart and the bracket faces and side supports brought into alignment...

I believe this to be the "foundation" of a chassis... get that rear bracket absolutely square and the rest of the build simply is held in place using the tile...

 

Please, let me know when you start - I can't spruke that I'll be of much assistance in your build - but I offer you everything I am capable from a novice level .... and might just be able to answer any obscure questions most members accept as "given"...

 

With these first two initial builds, I don't believe I've quite got anything substantiated yet - but I'm becoming more comfortable with the daunting task of bending some piano wire and adding a couple of brackets to make a chassis...more and more of it is making sense - most of it was simply undertaken as superfluent... until things didn't work.... and the gravity of such exact tolerances became known... again - the rear bracket... spend a day on it.... and make absolutely certain that it is in the best possible state before assembling additions...

 

DM - don't build just one of these - build two...... I learned this from my scratch-building locomotive era... you learn so much more when you have two in construction.... and, end of the day - you get two models..... the difference in time construction is more than halved from that of starting a subsequent build after completion of the first..

 

And, if you take a peek at the Tasman Proxy series... and look at the specs of some of the models you can enter.... many have the 91" wheelbase.. so, two identical chassis' can be utilised for two different models..... pray mercy on me, I'm building two Coopers - then will follow that up with two Brabhams... all on the same chassis...so, why the heck didn't I build four at once..... I have all parts necessary...arghhh....hindsight - wonderful recourse..

 

I've hit these builds like a bull at a gate.. many here who build, do so a bit at a time... I didn't, and spent weeks in continuem applying myself and energy to achieve. Be warned, this is both addictive and obsessive - the "outside" world simply melts into oblivion...

 

Without the close and very supportive assistance from many within this forum and another - I would certainly be struggling.

Special thanks to Munter and Kalfelp, who have been guiding lights...

 

Now, DM - don't sell yourself short..... once you get that tile (thanks Ember), and procure some brackets.... the obsession begins... and, I hope never leaves you.

 

I'm a long, long way from completing these first two models... and firmly believe that I now possess a greater understanding of what we simply accept as a body and a chassis.... the engineering afforded from even the simplest of commercial manufacturers is now very much more appreciated than ever before.

 

So, to avoid going into any further diatribe... I would seriously suggest, for the outlay of perhaps a modest budget to begin with - that any forum member with the passion to actually "create" a model, should be strongly encouraged to "give it a burl"....yes, you'll make heaps and heaps of mistakes.. and take many backwards steps... but "you" will create something which will reward you tenfold for your efforts....

 

I would further suggest that consideration be given to undertaking the Proxy series which prompted me to task myself with these builds... I continue to believe that the fruits of my labors will be rewarded - be they at participation level....

 

frats,

Rosco

Edited by rosco01

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Yesterday's effort.... not great, but hopefully a satisfying result - with added strength to a potential achilles heel...

 

I want to fit ferules under the intake air cover and decided the best approach was to slice away at the "meat" until four of these little trumpets could be inserted.

 

One slice too far and I had the body hinging on the opposite side... which, as the body was cast - is also on a very thin join line.

 

I sliced through that as well and now have the "lifting" section of the rear as a separate piece.

I was then able to get right into the intake cover and grind out enough to fit the cut-down ferules...

 

My plan is now to use some "milliput" epoxy putty then run a complete length of fibre-glass tape across the two halves - using c/a as a catalyst.

I am considering adding further strength to the assembly by drilling and fitting a bent-to-shape length of brass rod - c/a'd into the "meat" of the body.

 

Both bodies (all four parts) have now been given their first coat of primer... and the little voids can be seen quite easily.... I'll let this cure out for a bit now and then apply putty.

 

Another little project is currently drawing my attention away from these little cars at present.. but not for much longer.

 

frats,

Rosco

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Ross try and keep the bodies as light as possible, your target weight for the completed car should be around 60 grams or a little less.

Usual thing is to drill a hole in the body for each ferrule.

If you don't have and filler you can simply mix some talc and super glue to fill any small imperfections.


Phil

 

Hobart Miniature Car Club

 

Tassie Resins

 

Email

 

 

 

 

 

 

Logos%2016_17.small_zpswkcwjf0q.jpg

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Thanks Phil - yes, I do appreciate and understand that the model needs to be kept light.... the amount of Milliput putty I will use is basically intended to make the bond and fill any gap between the two mating surfaces... the cyano and fibreglass tape will weigh next to nothing... it will be a strip only the width of the air box cover, but run the full internal span around the upper/lower body parts to bind them.

The brass rods will be each probably be 5 mm long - just to further peg the upper and lower sections.

I believe this will effect a very lightweight, yet strong bond.... certainly stronger than the original casting which, as I expect - would be of little concern in operation.

 

I removed quite a bit of casting "meat" from inside the air cover - I doubt very much that the amount of weight I am going to employ re-attaching will result in any significant increase.... I had weighed the bodies prior to working on them after removal of the cut-out apertures plus removal of this air cover "meat" - 9.29g for one and 7.72g for the other.

 

I have just now weighed chassis #2 in running trim with motor, and guide assembly - minus the wheel inserts = 42.61g.

 

Obviously, this is yet to include screen, mirrors suspension and paint.... I am hopeful that I should be able to come in with an all-up-weight of the 60g mark.. or perhaps one or two more/less....

 

It will be interesting to learn what my re-assembled weights are - including the four abbreviated ram tubes plus the intended small piece of styrene card I now believe I'll use to space and mount them.

 

I do acknowledge your suggestion to drill into the body and mount them in that fashion - but there is no access to perform such work from under the cover - my intention is to drill and fit them into a short length of styrene card - then mount this to the inside of the body where I have carved/scraped/cajoled away the casting.

This piece of card will be painted matt black - only the four shiny aluminium intakes should be viewable.. I'm hoping for a pleasing result.... albeit that they must be "looked for"... not being readily visible from a "running" perspective....

 

Thanks again, Phil - much appreciated.. no work today, medicals and lots of preparatory work to afford us a break away for a week or more..

 

frats,

Rosco

Edited by rosco01

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Wow! you certainly get the meat out of your bodies... and, I thought I'd done well with removing superficial lumps of casts....

There is more meat in the long nose section of one than the other... I will reinforce the lighter one as I can see through it... probably a particular spot to snap... any nose-on prang at high speed will undoubtedly cause grief here.. so, a strip of fibre glass mat and come cyano..... and balance that little bit off with a bit more gouge somewhere else.... you do very well to get down to those weights, Phil...

 

frats,

Rosco

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Of course, you also have the benefit of being able to add a bit more meat to further castings where fracture lines occur in racing.... the rest of us simply have to grind away and re-pack.when we go too far.... or break bits during assembly (sic).

 

frats,

Rosco

Edited by rosco01

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Ok folk,

we're back from Yack - the two bodies have been sitting in their first coat of Tamiya primer for over a month now.... and work is about to resume.

The little side-track with the FlySlot Lola put things well and truly on the back burner - plus this trip away..... and the subsequent clean up of van and tug...

 

I will now fill the voids in the bodies - it is hard to find a retailer who stocks "light putty", so have reverted to the Tamiya grey putty for these small imperfections.

 

The next step will be fabricating some styrene card and mounting the four intake trumpets.

Having split the bodies along the proto-type rear cover lines, and trimming enough meat from the underside of the intake cover - I should be able to effect a reasonable adornment to these great little models.

 

It is my intention to also create the rear cover support rail behind the driver's seat from brass rod - along with the roll bar.

 

I have not started work on the suspension detail as yet - still looking for more pix.

 

At this stage, it would appear likely that I will model Ian Burgess' white/blue stripe model for one, and a factory green/white striped model for the other.

 

More as I return to the workbench.

 

frats,

Rosco

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Ross,

 

We have had a couple of withdrawals from the Tasman Series so we hve a spot available for you if you want it.

 

Let me know and I will update the list of entries.


Alan Stubbings

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I had to eBay mine Ross, but I bought 2 tubes at the time. I can send you my spare if you'd like.


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

_AM_sig_zps00cdfd1a.jpg

 

Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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Alan, yes please - I'd love make an entry into proxy racing.... no idea what number - but count me in, and I'll find a number as I go through.

Just remind me please - I have until early April to finish the model.... I should be fine with that.

 

Ember, that is a very kind and generous offer - I'll try and ebay some for myself first - if I don't do any good, I'll send a pigeon around for you to load up... thank you.

 

No work yet, folk - firing at Puffing Billy yesterday - and clean-up of van and tug continues today.... took a peek at both bodies last night, and very keen now to get back on with building.

 

frats,

Rosco

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Ok folk - now back on the workbench.

I can't post pix at present due to my data allowance being depleted by repeated failed attempts for Windows to automatically update.. the ISP connection here keeps tripping and Windows seems to want to start fresh each time it re-connects... all this happened whilst I was not at the machine on 3 Feb (above post) .. It re-sets on 20 Feb - so pix to accompany this short update will follow then..

 

As mentioned above, I now have an entrant's position in this year's Tasman proxy series... resultant in my now dropping the "Parallel" build of two Coopers and focusing on one for now - to reach the April deadline.

 

I decided to start on the suspension in lieu of preparing the body due to my Tamiya light putty being somewhere in transit from Honkers..

 

I made a number of decisions on how to approach the suspension detail and tried a couple of different approaches - my work with piano wire was simply not good - and I reverted to a trusted old friend in brass rod... piano wire might be great for the longer suspension arms - but not very friendly when short wishbones like the T53 are employed.

 

The first attempt at making up return loop suspension arms did not appeal - and I opted to try a new concept which has been kicking itself against the walls of my mind for some time... plenty of empty space up there, but I don't believed it damaged anything - well, further to existing...

 

I marked up some thin brass plates and marked them out for drilling.

 

The concept was to create some brake backing plates - although they do not appear to exist on the proto-type.

 

I drilled out the centre for an interference fit over the front axle tube and pressed them on for a trial - I was pretty happy with the result, so removed them and measured out and drilled 1mm holes for the four wishbone mounts and two 0.8mm holes for both the steering arm and knuckle.

 

I then used a set of pointed dividers and scribed an 11mm circle around the centre point...

 

I cut the plates from the brass strip and ground them to shape.

 

I re-fitted the plates to the axle tube and very carefully aligned them square and vertical to the axle before soldering both into position.

 

The rest was pretty easy, but a bit time-consuming - making up the four wishbones from 1mm brass rod and fitted them.

 

I filed little notches into the front bracket edges and soldered the wishbones both at the backing plates and onto the bracket...

Once in position, I cut the excess protruding through the backing plates and filed/sanded the wheel-side of the plates flush.

 

The steering rod and knuckle were made from 0.8mm brass rod.

My steering connecting rod travels the full span of the front, being bent back slightly from the front bracket towards the backing plate.

 

I made up a short piece of 0.8mm brass rod with a 90 degree bend in it and fitted that from the top hole down to the steering arm - to suggest a knuckle on the backing plate..

 

After some six hours - I'm pretty happy with the result... I spent some time with the scalpel scraping off excess silver-solder and will attack the area again with some wet and dry to bring it to a paint-able state.

 

I am undecided if I will attempt some form of spring/damper on the front - if I do, it will only be a mimic attempt as there is precious little room to fit anything from the axle tube upwards to the body... maybe just a few coils over a short piece of thin brass tube.... to be addressed.

 

Although there is probably precious little added weight to the overall chassis with these wishbones and backing plates - I could now cut away the axle tube between the backing plates and centre bracket - the assembly is very rigid... this is one advantage of drilling holes and making mechanical joints which simple soldering does not afford.

 

The original "orginial" plan was to fit spherical bushes into the backing plates... and ditch the axle tube concept altogether... I may look at this in a future model.. but not for now - I'm happy with the result and both these little Coopers will be fitted out equally.

 

I start work on the rear suspension today - along similar lines but, the wishbones are very differently positioned and there is room for a decent attempt at creating a spring/damper at the front of the axle...

 

I can also include a torsion bar link and rod - so, I expect by late tonight - I should have both suspensions (minus spring/damper) almost at a paint-able level...

 

I am hoping my efforts will suffice for entry to the series.... as mentioned, some of the detail is a bit wayward of the prototype - but it should replicate a close substitute... I'll check with Stubbo when I can send him some pix.

 

 

 

Sorry for no pix... blame Telstra and Windows.... I have "un-checked" automatic updates.... grrrrrr!

 

frats,

Rosco

Edited by rosco01

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Thanks Phil,

I'll give Telstra a call and try this...... won't be today - I'm just a little put out by them around here - we struggle to get one bar of signal... often the connection drops out... and this is in the eastern suburbs of Melbourne.

We've dragged our van all around Oz - and even in some of the remotest parts where we've free camped for a few days - we've had service almost all the time... (almost) - Yack was one exception, the far north west coast of WA was another (Barn HIll and 80 Mile Beach).

Here, in thriving suburbia - we struggle.....

I took this to Telstra some months back and got this reply- "we are only required to have 96% coverage - we have 97%. We know about the black spot in your area and don't have to do anything about it!".... Phil, think you can appreciate - if there was another carrier with their own antenna/service - I'd be posting pix now.... grrrrr

 

Work has started on the rear suspension - much like the front one..... I'm taking a few progressive shots as I work through it....

 

Sorry folk - I do appreciate Phil was hoping I'd be able to get my data allowance back, but I'm not in the mood for another "we don't have to do anything" response .... one ponders if the PMG would have established an ever accommodating service..... not been a fan of Testra - even from the Telecom days... the big red vans with the gold PMG name were of a different time.... along with the Victorian Railways, MMTB, SEC, MMBW, Gas and Fuel.... and a plethora of other government authorities which absorbed a lot of what is now "unemployed" on welfare..... resultant of political parties on all sides of the fence(s) - rant over.

 

frats,

Rosco

Edited by rosco01

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Ok folk,

another huge day on the bench - but have a smile on my face at the end of it.....well, it's tomorrow now... but I've just shut down shop until later today...

 

Rear suspension brake backing plates are on - along with the final 8 wishbones.

I set the plates up using some aluminium tube fitted over the axle as it passed through the bushes in the rear bracket..

I coated the axle, the outside of the aluminium tube and the inside of the backing plate holes.... so that solder would not set it all in a permanent joint.

 

It took ages to set the first wishbone in place on each side - that probably accounted for nearly two hours of my day.

Once that first one went in, I was able to then jigger the plate around to get it vertical and square to the rear bracket.

 

As with the front assembly, the rear is very rigid and the axle passes freely through the bushes - even with brass tubing fitted through the backing plates.. so, I have managed to effect a square installation of the backing plates - and when the dummy tubes are removed, there is 1mm clearance all around the axle as it passes though the plates....

 

I spent all night on the first spring assembly.. and have just completed the main working parts - minus spring.

 

On these little Coopers, there is a torsion bar link which runs from a thick transverse bar across the top of the chassis - this then makes a 90 degree turn via a link and then to a vertical connecting rod down to the lower wishbone.

The damper/spring is fitted the this link on a rod connecting the lower wishbones...

I was able to replicate the entire torsion assembly using some 1.2 mm brass rod.

 

My damper arrangement consists of a short length of brass tube with two further small sections of progressive larger tube cut into rings.

These were soldered onto the lower upright of the damper.

For the thin section, I used some piano wire and again built up a series of brass tubing in rings to form a spring retainer.

 

As mentioned, I don't have the springs yet.... but the assembly will go in very easily now that the torsion bar assembly and links have been made - the lower section running between the lower wishbones will secure the bottom of the damper - I intend just to bend over the thinner upper section and solder into a nick in the top of the rear bracket.....

 

I guess a few pix would reveal this long winded description... when I can get some data allowance - I'll fire up a series of shots as I took them over the past two days.

 

So, my plans for fitting suspension are now dealt with.. my attention will shortly return to the body and those intake trumpets...

 

From what I have seen in T53 Coopers - I might have taken this on for almost no benefit.. as, I don't believe much can be seen of them.

 

In latter years, I have seen pix where a relief has been made in the cover - and half the trumpets can be seen.... so far, I can't find any period pix to support my cutting into the cover... but........ I'd love to do it...

 

frats,

Rosco

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Ok, the troll at Telstra seems not to be watching my data usage at present... so, I have loaded up some pix into PB ...

These are from day one on the front suspension.

Please disregard the crude and vial appearance of the angled shot - those scalpel scrapes have been cleaned up.

 

You will also note that I have offset one of the chassis rails - can't recall doing it, but I can assure you the chassis runs in a straight line on its wheels...and I do not see reason to tempt fate by re-locating it.

 

The angle on which the motor appears to tilt... I had to loosen off the mount screws when fiddling around looking at how to do the rear...

 

I also now see that the front right steering rod is mounted slightly forward on the bracket and that the upper front left wishbone is also mounted slightly forward..

 

It amazes me what can be seen in close-up photography - pity it doesn't show up as easily under my bench work-light.

 

These will drive me crazy - and I'm very tempted to correct them, but - when the body is mounted - I don't believe they will detract from the model's appearance... I'll do better after I finish this one and return to chassis #2.

 

Work continues today - still looking for suitable springs.. might have to "rat' some r/c gear to find something suitable.

I do understand that the spring in disposable cigarette lighters has been suggested... the only smoker in my entire family doesn't go through enough of them... might have to simply purchase one and commit it to the project..

 

 

May get some more pix from the camera and upload them to PB today... lots on, sometimes forget that I have "other" obligations in life....

 

Pix..

 

Cpr%20frt%20susp%20001%20mail_zpsueywesgn.jpg

 

Cpr%20frt%20susp%20002%20mail_zpsffeayibb.jpg

 

Cpr%20frt%20susp%20005%20mail_zpsws5w1sy4.jpg

 

Cpr%20frt%20susp%20004_zpsr1cah6fk.jpg

 

frats,

Rosco

Edited by rosco01

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Wow. I think I shall go and bury my naive and clunky Lotus in the back yard now.

 

As far as springs go, disassembling a disposable lighter may produce something of use. Brands vary a little in their make-up but Bic ones in particular have a couple of long and useful springs.


Computers. They'll never catch on.

 

_AM_sig_zps00cdfd1a.jpg

 

Tiny Tyers Targa - The build saga continues - Aging wood - A recipe for staining wood - Don't take a fence - Step by step paling fence - An old shed for my new cars - Wooden garage under construction

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Ok - making hay whilst the sun shines (not).

 

These two are the only ones I took so far of the rear suspension... will take a few more today and add them... if the Telstra troll is not awake...

 

These ones are how I marked out the brass strip in preparation for the backing plates.

 

 

Cpr%20rear%20susp%20001_zps5q6ztfac.jpg

 

And finally, the plate drilled and cut... including the errant mark by my home made needle punch (short piece of 1.6mm Stainless TIG wire).

I really must get those close-up filters, Ember....

 

Cpr%20rear%20susp%20002_zpskscgscrx.jpg

 

frats,

Rosco

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Thanks Ember, your Lotus will be way beyond my ability - it was your suspension which actually amazed me... I did try the piano wire to follow suit - but my inept ability at bending it in such short lengths resulted in a return to a "known" friend.. I love working with brass - it bends, files and solders just so well - plus, with a little planning - assembly can be constructed with amazing rigidity.

 

I will chase a Bic lighter up this morning - I really want to see this rear suspension completed.... it's been bugging me for a very long while - simply didn't know how I was going to attack the damper/spring unit...... a few hours last night until midnight resulted in some more smiles....

Because the space between the lower wishbone and chassis opening on this little car is so short - my damper length will be compromised.. but, I should get both halves visible and the spring should sit nicely around both - there is going to be precious little clearance from the spring to the rear axle... I am still working on this.. much thought CPU is churning away on it..

 

Hope to have some more pix up tonight.. about to leave camp Rosco for a few hours to visit a nursing home...

Back later..

 

frats,

Rosco

Edited by rosco01

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Ok just a couple.

Ember - yes, the small, thick spring in the Bic lighter is perfect for my needs..... it's the one under the rear gas valve.

 

I may be able to use a small piece of the centre one under the flint for my front spring... it can lose itself "somewhere" under the upper wishbone.

I'll most likely just fit a piece of brass rod down the centre of that one for effect...

 

The larger one will be cut in two for both my rear spring/dampers.

 

I have included my first attempt at a damper - think I mentioned it above.

The spring retainers are made up of three rings of progressively larger tubing - all soldered together as one on both the base and also the rod... pic

 

Cpr%20rear%20susp%20004%20mail_zpsmrr9ihsk.jpg

 

Ok - this was how I left it at midnight last night... nothing done today yet...

 

Cpr%20rear%20susp%20003%20mail_zpsxo3qnge5.jpg

 

I'm about to start trimming the wishbone ends and cleaning the joints up.

I fitted the body over the entire chassis and it sits very nicely... I'm now keen to get it back together with wheels fitted... the body will take probably all of the next few weeks to get up to a paint-able stage... I can't do anything until that blasted light putty arrives.... so, for now - I can do just a bit more on the chassis...

 

I haven't included any pix of the rear torsion bar assembly yet - I'm working on another plan to change out the link part of it to a flat plate piece - and just leave the thicker rod as the cross-piece and main damper mount...

I am contemplating using a thinner vertical rod between the link and the lower connecting/mount rod.

 

Maybe some more later tonight.

 

frats,

Rosco

Edited by rosco01

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